It would depend on how the catch can is plumbed. For a vented to atmosphere can like this, even if I had a MAF sensor, I'd still have the catch can plumbed with one line on each valve cover into the catch can itself, just as I showed on this video. There is no way for un-metered air to get into the intake manifold since there is nothing connecting the catch can to the intake. The active two-stage catch can that we sell has two valves inside it, one is on the vacuum side and replaces the PCV valve. The other is a flapper valve that goes under the filter, which prevents air from being drawn into the can through the filter. I have that catch can on my truck, we used my truck as a product development vehicle for the LT engines.

@@ProudlyNobody what is it that you would like to know?

@ with all due respect to your very comprehensive video .. i was seeking, the why and to which valve cover goes which catch can port connetion .. mind you i habe the basic ebay special.. which isnt as robust as the one in your video .. but most to all ls catch can videos(even those featuring the can i have) miss that point .. ie oil drain port to driver or passenger side vis-à-vis air release to breather to driver or passenger.. respectfully

@ProudlyNobody there are a few different styles of catch cans, this is a vented to atmosphere can. We also sell a recirculating style catch can, we can replace the filter on the top of the recirculating catch can to make an entirely sealed system catch can, or a hybrid of the two styles of catch can. With a vented to atmosphere catch can, you run a hose from each valve cover into the catch can, that's it. Pressure goes from high to low, in this case, from the crankcase out to the atmosphere through the catch can. Between the baffles in the valve cover themselves and in the catch can, there is no oil that comes out of the filter, just steam and crankcase vapors. Ideally, the catch can should be mounted above the valve covers, but at the end of the day, mount it where it fits the best. The reason that it should be above the valve covers is so that any liquid that condensed inside the hoses can drain back to the engine. The trade-off if it's mounted lower is that you may have to drain the can a little more frequently. It sounds like you may have a recirculating style catch can, in which case the hoses would be plumbed differently than on a vented to atmosphere catch can. Mounting location is going to play the largest factor when it comes to the plumbing, but at the end of the day, there really isn't much difference between the drivers side and the passenger side valve covers. On a recirculating catch can, one valve cover will get connected to a fresh air source, most commonly the cold air tube between the air filter and the throttle body. The other valve cover will be plumbed into the catch can, and then the other port on the catch can will be connected to a vacuum source such as on the intake manifold itself. Hopefully, this clears things up. If not, ask whatever questions that you may have. At least once a day, I get a call about catch cans and which one someone should run.

@ like math and science, it cleared up my lack of understanding.

Thanks, I'm glad that you liked it.

Lol, I had forgotten that I said that. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Thanks for watching and commenting. If the main concern is oil getting into the intake, in my opinion a vented to atmosphere can like the one I show in this video is the way to go simply because there is no possible way for oil to end up in the intake, and you also won't have steam and crankcase vapors contaminating your intake air charge. There is a link in the video description for that. If vapors and smells are a concern for you, Motion also has a recirculating can that is good up to about 800 horsepower. We put it on my truck as a product development test vehicle since I have a stock LT engine in my Silverado. I replaced another brands catch can with the Motion one, and the following weekend, I made a trip to Kansas City to see my daughter. Without any other changes and the stock tune, my average fuel mileage went up from 16.8 to 18.8. We did change how the can was plumbed though, we capped off the stock PCV valve in the valley cover and went from one of the 5/8 barbs on the valve cover into the crankcase port on the can, and then connected the vacuum port on the can to the intake manifold. If you have any other questions about catch cans, give me a call at work, and I'd be glad to answer them. 800-878-9274 Here is a link for that can: motionraceworks.com/products/sealed-top-loader-billet-internally-baffled-oil-catch-can-dual-10an-port?sca_ref=5657354.2bFxAmD5qf

@TrailerParkMotorsports will do and thanks so much for the input. At first I went with some kind of generic after market valve covers..but they do have the gaurd to keep the oil in. I changed to a generic catch can and just vented it, but over a 2 hour trip it will get alot of steam and maybe and ounce of oil in it. So I was just going to get some oem valve covers and see if that helped any before I came up on your video. I'll probably give you a call. Thanks

Sorry to tell you this, but everything that you just said was wrong

They are great. I don't live in West Texas anymore, but they are still great for spotting critters on the sides of the road.

