You just needs the power supply. You can use the headphone output for sound, if you don't have an amp. FYI I'm now on this channel for more synth related content studio.kzbin.info/door/A80fOGSlVeUjbmbU1K2Zvw

Thanks, it will just reset to the original sounds.

I don't have any spares, unfortunately. If it's a bank of 8, the problem is most likely a broken track on the board. This can be fixed with a little bridge wire, once you find out which one is broken. Try a continuity test on the tracks.

@@fixingsynths8364 Thanks! I'll take a meter and start checking this weekend!

is it a JV30 pitch bend? Did you do the recalibration?

@@fixingsynths8364 Hi friend! Enter test mode, as I explained before, it tells me bend error, I followed the instructions in the service manual, but the truth was, it drove me crazy, I don't know what to do and I can't find a technician where I live that is about these relics, and if it's a roland jv 30

@@rubenquiroga8268 without seeing the problem, there isn't much that can be done. You could sell it on ebay as faulty or just use it with out the pitch bend I guess.

my guess would be that you don't have it connected correctly but that's just a guess.

@@fixingsynths8364 I am very grateful to you, of all those who asked me completely ignored lol ... I would like to be able to contact you via mail or whats app, to show you my problem, since I see that you are someone who really knows, and you are not an improvised one, the chips are the original ones of the pitch and the one that goes to the plate, there is no way to be badly connected, even more so that after the hit with the original pitch that always worked well, he started to make this mistake, the funniest is that the modulation is perfect! only the bender when I move, it goes out of tune. I thank you very much friend .. and I hope I can get in touch with you to send you photos and videos of my synth ... then everything is perfect .... thank you very much !!

glad it helped

glad it helped.

Great to hear!

Hi, try googling "soldering and desoldering techniques". Thanks.

Glad it helped.

Glad to know it helps. Good luck fixing your synth.

You prolly dont give a shit but does someone know of a method to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost the password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me

@Ezequiel Russell instablaster ;)

@Lewis Cory Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.

HI I don't know but I won't be selling parts only the whole synth. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/352940932118

Hi, sorry I don't do professional repairs. You could try joining this group and see if anyone can help. facebook.com/groups/vintagesynthrepair/

Sounds like it's not booting. Definitely not just the display. It could be a simple fix, but it's hard to know where to start if nothing is happening. Please don't throw it away! I'm sure someone can fix it or use it for parts. It's classic instrument now so going to dump shouldn't be an option IMHO.

what you need is tact switches with 2 leads. 6x6mm by 5mm high.

Factory reset is at the end of part 4. Hope that fixes it.

Glad that saw your comment before ripping off my D50! Cheers

Thats works for me. Thanks

try this guy www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roland-JV-30-JV-35-JV-50-Replacement-Key/321010680658?hash=item4abdba4352:m:m1cyJdMRw5i6Cx_V9QNTvoQ

Could be anything in the audio path. Can you hear anything at all when you move the volume fader? like crackle, noise etc.

No nothing at all when I move the fader, the only thing I hear when the jack is plugged in is a constant low frequency humming sound.. this is wether the volume fader is up or down.

You'll need to get someone with electronics knowledge to check it out or sell it to someone to fix up.

A bit late of an answer, but I had the same problem and simply reinitializing it fixed it. Press 'chorus'+'reverb' (buttons above 'initialize', then press button 'value UP'. Hope this helps!

If you are not the original owner, it's possible that an internal setting has been changed. I forgot where it is or how to access it, but there is a setting that allows you to disconnect the keys from communicating with the internal sound module. The reason for that I believe is so that you can hook up an EXternal sound module. Which is exactly what I'm trying to do. The whole reason I'm at this video is because I thought it might help me answer that. I think I accidently discovered that setting years ago but I cant remember what I did to get there

Should have a second video soon. No plot spoilers at this stage. ;-)

No problem, initially I thought the issue was more likely to be system related because I couldn't believe that so switches would go. Now I know different. I also be looking to replace the whole lot when I get some more switches delivered.

Yes I can't believe they put such low quality switches in, especially on a name brand product. The switches have never gone on my old toy keyboards!

@@fixingsynths8364 would EVQ-PAE05R be an appropriate replacement?

@@MatthewPherigo no it's not those. I'll see if I can find them.

EVQ11G05R these look right and i've checked the dimensions.. Also try ebay, found these which are super cheap : www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-Pcs-6x6x5mm-Momentary-Tactile-Tact-Push-Button-Switch-2-Pin-DIP-Through-Ho-JV/323382359916?epid=1769281599&hash=item4b4b17376c:g:LtcAAOSwKdZbZr7u:rk:33:pf:0

sonicperformance thanks for the tip. I'll give that a go next time.

So, you say that at bottom of aftertouch there are two metal strips? Can I just solder to them wires? I was dumb enough to burn down strip ending with soldering iron ;( ;( ;( :D

No i don't think so. From what I've seen, only the carbon side makes contact. I'm not sure in what way the metal strips function but as sonicperformance points out, there is more to be done to get a decent performance. I have another 2 D50s to work on, so will be looking into that a bit more soon.

Can confirm, did this to my D-50 last night and I can now reach 127 on the aftertouch scale in test mode (previously was only able to get about 40). I didn't see any copper or rubber strips though. The bottom layer of my D-50s ribbon is composed of two parallel carbon tracks and the top layer seemed to be some type of plastic. I'm not entirely sure what it is, but it's white and conductive. Gently cleaning the carbon tracks with isopropyl alcohol resulted in some obvious "stuff" (not sure if it's dirt, oxidation or just actual carbon) coming off. Cleaning the white strip didn't seem to do much of anything since the imprints left by the carbon track could still be seen. However, when I put everything back together, it works! I have seen repair methods that sprinkle graphite powder on to the carbon tracks, but I think I'll wait and see how long the cleaning alone gives the aftertouch strip new life.

@@daniellewis5302 Glad to hear that worked for you, the fix I was talking about is when the after-touch needs a lot of pressure to reach 127. The copper and rubber strips run the full length on the keyboard under the felt materiel. But yes, cleaning the Printed Wire board the connects the keyboard to the Volume PCB will benefit from a clean.