would it be good to add a brush at the end of the pipe so it can coat your chain evenly?

I use black Kiwi polish or Cordovan

Luker, I have watched a few of your YT videos, so well explained, but you get my SUB for this one, even from a "Kiwi" Lekker.

I only get chatter when facing on my chinese lathe. Shortening the tool overhang and making sure all slides are free from shake sometomes gives a fair cut but some of the problem I think comes from the speed control that pulses the drive motor and adds different vibration characteristics. I have used really old worn out lathes with smooth drive belts and obtained very neat and smooth facing despite all the wear on the machines.

Perfect example with proving of chatter point according to theory portion also.🎉

A bit dramatic dont ya think.

On my 9 inch south bend I eliminated the chatter by using a 3 phase motor and an inverter from Amazon. Turns out the single phase motor which hummed like a washing machine was making vibrations in the whole lathe. Also by using the inverter It's possible to vary the rpms with the turn of a knob.

Great stuff, but dampening is when you wet something down. Damping is when you reduce vibrations...

Great video, filled in a lot of gaps in my knowledge. Fire Queen is an amazing thing- good to see her at Aberystwyth at the moment, too! Thanks for such an informative video.

If you are machining the OD of a hollow job and it starts singing , you stuff the ID with a rag and the harmonics stop

Excellent video, well done.

Great idea! I will try it out!!

Good video and modeling. It's a hard subject to talk about. Engineering 101, everything is a spring. You're a spring, every part of the lathe is a spring, the stock is a spring, and the cutting tool is also. You are cutting a spring with another spring.

Fantastic content. Looking forward to this series in applying tig to ME stainless boiler design. Doubly so in that you are addressing many of the “gotcha’s” such as SCC, surface prep/cleaning, alloy selection, filler rod material, thermal expansion…etc. Thank you!

Thanks, well done.

Very informative. Thank you.

👍👍

Why don't we use a semi-circular choke? The contacts are often copper and may have been made for this purpose

Im hashem from yemen , isee very well thank u friend❤

Thanks for the hints. I spent a lot of time in a machine shop as a welder and noticed the copper underneath the tool but never thought anythinv other than it being a shim. Now I know the purpose for when I get my old leblond up and running again. 👍

Excellent video…thank you..

Great series mate! I'm standing, as a beginner to boilermaking, exactly at the point on how to do it and what I should keep in mind. Keep up the great work! Thank you very much!

You should get a yourself a dual follow meter so You can also have shielding gas on the back side of the weld, stainless steel is a reactive metal. That thin black line on the back of your test piece is what is called sugaring it basically oxidized metal and in the future it will corrode there.

Lovely South African acsent!!. Learnt a lot.

You opened my eyes, thanks and it is a pleasure to listen to videos with no lousy music in the back ground !

Ahh, finally a voice of reason about stainless boilers. I have done some research myself about the subject at one point and came to the same conclusions as you. (Although i haven't done the calculations and infinite analysis) Most resistance I've encountered appears to be twofold; one is the universal gear for the new/unknown. And the second is the fear for the corrosion stainless potentially undergoes while under pressure/heat. Which in my mind is something you could monitor during an inspection. I am really interested in boiler design/building and particularly in stainless. So I'll follow this series close. What software/aids do you use for your boiler designs? Any pointers where i can find the knowledge to do the actual calculations?

thank you

I read your series of articles on stainless steel model boilers and found it informative, interesting and refreshing. I keep hearing a lot of negative views on stainless steel from the model engineer community, mostly from the point of view of corrosion stress failure I suspect. I have an interest in making a stainless-steel boiler for stationary model engines, so I look forward to your next video. I may email you with some questions after that, if you are OK with that?

Hello, I just got one of these lathes, But no change gears, I can't find them anywhere. Do you have a list of the gears that came with this and what pitch they are as in 1.25 etc. And also the shaft size for the hole in the center? Thank you for whatever information you can give me. Mark

Another useful video from the"Luker"workshop thanks (Graham)

Stunning video with a ton of very practical tips and tricks👍😁

Very useful and insightful video. To add, the same principle applies to the work piece, less stick out from the chuck for unsupported material and if longer cuts are needed to make sure the part is supported on a live center and to add a steady if possible. What I have also experienced while parting specifically was that the length of material on the back of the chuck(sticking out into the spindle) will also cause chatter if it is left too long. This means you want to not only part of as close to the chuck as possible, but at the same time, use a short as possible piece of material. In my case I was parting 22mm material while making 15mm long parts. If I rough cut my lengths of stock more than about 250mm on the saw, I suddenly had issues with chatter while parting. This would gradually go away as I'm removing new parts from the stock and as it started to get shorter. Between 250mm and 270mm was the sweetspot, anything longer and the chatter will appear. Naturally this will all be related to the thickness of the material which will be stiffer the thicker the stock is meaning that more stick out is possible.

Brilliant video. Still getting to grips with this machine and I did not understand how to engage longitudinal and cross cutting power feeds. I mistakenly used the halfnut lever 🙃🙃... believing the actual power feed lever is just a select lever. (The way it is setup on my Colchester Student) The result of this was that I believed the cross cutting feed wasn't working and on top of that, while I have installed the slowest gearset, the feed rate was still incredibly fast.

