Thanks for the comment and feedback!

@davidtaylor6124 All lathe beds have twist, this needs to be sorted before turning. Otherwise, you'll get tapers. The cylinder and pistons will be the biggest problem. I have an old training video somewhere on the channel that will help you with this.

@RockerMark thanks! Done a few castings 😆

@@davidtaylor6124 that's the reductant. Coal dust works for copper and cast iron and bronzes. Cake flour works really well for aluminum and brass...

@RustyInventions-wz6ir thanks, was designed to be a challenge, but it turned out nice, I think.

@improviseddiy it's used extensively in specialized casting applications, normally with phenolics. I used the last of what I had when I did that casting and have found a workaround that actually is an improvement. The cores are just a linseed mix, baked.

@@graveneyshipright my pleasure...

@@jirvin4505 casting videos are tricky because I need help. But they are in the pipeline...

@modelengineeringadventures thanks... could you send me a link? Had a quick look at your channel, but I didn't see a specific video. Your work looks very neat, by the way!

Thanks! I really appreciate getting feedback from someone that knows how to work on these bikes! Then I know I did the job right! The gasket material is called Flexoid, its a common oil resistant 0.3mm paper gasket available in South Africa. I've emptied a few fuel tanks and still no leaks so looks like I got a good seal. I was thinking about your air filter and I'll drop a few pictures in my community section of how I tackled my filter. I suspect you've already solved the problem, but sometimes its nice to see how someone else solved the same issue...

​@@Lukers_tinkeringYes, I will check that out, and Thanks!

@improviseddiy actually impressive that it took me so far with no charging. I did a little under 400km that day...

I'm lucky that I can do all this work myself, so it's actually incredibly cheap. I find the parts, etc. Much cheaper than my Honda Blackbird.

Its called different things depending on where in the world you are. We call it a machine pin, check the pictures, the fasteners shop will know what it is...

С прорезью или цельный?

@@peterparkin6732 hoop dit help...

@@improviseddiy thanks, will do...

I always recommend staying with a method that works for the individual builder. Having said that; I would consider the tolerance stack up on your milling setup as well as the cutter CL relative to the valve face. The minute you take a part out of a chuck your accuracy starts to suffer. I normally check the outer bore dimension to the valve face with a vernier on the lathe as I go, but generally this dimension is not critical on our builds, and I won't re-chuck unless its considerably out. I can only speculate on the JB weld, personally I've never used it in this application. I would guess that volume change due to water absorption will be a greater issue. I suggest the following. Machining a test button (blind hole into the same material-fill with JB weld), skim the end and check that a strait edge passes over. Boil in water with a little steam oil and check with a straight edge. If you do this a couple of times with no issues then it should be ok.

@@Lukers_tinkering Thanks for your very helpful reply. If I need to fill an inclusion in a cylinder I'll try the test you suggest before committing it to the job. I'm just thinking ahead as I have some cylinder castings that I haven't tackled yet.

Thanks!

@timrichards3359 lovely comment! My videos are more for the home workshop with smaller equipment, though.... the training I give for industry is different.

Thanks, I'm glad its helpful.

Thanks! A little different on small aspects...

Thanks for the comment. I have two passions the one being bikes and the other making these types of models. I've made a few things for my Harley using these techniques!