Don’t discard the oil plate on the starter drive. It prevents oil splashing over into the starter and also leaking out of the driver adapter little drain.early shovel heads didn’t have the plate n Harley added it about 1980 and recommended that it be used on earlier shovels when working in that area.

Thank that worked for my chey

The bearing has definitely left the chat

Had cars that would REALLY fight me before! Gotta get creative sometimes

Great job 👍🏽

I think every 30k miles is good for this

I diden't see you put saftey wire on .

Good video

putting Lucas in the oil just ensures that it will never go into the engine. At least when you pour it from the white bottle you can see with your eyes that it goes in the engine. Now u mixed it with the oil and u will never know if it went in the engine or stayed in the oil jug and u threw it on the garbage

Have never had acold start problem. I'm asking about the tick I have and fuel b issues mainly mis fires in #1 and 5 cylinders

York volume sucks

I've got 2016 ford explorer xlt with 3.5 6 cylinder eco boost. 134000 miles. I want to do what you did but not sure exactly where to feed the seafoam, that's what I'm going to spray, into the intake. Can you help me?

No

while watching your video i ordered my new compensator , thanks

Loved the video I had to keep adjusting the sound however

Hey man good videos, I'm curious about something, the comp kit had two plastic oil deflecters and you used just one of them, is that because the other one is for the earlier twin cams like the 1450 maybe?

Good video brother, just about to do this job on my 103

My 2012 Impala sounds exactly the same, she's got 215k miles and I'm thinking I need the rack and pinion plus struts and wheel bearings all the way around, should be fun. Engine runs healthy so mine as well invest, trans smack a little when accelerating so the mounts might need some looking at too lmao.

Exact same issues on my 09 roadking,yours is the same as mine,bought the sockets ect but don’t fit! I’m changing everything now to a screaming eagle kit

Would be nice to hear the torque values.

Hi, I'm new here. Could you help me... I have a 2017 Dodge or Ram Truck RAM 1500 4WD Truck V6-3.0L DSL Turbo and I get codes p0473 and p0471... I have the warning light on.

Nice video. I have an ‘82 fxrs with similar oil leaks and need for a change of chain and sprockets. I guess that would be just a little bit farther than you went. That would have been nice to see but maybe some other time. I enjoyed your video and I hope that you make more.

You left out way too much information on taking things apart which makes this a useless video. Too bad because I think you could have done much better to help the DIY mechanic.

Excellent video. Thank you.

I have a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix GT2, and I think my bearings are bad. Every time I turn the wheel to the right to make a turn, I get a loud squeal from the front left side, and it persists after the turn unless I slightly turn the wheel to the left. ABS, traction control and variable steering effort warning lights come on when I start it.

Just replaced the stock Compensator on my FXSTC 2009 with the SE and I gotta say, all those issues with noisy shifts, that clunk when accelerating and those starting problems when the engine is hot, are gone! Also the SE isn't as noisy as the stock one

Dem turbo h8u

job well done mate...really informative. Can i ask what oil you used in primary, also can you show us how to change gearbox oil, i think they changed after 79 but mine is 77. thanks again

Don’t forget those swaybar bushings. That will be the next clunking sound.

I have a squeaking sound when going over bumps at a slow speed when wheel turned all the way to the left. I brought it to a shop and they said replace struts but I still hear the noise. No other symptoms but I don't want to drive it like this. The brake pedal makes the same squeaking sound but the other sound happens when foot off the brake

I gotta '00 GTP and will be working on these real soon. Thanks for showing me what I'll be dealing with. I don't have a torch right now, so I'm gonna soak everything in pb blaster for at least a day. 🥃💯

And the POINT??? That’s ALL? Thanks for showing us all you know how to SPIN the wheel bearing!

This video helped a lot keep up the good work thank you!🙏

Does this video cover working on a 2010 dyna wide glide?

got se255 in my dyna, they feel great up top imo. great low end and still got plenty top end.

That tensioner is what is causing your comp to wear out I went with Hayden tensioner

Ford OEM coils rarely go bad. The red coil you had there was a cheap aftermarket replacement. You can pull the boots off the OEM coils and clean up any corrosion from the contacts. Replacement boots are available for cheap as well, if you have a boot with a tear or something.

Coil packs

Mine smoked a lot the first time I did it

It only takes 3 hours to do it by hand every one hundred thousand I use crc cleaner every 10000 miles it was surprisingly clean but down deep she was dirty

Thanks just about all we need!

Ain't nothing for the old girl

Can you tell me what mm socket the spindle nut is, maybe a 34mm?

I think what happened is when it started running a little rough when you're driving it I think a piece of cab and loosened up and got stuck on the valve for a second and then it blew off

The old "compensator bolt was loose, you got It loose to easily.

My 16’ streetglide w/34k. The filter was black. Just changed it.

Holy blow it up...lucky you caught ..spider gears it is...) thats a full floater.. the carrier would be in 2 halfs.if it was limited slip with clutches..) ...4:10's use a 35 spline axle...so you have update options...lol

You can get roughly 140,000 max out of a set of plugs before the truck can barely run

How do people let it get that bad?

I did everything right and mine seized at 64K miles. I changed it every 5K (OEM says 10K) with Rotella T6 5W40, changed fuel filters every 15K. Mine had the EGR cooler recall performed at 60K and they found the front main seal leaking for the 2nd time and fixed that as well. They also replaced the intake manifold, 1 valve cover and the turbo hoses as they were all melted from the EGR cooler issue, despite never throwing a code. 4000 miles later I was driving home around 200 miles into a 225 mile trip and it just shut off without warning. It was locked solid. The factory emailed the EPA asking them to please hurry up and approve their oil spec from 5-30 to 5-40 as they are getting hammered with warranty claims. A small change in viscosity was their fix for design flaws, or at least to hold them off until the warranty ran out. The only unusual thing was that it had 4K on the oil and on the way home the display said "change oil soon". I checked it and it was full and looked fine, so I figured I'd get it done when I got home. I never did. The manual states that message means "within 500 miles" so I wasn't neglectful. I suspect something else went wrong though that affected the oil, either the bearings were going and it sensed metal in the oil, or an injector was hanging and diluted it. The oil looked normal when I checked it, no water or fuel odor, but diesel oil looks nasty as soon as you put it in so no telling. These also have a problem with soot build up that can clog the oil pickup tube and tight bearing passages, so a stuck injector could have caused coking. Some go 300,000 miles, some broke before the first oil change. My new crate motor is now 2.5 years old and has 25K miles on it and is using a quart of oil per 500 miles and the dealer can't figure out why without tearing it down. That cost more than its worth. Someone I know who recently retired from Chrysler engineering told me these have design flaws and were not intended to work with US fuel and emissions as they came. They have a poor harmonic balancer, narrow bearings and tight tolerances that collect soot and starve the bearings. He said they rushed it to market because Fiat needed to boost their VM Motori division, and that they were looting Chrysler to boost corporate profits. He warned me the front seal would leak again and it would likely blow at some point and he was right. It stinks as it is a nice engine as far as fuel economy, performance, smoothness and power delivery are concerned. They just used too much plastic and didn't bother to redesign it to be more reliable for these applications. The 19 and up revision took EGR from post DPF to reduce soot load and beefed up some of the internals to prevent failures. MBAs looking at short term profits over long term customer loyalty and ethics will kill industry.