Good question. The chair’s seat is made from a custom-engineered, post-consumer recycled mesh that blends polyester and TPU fibers.

I've read complaints that the seat gradually reclines when you sit on it. Is there a way of locking the mechanism and stop it from doing this?

@@leeroy5190 Hey, thank for the question. I hadn't heard that but went looking for comments. I didn't see that comment stand out where I went looking, but it was of course good awareness to see what the early reads on this chair have been. Mostly very positive with the odd issue. Based on this question and the other comments out there, we did try out the units we have around the office and our personal ones to see if slipping or any other issues seemed apparent. We didn't see any significant slipping in our units around here. Some settling of 1-2 cm sometimes occurs but we couldn't get slippage beyond that. I also saw comments that some felt it wasn't as comfortable as they hoped...I personally feel they are pretty darn good for the weight but understand everyone has different expectations and also body types. You could add a knot to the cord if slipping was an issue, but if that were the case, it would be a warranty issue. I'll see if I can find out more about a fix if this occurs. Based on the reviews and our experience, I think it would be very rare, but it has me wondering why some folks may experience it.

Awesome to hear! Thanks for sharing.

Awesome! The stuff sacs are a mix of hyperlite and Ultralite sacs. The rad line is in this bag - ultralitesacks.com/products/zippered-cube-ditty-bags?variant=31348134740021 I think a large one.

@@OnwardUPCampus thanks a lot!

Hey there! Thanks for the comment. Because I usually ski lenghts in the 178/185 range, in this ski I just wanted a bit shorter and nimble, specifically for being able to hop around in steep terrain. I don't use it often, but they sure are fun when I do! If I was skiing this ski more often, I would have gone with the 178.

Oh, also I'm 5'6 and about 140lbs

Glad to hear!

Hi there! Locking toes is entirely personal preference, and there are a lot of reasons not to do it. If a fall, or losing a ski could potentially be deadly, that could maybe be a time to do it. I'm not sure the plates Nikolai is using, plastic I think! So they are lighter, but maybe not as durable in the long run.

Hi there! Those are the Armada JJ UL and I did mount them at the recommended point, and they ride great! If I was doing more spinning or skiing backwards, I would maybe go closer to center.

Thanks!

I actually just have the tail loop off of an old Patagonia pack, and use the top side compression strap for a diagnol carry. The blue ice kit would work well too!

Hey Sam. When you loosen the cord completely it will extend laterally and medially on both sides of the shoe which helps center and support the crampon on the shoe. This is only needed when putting the crampon on a soft, low-top shoe. I have quite large feet (size 12) and the cord only comes up a little bit on each side of the shoe. If you had a smaller foot then maybe you would still want to shorter the cord a bit. I hope this makes sense.

Yes. You can also use the version that comes with a wire on the toe and lever on the heal. The nice thing is that whatever model you buy (wire lever or flex lock) initially, you can buy the other heal and toe parts to make compatible with other types of footwear. Thanks.

Hi Franca, The Stormstride only has chest pockets, albeit they are pretty large. Several of our crew here are using the Dual Aspect for Ski touring. It has a slightly lighter weight of fabric (but still plenty durable for ski touring), hand pockets, a longer fit and is slightly lighter.

Ah good point! Using some G3 Alpinist + glide on the big skis and escapist glide on the narrower set up.

Sorry what do you mean?

@P.K.M-Kalle the new caritool does not hold the weigh of the screws. After some time, it gets loose

Hey, thanks for the feedback. Here's some updated info. The current Patagonia R1 Techface hoody doesn't have a helmet-compatible hood BUT, they will redesign the same jacket and it will go back to having a helmet hood in Spring 2024.

Yes, you can have a soft front and lever in the back. It is key to make sure you have the string as tight as possible to ensure that it doesn't loosen too much after you install it on the boot.

Hey, great feedback thanks! I think it is probably time to shoot a new video as Patagonia has a bunch of new shells now. In the meantime did you see this video where I dive a bit more into the comparisons? kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJm2kHdqr61mndU

@@OnwardUPCampus I did after posting the comment! That was good to try to understand what sets the jackets apart! I think maybe a title change like Patagonia jackets - similarities and Patagonia jackets - differences would probably reflect the content of both videos better. Or Simply part 1 part 2. Thanks.

