Thanks for this great video. I just barely replaced mine with your help. Funny thing, the door had never been opened as far as I could tell because the vapor barrier was completely intact and the original motor was still in place but, there was no spring. There was nothing sitting in the door loose and nothing broken. At some point someone replaced the speakers but that's the only time someone's been in there. Would not having a spring cause the motor to fail sooner without the assist? It seems to go up and down fine with the new motor.

when will they be available to order?

Great video, did tbis mod to my 1974 Carrea Targa back in the day.

Looks great!

Well done Joe, that will help me a lots, thanks you very much

Ah crap I just installed one that is the style that sticks out. This one is much nicer looking.

Why didn’t you just put a shorter stud in the front so that drilling wasn’t necessary?

Perfect timing! Just what I need 😉

Thanks so much for all your efforts. Just awesome!

I had the same issue my passenger window wouldn’t come up pulled out and found out the motor is fine but only goes down so just a switch issue great help from your video… in my 993 there’s less open spots so it’s tougher to put the top rollers on the rail

Great video! I was thinking i would need to do a partial engine drop to get a good look in there and apparently I don’t! Cheers

Thanks Joe, your videos are very informative, and you make things look easy. If possible, can you do a video on how the tapping of the WUR is done and explain how it affects the performance of the K-Jetronic fuel injection system, and your personal opinion on this modification. Best!

Need your advice. My turn signal switch is shot I think when I put my turn signal on With my headlights on the headlights go On and off- Any advice on how to change the turn signal switch? I ordered it already form az?

All the years of watching utube videos on fixing my cars, your the best instructor. The oil cap off was something I didn’t know.

Will having an incorrect duty cycle, calls the engine to tub slightly under acceleration with a frequency that’s around 0.5hz?

When you say "without a Lamda system" Are you referring to those unfortunate owners who have a completely deleted lamda system (like myself)? ie. Nothing there

Might be old but… I just tried this in my 1972 2.4 T. It seemed to work but now… I can’t get into reverse gear! Did as you said, lever in the middle and left. Is there a way I can make the car work again without calling the mechanic? Hahah

Hey Joe, I did a pressure check and all we’re good except the cold control pressure was just a little under spec. Anyway, I have noticed a sort of galloping feel when under acceleration especially at lower rpm’s. What do you think could be the cause of this?

Hello, nice video! Wouldn't it be also possible to "inject" the smoke in front of the car, where the brake booster line gets to the brake booster? Maybe for ease of process it would be first also enough to just seal the inlet of the airbox (I have no pop-up valve and are most concerned about the lines, not so much the box itself). Thanks

Hey Joe, Great video! I have a '82 SC that I rebuild (with help from my local mechanic). Your video helped to pinpoint what might be causing my cold start issue. However, my issue only seems to occur when my garage gets over 90℉, which is most of the summer (I live in Florida). Thus the WUR gets up to temp very quickly (10-15sec) and the cold start pressure (according to the graph) at 90℉ is about 3 bar, which does not give much engine warm up time. I usually have to step on the accelerator for a minute or two to keep it from running rough. Is there a solution for this?

Hi Joe Great video! I have a 1974 and had problems with my fuel system. This video was helpful in lack of the Bentley Manaual:-) I havent tryed it yet - but will certianly do. One question: I noticed your fuel pump did make som “noise” - or am I wrong? My pump sits just in front of left rear wheel and does not make that much noise when working in good order. The problem I had was fuel line on the suction side of my pump - it was deteoriated and some debris went into the pump inlet side which caused the problem I mentioned. The sound from my pump was getting louder and when reading Wayne Dempseys book “101 projects” I just thougth that the pump should be replaced. I did replace it - but at that point it was broken. They can not run without cooling of the fuel:-) My new pump (and new fuel line) works fine now - and my fuel filter is also replaced - it recived a lot of debri from the fuel line

Tengo un Porsche 911 SC 3.0 año 1978 presenta una falla tarda para encender una vez que que está caliente acelera bien lo apago y prende sin ningun problema pero cuando lo pongo en marcha pasando unos 100 MTS empieza a falla de nuevo pierde aceleración y potencia

There is nothing that click's. It is just a screw.

Excellent!

Thank you for this series of videos Joe; these were invaluable. It was daunting at first, but took my time. I finished my replacement sunroof seal job on my '78 SC last night without a hitch! My wind deflector was a three-piece like yours, which appears to be original to the car. I ended up using a dry PTFE lube on the sunroof cables and motor gear; hopefully that stays pretty clean. Thanks again!

Just watched the 3 parts to this sunroof project. Excellent work & congratulations on fixing it successfully. Hope re-adding the motor covers at the end helped to quieten down the sunroof motor noise. 👍👍👍

Great Video.. I put smoke into the Dizzy Retard line into front bottom of the Throttle valve, Plugged everything as you did, No smoke up top but I get smoke under the engine very close to the oil cooler, What could this be??? I've been using a lot of your video's and web site... Thanks

Did the smoke test. Discovered my pop off valve rubber O ring is leaking. Does anyone have a source or O ring size they can share?

