Hi, my first prints I did with eSun LW-PLA, and its smells bed, and sometimes I felt headake. I know you are curently printing with LW-HT, and i dont see any vents in your space, is it not so toxic ?
@SmokeslingerownerКүн бұрын
Do you disable gyro during bungee launch ? Is that necessary?
@soarkraft9 сағат бұрын
??? I fly the plane, no gyro. This does not have a flight controller or any other flying aides.
@Smokeslingerowner7 сағат бұрын
@soarkraft So many rx have it now i just assumed. I learned on a gentle lady on an AM rx tx.
@SmokeslingerownerКүн бұрын
Like the Bambu?
@DavidCousinsКүн бұрын
I printed the blades off of thingiverse and found the edges of the blade to be very jagged. Unacceptable. I printed with support, both with tree Auto and regular auto. I'm wondering what I did wrong? I used bambu slicer. Also used the special wall method called Arachne. Any guidance would be appreciated.
@soarkraft9 сағат бұрын
What layer height and material did you use? A smaller layer height with give finer detail. Different materials and manufactures do support better. I used Overture PLA Pro and Creality Hyper PLA for my tests. My blades had a rough leading edge, but while balancing them I cleaned them up a little, knife and sandpaper... they were not perfect... performed fine at 10,000 rpm... these are not high rpm props. Also there are all kinds of youtube videos on improving supports and part quality, you don't have to follow "airplane" settings to print this blade.
@VIJAYzkКүн бұрын
i had printed that prop from thingiverse. for some reason probably smoothness injected molded prop gave close to 100 grams more thrust than the 3d printed ones. it was fun anyway
@soarkraft9 сағат бұрын
So if you got that much more, you were ether spinning it way faster than I did, or using a larger dia / pitch... did you use a folding prop for comparison or a standard prop?. I was comparing a cheap plastic folding prop to this 3D printed prop. A better molded prop might be stiffer than the material you printed with and as the forces increase the blade twists reducing thrust. The thingiverse prop is also pretty basic and a better performance blade design would help too, ie DUP, Falcon or Aeronaut... which you could put on a printed hub... but still keep the rpms down for safety.
@VIJAYzk7 сағат бұрын
@@soarkraft I used a commericially avaialable carbon nylon prop (not folding). it is way stiffer and durable than the pla one i printed. i think i used the same dia prop for both (been a few years memory is a bit foggy). Looking back my tests probably were'nt accurate enough cause in a folding one the hub doesnt contibute to lift and also it had an angle to it that probably wasted some thrust force radially. The printed ones helped me save money though because all the initial test of the fixed wing i was working on crashed badly. And now you have shown how good they can be if properly done.
@martincleary90932 күн бұрын
I'm thinking of getting back into slope soaring after many years off. I also have a x1c, so I came across this channel after looking into 3d print planes. As it turns out, I have an older FrSky- I never liked it. Based on the comments, the Radiomaster tx16s seems like a no-brainer for me as well as going with a 3d plane, since the printer cost is already sunk and I got rid of the foam cutting stuff. Sorry to see the crash- hope to see you on a Bay Area Slope soon
@thisgoodstuff40573 күн бұрын
Thanks for the great info! The difference between how it turned out with my settings and after I tried yours is night and day. No more stringing! thank you!
@soarkraft3 күн бұрын
Glad I could help
@vincentrichard27035 күн бұрын
Downloaded your config files for Orca Slicer, needs to select a X1C to appear... Can it be used with P1S ?
@soarkraft3 күн бұрын
Yes, unless something has changed the X1C and the P1S process and filament configurations are interchangeable.
@stefanogreg5 күн бұрын
Fantastic Video especially for beginners to choose a Valuable printer.. I bought one year ago a BQ B1 which is capable of doing a good job (at lower speed of course) But to print a wing section with good quality I had to test, test again, change and test again then I come out with a simple solution I ignored at beginning: build an enclosure which solved many issues! I do not own a bambulab printer but knowing all the struggle to print some freely available planes I'd recommend to get a P1S instead of an A1 especially if you plan to keep the printer in a cold place in the winter ... Second factor the Slicer .. I struggled too much to try to slice properly 3DLab planes (Piper J3) in Cura (was bundled and recommended by BQ) as I was getting blocked with code sliced in Prusa Slicer which was sed by 3dLabPrints .. (for curiosity I can tell it was enough to adjust Custom Start and END G-Code but much more REMOVE tool switch custom G-Code that was pausing the print at start). Complete Different Topic: I love your planes as they fly really well and are well engineered, are you planning to project a "Thermal" glider ?? Some of your planes have good gliding capability not only on the slopes as far as I can see from your videos!!
