i have a cameo 4 this is for thin modellers tape

Yeah, I found it to be an indispensable tool now. I mostly use it for cutting masking tape. Agree that finding the center point is hard. Sometimes I don't know where it will cut and ended up with an incomplete circle. LOL.

@@cakeplagunplaplasticmodell8496 Yeah, the more expensive model has a center finder accessory (sold separately) - I couldn't really justify the price for that at the time... so I guess I am better off wasting masking tape, not that I use it super often - but still. :D Been thinking to buy hole punches instead, at least for styrene purposes. But I don't really need to make circles all that often...

Technically, it should. But it also depends on the surface you are applying on to. For example, if you have a well primed surface, I don't see why it can't.

Sorry for the late reply. I got mine from Aliexpress. If you search Dspiae MT-EC you should get a few selling it.

It is funny my instruction doesn't have anything about that. But perhaps I should give it a try and see if it makes a different. Cheers.

@@cakeplagunplaplasticmodell8496 Also, there's a small round arrow near the black handle in the center which changes blade pressure. It's also pointing counterclockwise.

The generic does the job too.

Yeah, it is very useful tool. Especially when masking track wheels for a tank. The price might put people off. Took me long enough to fund raise for the purchase. (Just kidding)

Thanks man. Glad you like it. I am in the same boat as you. Not many of my friends are into model building. In my country, the community is still very small. And it is split into 2 groups, older people into tanks and planes, while the younger one like Gundam.

Thanks for the comment. The thicker engraver will be useful for making indented area. I think people can also use a chisel, but the engraver may give a more accurate result. 😀

It depends on what paint you base paint is. If what is under the Tamiya acrylic paint is another layer of Tamiya acrylic paint, both layers will be removed. But if I have a layer of say Mr Surfacer Primer under the Tamiya acrylic paint, the oven cleaner will react and remove the Tamiya paint on top but leave the primer untouched.

Thanks for the comment. Do you paint, using the grey Sharpie, on large surface, or just doing touch up? How does the paint go in terms of leveling up?

@@cakeplagunplaplasticmodell8496 It's a very small wheel from a zip zap rc car I just want to shade 5 spokes a darker shade of grade and want something that dries smooth.

​@@MBB5658 I think one of the issue I have with marker when painting big area is the stroke marks. I feel that markers are okay with small details. Also, the Sharpie I have tested, I think the color tone isn't that vivid when compare to other model paint. If I want a pro finish, I would still go for model grade paints, and go through the process of priming, etc. Hope that make sense.

That is an awesome tip. I will give it try. Thanks.

I actually know it is is pronounced as Bay and no Be. Just unsure why it may come out as Be. Perhaps I was tongue tied a bit?

I think the gold color will likely to cover the silver, as the paint is not translucent.

Well spotted sir. It is exactly the kit. It is still a WiP for me and there was some progress I presented in my latest video. Old kit so a lot of work, but should be good looking once completed. 😁

Thanks for the comment. I actually did tests on several other parts outside of the shooting and compared the results. More or less come to the same conclusion. Perhaps my generic file happened to be not as good as yours. I am not saying that it can't polish. It actually can. It also does an excellent job at cutting down nubs. I just feel that there is some unevenness with mine. Even with my test where the Dspiae did a better job at polishing, it's result still can't match that of using sandpapers and compounds. Especially when I have a flat surface of the Dspiae (or any other nano glass file) trying to polish a curve, or a bigger surface area like in my test, it will never work.

For instance, could you just use black surfacer for your dark layer? Instead of doing an additional coat of black?

@@dr.jimeagleii4108 Sure, you can use black primer instead of priming it and adding black. And to simplify the steps, I often skip spraying the white layer and just spray my base color on top of the black. Just that you need to know the black underlay can change the tone of your base color amd make it appear darker. You may need to compensate that by using a lighter base color. For example, if your final base color is yellow, adding the white layer will make sure the yellow remain sharp and bright. If you just spray yellow on black, it may appear dull.

Thanks for the support. Yeah, I like this technique a lot too when creating shading. Once I got the handle of it, the results usually quite impressive. Quite often, I skip applying the white and just lay the top color on black, if I don't have a issue with the black affecting the final tone. Have fun with your next build.

@@cakeplagunplaplasticmodell8496 Thank you! yeah can't wait to try it out and must be admit that i am a little nervous about it haha. Just like the first time I used an airbrush :)

It was messy for me at the beginning too when I started airbrushing. Even now, I feel I am still pretty average, but still good fun though. Definitely 100x better results than hand brushing.

Sharpie is a permanent marker and can apply on fabric. In theory, it should work on leather. However, what is on top of the leather, like protective oil, or other substance that was use the prep the leather could have a effect of the final outcome.

@@cakeplagunplaplasticmodell8496 So is it visible on the black leather jacket? it is for the signature)

@@nowitzer26 Too be honest, I can't give you a 100% answer as there are far too many different type of leather jackets out there, off different make with different surface. My suggestion is get one and try it on the surface. The Sharpie pens are only $2 each. 😊

Thank you for the support.

I am sort of half way through it. Since it is an old release, far too many fitting issue. I have done the priming now. Just need to finish the paint job. 😁 Thanks for the comment. Will certainly upload a video once it is completed.

@@cakeplagunplaplasticmodell8496 I just started building this kit. Thinking of a couple of modification ie to give ball joints to the hips to enable a larger range of articulations. Very happy to find your video which is pretty recent and in English so is hoping you will follow up with a build video. Thank you in advance :)

@@yeezeey4037 Cool. I actually didn't like the 2 canons and did a bit of mod there. Also opened the front of the little section where the antenna is. I would love to see your build too. I will work harder and hopefully can get a complete video soon. Thanks for your support.

Yeah, Bandai kits are in general very easy and fun to build, especially those made in the last decade, whether they are HG, RG or MG. I did come across a Fujimi car kit where the windscreen (clear part) won't even fit onto the car frame, leaving a huge gap. LOL. One need to be very skilled to be able to fix it. The design of Bandai kits these days are just so good, or user friendly. Some of the kits can hide the nub marks once assembled. And the details on those small Star Wars and Space Battleship Yamato kits are out of this world. Just shows how advance they are at in plastic model making.

Thank you. I still haven't finished it yet. Perhaps I will do another video once it is completed.