since I last posted the video, Ford updated their repair for this. To my knowledge, the engine block was not cleaned properly after being machined at the factory and metal debris is floating throughout the cooling system causing all sorts of havoc. the water pump being the root source of problems. The water pump gets replaced and the entire cooling system, needs to get back flushed.

@classkeyproductions8082 yup red the report and they did a complete flush! Hopefully this will be good for a long time.

have they not done anything at all? if it is a 10 speed trans, there is a tsb for these that they absolutely can and should do

these 10 speeds have some odd leak testing. some of the ports share passages and you will generally hear shared air leaking between c, d, and f clutches. at this point, i have torn down and rebuilt so many of these that the air leak testing is pointless. it does not tell you weather something is leaking or not because of these shared passage ways/ports. you an hear the air leaking out of the line pressure port when you test these clutches. if you are tearing down, chances are your cdf drum is shot and fluid is getting by when it shouldn't. as far as going back together, trust that you did it correctly and do not count on the air leak test to verify your repair. it lies to you and makes you second guess all your work. that is my opinion from multiple rebuild experiences and testing what works/doesnt work. i hope this helps.

Thank you for this. I just rebuilt my 10r80, and couldn't get a positive leak test on c,d, or f. I threw it back together anyway, because I knew I followed everything to a 'T'. With everything back together though, I am getting a P0762 - Solenoid C Stuck On code. Thinking it may be the new valve body I got from Ford, but started to worry about my failed leak test. Have you had many failed valve bodies out of the box?

@@trackcarobsessionI have absolutely had bad valve bodies out of the box. I agree, i would start with this first, path pf least resistance and go from there. seeing how it is a mechanical fault and not electrical, I would suspect a stuck valve or worst case scenario, that C clutch pack. C clutch has that super thin seal than could have got pinched or, even more so, I have had the snap ring dislodge causing the 'always applied' condition, something that could set that code. I had the snap ring dislodge on 2 separate occasions, once on C clutch and once on D clutch. but I would 100 percent start with that valve body.

Is there something wrong i made sure no gaskets where pinched / ripped when installing and did everything by the book

@@Ggg-ef6vb there is some air you can here in some of the ports with cdf because they are shared. per ford wsm, some air leaking is normal. you will probably hear air from the d port when testing f for example. but, if you hear the clunk, you are good. if you hear straight air, there may be a leak. typically in those c and d pistons and seals. e should have a clunk typically too. did you taker it out on a road test yet and still have problems? if you did everything by the book, you need to trust it was done right and road test it. as long as everything lines up and goes back together, that is the only way to verify a good repair. i tested these ports after a rebuild before and i heard air leaking as well, definitely did everything correctly. i put it all back together and road tested and was totally fine. if you road test and still have issues, then unfortunately you know where to look. i also had one time where i took it out on a road test and had a harsh 4th gear shift and took it all back out and found my d piston snap ring was not fully seated. double checked everything, made sure my snap rings and seals were all good, reassembled and road tested, all good. hope this helps.

Yes so I did put everything together and road tested it everything runs great !!! I found a video of a guy explaining that CDF clutch will leak air cuz of all the Teflon seals and to properly check it is to wet check it I did not do that as I trusted that I did everything correctly and sure enough the transmission runs great !!! Thank you for your help!

thats good to know, I bought that tool a few years ago, im glad someone figured the thickness out. either way, they still work great. thanks for the info tho!

Are you looking at a bronco or a bronco sport?

Bronco badlands

@@Monmon182blink I mean, this video is for a bronco sport. I dont see too many problems with full size broncos personally in my dealership, not saying there are not any tho. I would test drive one and see how you like it and go for it if thats what you want. Every car is going to have its issues.

i dont see how that is not covered under warranty, you shouldn't have to pay anything

@@classkeyproductions8082 inspector came down and said because it's a "pre-existing issue" they will not cover it. I'm planning on fighting them Monday morning.

so far, the style shown, yes.

no, the ford explorers have a totally different parking brake set up. depending on the year, they are twist in caliper style. hope this helps

@@classkeyproductions8082 yes, I was able to get the ones I needed at a local junkyard 👍

the phasers will only go on the cams one way. the colors on the links need to line up on the markings on the phasers and the crank sprocket. as long as they all line up you are good to go. i dont normally count the links because the chains are all marked. hope that helps and its not too late

i also have another video that shows the timing marks and how to double check it to make sure it is lined up correctly.

Did this fix your issue ?

@@Vtg1104 yessir. Haven’t had any issues since. Almost at 70k now

Same here

depending on your engine and if the concern relates or not. engine size, trans type, etc. there is a tsb for a noise like you are describing. tsb 22-2061 "Some 2020-2022 Escape vehicles equipped with an HF45 transmission may exhibit a rattle noise on cold start up only when the engine is running. This noise may be more prevalent in cold weather conditions, typically at or below 0°C (32°F). This may be due to the software in the secondary on-board diagnostic control module C (SOBDMC) and on some vehicles also from the flywheel damper assembly. To correct this condition, follow the Service Procedure steps to reprogram the SOBDMC and if necessary replace the flywheel damper assembly. "

if it were my own vehicle i would repl the chains and tensioners as well. just to be on the safe side, especially since your already in there, might as well. guides are normally still good. crank sprocket normally still good. the phaser bolts are torque to yield and need to be replaced if you didnt know that too. hope this helps

I feel you. My 2021 with 55k mi is at the dealer currently waiting for water pump #4. The last one was the updated version and it still failed.

that would be the tensioner setting. you can see the black guide moving when it clicks. they are dry, no oil in them.

My first gen ecoboost with 287k miles would beg to differ

Timing belt?

