Bought this plane secondhand. Builder had installed the sv100 twin. The elevator and rudder had 1/8” gaps at hinge lines. Didn’t think much about it, but when I opened it up full throttle for a high speed pass down the runway I saw the one half of the elevator fluttering. I cut the power and tried to bank around for emergency landing, but to no avail. Plane went in hard. Total loss. I did some research and found this airframe was designed for an 80cc engine. Had I cut off and rehinged the tail surfaces, the plane probably could have withstood the 100cc engine. Live and learn. I don’t recall what servos on that plane. As with any large model, choose high torque 230 0z or more, and metal gear type.

@@peterschryver Peter....Sorry to hear about the demise of the XX.....thanks for the information. Going to purchase one that is complete with a BME 110 twin but not sure of the servos so your recommendation is most appreciated. I'll also make sure that the surfaces have minimum hinge line opening.

@@WildHBill I would select high torque 230oz or more, metal gear design. Several companies make them such as hitech, or spektrum.

I moved into a new place shortly after that video. Unfortunately due to some health issues and work demands I put my model airplane hobby on a hold for the past 2.5 years. I look forward to one day finishing that plane though. I know this engine flies the 1/3 scale stearman just fine, as seen in other KZbin videos.

Yes, such a sweet sounding engine.

Thanks Timothy!

If you invest in one of these engines for yourself, I recommend you follow the manufacturers instructions.

@@peterschryver well, the manual says Wd40, but I find it weird.

Since you should put a drop of lubricant at those contact points at beginning of each days flying session, I would imagine just about any light lubricant would be sufficient. I prefer to to use a small manual oiler to avoid spraying excess lube all over the other surrounding engine parts that may cause it to bake on due to heat, and attract dust and dirt.

@@peterschryver awesome.. thank you so much

I used a CH Ignitions gas conversion kit for the Saito 300. The kit contains an twin cylinder ignition module, two 1/4x32 spark plugs that thread right into, and replace the glow plugs, and gas carburetor. They are on Adrian’s website CHIgnitions.com. If you do this yourself, you will need to purchase his timing kit as well, which can be used for converting other engines you may have or acquire in the future. Adrian has several videos on KZbin showing step by step how to time the engines. You can contact him for further instructions if needed.

@@peterschryver thank you! Just started the break in on mine today. Yours sounds unreal..

John Wilson, no matter what pump you use, you should visually see fuel in the line at the carb with no bubbles. Close your choke and make sure it seals well. I tweaked and bent my choke arm slightly to get a perfect fit. I also made a locking choke rod assembly (see previous video link) to make it easier to hold it closed while turning the prop about 12 times to prime all cylinders. Switch ignition on after priming, and apply electric starter to fire cold engine. Also double check factory recommended initial setting for low speed idle screw by counting the turns in to close, and then turning back out to proper setting. Might as well double check the factory high speed needle while your at it. I used a Life 2 cell 6.6v 2200mah for ignition battery. You can also use a Lipo 2cell 7.4v 2200mah. It doesn’t matter what the mah capacity is, just determines how many minutes it will supply power to operate the ignition. I usually only see 300 to 400mah used up for 40min of engine operation. If engine won’t start, double check spark plugs for fouling, gap, and check all valve lash adjustment on each cylinder. Hope one of these suggestions helps you start your engine easier!

Sir, you are a Saint! I needed a different perspective to my steps to hopefully correct them. I am very rural and don’t have a “sounding board” to bounce ideas off of ‘cept Abby my English Bulldog. I can tell you, what she has offered versus what you’ve provided I can not thank you enough. I’ll do a detailed recheck and once fired report back the results (and possibly the stumbling block that’s been hanging me up)

@@johnwilson5653 How did it go?

Sephia Aeromodeller Sail wood 2 blade 28x12 Max RPM 5400.

Sephia Aeromodeller Sail wood 2 blade 28x12 max RPM 5400

@@peterschryver for what plane is this? I bought for cy model la7 96"

Sephia Aeromodeller I will use mine for a 1/3 scale Stearman Biplane.

1976axerhand The starter has a servo type lead that you can add an extension wire to, and plugs into a receiver channel to which you assign a switch. I used the momentary bind black push button. You then connect a 3cell Lipo to power the 12vdc electric starter motor.

1976axerhand My flying location is approximately 420ft above sea level. The plane weighs 18lbs, prop is a Beila wood 20x10 2blade.

Yeah, I should look into a wireless microphone to wear for videos like this. Our smart phone speakers have a very limited frequency range when it comes to reproducing sound, so if you listen to this through a Bluetooth remote speaker it sounds much better.

Marcus Forsell Good question! Your right, the Saito 300 mounting holes do interfere with the fire wall stringers. I used the existing holes with "T nuts" that were preinstalled for the evolution engine and mounted an aluminum plate on 1/4" standoffs to the firewall. I then mounted the Saito 300 to this aluminum plate, so now the bolts holding the engine do not have to go into the plywood firewall. Bolting on a sub plate allows you to attach it to the fire wall any place you want, and with standoffs or spacers, lets you adjust how far forward you can move the engine to reach the front of the cowl. Hope this explanation is clear enough.

@@peterschryver Peter, Did like you advised and worked like a dream. Have now maidened the plane and it is really incredible with what ease the engine makes it fly! Good idea there. Although slight mishap on landing. The undercarriage is really to soft. Need another spring solution. Cheers and than you for your inspiration.

Marcus Forsell I picked up a pack of assorted bungee cords, and used the thin ones to cut and crimp together making loops that wrap around each side of the articulated landing gear. This gave the gear strength to support the plane better on landings.

Pablo Pérez I had to open up the cowl at the cylinder heads because the Saito 300 twin would not fit inside. Another benefit is cooling and the ability to change spark pugs without removing the cowl. I chose this more powerful engine because it sounds great, and the extra power helped carry the 5lb floats when I put it on the water.

Greg Hope This is not my jet, I only video taped my friend flying it. I believe the turbine is a jetcat 36lb thrust. The plane weighs 26lbs dry. Scott is very happy with it so far.

Nice Jet ordered mine back in August still waiting for it same paint scheme

Can you pass me the configuration of your plane, please? servos , cg, etc etc