@us-nic6121 I honestly don't remember. It was purchased at my local auto parts store.

@@MrDreamer60 Great tip! Thank you!

@jollyjohnathan9524 It looks like they might, but i can't say for sure. The top of the can looks like the great stuff pro cans.

@AdamsWrenchTherapy thank you

@@RichardBayer-gy2ey it does not. You aren't taking apart anything that is adjustable.

@@keithhammond8947 Happy to help out!

@@TheGamersHaven Glad to help!

Buy more… 🤷🏻‍♂️

@drewe4462 If you can source the gasket, and it's not too expensive, it's not a terrible option. The gasket would be easier to disassemble in the future if you needed back in there, but it will probably fail again in the future. I would choose silicone for futureproofing, but that's just me. The choice is yours.

@venska9 I went for the test drive to rule it out completely and be thorough. Plus, I got to drive the car. 😎

@aticafloorable I honestly couldn't say for sure. You might be able to wiggle it out once the other fan is out, but I can not say with 100% certainty.

@@guglegugle8075 The ball joint itself is not serviceable, as it is integrated into the upper control arm. You have to replace the entire unit. 😎

no, it should just be cold not wet or icy

@@SS-mu8vk I would start by making sure all your drain pipes are unobstructed.

@@AdamsWrenchTherapy Is there a way I could send you a couple of pictures of my unit so you can show me where I need to check? Because like I said, mine looks a little bit different than yours.

@@MaxResDefault2600 Thanks!

@@briancooper-co1wd Briggs & Stratton online store

@@tjkoch408 Happy to help!

@@nunya9367 Thank you for your feedback. I'm glad to help out!

yes, the valve is freezing over the evap core, you can feel the line coming out of the firewall, it should be freezing

You're absolutely correct. I meant to say orifice tube. The expansion valve isn't a filter, it's just the first thing to clog up when compressors go. Thanks for watching and the information!

That's a great suggestion!

Thank you!

Thank you! I'm happy the video was helpful.

tHank you @@AdamsWrenchTherapy , you did a great job!

Great question. In my opinion, it's kind of a design flaw. I usually use my backpack blower to clean it off after each use. When I store it for winter, I use my air compressor and an air gun to really get in there and clean things up.

Honestly, I've never heard of someone trying it that way. You might find it difficult to line up the shaft with the flywheel without damaging the pilot bearing. You might also have issues compressing the pressure plate evenly when resecuring it to the flywheel. Maybe give it a shot and follow up with us. Perhaps we can all learn something new!

Funny enough this is the only way I’ve done it, I never knew you could remove the gearbox without undoing the 6 bolts and removing the gearbox with the clutch and disk. Thank you for this though. Learn something new everyday i’ll try this next time!

Hahahaha. I have an exhaust hose that I sneak under the door. Glad to help you out! 🤘😎👍

Glad to help out!

Are you able to do a video or break down of how you done it.

I'm not sure why you would want it thin, but if you moved the tip of the gun quickly across the surface, you might be able to get it to apply it in a thin manner.

I normally would have, but there are so many factors that go in to it. (Who's applying and how thick, if instructions were followed correctly, temperature during application, etc.) Price is also affected on which kit you purchase, as the bigger kit you purchase, the more money you save. That being said, I got pretty decent coverage on a per can basis, probably around 18-19 board feet. The total square footage I covered was about 1,150 square feet, so at an approximate 2.5-3 inch thickness that totals about 2875-3,450 board feet. I ended up using around 170 cans to achieve my desired 3 inch thickness for a total cost of about $2,900. (About $16.88 per can on average) The quotes I received to have a professional spray it were more than three times that amount. As far as R values go, a 1" thickness will be 5-7, a 2" will be about 10-14, and 3" will be 15-21. On another note, I did decide to put in faced R-19 fiberglass over top of the spray, and ended up spray foaming and batting the metal ceiling as well, because I want my building to be as well insulated as a refrigerator. Current value of walls are probably around R40 before drywall. I'm not sure if this is what you were looking for, but I hope it helps you out. Good luck in your project!

There were no issues with reinstalling. I did add a little bit of oil before firing it back up, let it run for a while, and then double-checked the oil level.

You're welcome! Glad it helped you out. You will have to factor in overspray, especially in tighter areas. (Corners, attic spaces, etc.) I would be particular about your prep. Anything you wouldn't want "peppered" with tiny bits of foam, cover up well, or move it to another area temporarily. When you apply it, overspray doesn't seem to be that bad, but if you don't prep, you'll probably regret not doing so. Thanks for reaching out!