Timing chain dummy

​@kcoop99 man that's awesome. I bought a used 2011 with the 1st generation Ecoboost and right off the bat, I had to replace the timing and cam phasers. I still came out ahead because if the dealership would have done it, they would have wanted about 6k to 7k more for the truck than what I paid for.

typically the turbo rattle sounds more like a chain rattle. if the sound is heard from the front of the engine it is more timing related components. not too common tho on the 2.7L. turbo linkage rattle will be more heard on the back side of the engine and i believe you should be able to hear it when you snap the throttle too when the rpms start to come down you should hear it. the turbo linkage rattle will get worse and you will eventually hear it more often and longer. hope this helps

My 2020 has that noise usually when it has been running and restarted.

I am not 100% sure what you can and cant get away with replacing, I work at a dealership and I replace every seal and piston in the transmission when I tear them down. Ford has had a back order on their seal kit for the past few months. Note, when its all torn down, make sure you check your E clutch pack at the bottom of the trash can, I have found a lot of debris and junk gets caught in there. just be mindful and careful with the CDF clutch pack if you are disassembling it and checking your clutches and steels. the drum and its snap rings are all press fit and can be easily damaged. I hope some of this helps.

is it an electronic sound? possible to be normal? or is it something that has worsened over time? do you hear it while in drive at a stop and starting in second gear? can you hear it when manually shifting while driving? Is this in the mustang too? it sounds like the valve body simply applying pressure but its difficult to hear. I have heard other weird electronic noises in newer Fords that are unusual/not normal to hear, but Ford says they are normal.

I tested this on an f-150 with a 10 speed today and could hear the valve body shifting 2nd gear the same as the mustang video does only you cant hear it as much, not as loud. I believe it is a normal sound. at least what I can hear.

@@classkeyproductions8082 thank you. You are awesome! Have a wonderful day.

did you contact ford about the issue and that you had it in the shop already and that it was misdiagnosed while still under the power train warranty?

@@classkeyproductions8082 affirmative. I even sent them a copy of the dealer receipt from the visit that states "REASON FOR APPOINTMENT: CAM PHASER - PCM UPDATE"

im not too sure but its always a good idea to start at the valve body. and then the air test like i showed here. thats the best and easiest way to see if there is an internal fault or just the valve body acting up. every 10 speed trans i have touched from 2018-2020 has had a faulty CDF drum inside which causes a wide range of issues, most commonly the 3/4 and 3/5 harsh shift. i had one where first gear never wanted to shift and i had one or two where it would shift from 2nd to 7th and vice versa. makes no sense at all to me some times. however. the only issues i have seen with 2021 and 2022 10 speed transmissions so far has been valve body issues. WOT may cause other things to happen, i dont think i have ever tested or checked any of these 10 speeds at WOT to see if there is any change. fyi- ford is back ordered on new transmissions, best bet if there is an internal fault is to have it overhauled. the reman places are not doing a good job and the CDF drums are not being replaced so the reman transmissions are having the same issues. hope some of this helps

Glad I could help

yea somewhere they changed styles. I noticed the 3.5 ecoboosted explorers and flex suv's I have worked on seem to have different enclosed ones as well.

Once Ford figures out a design is good, they jack with it until it's not. I'm not joking, Ford does that crap. They took what was a good 5.4 and made it worse, same with some 4.6's... but the 5.4's were worse. Cam phasers are the dumbest idea Ford ever had, and because it made them lots of money every other idiot company followed suit. They say Ford leads the way... well they're right, they sure do... right down a money pit hole.

there is an updated VCT phaser part that increasesoil flow and stores the oil better.

@@classkeyproductions8082 i had my cam phasers replaced with the new phaser style about a month ago in my 2019 f150, however I still hear the chain noise during cold start up. I took it back to the dealership and they said that's the way the engine sound. Is this true? Does the startup noise go away after replacing the phasers?

@@Sean_Live i would have to hear the noise but the phaser rattle on start up literally lasts a few seconds at the most. if there is a noise present longer than that, may be something else. if your chain is stretched or tensioner is not working properly, they could be making noises. but the phaser replacement, to my knowledge and every repair i have made, will go away when replaced with the updated style. i will update my posts if something changes.

@@classkeyproductions8082 I was able to talk to the technician that installed my phasers and he assured me that he installed the new phaser style. He also explained that the noise i am hearing could be the waste gate noise in the turbo but mostly pronounced during cold start. If you have an email, I can send a video clip of the noise. That would help and thank you for reply to both my messages in each video.

[email protected]. also, i have a reply above that may help to discern if the phasers are the noise still. "hold the gas pedal down all the way to the floor and crank the engine over for a few seconds before starting the vehicle. holding the pedal down and cranking the engine over will allow the engine just to crank as long as you hold the gas pedal to the floor. this will help get the oil flowing before start up."

Ford shampoo degreaser- used to clean up the mating surface for the engine front cover/whatever uses RTV. pretty cool stuff and works great to clean. this video was just for fun. there really isnt any point in cleaning out those ports.

tools? after i get the pads and rotors off, I usually only use needle nose pliers and a pocket screw driver. not too sure if that helps any. i do have another video for removal and replacement process.

I see the tool you are referring to. Looks like he took an odd leftover piece of a mounting bracket and modified it into the tool he needed.

I have not personally done any 21 or 22 timing jobs yet unfortunately to give you any help I'm sorry. Inevitably soon though I will have a better idea if that would work or not. Until then, maybe in your best interest if you have to take it all apart to just do it right with the right parts.

If you buy the 2017 kit, you should still get the newest version of the cam phasers. The newest version came out January 2022, iirc. There is an updated part number that you can look up to make sure you're not getting the outdated part from the dealer.