Thanks for your question, I've been out chasing a dollar (interstate truckin) but changed recently to local work so I'm hoping to get back into it. Lets see if I can get a vid up before Xmas

steve clancy your box is awesome, wish I can make 1 similar lol

Hi Lukas, thanks for your interest. I did not make enough of these to warrant a production run but this was a key step in product evolution, email me at [email protected] and I will send some pics of what the product looks like now. As to a purchase, I'm in Australia where are you ?

steve clancy hi steve, i'm from germany

Where is the HaHa button

Might try that...

Tim Lewis Hi Tim, good to see people are questioning the "how's" and "why's" of this. I thought like you did until I built this enclosure and I think the key here here is using car speakers. These are 3 way speakers and the main driver is only dealing with freq's up to 2kHz (2.5 max), the higher freq's are directed to the tweeters in front of the main driver ...in free air. Hornresp software shows I have "amplified" the performance from about 120 Hz thru to about 1800 Hz which in real terms equates to excellent clarity. The bit I found hardest to get my head around was why the Bass response's were not being unloaded and it just comes down to the cross sectional throat area and shape of the horn presenting too much resistance to sound waves below 110 Hz and this is demonstrated by the port velocity blowing out the candles

I am wanting to do some time lapse photography of the next unit I build, but other things have consumed my attention. Because of the odd angles involved with the horn I use a full scale plan (publisher) to mark the slightly oversize base with the position of every piece, starting with the outer vertical pieces glue and clamp each piece individually, fine tune the horn because it may not be right at the top then put the slightly oversize top on, Trim, sand, and paint, add components. As soon as I do the next one a video will be posted, Cheers and thank you for your interest

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aobJkKWKgdadZtE - Run like Hell - Pink Floyd

steve clancy Thanks man ;)

darude- sandstorm

you are just not getting it ! the horn works perfectly with or without the 60 hz port because the port has minimal resistance at 60hz and maximum resistance at around 90 hz and above. ie at freq's above the port resonance the port is not there, like the hole and tube were never put in because the resistance offered by the port at those freqs is too great and therefore the easier way to exit is via the horn. Likewise with the horn, the resistance to 60hz is to great but the port offers low resistance (a horn that caters for 60hz would be enormous). everything is a compromise with audio, for a single driver this works really well

So you're telling me that the horn works at frequencies below 60Hz despite the 60Hz port that you added to the enclosure?

thingsdemystified No - the throat, length, and opening of the horn determine its lowest operating frequency, in this case around 100hz and up. Below 100hz the horn offers high resistance - approaching a sealed enclosure but not quite. The volume of air directly behind the driver is not enough cope with low frequency (below 90hz) transistions and without the port would cause distortion by not allowing the cone to move freely. It is all about efficiency and this could be considered a 2.4 system, 2 active drivers and 4 passive drivers

So what frequencies come out of the horn mouth itself?

thingsdemystified I have not measured it but I would guess anything from 100hz to 1500hz maybe a little more

You are right as long as The box is correct. Car stereo speakers , require really large boxes if you want to port them . They were designed to go in the rear deck of a car and use the trunk as a box .