I am enjoying your videos so far but on this topic I will have to chip in here and say I completely disagree with most of what you've explained here. To start; while the Adendorff lathe is not half bad and with some tinkering can be made to provide a reasonable result, the insert tool kit is exceptionally bad and should be avoided at all cost! There are various reasons why I say this but what I must state right from the start is that while you were comparing cost to that of brand name commercial tool suppliers, If you've used any of these high end tools you will understand exactly how bad the Adendorff(Chinese) set in fact is. Before talking about quality and cost I would like to point out one of the reasons why the Adendorff kit is particularly unsuited for the small hobby lathe. The insert style used in these tools comes with a negative(neutral) rake. The benefits of these style of inserts is the fact that you have double the amount of cutting edges made possible by flipping the insert over(like you've illustrated in the video), but most importantly, the negative rake provides great support for the cutting edge allowing very heavy cuts to be made. In a machine shop environment especially when using Abom size lathes, this is a major advantage and can save a lot of time removing large amounts of material. The problem with this however is that it requires significant amounts of torque and power, something hobby machines does not have much off. For this reason positive rake tool inserts makes far more sense for the owner of smaller machines. One of the major advantages of positive rake inserts is the fact that they provide much finer finishes. So while you might save on having more cutting edges that can be used on negative rake inserts, you will need tooling for rough cutting and then tooling for finishing which is fine in the machine shop environment where costs are much easier to justify. The hobby lathe owner would prefer one tool which can be used for both roughing and fine finishes even if it comes with the price of having to do a couple of more passes to remove the same amount of material. For this a positive rake tool and insert would be the best choice and unfortunately they are harder to find in kit forms or in the low end Chinese brands. Now for comparing cost; yes you can buy the entire Adendorff kit for the price of a single Sandvic or similar high end insert style tool but you really only need 2 tools.(This excluding a tool for parting and boring bars.) Left hand tools almost never gets used and even in the odd case of needing one you will find that fitting a 4 jaw chuck and spending the bit of extra time to center your work piece after flipping it in the chuck you can still achieve the same. My point is, never waste money on left hand tools. The same goes for the centrally mounted insert tools. I use 2 tools and they are my go to tools for 95% of all my machining. For the rest I have a boring bar and parting tool. I most often use these 2 tools in combination; the first is an SSDCR 2020K 09 from Sandvic www.sandvik.coromant.com/en-us/product-details?c=SSDCR%202020K%2009&m=5751189 With this tool I have 4 cutting edges, it works great for facing and chamfering on outside edges, left and right and can also cut longitudinally if you do not need to cut to a 90deg shoulder. The next tool I use a lot is a SDJCR with DCMT inserts which is okay when it comes to facing but brilliant at longitudinal cutting and cutting into a sharp 90 deg shoulders. It also provides very fine finishes. (and in spite of it being a positive rake tool I have taken 6mm cuts with these on my 3HP Colchester Student.) Another one of the benefits of using branded cutting tools is that most suppliers of branded tools will supply single inserts while many of the cheap brands force you to buy packs of 10 or if you are lucky, packs of 5. (It is also my experience that inserts from branded and non branded tools are not very different in price.) On this note I must also mention that the Adendorff insert tools only take inserts supplied by Adendorff while all other brands use the same style and shape inserts which are compatible with each other. There are however also cheaper alternatives for the branded names like Sandvic, Iscar, Kennametal etc. which will also take the same inserts. Just a mention on the quality of these inserts; I can drive the Sandvic insert much harder than the Adendorff ones before destroying them which is ironic when one consider what I have discussed earlier in terms of the advantages of negative inserts over positive inserts. I might be stepping on some toes here but I do believe I am providing sound advice which will make a considerable difference in the quality of your machining.

Beautiful work well done

Very nice! Il try to make for my blackbird to!

7:30 isoprop alcohol. Try spraying isoprop alcohol when you machine aluminium , it works wonderfully ! Try it , it's like magic

Another way to visualize the damping effect on a vibration system is when you put your hand on the system and it eases. Obviously on something safe, like washing machine or a small motor. Since you cant put your hands on the tool, a wire of such sorts is a viable solution. Interesting to think are there tool holders in the market incorporating this method? Like adding springs and pads to soften vibration?

Subscribed, very similar to my lathe

Ha, just found your channel with your lathe as its the same one I've just bought, and lo and behold you also have a Softy the same as mine, brilliant

I was a manual lathe operator for about 15 years and turned down a lot of long pieces even longer than what was shown here. One time, a man said to add some rubber bands around the piece being turned and I was amazed that the chatter went away.

Will you be talking more about the design? With 3D printing available, thought of making one for myself with things that can be purchase off from Amazon or Aliexpress.

I'm using a small diamond disc on my Dremel tool for cutting chip breakers, and touching up faces.

I found those hi-rake inserts chip very easily as theres NO nose radius... and the biggest sin is to stop the lathe spindle rotation mid-cut, a definite insert killer... Running smaller lathes with limited HP, I prefer the versatility of hss and keep the carbide for tougher /harder materials... 😎👍☘️🍺

Thank You Sir, very helpful

Great video, Thank You for posting.

That first trigonal insert you describe as 'a left hand tool' is actually classed as a right hand cutting tip.

What you're calling a "left hand" tool at 6 minutes in, is actually a "right hand" tool. It's counterintuitive to how it looks, but I think it's because it cuts the "right hand" face of the job ? Not meant as a criticism, but I wouldn't want any beginners watching this to order up the wrong type of tool.

Is it not a right hand tip? I am learning.

I have carbide tipped lathe tools, and they work very well on my small lathe. The power from the motor is more than sufficient, but the belts will slip if the part jams and stops the chuck. The boring bar is cool, but if you had machined the end better, you could have had a screw holding the bit. I have a large triangle carbide brazed to a rod with a handle, I use for a gasket scraper. Due to the angle and only hand pressure, it does not damage the metal surface when I use it, I have used it on cast iron and aluminum with no scratching. I also bought carbide rod for making special bits, and tools.