The reason why your heater box area had rusted out is probably due to the rubber funnel that MG fitted to the base of the chamber below the chrome grill forward of the windscreen (behind the heater unit). The rubber funnel was there to drain the rain, but it clogged up in time with debris, dirt, leaves etc blocking the drainage, causing rust and in some cases flooding in the car. This flooding issue due to a blocked drain funnel affected me in the 1980s in my 67 GT in a heavy rain storm. When I investigated I found the drainage funnel was totally blocked with muck. I simply cut off the bottom of the rubber drainage funnel (allowing more free drainage) and cleaned out the debris. Problem solved. I've since bought back this very same GT after 36 years by chance in Australia - there are no issues (with the chamber) and it is still in lovely condition after all these years, testament to its 4 owners since I sold it in 1988.

She looks stunning! Well done that man. Good tip re future bonnet positioning with the two stainless steel rods in the brackets etc... but I noticed at 4:17 the front view of the car, the stainless steel strip on the leading edge of the bonnet doesn't line up with the corresponding strips on each front wing, yet the bonnet seems flush.

in 1980 when I re-shelled the MGB Roadster bodyshell with a brand new factory shell (in primer) I gave the shell a close examination and found the ''hidden'' factory stamping of the chassis number on one of the rear body rails, I made a record of exactly where is was located, I am told the factory varied the position for security reasons. Knowing exactly where the chassis number was stamped turned out to be useful, as in those days rebuilds were examined by a police vehicle inspector, who actually did check the '''hidden'' chassis number before signing off on the car.

Usual quality Steve, great progress. Looking forward to seeing further progress. Braver man than I taking on the gearbox, I just remember this job being really fiddly.

My 1967 Mini Traveller sends her best wishes

Thanks for the video. Very helpful and educational.

Please watch this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o5yQfaGLjqqLq68si=V3qj2IHQEqNS-1PH

Awesome work Steve

I found that getting the socket out afterwards was the difficult bit. I put a bolt inside the socket pushed the rubber on by hand and then pulled on the bolt to get the socket out. It wasn’t easy but doable on your back with the car jacked up & the axle on the car.

Well Steve when it comes to bodywork you are a better man than I. I would have been reduced to tears. Brings back so many memories of working on Minis back in my youth, nothing has changed. I know it will look brilliant when it’s finished. Looking forward to the next episode. Great vid.

Since I watched Pt 3 first some of your thoughts in this Pt 1 have proven to be less favourable 😊

Some one did the old "cave and pave"

Loving your series Steve. Motivating me to crack on with my MGB project (in the UK).

Well Steve you certainly have got your work "cut out" for you, wishing you the very best of luck with that little lot. On my old MG I had in the UK we leaded up small holes in the wings similar to what you have, not sure about leading 40 off years on. The boot area definitely looks challenging. Bodywork is not my forte I tend to "farm that out", I'm more biased towards the mechanical stuff. That dipping is certainly quicker and a lot less dusty than a wire brush :).

This looks like quite the project.. I look forward to the job you will do. Your high standards and that body shell will be a really nice combination

Good grief you certainly picked a roughy....Next you be onto a WW2 fighter lost for 80 years in a swap!

Well done Sir,Fantastic Restoration, one of the best I've seen learned a lot, enjoy and be safe 👏 👏

The side marker/indicator lamps are on backwards!

Good on ya Steve, good progress as usual. You definitely are next level, wish I had a dipping facility near me looks like the way to go. As long as you keep going like you are I have something to aspire to. All the very best for Christmas and the New Year. Catch you in the new year no doubt...........

Great progress Steve... i've been hoping for an update mate!

Hi Steve ..is there any chance I can have a copy of your brilliant new MGB wiring diagram you made...Im also trying to make up the fuse panel you did too and would love to know what goes where. Thanks

I am in the process of restoring a 1965 roadster, so I have just completed watching your entire series. I want to thank for sharing and tell you that your work is really splendid. I will shamelessly steal ideas from you but I'll always credit you! Thanks again. Kirby from the USA.

Awesome! Thank you for doing another great restoration! After the Mini do a Landy!

Dad owned a 62 in the 60s. My brother and I were little kids, so we could fit in the back! I have great memories of it. Love your videos and your projects! Excited to follow this one. Matt, Ohio, USA.

My first car was a 1964 Mini Cooper 997cc, disc brakes, bought in 1968 ,P plate and all, wrote it off few weeks later, next Mini was a Mk 2 Mini Cooper s 1970 model.Great little cars, should have kept it

Nice - another rebuild to follow. You know if you get past 4 cars, you become a hoarder, LOL.

So here you go again, good on ya Steve. Yeap my first car was a mini, I also worked at a BMC garage for a few years, you are a braver man than I am, front end is just a bit to compact for me. Check out Project Binky for a few ideas. Good luck and I’ll be following your progress with interest.

Steve - such a great sequel project! I've owned several minis and currently an MGB so i'm right there with you mate, step by step. Keep the updates coming - i'm sure your Cooper will be amazing.

