Braking does work the same in the wet, the only difference is that there is a thin film of water between the tyre and road surface. Your tyre has tread to help disperse the water, the only thing that changes is our inputs. Gently suppress the front brake to suppress the tyre onto the road creating more surface area, using the rear brake for stability. Generally speaking 70/30 front and rear braking In the wet perhaps 50/50 front and rear

​@@Hall2Fametire

Tyre is the UK English spelling

@Hall2Fame I know that, but tyres can only displace so much water, it only takes one slight misjudge of the road to end up on your side under a wagon. I'm not just being argumentative, I've just seen bikers wreck that had the exact same mentality as yourself. I have friends and family that ride, precautions are essential to riding.

I completely agree, the wrong mentality can have severe consequences. Learning to read the road, having self discipline and understanding your motorbike can help to prevent an accident. My mentality is having confidence in my decision making which is justified by weather, traffic, road and my state of mind. Having the right training can make all the difference.

Thank you very much for the feedback and positivity, I’m a big believer in staying humble to better help my students and to also be open to self development.

Hi, yes. I’m based in Gedney Hill, Spalding. Some nice B roads locally

@@dogzero1 Is this your presumption on people who want to improve their own riding? Advanced riding isn’t just about ‘riding’, it’s about having the right mindset to deal with hazards, enabling better decision making which in turn makes us safer riders. If you watch my videos you will learn that I don’t think I am better than anyone else, where is the objective of being a good teacher if you’re a know it all? Perhaps you could teach me, I’m always open to learning. You have commented previously on my videos sharing your views, but not sharing knowledge. Why is this?

Everyone has a purpose to do good and help others by sharing their knowledge 😊

Thank you very much for your support

I hope you’re going to add it to your bedtime playlist 🤣

@@Hall2Fame That is a good idea. I hope you don't wear one of those dayglo POLITE vests too.

@@dogzero1 👀

@@Hall2Fame

This video is for improving the confidence of road riding, motocross and agility (slow riding) take a different approach. It all comes down to the physics and adjustments to the centre of gravity, though there is no set way to ride a bike. The important thing is to understand the physics and what the bike does, then you can ride the way that you are most comfortable with. The way I train others covers Roadcraft for on road riding.

Live everyday as if it’s your last, I suppose

By leaning I’m not referring to ‘knee down’ type lean, just minor adjustments transferring our weight to the side that we are turning. Doing so even just slightly can tighten our turn and maintain our speed because the more our bike leans over the less grip we have, it’s a trade off between lean angle and available tyre grip. Though like you said it’s not always necessary in normal circumstances, but in the rain for example it becomes more important to maintain that stability.

If I am able to help people find confidence in their ride, it’s all worthwhile 😊🏍️💨

Have you done your CBT before? It’ll be a brilliant experience training with your daughter, I have two younger daughters myself. I can’t wait until they can share the same hobbies as me (if they are interested in them of course).

Hello, I can understand where you are coming from. A lot of adventure bikes seem to be tall, even for me at 6ft. It’s an easy mistake to make to loose your footing but please don’t let it put you off. I would love to one day hear a success story of you getting back onto a taller bike, did your feet reach the floor when you were sat on the Tenere? I find with taller bikes, that they can feel too big and overwhelming because they are top heavy especially if you’re on your tip toes. Some quick tips to help you overcome that fear when you feel ready to test ride taller bikes again: - Adjust suspension/ get a lowering kit. - When stopping, keep your head up for balance, lean the bike a bit to the right, and put your right foot down. This way, you can use your left foot to kick the side stand down and switch legs. If you lose your footing, the side stand will catch you. The GS & RT are big bikes but are very well balanced and their weight is low down giving you more control. The roads can’t be worse than the UK can they? People think we are drink driving but we are actually just avoiding the potholes. 🤣 A motorbike is very stable when riding above 20 mph due to the forces and gyroscopic effect of the wheels, even on uneven surfaces, the only thing that would usually destabilise the bike is our inputs by upsetting the balance of the suspension/ wheels. Smoothness is key! Easier said than done though, but going back to basics and starting off your ride step by step and understand each process, what inputs will affect the bike, keeping your head up looking into the distance to improve your balance will help with handling/ stability, it will all come together and overtime you will feel what the bike can and can’t do. Inclined roads, I imagine your worry is that the steering feels light on an inline and you have fear of the bike rolling back? If so, pull the throttle on gently to not put too much power to your rear wheel. You’re not on your own with the worry of the bike rolling back. Before you set off apply the rear brake fully, get the biting point of your clutch, gently apply your throttle and as you feel the bike pull slowly release your rear brake. When coming to a stop, again gently applying your front and rear brake equally, as you slow down just apply the rear brake and as you stop put it on fully. With what I have read I’m sure you have the knowledge to get over your fears. It’s all about having the right mindset knowing what to do in the situations you are facing, you have already recognised what is holding you back! I hope I have helped in getting you back to riding with more confidence. If I can be of anymore help, please let me know - Adam

