I mean, same idea, a C920 would just not show the green line. I just restored the default camera but the C920 way is an option. This was just an experiment to show it's possible or for people that want to do timelapses from different angles via the native app.

It depends on how the SW on the printer is trying to process the image.

I don't know where the sensor is on the redesigned ones but the fix is potentially similar. I'm also not sure if it's the same sensor part or if they changed it. You can dig around to see.

@Thank you for your response! I figured it out, on the 2019 it’s located right behind the lower grill closer to the driver side. I put a sensor from auto zone the car refused to recognize it. Popped a ford sensor in and check engines gone everything’s back to normal. Thanks again friend

It's not the camera, it's the processor of p1 isn't capable of doing high frame rate

@ oh ok

And another problem is the lighting. Very important in photography, when you want HQ picture/video. Switch off the Bambu's own LED (you don't want to look into the Sun), and build your own LED lighting stripe into the upper frame, you can find many solutions in the Makerworld.

@@telelaci2 There’s a few cases where something like this might make sense to do: 1. Your Bambu camera dies (like mine) and you want to replace it without buying a new Bambu sensor 2. You want a different camera angle and/or better quality (which even the C920 gives you) while still being able to use the native Bambu App for monitoring on your phone remotely and the native Timelapse feature. Using “my own transfer method” would imply having to setup another device to monitor it that’s not tied into the Bambu app, probably a pi or other Linux box whatever. Lighting and camera angle you can play with like anything else, ideally yeah you’d turn off the Bambu light and setup strips optimally for your camera setup, but you can do that with this just fine.

@@AndreiAldea OK but a Bambu Chamber Camera replacement for X1C is 54 EUR/$ 50, it's definitely cheaper than an Logitech C920/C922, not mentioning a GoPro or a DSLR or mirrorless pro cameras you tested. You are not cheaper but more expensive. And you needed many gadgets also, a camera tripod, USB cable, plug converters, dongle. Add it up don't be shy. You will be over $ 100.

@@AndreiAldea The weakest link of the Bambu's Data stream is the bandwitdth, 2.4GHz wifi. You can't change that (maybe later with the Crowdsupply X1Plus for $125). And it limits your quality badly, whatever camera you use. They should've put a gigabit ethernet in the printer, but they wanted to save money. Meh. And I wouldn't name the half green screen a better quality, but faulty instead. Bambu's firmware can't handle that camera properly. So I think the idea was very good, it was worth a try, but it failed, you couldn't achieve the goal. Be honest to yourself. Sorry for the criticism.

@@lpROTC for me the artifacting was happening on/off after reboots but was always guaranteed to happen after the chamber was heated for a little bit.

@@AndreiAldea Like @lpROTC, I did not see the artifacting when you plugged into the PC. Are you saying it did come back when plugged into the PC? I have the same issue which also happened to running high temp materials, however it now happens regardless of chamber temp. I would think it would do the same thing no matter what its plugged into.

@@PigeonGaming Lithium batteries are quite dangerous if over-charged or over-discharged because if they catch fire they are self-oxidizing, aka the fire sustains itself even without oxygen, water won’t put it out. The protection circuitry is there to prevent accidental overcharging or discharging or in some fancier ones pulling too much current which could damage the cell. You can use external protection circuitry too in line just fine so the built-in ones are there to prevent someone from hooking it up without a proper charge or discharge circuit that monitors the cell.

Thanks, so if theres a protection on the device, i can carefully take it off? Seems wrong to mess with a battery but honestly your video made it look so harmless haha, you did it so professionally ​@AndreiAldea

Problem with P1 series is the controller not the camera. The cpu can not process live camera feed

most likely software limited to be crappier than the X series but I'm interested to see if the feed improves with a camera swap

That's awesome! I'm glad I could help!

It’s a Pine64 Pinecil, I highly recommend it.

Yeah if you're trying to do that something like a Logitech C920 is probably your best bet. I would try to pick up a used one off Facebook Marketplace or something for cheap, no sense in paying full price.

In case you are still being bothered: it's because the lens fell off from the sensor. Actually a quite easy fix by yourself but you can also replace the entire camera assembly of you don't mind the wait😂

What does 4:4:4 mean?