@flynbenny6 күн бұрын
I have been using that prop design on some other models myself, I haven't failed a blade yet. I will have to buy the power pod file and make a powered Pika at last.
@vincentrichard27036 күн бұрын
Wich plate do you use in your P1S ? I'm afraid the contact between parts will not be very smooth, with the textured PEI...
@soarkraft6 күн бұрын
For the PLAs I use the smooth PEI or Cool Plate, both with a little glue stick. The textured PEI plate needs too much temperature to stick dry, and adding something to help, like glues stick, can be inconsistent or stick too much. The textured for gluing parts together has not been a problem, even with thin CA… but depends on the spot.
@SarahZhou-JLC3DP6 күн бұрын
Hi , can I invite you to be our brand cooperated partner ?
@lolsborn7 күн бұрын
Hey Wayne, do you have X1C profiles for Polylite LW-PLA?
@soarkraft7 күн бұрын
Yes, on the website materials page about halfway down - Pre-foamed v1
@robinbennett59947 күн бұрын
That's an awesome idea - there are so many critical dimensions on a folding prop that I've always had to design a model's nose around a specific system, but printing lets you customise it. I've been printing spinners for a while, so this seems like a logical step. I'd be interested to compare 'good' commercial blades, like the APC folding system. The hobbyking ones have a strange lack of twist.
@bsr32807 күн бұрын
lol love your pre-flight check! 😅
@Blademan017 күн бұрын
I just watched the video and I was surprised by the shout out. Haha. I have not downloaded the file for the hub, so maybe I'm premature and asking this but have you tried it with your T motor? I had to go ahead and recess the original hub to get it to work with T-motor as the shaft is not long enough. If not...have you thought about putting out a alternate file with a recessed section for that application. I can get it done in a CAD program but I'm not that skilled of an cad operator, Plus I've always questioned If modifying a STL file gives you a strong of a part as making the changes from the original file?. Thanks for the video and the info....
@soarkraft7 күн бұрын
The t-motors shafts are short and the mounting is not consistent, but doing a version for the Surpass motor was very easy. I am working on adapting it for a 2207 and F80 size t-Motors. I will add a hub version for them in the future. I may send you some files to try if you want.
@oldman19447 күн бұрын
Normally I'm all over 3D printing as many parts as possible, but personally I think printing props is just too risky. The loads are significant and if one fails it will often destroy the front of the model, and possibly injure anyone nearby.
@meljones70667 күн бұрын
I agree with you, is there a forum with the title `Are 3D print props safe`?
@soarkraft7 күн бұрын
So I agree completely, why risk this part, and that is why it took me so long to try this. Watch the destructive testing… 19,000 rpm.. that’s better than many of the aluminum hub Chinese folding props… which I have broken too… and in the same spot. The power system I am using is only 100 Watts and the ESCs limit the rpm so much I’m not worried about it spinning too fast.
@oldman19447 күн бұрын
@@soarkraft Fair points, it might be fine at low power, and we all have a different tolerance for risk. If you can print glass or carbon filled nylon, that might be a way to reduce risk of failure too.
@JustPlaneChris5 күн бұрын
For what it’s worth, I have printed and flown two different sizes of this prop design, with zero failures. It seems unlikely to work, but it does!
@MrDrivesafe7 күн бұрын
Great work as always!
@markross54107 күн бұрын
Nice, Just received my Bambu printer today and downloaded your Igneous model tonight, Cant wait.. Please keep the videos and models coming
@pdel3037 күн бұрын
Wow excellent you are getting me very close to going the 3d print route.
@CarkeekW9 күн бұрын
@soarkraft Have you ever done a nose cone in TPU ?
@soarkraft8 күн бұрын
I have not, interesting, I will have to try it. I have the material, the A1 is idle at the moment and does TPU well. I do usually count on the nose cone as the “crumple zone” to protect the radio tray from damage… so this might not be a good use for me… I crash a lot and fly in places with very unforgiving landing areas, big rocks.
