I'm sure it would but I don't think Chrysler or anyone that paid full price for it would want you to have it.

2 locations In Jacksonville Arkansas

Tienes la herramienta?

It is out of stock on the mopar essentials website. I just checked and the only place that has a set listed for sale is FreedomRacing.com

Grease? Only asking because if its silver or metallic in color its metal sticking to the magnetic segments of the tone wheels. i suggest wiping it off with a paper towel or shop rag. Avoid using harsh cleaners. No need for brake cleaner etc it will 99.9 percent of the time wipe off. Those tome wheels can be damaged with certain cleaners if not used properly so that's why use a rag of some sort

@@luthergrant7336thanks for replay back. Yea that was my though I’m getting a no start it died on me and won’t start back I changed every thing electrical you can think of just not the harness and when I was about to change phasers I notice the toners being junk on them I was thinking maybe it’s build up material and blocking the signals to start. Do you even think that’s possible to cause a no start

@@Andy-gw7hd I haven't ever had buildup cause any problems. A slight wonky scope signal but not any starting issues.

Ok thank you

Then won’t bank one always be on left side of oil cam on all 3.6

@@Andy-gw7hd oil cam??

@@Andy-gw7hd if you look at the engine from the back side, opposite the serpentine belt, bank 1 is on the right side. Bank 1 is passenger side on N-S engines and inside closest to the firewall on E-W engines.

It just goes to show how ignorant people can be and still open their mouths. There's a lot of very good mechanics that are called in by dealerships when they can't figure out what's wrong with a vehicle.

With time they can become loose. Just part of the wear and tear process. A result of using cheap low quality at factory

Have someone else check the timing and go from there.

Following... Did you ever get the P0018 code to stop ? Thanks

Remove your VVT solenoids and clean them with brake cleaner and lint-free rag. Then clean the hole where the VVT solenoid goes in as well as you can. Only use brake cleaner on the VVT solenoids after they're removed from the engine and don't use brake cleaner to clean the hole they go into. You can use a little bit of SeaFoam to clean the hole. If this doesn't fix it, you will have to teardown engine far enough to clean the passages between VVT solenoids and phasers. You'll also have to check phasers to make sure they're locked in place to the camshaft. The camshaft shouldn't rotate independently of the phaser when engine is not running. There's a lockpin that keeps them locked when there's no oil pressure. It' goint to be one of these 2 things. If you're the original owner, then you have to do more frequent oil changes. Most of the time this is a result of not changing your oil at recommended intervals with good quality oil and filter. Sludge builds up and it block oil flow to the VVT solenoids and phasers.

No, a gouged tone wheel would NOT cause a no start. The PCM has 3 other tone wheels and CKP sensor to determine timing.

Mopar dealer

Does that cause the car to like run rich and drive a little rough? Because I just got a p0340 and it’s acting up

@@Alialmaliki18 it certainly can cause your timing for that camshaft is bouncing back and forth

Mopar dealer is best place to buy

yes

new cam

The reason you do this is to find out if the toner wheel has become loose and shifted. If it has become loose, you will be able to rotate it by hand, so you adjust it by rotating it with your hand. Another reason you would do this is when replacing a camshaft and the new camshaft you bought doesn't come with toner wheel. That's what the tool is for. Once you set the timing by aligning the arrows on the phasers to point directly to each other, you then place the tool like he shows in the video, and align the holes in the tool to the holes on both toner wheels by sticking the pins through the tool and toner wheels. After you do that, you mark the toner wheel and the camshaft, take off the toner wheel and use an appropriate adhesive to set the tone wheel in place.

Good catch. I headed over this way after watching Ivan's struggles. Think this little piece of aluminum would have helped alot

Who knows what the heat will do to the magnetic ring.

@@marossgnvTIG welding uses localized heat, I doubt it would heat the reluctor wheel enough to damage it or it’s magnetism. The wheel would not need a full weld, just a few tack welds. What is the recommended method of repair now, replacing the camshaft?

@@gfbemc0256 TIG welding is not a good option. The tone wheel is very sensitive. Best way is to use an adhesive that's heat resistant up to 300 degrees Farenheit or higher and oil resistant.

If you have a 4 channel scope, backprobe the CMPs and CKP and connect to scope to see waveforms, then compare waveforms to known good waveforms.

I just did my rocker arms and I also used a magnetic pickup tool and I think I touched it to the tone wheel. I have a p0349 code that won't clear and I'm stuck in limp mode. Probably gonna need both cams for bank 2. Why do they design these like this??!!

@marcsciarrotta3109 Dang, that sucks! I was fortunate enough not to have any codes thrown once I put everything back together. I guess I just got lucky. That was one of the things that most videos don't talk about is the magnetic part of the tonewheel mostly everybody talked about the cam phaser and its sensitivity to magnetic tools. When I did use the film it did show the magnetic field and it look normal so maybe try that first and see if the magnetic waves are disrupted because if it's not, it honestly might be something else. Good luck and hopefully you find out the problem, I couldn't imagine having to tear it back down again