Do you think its possible to make it a 4:2:2 upscale to a 4:4:4

Impossible for USB cameras ​@@xswords1953

I would be curious as well but unfortunately I don’t have an A1… I have been tempted by the A1 Mini but I don’t really have space for more printers right now

​@@AndreiAldeayou can buy a spare camera from bambu directly. Which I might do. I wonder if the camera is the reason the A1/P1 is so bad, or it's something on the motherboard. Would be funny if the camera itself is the issue, and replacing the camera with something else fixed it.

@@into-the-mild If you look at Andrei's footage with the bambu camera wired to usb and being used as a webcam, the FPS issue at least seems to have been solved. I'm actually thinking about using the bambu camera usb'd to a pi zero for this reason. Got to be worth a try.

@johnbeer4963 what I ended up doing, is getting a TPLink C100 or similar cheap camera and mounting it to the side with a bracket you can print. It's a way cheaper and easier solution.

No, he tried with the a7 and zv in the video

@@cowabungacrypto not Sony ones, it would have to be a camera that supports outputting USB Video out in a way that it acts as a standard USB cam. That’s why the Osmo Pocket worked

neither does the x1. You didn't see the connector he chopped off?

@@spusuf I effed up, i ment p1 does not use usb protocol

Salutare domnule😊😊😊

@@bucurionutrusu3260 haha saluter si mersi 🥳

Im a pro solder guy, reparing all kind of stuff. Liked when you said "yikes" when you where done soldering, because it was real. But for a fast job like showing us how its really done, its okay haha.

Sadly i dont think they will add the option of adding an non bambu lab camera. But we have you to show us how its done ! :D Keep going with thies awesome videoes. Sor sure gonna help a lot of ppl!

@@jayjaythezeybork9853 aww thank you so much I really appreciate it! Yeah normally I like my clean solder joints and I do SMT down to 0201s without hot air fairly well but recording it makes it 10x harder, I’ve gained a lot of respect for ones like DosDude that make it seem so easy recorded

I’ll do that in future videos… still getting used to editing sound

@@Mr.X3D it could be but for me the issue always happens once the chamber heats up, swapping the sensor with the new one has it working fine so I assume something is cooking that sensor over time….

my camera started to have the same problem , when you First switch on the picture is o.k , but slowly more and more gets added to the image , at First I thought it was something to do with being on a different vlan , but work out it's the camera when heated up.

@@vash469 if it’s usb still it might but work at a reduced frame rate or it will drop frames. Not sure, I don’t have a P1S unfortunately. If you’re fine with not using the native app for monitoring a WiFi camera might be easier/better for that.

@@AndreiAldea I have a tapo c110 I use but trying to find a good position for it all the prints I'm finding aren't very good angles....just good for overall monitoring

same camera module in both. hence, unfortunately, you're right about the lacking processing power. should still be possible to swap in another camera with compatible specs, but you wont get much better output.

@@theelmonk the NPU on there is made up of 2 C7x DSPs so in theory it’s a more programmable version of something like a Google Coral for AI inference with something like TF Lite. The MMA is a bit of a black box for now, so the intent is really to only use it as an NPU from the SoC vendor but you know… like PRU this wouldn’t be the first “off label” use case for it ;)

Like Andrei said, it has 2 powerful NPUs for running AI. Unfortunately the info & tools for using the NPUs aren't available yet! So for now you have to ignore the AI HW accelerators and just think of this board as a CPU, like a Raspberry Pi, not suitable for realtime AI. Hopefully TI will eventually publish a way to use the AI accelerators, and then this board would be a very cost effective way to have realtime AI! But that's not the case at the moment.

@@wscottfunk the Soldering iron is called a Pinecil from Pine64 and for $26 it blows $100+ soldering irons out of the water (just make sure you use a good USB-C PD power supply with it) and the helping hands are called the Omni Fixo and they are by far the nicest, Tested did a video on them a while ago and they’re worth every penny. If I had to get those all over again I would. Don’t bother with the cheaper stuff it will save you a lot of frustration. The soldering iron especially is an absolute bargain

@@MaxCastles you know, I’m learning people who make videos that involve macro-ish shots are patient saints lol

@@AndreiAldea Or have cameras with manual focus rings lol

@@GridPB I do, shallow focus is a b even at F6+ on a 40ish mm lens full frame

dancing to the music.

I swore everyone thought this way growing up until I questioned it and explaining my what ifs only to be asked what’s wrong with me… what a strange world we live in