@@Hall2Fame The old super tenere 750 is very tall bike with seat height of 865 but according to google, the transalp that i had is about 850, so no that much difference but tipped the scale in my situation . I was on tip toes. I'm 177 /google says 5'10/ in 82 cm leg. At the moment, I have damage to my right knee and it's impossible ride tall bikes even if I wanted, my back is also bad. I have no desire for big, heavy and tall bike. I scaled down years ago and ride bikes up to 400cc for many years. I wrote under your video not to complain that I can't or to seek help, but just to share my experiences from a long forgotten past. So, as I get older, the only bike i've thinking about is a cruiser.

My misunderstanding, it’s always interesting to hear about other riders’ journeys. I understand why you’d move to lighter bikes, especially with knee and back issues. Cruisers are a good choice for comfort, I’m glad you’ve found what works for you. Feel free to share more stories anytime, it’s great to hear from fellow bikers. - Adam

Thank you, I hope you enjoy the videos. If I can help people to enjoy their riding by learning to stay safe then it’s all worth while - Adam

You’re welcome, the three key things to take away from my video to help you would be: 1. Keep your head up, look where you want the bike to go. (Balancing your bike will become easier). 2. Keep your revs up and control the bike using your clutch. 3. I mention trail braking, some people don’t like this method but I find it helps the control of tightening your turn. I would recommend getting used to the handling of your bike, balance and clutch control before adding another element to it. From experience, when I first started riding I thought there was a fault with the bike… it was me not knowing the best way to control the bike and looking further afield. I hope my videos are helpful to further your skills and a guide to help you to work towards your full licence should you wish to. Adam - Hall 2 Fame

You’re very welcome, my mission is to educate people on making the best decision when out and about on the road. If a vehicle is behind you and you decide to position yourself in either 1 (near side) or 3 (offside) for too long a following or oncoming vehicle could misunderstand on what you are doing, also if you are travelling along a wide road and you choose either of those positions you are vulnerable to being undertaken or overtaken not giving you room for your safety bubble. On more open roads where hazards are hidden on the verge and you can maintain the view ahead, I tend to change regularly from 2/3 looking ahead and moving my bike away from the hazard even if it’s only minimal. Small inputs could give you an extra second or two to react. On town/ city roads I would mostly maintain a neutral 2 position as hazards are developing at such a fast rate from all directions so I would think of minimising the risk and split the hazard reaction time and choose a neutral position. The consideration is also to be a good following distance from vehicles you are following to be observant of the road surface, and to be in a position where if someone was to look in their mirror they would see you instantly, the same goes for oncoming vehicles to be able to see you. There is no “set in stone” way of riding, it all comes down to understanding of risk, hazards and making a decision on the current situation but also remembering why you’re on a bike… to enjoy it. I hope I have answered your question the best way I can explain. ☺️ Kind regards Adam

@@Hall2Fame thank you you, I understand your point, I really appreciate your mission.

Thank you very much

Thank you very much! ❤ I really do my best and hope to develop the skills of other riders and my own.

I understand your outlook on the system, there are some riders that like you say ‘are too set in their ways’ which makes the system of motorcycling look invalid in todays riding. I like to coach to the Roadcraft systematic way of riding as it creates structure, so yes the structure is rigid in itself but it’s us as riders that can use it as a tool/ guide to help us to negotiate a hazard in a systematic way to be able to control our bike to give us time as our brains can’t process everything at once. It’s more of a prioritisation way of riding than something that is gospel. The way I implement IPSGA is to help our customers become a more confident rider in breaking our inputs down into sections ‘IPSGA’ to create a safer rider by being in control of their bike. The ultimate goal is to create a safer and more confident rider while still maintaining the fun of real life riding (I don’t go by textbook, I use what studies are available to me as a guide). While I completely understand your outlook, I hope my outlook has given you another perspective as to why I feel Roadcraft and the system of motorcycling is still valid in today’s world. Adam Hall 2 Fame

I think I may need to start rethinking this, maybe I should start coaching how to drive a tank as the roads are in so much disrepair 😂