Hi Patricia, yes that is the most popular use.

Hmmm, what size foot do you have? If you have a smaller foot maybe try taking up some slack in the cord by looping through a couple of the notches.... Feel free to send a photo of the set up and we can review it to see if anything stands out.

Hi Daryl, The Connect Adjust is meant only for stationary connection to an anchor, not for dynamic movement. A slip or fall onto an anchor would result in a static load to the system and would put high forces on the anchors, carabiners and the body of the climber. For protection in a Via Ferrata environment please see: www.petzl.com/CA/en/Sport/Via-Ferrata

Hey there, yes PO's are less. We are talking Canadian prices here JFYI. I agree, the Pack-In is one of the best pieces Patagonia makes. Total sleeper product. Almost as light as Nano Air, with the great breathability and general feel, but more durable face so great for daily wear and some technical use as well. Thanks for the comment.

@@OnwardUPCampus apologies, I’m so American

Hi. That was the Ascentionist jkt. It is not currently in the line anymore. The best replacement would be either the Dual Aspect or the Calcite. The Dual aspect is a little more technically feature and three layer while the Calcite is more general and 2.5 layer Gore Paclite plus. While the Dual Aspect is a formula one car, the Calcite is still is a stock Ferrari 😜. In essence both are awesome.

@@OnwardUPCampus THX, is the Dual Aspect a new coming model, i could not find it actually.

@@yukoon True! With the compromised supply chain constraints this new jacket should become available around Oct 1, 2021.

Hi There, Yes, they all will handle big rain, backed by the H2No standard. All of them are breathable as well. The most important considerations with any high-end rainwear, including all of Patagonia's, is "garment care" and layering. These jackets all have a DWR (durable water repellant) finish. This DWR allows the water to "bead" and fall off the fabric limiting the time the water has to soak into the face fabric. Once the face fabric (the colourful nylon or poly outer) saturates with water the jacket will not breathe as well. The jacket won't be leaking but it may feel like it is as water condenses on the inside of the jacket. So, keeping the jacket clean is important. Once and a while you'll want to add Nikwax Techwash to keep the fabric beading. The other piece of the puzzle is the construction of the waterproof jacket. A three-layer jacket will have a fabric lining laminated on the inside. Essentially all three layers are glued together; the face/outer fabric, the H2No or Goretex membrane in the middle, and the inside liner fabric. If the jacket has a proper third layer on the inside it will feel more comfortable against the skin as the layer will help with moisture management. Some waterproof jackets are made up of 2.5 layers. These jackets are often lighter in weight as they do not have a fabric lining. Instead, some 2.5 layer jackets have some texture to keep the, otherwise plastic feeling, garment off your skin, therefore reducing the clammy feeling. The Patagonia Calcite has Gore Tex Paclite Plus which is exactly this type of jacket. Patagonia used to make a bunch of 2.5 layer models but have recently moved away from this (except for the Calcite) mainly to offer their customers a better, less clammy, experience. In general, a 3 layer jacket will also be more durable as the membrane is protected from the inside. The last consideration is what you are wearing underneath the jacket. You want to wear polyester or merino wool as these fabrics deal with moisture better than cotton. Then, if you wear a thin long sleeve top you will limit the clammy feeling that you may have under a 2.5 layer jacket. If it's cold out and you are wearing a fleece or sweater of some sort then the need for a 3 layer shell is less important as your baselayer or fleece will act as the moisture manager. Make sense? Hope this helps. Rob

Eddie, also check out this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqe0dHaNrLaiZpo

Rob, thanks for amazing explanation. It is cristal clear now!

Short answer they get the job done and for a lightweight set up are as good as it gets. Heavier boots and crampons will perform better walking or climbing on hard ice. The Leopard is meant only for snow and feel pretty sketchy on ice.... and aren't meant for it. With the way Jason describes putting these on a low cut shoe, a climber will be well set up to ascend snowy approaches to rock climbs or perhaps finish off a scramble that is otherwise a hike but has frozen snow on top. I think the ultiomate use for this crampon on shoes would be a place like the Bugaboos or Sierra's. Basically an approach crampon to technical rock climbs. I also use this one on proper mountain boots as long as I know I am not climbing any ice or mixed. The weight and portability can't be beat but they are super specialized and need to be both adjusted properly and the user needs to be conscious of what they are using them for. Hope this helps. Rob O

@@OnwardUPCampus Thanks. I just used some borrowed g10's on some approach shoes and found the back/heel basket kept digging into my ankle on uneven terrain, which is most of terrain.