@CarkeekW8 күн бұрын
@soarkraft if you put an egg in a pla nose cone and a tpu one with a lawn dart tail I'd be backing the tpu to win but maybe I have it wrong , it's what makes it interesting for sure
@6mtzhp559 күн бұрын
I chose an X1C and two A1s. A1s do great with parts that aren't too tall, and the super easy nozzle changes help me do other projects that require 0.2 nozzles like 3D printed business cards. edit: if I'm worried about a tall part on the A1, "Silent" mode can be used to reduce any potential wobble
@soarkraft9 күн бұрын
Yep, "silent mode" that's what I did in the video for the foaming materials to make it a little better... it reduces the accelerations/speed, but only increases time by a couple of minutes. The A1 does slice differently in Bambu and Orca than the X1 and P1... slight variations... but different.
@davidparker715610 күн бұрын
What about the K2 plus from creality?
@soarkraft10 күн бұрын
The K2 is a new product from Creality - so early adopter? Absolutely No. I would not buy a new product from them, especially for that money... I would give it several months and let all the other youtubers find the problems.... if it is good then maybe in June. I have several Creality machines.... uhg... examples of reasons to wait: CR5 and the K1... over time they got better... but not a good start. The K2 is also big, huge, but not that much bigger print volume... I only occasionally need something bigger than 256^3, and never for airplanes. My CR10 Max - has been dormant for years. Even my 300 x 300 x 450 Sidewinders rarely used more than half there print volume over there 5 years in my farm. The Bambu printers are not perfect, but even after 2 years they are still one of the best. I love my P1S for airplane parts... though I love my X1C just a little bit more for work projects.
@vincentrichard27039 күн бұрын
@@soarkraftAfter 8 years tinkering my Ender 3... Creality never again !!! 😱
@floridasaltlife6 күн бұрын
@@vincentrichard2703 Me Too, My BamBoo A1 on the bk Friday sale came in Tuesday and it is the equivalent of life changing if you 3d print often...Only a dozen prints so far and this morning I caught myself sending something to print and I didnt even walk into the other room to watch it start, all is fine. Crazy...
@vincentrichard27035 күн бұрын
@@floridasaltlifemy P1S came on Tuesday too, and I already launch the prints with no doubt on the result !
@AVEAE11 күн бұрын
Thank you, I used the settings from your website in my bambu silicer and X1C printer, and the parts came out perfect.
@soarkraft10 күн бұрын
Awesome, that why I did it.
@rescuemethod12 күн бұрын
You mentioned a foaming material - what is that? Why do you orient the parts up the z axis instead of on the xy plane?
@soarkraft11 күн бұрын
Look up ColorFabb LW-PLA or Bambu AERO, it is a filament that foams as it heats in the nozzle, changing the density and making it lighter. The parts are also mostly hollow, with oriented structure to print well but also hold the shape. Printing flat or xy makes large unsupported top surfaces of the airfoil… not good for printing… stand on end and the airfoil shape is almost perfect.
@patrickdepaepe203512 күн бұрын
I have printed for four years with an Ender 3 Pro. Is very good and OK but especially suitable to learn printing well. Last year I bought a Bambu Lab X1C. Is of a different level. Just super good and especially, so easy to use. Only you have to be willing to pay the price tag.
@soarkraft12 күн бұрын
Like going from a flip phone to an iPhone…. And the P1S is probably the best buy for most. I use my X1C daily for work and planes, the extra “luxury” it has is useful but not necessary, paid for itself in productivity and quality quickly. Prints right the first time, and 5x as fast as my Sidewinders… which I had 3 to keep up with work.
@vincentrichard27035 күн бұрын
@@soarkraft 3 days with my P1S, just amazing ! After a filament calibration made with Bambu Studio, so easy and effective, my prints are just perfect ! Just a problem : what can I do with my Ender 3 ??? 🤣 Sell it for 50€... Or find how to reuse components... Well, just one flaw : it is very noisy 😱 The price of speed...
@marc_frank12 күн бұрын
the flashforge adventurer ad5x can do 4 color / material printing. it even works with tpu for integrated hinges. for $399
@soarkraft12 күн бұрын
You will have to let us know how well it works. I don't like buying brand new products and $399 is not too far off from a P1P. ... Flashforge might be different, I did like my Voxelab printer (flashforge bargain brand) but it was a clone of a clone of a clone. Hopefully your ad5x better than the new Creality stuff from the last year.
