Dont buy chinese crap

These are the numbers I’m trying to reach on my 96 I have a set of heads to put on mine just haven’t done so yet. What else was done to your car? Thought about finding a set of cams too but I know I’m limited due to piston to valve clearances.. I have a list of some that may work but haven’t looked much into them.

😍😍

being an engineer i couldn’t help but do this to the little garrett GT17 on my genset and cut correctly it screams like the big garrett on my semi and my pickup 😁

I make the same 'surge' noise when I'm about to 'boost' too 😅

So all I need to achieve this is the wot box?

I have 2001 Gt but I’m scared to put the MSD on, got it as a gift,is it safe to put it on ? Or might break something?

2v motors can hit a little over 400 wheel NA just buy using the NPI block with the PI head, stage 3 cams, long tubes, and a good dyno tune

Loosen the top of the hose and see if fluid comes out. If it does the master cylinder is working. Loosing the bottom of the hose from the caliper and see if fluid comes out. If it does its the caliper that has the problem . If no fluid its the rubber line.

There are several things wrong with this video. 1) the controller IS still available. 2) this controller is also wireless, you just need to replace the 12v battery inside, 3) it they won’t go down there is probably a bad relay or two in the receiver, 4) a new receiver is a couple hundred bucks, I highly recommend getting things working. Having to flip the cord around all the time could be dangerous.

I won't be in by no cop cams either

I'm 66 years old and the only time I had one fail during break in was my fault and it was not a comp I have heard people blame it on the lifters or the cam but 99% of the time its human error at least 45 years of building engines I can say I had one wipe out because I didn't take out the inner spring on a 560 lift cam in the last 3 months I broke in 3 cams no problem if you wipe out a roller it was your fault there is no zinc or phosphorus in off the shelf oil that is needed for sure in a flat tappet cam break in good luck hope you get it back on the road but that is part of hot rodding at least you didn't put a rod thru the block and ruin everything

I think there's a cam scam going on. People without Scruples buy the Comp Cams and lifters. They take the Comp Cam and lifters out of the box and replace them with cheap Chinese cams and lifters. They return the Chinese cams as if they are Comp Cams and keep the money. I can't believe Comp Cams is making such crappy cams and lifters. Something's up. Something's going on behind the scenes. Comp Cams used to be good stuff. So what's really going on?

Comp cams buys lifters, push rods and springs from china where the unpaid political prisoners did not inspect them for fear of early execution or having their internal organs removed while still alive. Comp does not inspect those cheap worthless prisoner made lifters, springs and push rods and puts them in their white boxes for resale, thats comp.

Yikes. I got a towing cam from them. So far so good

Greetings , are these jacks whether proof( can they be permanently mounted)? Also please can you walk/live inside camper when it is free-standing? Kind regards, Ģ♡Đ bless

Only by lifters made by delphi. Comp cams are selling delphi.

Locked up needle bearing on lifter?

Learn how to properly install dumb ass

Was that with or without headers and just pi swap? Or injectors and other parts as well as fuel pump and what?

omg so sorry this happened i feel ill now for you.

That just plain sucks. But every brand of cam is going to have a bad story, i wouldn’t write off comp cams completely

Wow what a piece of garbage

recent tests have shown breakin should be 10 min run time, 10 min cool down, 10 min run, 10 min cool down, and a 3rd 10 min run time

when ford went roller lifter, they changed the block slightly for taller lifter guides because of the extra height. I wonder if this was a flat tappet block and he threw in roller lifters and something bad happened. why did the bearings get ruined?

Lot to be said for a plain flat tappet cam...fewer parts to go bad.

Thank you very helpful.

There are a lot better camshafts out there in Comp Cam I've had issues with them and I know what I'm doing

Metallurgical flaw in the tie bar. Caused by impurities in the metal that were not visible to the inspector or you. Happens all the time with different applications. Suck it up buttercup.

Looks like a link-bar failure not a cam failure... just sayin... I still buy Com Cams..... building two more engines.