I'll also add I did use your trick to loop through under the foot one more time before cinching it down

Hi there. Best to ( maybe wear gloves and some shoes for this and do it outside, not on your hardwood floor:-) lay the crampon on a hard surface, rotate it on its side and step on it to stabilize. Then take the strap( from the heal piece) and thread under the toe wire/bail. Slide to where the bail inserts into the steel frame and pull on the looped webbing. Note that you have to configure the bail so that it will pull out cleanly. The holes are oval. Does this help or should I shoot a video?

@@OnwardUPCampus the gloves would have been a good idea, hahah ai think i tried it without them and it hurted, it is really hard to pull it ( or maybe im weak) anyways i think i failed using the strap and i used some tweezers instead. but im scared that if i keep doing it like that i might make some damage. English isntn my first language to be honest, and if you could make the video on how to do it simpler than the tweezers i would really appreciate it

@@rayitaa89 So sorry for the delay here. Check out this video explaining how to remove the front bail. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHrXgmSpl8qgrqs

@@OnwardUPCampus seems like this video is missing a big part. would be cool to see how you change it, since I'm having some trouble.

Hi there, JFYI, the Dart and Lynx bars are interchangeable with the rest of the line. They do seat differently but they are tested this way by Petzl meant to be compatible.

@@OnwardUPCampus Thx for the response. Got the Lnyx and bought Irvis front parts and the fit with the Lynx bar was really bad. Maybe it will work but it does not provide the safety feeling i need with wearing crampons.

@@JumperTheHunter good feedback. I did ask the product designer at Petzl about this and he assured me they tested and confirmed compatibility. I do agree at first it wasn’t clear as to whether they were compatible. Thanks.

@@robowens1 Thanks for the fast response! Ye, i still like my Petzl Crampons but i think if the head says "no this fit is not good enough" you should not use it that way, even if its tested! It's my personal preference and while mountaineering especially on harder routes everything should fit and you should feel secure. Maybe i'll try it again and after i now know that it's tested this way i'll be happy to use it :P. Greetings

Hi There. Yes it can. There are instructions with the leopard that shows how to do this. I should shoot a video though as it isn’t super straight forward. Stand by.

Jason shot this video explaining kzbin.info/www/bejne/m56nkH58lraCrpI

Both would be fine. I believe Orizaba will be all snow and some low angle ice...Am I correct? If so, you could also go with the Vasak, or even Irvis and these would be lighter options. The Sarkan is a great quiver of one crampon if you may do a few pitches of waterfall or vertical ice but spend most of your time on snow or lower angled ice. If you both climb a lot of vertical ice and general mountaineering routes I would suggest going with a Dart, and then purchase the Irvis forefoot. The heals are the same so it is a way to have two very good and specific crampons for the price of 1.5. Hope this helps.

Using the rope and a clove hitch is the most common way to secure yourself at an anchor for sure. Some folks prefer to have a personal lanyard and this is where the Connect Adjust would come in. Personally, I use the clove hitch and rope method most of the time on the way up a climb and then use a 120cm sling girth hitched through my belay loop on the way down/rappelling as a lanyard. I use the connect adjust most commonly when climbing as a party of three, to keep things cleaner at the anchor and for reconfiguring leads with less messing around. I will also take it sometimes for routes where I know I am rappelling right back down. It is nice to have something that is so micro adjustable at times...

Hi Jesse, The skinny slings are not dangerous. I still use them as well. The wider dogbone is going to be a bit easier to both clip (more stable) and hold onto if you are grabbing draws. They are a bit heavier and bulkier. Both have slight advantages and disadvantages when compared to each other....but in reality, the differences are subtle to the overall experience.

@@OnwardUPCampus thank you for your advice! I appreciate it. I’ve loved the skinny ones. I use the thick nylon ones for my sport anchor draws when the bolts are pre-equalized, they feel really bomber. I imagine the Dyneema version must feel the same. Thanks again! Safe Climbing.