@marc_frank12 күн бұрын
@soarkraft i didn't buy it (yet?) 🫠 the k2 plus is actually very good and bambu has tpu for ams now so there are many options and the ams can be modified to work with normal tpu, too
@wk519912 күн бұрын
That price is killer for Core XY and Multi Material though 220mm cubed build volume plus they don't ship here to Hawaii kills it for me.
@marc_frank12 күн бұрын
@@wk5199 that's true, the price is great. 100 to 150 more than just an ams/cfs but you get a whole printer. 220 does seem a bit small, yes. but many designs still use that as the lowest common denominator. i have a 400³ bed slinger, and the height has come in handy a few times, but for wings it's not really practical to go that tall. it does start to wobble real bad. 220 gives a comfortable 300mm diagonal. i doubt many designs have a chord larger than that. for better materials a chamber heater is awesome, none of the bambus do that, right? sadly the ad5x isn't even enclosed.
@vincentrichard270312 күн бұрын
After a two weeks brain storming, I ordered a P1S without AMS, thanks to black friday and another discount I payed it 450€ ! Hope I won't be disappointed with my choice... After an Ender 3 🤣
@soarkraft12 күн бұрын
You will forget about the Ender3 quickly accept for the pain and suffering it put you through. The P1S is so much better and close to the capabilities of the X1 you will not be disappointed…
@Stojce_11 күн бұрын
@@soarkraftsuffering and fixing stuff is the best part, it gives you something to tinker and learn about how machines work and what makes them tick
@soarkraft11 күн бұрын
funny.... no, my hobby is rc gliders not 3D printer maintenance / tinkering though I know how to do it. I have never had to built laserjet printer (for paper), and im fine with that too.
@vincentrichard27039 күн бұрын
@@Stojce_ My hobby is RC gliders and I wasted too much time tinkering my Ender 3... Not funny, just frustrating ! P1S will arrive on Monday 😋 A new Roughgen will fly soon !
@Curious_Skeptic14 күн бұрын
Anyone resin printing 3d planes?
@soarkraft11 күн бұрын
If they have it would be on youtube... do a search. Scale models, yes, fly-able models probably not. Resin printing works well for small precise stuff, though it has been maturing. For work projects I have used resin printers, and the parts always needs additional light box time, cleaning and bubbles were a pain... messy.... but you can get pretty fine detail. The resin also changes over time (like it dries out) and parts three or four weeks old were really brittle even with a clear coat. The polyjet machines do a better job, but still.... and the cost to get an industrial machine to print a plane would be $$$$$. FDM printing works really well for this.
@Curious_Skeptic9 күн бұрын
@@soarkraft Well, I have both now. Bought an A1 Bambu and Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra.
@Curious_Skeptic14 күн бұрын
Cool. I waited a long time to get into 3d printing. Picking up a1 today I hope. Not a fan of the multi feed, but that is all that is in stock.
@soarkraft12 күн бұрын
It’s a good printer and can print nice quality parts fast, especially with PLA. I was also surprised at how well it prints TPU.
@Curious_Skeptic12 күн бұрын
@@soarkraft This is great news! I ended up ordering direct as local could only get the combo. I have zero reason to print multicolor. Everything will be primed and hand finished.
@SarahZhou-JLC3DP15 күн бұрын
Hi, This is sarah.Your content is quite a match with our brand's service and application scene. I would like to invite you to experience our 3DPrinting service and test our materials. May I ask about your interests?
@kolkatatechfpv16 күн бұрын
yeah buddy a great job but u want u to support u in by giving money for 3d print filaments but in that case u should make the files free to use also for everyone out there
@soarkraft10 күн бұрын
I only make money from files, I don't make anything from filaments. I just like trying new materials and showing how well my files work with them.
@danitegue17 күн бұрын
Another chance to the taranis? Hehe
@JustGoAndFly17 күн бұрын
Havent been impressed with the PLA HT. Less foaming means a higher flow rate, putting it in the weight range of PP-CF, which is more durable, rigid, and withstands higher temperatures
@soarkraft17 күн бұрын
do you mean the no-foaming PLA-HT (now called PLA-HP)? I love the idea of CF materials, but they have never been worth the effort and cost.. I will have to look at PP-CF. I don't think you can get PP-CF to a .6g/cm^3 density... best I could find was 1.0g/cm^3.