I just requested to be part of your facebook group. Redoing 72(ish) B and have no experience with wiring and it is giving me fits. So looking forward to your videos. You cannot get too detailed for the like of me.

Amazing restoration. Really impress by the quality . Question: how many hours per week (+/-) during this last 2 years did you spend on this resto to achive this impresive result ?

Well done Steve, great effort, pity about the head, however these things happen as I'm finding out myself. We've got a similar cafe spot near us in a place called Jarrahdale, thankfully its on top of "The Scarp" so if anything happens whilst we're there I can near enough roll home, bit of comfort in that, however would obviously prefer to drive home :). Are you going to stick with MG as the next project or are you going to try something else? I'm assuming you're not going to sell your MG after all the effort you've put in.

What a great looking car! Fantastic color

do u really want 666 ?

Congrats Steve! thanks for the updates along the way, i've followed your progress with admiration for your attention to detail and creativity. You have a beauty of a B as a result.

Well done on a great rebuild. I've been following with interest from Dorset in the UK and my much less pristine BGT. Bad luck with the head, but I'm sure you'll get it sorted with great skill and panache. Happy MG motoring!

looking good / mgb never finished always something to do / great car

Great job 🇬🇧👍

Yay Steve - She's on the road and looking bloody lovely mate! Well done on a great project... my MGB rebuild took six years, you are a genius.

Good luck with the test, sure it will fly through it Steve.

Great Restoration

Excellent !

Great car. Great job! 👍

Well we seem to be following each other Steve, great job, I'll have to go and check my brake lines now, pretty sure they are right but you have certainly started me thinking. I used drill bits in the bonnet hinges, same principle as you have used. Certainly looks the part and it's great to see you have personalised the car as you wanted it, just little subtle things that are really tasteful. My fuel tank arrived yesterday so that should go in next week and then heading for the big start up. Good luck going over the pits. Gas struts if you could remember, cheers.

Viewing your videos I have learnt an awful lot about the task of rebuilding an MGB. I am in possession of an original 64 which I was planning to keep as close as possible to being what I call Mr Original. Your resto is so tempting to to a total upgrade instead. Now I realise that I can't get it 100% but getting it close is still my aim but I have to admit that since I want to drive it whenever I want I will have to include some more modern inclusions. Seats are my problem which I can't find a answer for so I will probably end up breaking my own rules. I imagine having two sets. One set for originality and the other for general driving safety. I'm surprised that you didn't include a full width roll bar in yours. You might think that our projects are worlds apart but thanks to you I feel that my restoration will be my second as yours feels like my first. Thanks for recording your rebuild and I'm sure your little "Rod" will serve you well. I like all that you have chosen for it 'cept for the headlights but then again it is what I call a Rod.. Congratulations on it's completion & safe driving!

What a beauty. Better than new. Well done!!!

Really looking nice. Not surprised on the brake line issue. It seems that Moss, as great as they are, sometimes have quality problems with their suppliers (i.e., going with cheapest supplier) and parts have minor fit-up issues. I remember helping a friend of mine refit new windshield glass on his MGTD and we broke 3 windscreens trying to get them to fit. To Moss' credit, they provided replacement screens each time. Finally figured out that the screen supplier had slightly cut the glass wrong at the cut-out where the brackets went to tie the top windshield bar to the side brackets and this was allowing the bracket to put pressure on the glass as you tightened everything up and, BAM, glass cracked. Contacted Moss and gave them a detailed report on the issue, they contacted the supplier, had new windscreens cut, and problem fixed. Also surprised that you have such a large amount of negative camber on your front suspension. I run the longer lower arms, with lowered suspension, and only have about 3 degrees of negative camber. My guess is something is not right with the suspension set-up and it might be beneficial to go through a complete measurement cycle and compare to factory specifications. The longer lower arms are only supposed to provide 2 to 3 degrees of negative camber and your 5 to 10 degrees is way off. Also, if you are using polyurethane bushings, check to make sure they are correct and have not deteriorated. I used a well known name brand set of poly bushings (from Moss) in my rebuild and was surprised after five years to find the front bushings had totally deteriorated and the front suspension was basically floating inside the suspension links. Pretty disheartening considering the cost of the bushings. Replaced with a new set of Superperformance bushings and so far they are holding up. Lastly, I saw you had the spare tire mounted in your trunk. I do not carry one as there is no way I am going to try to change out the tire on the roadside for a lowered suspension car. I have a premium AAA subscription with extended towing distance for just in case. You free up a lot of space in the trunk by removing the tire and also remove about 25 to 30 pounds of weight. Something to think about.

Another trick for aligning the bonnet is to buy 2 of the lower rubber support blocks on the wing and place them towards the rear of the bonnet. Works great for the alignment on my GT.

Its a puck for jacking up the front suspension - locks into the hole on the lower arm and onto the top of my jack...

Bung

Bump stop