Hi Johnny, The Sarken is a great snow crampon but, compared to the Vasak, a bit better for more technical ice and mixed. It is a bit heavier than the Vasak but would transition a bit better into more vertical terrain. Rob

Hi There! Happy New Year! I weigh 175-180lbs and am 6' tall. I am a medium in all things Patagonia except for the trail running jackets (Houdini and Houdini Air. Those styles are slim fit and I go with a large to have a little extra mobility and ability to layer. Hope this helps.

@@OnwardUPCampus Happy New Year! 🙌 Yes, that helps a whole lot. Thank you for the response! Great video.

Yeah good question cause it fit really well on you 👌 Im 6´7 and 200lbs, tall but a lil skinny, do you things XL is a good pick ? I will use it in MTB and Bikepacking trip, if you have à y advice, I’ll take it 😁 Great vid 😁

@@karlkrieg858 Hey there. Thanks for watching. It is hard to say. I’m sure an XL would be a little short in the arm length and waist length but a little baggy in the torso. It may work but you will want to try on before you buy. Good luck. Would love to here what you find out.

Hey, sorry for the delay, the best trick for removing the bails is to thread the crampon strap around the wire (put on some shoes so you don't cut yourself), step on the crampon and pull upward. Make sense? I can try attaching a photo...

I agree that the ‘dynamic’ nature of any lanyard is not a huge benefit simply because we shouldn’t be messing around above an anchor without being well aware of the risk of shock loading onto the anchor. On that note, if your lanyard has some dynamic properties it will greatly reduce the load on the anchor. Example: if you take a factor 1 onto an anchor with your lanyard ( assume you are messing around above your anchor trying to get a higher piece to add to the existing anchor or pre-place the first piece for the next lead) the difference between 1cm of stretch and 2cm of stretch is equal to 1/2 the force on the anchor. Moving on, I do find it nicer on my back to have a little stretch compared to dyneema but more importantly I appreciate the micro adjust of this lanyard so that is am not bouncing around but exactly where I want to be. Regardless, I still almost always climb without any lanyard on the way up and use dyneema slings on the way down. I did do a route yesterday as a party of three and put this lanyard on to help keep things clean at the anchors with untying and re-tying in to reconfigure the ropes ( we led in blocks). I kinda liked it and think it was a good move in spite of having a ton of gear on my harness, including 2 full sets of cams, 15 runner, full set of pins/ peckers and a hammer. Rob O.

Hi there, You know, it is on the bulky end and not for everyone or application. I (Rob) know some folks that always like to have it for both sport climbing and multipitch. Personally I use it a few unique cases, such as: - Sport multipitch where I don't have a lot of gear hanging off me and am going to rappel straight back down. - When climbing in parties of three (or when guiding more than one client on a steep route) to keep thngs easy and clean at the anchor...as opposed to a bunch of clove hitches etc. - When climbing as a part yo of three and swapping leads...meaning tying in and out of ropes to reconfigure. - There are times where I don;t want the bulk on my harness but know there will be a bunch of rappels and I will carry it in my pack on the way up. So, in short, everyone has a different approach to "tethers". I usually only use one on the way down. What I do like about this is how secure it feels and how smooth it adjusts.

@@OnwardUPCampus thanks for the detailed reply!

Good question, a common one. While there are differing opinions about the best method to attach a lanyard to a harness, most experts (IE: IFMGA Mountain Guides) and the manufacturer feel that the belay loop is preferred. This is for a few reasons including that it is easier to identify and doesn't crowd the front of the harness and it doesn't constrict the tie in points (IE: reduce the rise). The main thing with the belay loop is that it should be allowed to rotate so that it wears out somewhat evenly. Having a fixed lanyard on your harnesses belay loop will restrict the rotation and, over many days of climbing, wear the belay loop out faster than if it did rotate. The take away is that having a fixed lanyard, that is never removed from the harness, is the main concern. Most manufactures, including Petzl, recommend removing a lanyard after every day to allow for this. With all this said regular inspection is critical. I've personally never had a belay loop come close to wearing out before the tie in points, that see abuse and friction from the rope consistently throughout every day.