@JustGoAndFly17 күн бұрын
@@soarkraft the foaming HT foams less than the non HT. To achieve the same volume you need more flow compared to normal active foaming, in my experience, .15 more. The pp cf spool is 750g. My LW foaming pla natural at .5 flow rate produces a given plane at 86 grams, the same plane from pp cf, 115g, HT would be about 98-100g - i'll take the half ounce for significantly improved durability
@Blademan0117 күн бұрын
Thanks for the video, I enjoyed it.
@AerialWaviator17 күн бұрын
Nice model design improvements. Great to hear details on LW-PLA-HT material properties.
@AeroRC18 күн бұрын
Shame that no one asking in your Contact page on your website. Ive asked if its possible to feet a 4s in your pod motor? With some 4s 1100-1500? This pod can feet a 28mm motor?
@soarkraft17 күн бұрын
do you mean fit? Yes, a 28mm diameter motor will fit. And yes a 4S lipo will fit too. As you increase speed and desire to pull hard turns the material and design need to match. The LW foaming materials are great for sub 80 mph, but will need more stiffness for higher speeds... The Juicy wing, that will fit this fuselage, has been recorded at 187mph (300kph) doing dynamic soaring printed from PLA and hope to go faster.
@AeroRC17 күн бұрын
@@soarkraft thanks for your asking. Have you got some customers tried the 6s setup ?
@bsr328018 күн бұрын
What radio did you go with? Is the more important question
@soarkraft18 күн бұрын
I have a couple I'm considering, but it has been a huge distraction from what I want to work on.
@vincentrichard270318 күн бұрын
Such beautifull gliders ! What about a 2m wingspan one ?
@soarkraft18 күн бұрын
on the list, but have lots of distractions... 1.6M coming soon
@ripmax33318 күн бұрын
I fell in love with this model, as soon as you throwed it and flew flawless, I will buy the files! Pls is there any chance to make a version with a center landing wheel and maybe two small others on the wings, I don't have the luxury of a grass strip😢.
@soarkraft18 күн бұрын
been thinking about doing this. Skids on the wings.
@ЕвгенЗадко20 күн бұрын
Cool comparison. But in my case, polymaker lw-pla has the almost same weight as petg. Does everybody know what should be changed to achieve lighter weight with this plastic?
@soarkraft18 күн бұрын
Depends on what you are printing it with, I use Orca Slicer and a Bambu X1C and have to reduce the flow ratio to .92 to get the proper weight of 67% of regular PLA. Cura and a sidewinder did not have this problem, but Cura is terrible and the sidewinder is too slow.
@ЕвгенЗадко18 күн бұрын
@@soarkraft thanks, will try
@HalbritterWolfgang21 күн бұрын
Great shit
@soarkraft8 күн бұрын
This plane design has done 187mph, and will hopefully do 200
@thomasstahlwitz446521 күн бұрын
Jeti DS 16II
@GLedieu-w4y23 күн бұрын
Radiomaster TX16S II with ER8GV !
@SteveLoves2Fly28 күн бұрын
Hey Wayne, this is Steve from FrSky. I would like to talk to you about this video and see what we can do to help. I left you a message offline. I am sorry you lost such a cool plane. I will help make sure you are in a better place after this unfortunate event. -Steve
@RoarIsaksen195929 күн бұрын
Sporadic errors are the worst. That makes it almost impossible to find a fault that is not there most of the time. Have used Futaba most of my life, but have now switched to Radiomaster TX16S MKII. Very happy and really impressed with all the new possibilities this radio gives me. Internal module is ELRS and external module is the 4 in 1. So i can still use all my old different receivers with my new controller.
@joem563929 күн бұрын
Looks like a cheap copy of a JR9303.
@Dahoodk29 күн бұрын
This is a very good video, just wanted to ask, for plane parts which printer is the best
@soarkraft2 күн бұрын
Of the Bambu Lab Printers that I have the X1C prints the best, the P1S is a close second for airplane parts and the A1 is a great printer, but not as good as these other two.. but way better than most. Now overall for the entire market there is no best printer as there are too many variables for what everyone wants. It is hard to keep up with, but everyone seems to compare to Bambu because they are that good and have stayed the one to beat. They did a good job of figuring out how to make 3D printing way better than it was.
@l89tvu29 күн бұрын
I would like to see how the ColorFabb HT compares to the 3D Lab Print PolyLight filament.
@svospreyАй бұрын
I think using OpenTX just wears the switches on the radio out. I too moved away from FrSky and just purchased the new Futaba T26sz. All touch screen so no switches to fumble with. So far so good.