@@robbymendel6470 The length of the rod is the radius, 36” would probably be too long to be practical because the tool would be very far from the chuck. I just find a scrap piece of metal that is close to the length of the radius I want to cut, then I cut it to the correct length, then put points on the ends of it.

It vibrates at idle, but not too bad. The dual mass flywheel is supposed to help, but I don't have one.

No, I have used this method on several lathes. Be very careful when center punching cast iron lathe parts like the carriage cross slide in this video . Try to stay away from edges or corners . It is easy to crack or break off an edge if you punch too hard . Cast iron is easy to break . Using a small center drill instead of a punch is a risk free alternative .

No, it still cold starts rough, I just have lived with it, it only last for about 30 seconds and then the O2 sensor turns on and it clears up. I tried 1 map leaner and it did not help. I did not try 2 maps leaner. It definitely seems too rich. The Edelbrock tech I was dealing with was adamant on using the correct wizard map for my engine. But he didn't have any solutions for my problem other than sending me a new distributor, which did not help. He seemed convinced it was something other than the map. The way it is now it fouls my plugs black. It also uses a lot more fuel than I think it should. When the O2 turns on, it immediately starts removing fuel [trim]. Thanks for the tip! I will try it next time I drive it. I don't drive it much. Edelbrock really needs to address this issue. There needs to be a method for tuning the cold start, open loop portion other than just guessing how rich or lean it needs to be. Didn't matter if I set it to full rich or full lean, It still ran really bad.

If you don't have access to a machine shop, you would not be able to modify the FJ40 drivetrain to fit a 1KZ. I did see an adapter bellhousing on ebay a long time ago, but it was really expensive. We have no diesel donor vehicles here. If we did, I would have went with a donor vehicle drive train. Get the whole vehicle if it is a 1kz-te because you will need the wiring harness. One big challenge is the exhaust routing, but maybe not an issue with right hand drive, I don't know. I love the engine, it is nearly perfect for the FJ40 [except the exhaust is on the wrong side]. I can run 70 MPH all day with the 5 speed. Has great low end torque on the trail.

Well no shit, I removed fuel because the engine was flooding { getting too much fuel}.

Edelbrock tech was no help to me, they need to come up with a way to tune for cold start, since the computer can't tune its self until the engine is 160 degrees.

No I didn't. It still runs rough on startup with the engine at ambient temperature. I have spent a massive amount of time and money trying to fix this problem. New computer, new distributor, new oxygen sensor, multiple new spark plug changes. I would recommend using the Sniper. I have a friend that builds high performance engines, he has used the sniper in several engines and they have all worked flawlessly for him. I wanted the port fuel injection, but didn't expect the Edelbrock to be so bad. I am also getting terrible fuel mileage with a brand new GM crate engine with a small stock cam.

Just saw your post regarding the 2LT/1KZ-TE injection pump conversion. I'm still doing (lots) of research, though the thought crossed my mind of finding a complete 12mm distributive head to bolt on to the 4m40 pump housing. I have quite a few injection pumps to play with, though I figured that would be the easiest way to go about it. No idea if it's feasible or not, though I've found a head that may suit and it's only around $50 so might give it a shot. Would appreciate your input if you have any or if you could point me in the direction of any more info. In the meantime, I'll keep researching! Cheers.

Thanks! No I don’t know how much horsepower it makes. It will go up steep hills in fifth gear without downshifting, so the torque is good. It gets great fuel mileage.

The answer to your question is in the comment right below your comment. Also a link to the build thread .

Nope, still runs like crap until the oxygen sensor warms up and comes on, then it runs perfect.

@@wims58ej I've seen a lot more content on the 02 sensor than pretty much anything else for this system, I get they keep it a closed loop till it warms up, but if it don't work that must mean an issue in the Computer unit. Over compensation maybe, have you tried taking it to a professional tuner?

@@SunsetSesh It is open loop until the oxygen sensor warms up enough to work, then it is closed loop, but not self learning until the engine temp is 165 degrees. No, I haven't taken it to a tuner yet, I have been doing a frame off restoration. I haven't driven it in a long time.

@@wims58ej ok so I just installed this system, and I got it to run at first. It ran kinda funky and I figured I gotta do timing and all that. after I went through setup and timed it just how directions said, as soon as it got to over 165 it started back firing through the intake! That was today, and it kept getting worse, so I have to wait til Monday to call tech support to get an idea what is going on.

Hate it . Still can't get it to run right. Edelbrock thought it was the distributer. They sent me a new one and it didn't help.

@@wims58ej what part of the country are you at? Only reason I ask is because if you are close I could possibly help, I am about an hour west of DC.

@@johncharles9105 Thank you sir, but I live in Arkansas.

It has an air to water intercooler on the top of the engine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oGSVmHhtgNN2bqc

Thank you!

This is the build thread. forum.ih8mud.com/threads/78-fj40-1kz-te-h55f-orion.723496/ The intercooler made a huge difference, it has worked perfectly. I got the intercooler off ebay, I had to modify the inlet and outlet to point down. I don't have a link, that was a long time ago. Also got the intercooler radiator off ebay. The water pump is for a supercharged ford mustang intercooler. I wired it to come on with the ignition. I think it was made by bosch. It has been totally trouble free. It is also totally silent. I am running 14 psi boost.

Thank you!

I don’t understand, how would it do that?

​@@wims58ej as the crosslide moves forward, it straightens out the stick, by pushing the carriage backwards

@@hoppercar Yes, as the rod straightens it pushes the carriage backwards.

​@wims58ej I had the same concern, that forcing the saddle to the right without using the hand wheel might damage something. So it doesn't mash on the handwheel drive gear? I love this if it won't wreck my lathe! :) Thanks guys.

Thanks

Thanks

Thank you Sir!

Glad you enjoyed it!

No, it came set to wide open. I also have a regulator at my tank that I turn down to 60 psi and then I have really good speed control at the sander with the flow control screw using a screwdriver.

@@wims58ej Thanks for posting the adjustment possibilities and for your reply... Phillip

I didn’t have a problem with warm start, only cold start. Edelbrock sent me a new distributor.

So the problem was with the distributor not the actual EFI itself!?

On a lot of these units the feedback is not accurate.

Exactly, the rod will stay in place and cut an extremely precise radius as long as you feed in, and your gibs are not loose. If you have a loose lathe you can hold pressure on the apron hand wheel as the cross slide auto feeds in, to keep the radius rod in place.

That is really slick! Great job!

@@StuartdeHaro thanks Stuart

@@wims58ej cheers

Thanks Colin!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Can I het Your WA number please? 🙏🙏🙏🙏

Grade 2

@@wims58ej I was going to guess 1 or 2. I've seen a place advertising that they'll deep draw grade 9 now.

@@Micah_Makes Grade 1 will draw slightly better than grade 2. Grade 2 is slightly stronger than grade 1, and I was able to get it for a better price than Grade 1. This material is .015" thick.

@@wims58ej yeah, I knew the info about grade 1 and 2. Been looking to try my hand at some rubber pad forming of titanium. The Grade 9 stuff still seems to be quite hush-hush still.

@@Micah_Makes Should work okay for a shallow draw on grade 1 or 2. The material is very malleable, but will gall terribly if it slides under pressure across any metal dies that are not made from ampco 25 bronze.

A few drops of air tool oil in the air inlet every time you use it.

@@wims58ej ty, looks like a useful tool.. appreciate the hack