Thank you for all your excellent and thoughtful videos(and website). I have an 83 SC as well and have to do this. On another note, my SC did not have an oxygen sensor, so I replaced that and the relay on the unit under the passenger seat, but almost seemed to run worse. I’m not running a cat, but stock muffler. Scratching my head on that. Replaced the WUR with a new one, but still doesn’t really start the way it should. Runs strong otherwise. Guess I have more work to do!

add an inline fuse for the windshield wiper motor, the motor is unfused when it is goes to park, if the motor jams it can burn up the wiring. I replaced the entire dash wiring harness on a 1976 912E.

God job, Joe 🎉

Very insightful walkthrough on the oil change. Just did mine yesterday & it was a breeze on my 71T. Thank you

Did you use OEM seals or aftermarket? where did you purchase them?

With all due respect, the outside plate won't fit through the hole unless I grind it down and then it compromises the ability of the plates to stay in place. I tried it with similar plates and the whole mechanism just pushed through. The option then is to buy a new door and not stay with the original metal. I decided to put a plate on the inside with an eye bolt through it and use a strong nylon tie to link the door and the frame. It's a simple solution and will only annoy the purists. After all, it's a 50 year old car.

@JoeEngineer I just picked up an 1983 911 SC Targa. Needs an oil change but when I start it to take it to "warm temperature" it smokes a bunch because of old owner pour too much oil. Any tips on how to go about it? Could I do an oil change at cold temps? Thanks in advance!

A German car car has degrees Celsius instead of Fahrenheit. Greatings from Bavaria.

Is it possible to remove the sunroof leather panel without removing the whole roof? Question because I would like to have it reupholstered. Thanks

I was wearing an effing scarf one morning when I checked the level in my Targa’s oil tank and my scarf fell and I almost pulled an Isadora Duncan

This series of videos are great. Everything has gone smoothly, though when fully assembled the roof only retracts about 3-4" and then binds and won't go further. When I remove the front bolts/guide brackets and provide a bit of upward force on the front of the roof while retracting everything runs smoothly. However when I reassemble everything, and try again it binds. So I'm thinking something is causing the roof to not tilt as much as needed to fully retract. Any ideas?

Thanks for the great video... helped me get started with the repair. Quick questions... how's the JB Weld repair on the cable holding up? I've got a similar issue where the cable and slider are in good condition, and I think things just seized/broke due to grease becoming quite sticky. $3 of JB sounds much better than $250-500 of new cables! Along these lines... what do you recommend for lubrication of the slides? Do you lubricate the cable as well?

Question: When you push the headlight washer switch on the dash, does the headlight pump only activate for a second or so? In other words, on my system, (1985), keeping my headlight washer switch depressed doesn't continuously activate the motor. It only pumps for a second. Then you need to push it again (or more times) to get water to come out the nozzles again. Is that normal? If that is the normal operation, then I think its because of the headlight washer relay.....If you depress and hold your headlight washer switch on the dash (while lights are on), does your pump continuously pump, or does it cutoff, and you have to push it again?

Hi Jose, all the tuning applies while the engine is warm?

Correct on the arguments of this thing. That’s a rabbit hole. They all seem to work the same way, except placement of vacuum fuel enrichment. Between the earlier ones and the 81 to 83

So the mixtrue screw only adjusts the flapper height up or down? Thanks for the video.

Joe thank you for all your videos. I have been on the identical journey with a 78 911sc I bought 4 years ago. your videos have been a huge help. Cheers from Canada.

Great video, where did you get the shop wiring diagram? Having issues with my power mirrors so those diagrams would come in handy. Thank you

Thanks a lot for this really useful video. Cheers from south of Paris (France).

lol, Unbolting the oil nut under the engine - I've done the exact same thing, trying to move my hand away quickly. good video - and honest. I let the nut drop straight in the pan and retrieve it later.

Thanks Joe. First video I have seen from you and that's a nice explanation. My car is a 1977 2,7 CIS and I seem to be having the same problems with a surging idol but only during the warm up cycle. During the first start up I get surging and the revs are really bouncing up and down until the car is up to temp. After that, the revs sit at a solid 950. This problem is really annoying and something that i have lived with for a few years, since I did the rebuild. Now, it needs to get sorted out. I think it is far too rich during the warm up cycle and it's like it's not getting enough air, but I am struggling to locate the issue. The Engine loom is new, the WUR & Fuel Distributer was rebuilt. The Thermo valve is new, the AAR is working correctly. All components in the system have power when the engine is running and seem to be functioning correctly. My fuel pressures are in spec etc etc. It's a real head scratcher but i will be using your videos as a guide to cross the t's and dot the i's! Thanks for positing.

If these are the carrera type pressure fed tensioners would you need to prime them like you do here. I thought the pressure fed tensioners don't need to be primed and you can just install them after you finish timing the cams.