Good luck in the competition!

Pledge, it used to be called Future in the US.

Mine is a 0.3mm.

Yeah that's the stuff. It's an acrylic floor varnish but works great on models too!

Haha. 😂

You can do both, however I would recommend applying after you've sealed the underlying paint in with a varnish. In this video I used a gloss varnish as it's then easier to remove oils if they go wrong.

I like the effect. We're not all striving for super realism. The hobby is about expression after all.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Clay wash.

It can be applied to any finish. Depending on on what look you are after.

Haha thanks!

You didn't follow what I did then. Pay attention to where I say you have to put down a gloss varnish before you try this. This is also a clay wash so it's easy to remove.

Many thanks!

not really .. lots of kit manufacturers have issues .... some far more then Airfix of late ..

And you call me pretentious! 😂

"i understand its your model and all". Apparently you dont. Because you completely contradict yourself with this statement. And then have the audacity to call him pretentious as well. Wich is ironically exactly what you are being. With regards to realism, im an aircraft mechanic. You seem to confuse realism with the norm. The fact that most aircraft are clean doesnt mean an aircraft cant be absolutely filthy (example, anything flying for the Greek air force atm). And another point, this is a video on how to apply techniques for oil weathering, wich implies showing how to do certain things, you dont go extremely subtle then, because its much easier to watch a video of someone doing extreme things and tone it down than someone being extremely subtle with everything and then amplifying it. You claim to make models for fun amd relaxation. Maybe you should do the same with watching videos. And maybe try to learn from how others do things but apply it to your own context. Instead of just yapping like this.

Much appreciated!

Yeah basically. There's many ways to do the same thing. Thinning the oils is good for streaks and stains or panel washes.

Thanks!

AK extreme metals. Various shades.

What I would say, a few years on from making this video is that I was quite heavy handed in this video, but it helped show it. I would be a lot more subtle for a display model. Good luck with your Coastal Command aircraft!

Weirdly I never had any issues with the mk.1 kit. This was a lot worse, I used styrene rod on my 2nd build which sorted the issue for me.

Not all modellers are aiming for verisimilitude. Some, like myself, tend to lean towards the artistic expression that modelling offers. I get to lay down layers and paint and express how I want things to look. This video is an expression of my ethos. As with anything, people are free to disagree. It matters not to me.

@@spruetherapy Now that was clearly a pretentious answer to the guys comment.

I think you are projecting quite a bit here Paul. Happy modelling.

Thank you!

Thanks 👍

Hi Peter. The final coat is personal preference and more about how the real aircraft's finish looked. For WW2-era fighters, most seem to be matt or semi-matte. More modern aircraft might lean towards gloss. But the best bet would be to look at reference pictures to get a good idea of the finish of the aircraft you are building. For metallic, I generally use a gloss finish to keep the metallic sheen. I hope that helps!

@@spruetherapy thank you very much. Just 1 more question. I would like to change my enamel paints for acrylic ones because it is cheaper and i am gonna do metallic aircraft. What would you recommend me to buy for that? I mean like what primer, paint, varnishes. And maybe some tips you could give me. I hope I am not asking too much.

I have had a lot of luck with Vallejo acrylic paints. Although you do get a lot of tip drying when spraying through the airbrush.

That requires extra dedication! :D

You're very welcome!

Thanks, it's getting the time to do them which I'm finding difficult as I already run a much bigger KZbin channel (EnglishBikerDan) about motorcycles and I have a ful time job too. I have some more stuff planned though!

Thank you!

I'm yet to try the new decals. Not sure I'll bother trying to remove the backing as once it goes wrong, it'll be a pain to fix!

Thank you!

I think that might be harder tbh.

@@spruetherapy I think I might try anyway just to see.

Yeah I've had a go with this method a couple of days ago. What I've found is that for oil/enamel based washes you can run the wash into recessses easily and it flows very nicely. But for clay/water based washes, due to the surface tension I found I had to really flood the surface for it to run into the recesses. @@darkblades1201

@@spruetherapy good to know!

Did you manage to build your first kit? How did it go?

I've got the Tamiya Mk1 as well. Just need to find some aftermarket decals! :)

@@spruetherapy awesome 👌🏻 why are you going aftermarket decals?

I've never had any luck with Tamiya decals. I find them far too thick and they don't settle into the recesses even with multiple coats of decal setter/softener. @@themodellingmuppet

Thanks for watching. No the gloss doesn't need to be oil based. I use a waterbased acrylic gloss in this vid.

Thanks very much!

Yeah there's a few tricks you can use to solve these issues. Seems it's not needed on all the kits thankfully.