Yes, wait until you see what i did to the doors in my next video. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Yup, that's in there mounted to the strut tower. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Great to hear and glad to help.

I only saw him in the staging lanes. Every time he was getting close to running, I was busy in the pits with the car that I was crewing on. I saw him again this year, but I was even busier than I was last year.

I haven't seen one, but that's not to say that it isn't in one of the newer updates.

No, i do not. I will have one soon, and another one for the front because I'm switching to TBM XS3 brakes.

That would be a great one to get back. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Catch up on the safety gear, a new intake manifold and camshaft, a few other odds and ends, and it should drop new numbers in no time.

@TrailerParkMotorsports jussssst need some motivation at PRI next month

@WardenMotorsports I'm looking forward to going, I've wanted to attend for a long time.

Thanks, next year should be even better.

Well, that's the name of the part. motionraceworks.com/products/alternator-pulley?sca_ref=5657354.2bFxAmD5qf

I work for Motion. Do you always act like someone pissed in your cereal?

It's in my latest video. Here is the link for it. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIbPiqWLqL6rrpIsi=qaS-N5d2pqvxW2x-

Thanks. The car is getting some pretty big changes over the winter, but we plan on coming out swinging and crushing the goals.

Thanks buddy. One day maybe I can get one of those fancy picture taker guys from LS Fest to join us.

@TrailerParkMotorsports we'll make it happen!

A lot of changes over the winter, but I plan on coming out swinging and hoping that you're there when the goals get squashed.

It's always good to hear from you Tim. I was starting to worry about you, I hadn't seen a comment from you in a while.

Thanks for watching and commenting. With the solid state relay, it is not needed. You would if you used a standard Bosch relay or had the solenoid directly wired to the ECU.

@@TrailerParkMotorsports just the answer I was looking for. Thank you

​@TrailerParkMotorsports I also notice the orange wire to the relay is a heavy gauge, and the arm switch it's wired to is a small probably 16 gauge.. these arm switches aren't meant to be ground side controlled?

@@laned8418 They were intended to only be a ground trigger. Here is the link for the instructions for the NOS brand solid state relay. documents.holley.com/199r11304.pdf

Absolutely.

I was hesitant at first, they aren't cheap, but they were worth it for me. The 2x12 ramps would have ended up even heavier to work for my car, but perhaps something that doesn't have as much front overhang would work well with the wooden ramps.

Ain't nothing to it but to do it. Thanks for watching and commenting. motionraceworks.com/products/1982-92-third-gen-fbody-parachute-mount-camaro-firebird-trans-am?sca_ref=5657354.2bFxAmD5qf

Thanks, Romeo. It's been on my list for a while, I'm very glad that I picked it up. Even though it's like 8 feet longer than a uhaul trailer, this unit is lighter and pulls better. I should have pulled the trigger a long time ago.

That may be a winter purchase

Thank you for the compliment as well as for watching and commenting.

Links for everything used in the video are in the video description.

Thanks, it was a fun project

What box?

@@TrailerParkMotorsports I don't remember exactly. There was some inference about me having a small penis though

It was a very clean ride

How did you scale the GM sensors in the dash? Inaccurate scaling will cause the sensors to read incorrectly or not at all. A 3 wire 5 volt pressure sensor needs a 5 volt power wire, a ground wire that gets wired to the chassis ground, and the signal wire that gets wired to input. A 2 wire temperature sensor uses a thermistor, one wire gets wired to the input, the other goes to the sensor ground.

@@TrailerParkMotorsports I was told with the gm ones I didn’t have to scale them. But now I’m thinking that’s what I’m going to have to do

I would set up the fans on your heat exchange the same way that I did with my transmission cooler.

You're welcome, I'm glad to help.

Indeed

The valley should be sealed on any application because, as I said, it is a very dirty source to ventilate from. The best place to ventilate from would be the valve covers.

Thank you for the clarification and the videos. Much appreciated!

@@nerdbiscuit You're welcome, glad to help.

There sure is, a CAN splitter would do the trick. The 12.3 should have a CAN splitter built-in to the end of the harness, allowing you to plug in the 3.5" handheld to the 12.3" dash and the ECU.