I know a bunch of Chevy guys they run comp stuff and had a lot of problems with their lifters not the camshafts just the lifters they switched to cry or lifters kept the comp cams and never had a problem it seems to be in the lifters don't know why I know I run cry or lifters on my Mopar for the same reason unless you want to get real expensive and buy iski stuff they make really nice stuff they do but you pay for it

You don't think the valve spring tension had anything to do with it, do you? Lol

Eather a flat tappet or roller it dosent matter a v6 v8 or a v twin cam companies have dropped the ball WTF to many cam companies the qc part what's the problem has this what cam companies have come to junk WTF cam companies are you they selling junk because of the oil products selling oil without zddp what some interesting questions.

Flat tappet from Comp cams just ate a lifter from the kit everything came in…10/22 …..not installer error.

its a Ford, thats why lol....sorry, couldn't resist

builder issue, NOT comp Cams...and if it is Comp Cam, then its a rare issue, just like with ANYTHING ELSE. Nothing is going to be exactly perfect every single time. but sounds like a builder issue, not the cam maker

Mine came with a lil tool for that problem lock nut

This been happening with few builds at our machine shop with tappet cams like wasnt hardened . Make wondering something wasnt put together right or if zink additive wasnt used. In first startup making cam fail

🤨 nah it’s more like assembly issue

the bearings dont look good was there oil contamination the pitting is odd . what additives where in for the break in time

i had 2 comp cams wipe a lobe then i herd there was a bad batch of cams but who would admit to it just be ready for failures hope for the best

Update? How are you liking them?

Thanks for the heads up on Comp cams.

Soak the lifters in oil pump them up with a push rod in a drill press submerged in a can of oil. Follow break in procedure. The retrofit roller set ups from comp are ok but heavy springs and heavy rockers may be too much esp 1.6 ratios Truth is many years ago they did a big dyno run and the power difference was not as much as one would expect compared to flat tappet

What was your oil pressure like? With a wiped out lifter bore your oil pressure musta plummeted, thus giving you your first indication that something was wrong. I watch my oil pressure RELIGIOUSLY with cruising and thrashing my stroker 347. Got a hydraulic flat tappet comp cam in mine for years w/o any issues. Will go with a solid roller too eventually. Sucks though man, sorry

It's a very unfortunate thing when a cam gets wasted but unfortunately 99.9% of the time it IS the fault of the builder. There are SO MANY factors that can cause it to happen and as men with pride we tend to find something else , or someone else to blame it on and that's where the cam manufacturers become the whipping post. Something has to go really wrong to tear up a roller cam but there are 1000 videos on you tube of people pulling smoked roller lifters out of engines from all ethnicities. From the looks of your pics you had a lifter bore issue but it's hard to determine once that much damage has occurred. 9 out of 10 times a destroyed roller cam or lifter happened because of a problem with the lifter. Lifter bore and lifter wheel alignment and a wheel that doesn't roll perfectly smooth and precise. One little microscopic piece of foreign matter gets in those needle bearings and it's all over! A lot of guys building LS engines are buying lifter trays on eBay that allow the lifters to turn side to side in the trays allowing the wheel to go WAY out of alignment with the lobe and they start skidding and flat spotting instantly. All to save $20 on lifter buckets! I watched a guy pull 16 smoked lifters out of a brand new LS last night and he was blaming comp cams too and he has all top shelf parts in his engine but he bought his lifter trays on eBay! A lot of guys don't understand just how important those trays are. You're better off using your original Delco trays out of a 300,000 mile engine than putting those paper thin junk eBay trays in! And yes, Morrel and johnson lifters are the best available and you will pay dearly for them but look at what happens when you short cut on roller lifters. They are what makes or breaks your roller build. When assembling you've got to put your lifters in with some 10w30 and work them up n down A BUNCH and feel those bores for smoothness and make sure if your block just came from the machine shop that you wash and blow the living PISS out of the oil galleys or your pushing machining shavings right into your lifter bores at first startup and binding the lifters and your doomed from the start

They've started making roller lifters with bushings in them now instead of needle bearings so That way you don't contaminate your engine with a needle bearings if one of them were to fail. It's been around for a long time but the Cam and left her companies are really starting to push them now because needle bearings in your oil pan is such a typical problem with lifter failure

They never could make a good roller lifter ! Crower and Isky all the way!

Your first problem is it's a Ford!!!! Second problem is the engine builder!!!! It's not the parts!!!

Did you add zinc