Cheers, glad it was helpful - I still use it to this day! 😊👍

Hi, no it doesn't. Their cooling seems to work well so there's no need to break up the files 😊👍

Hi, yes it's great. I used it for one-bag travel for a week in Lofoten, fully loaded, and it worked really well. 😊👍

Me too! 😊👍

Funny you should say that, but not long after I returned from that trip that's exactly what I did! 😊👍

I would go for the 9mm Lumix. In fact that's exactly what I did. the 6mm is such a specialist lens that the applications for it are quite limited. Whereas the 9mm is just right and would do well for you on your trip. Also it's much lighter than the Laowa and better optically. 😊👍

Glad it was helpful! 😊👍

Hello. A very good question which I asked of myself about 6 months ago and quickly reacquired one! Which now lives on my OM-1 and is my default lens! I had gone back to prime lenses because that's what I grew up with in the 70s and 80s. And whilst I still have and use a set regularly (at 9, 15, 20, 25, & 45mm) I found that when out walking the dog or hiking the hills the 8-25 was sorely missed 😊👍

@@DGriffGallery Thanks a million, have put in an order for the 8-25mm and the 40-150mm! Keep up the great work!!!!! Subbed & Thumbed-Up!! (I grew up in the same `dark ages` as you, so I know what you are talking about there..)

Glad you enjoyed it 😊👍

I used to use Nikon. I don't I think it's so much a case of too much camera just excessive weight and bulk for comparable results. After quite a few years with Olympus I could never see myself migrating to a larger system, and all of the professional work I have done in those years has been perfectly acceptable to my clients and myself. 😊👍

@@DGriffGallery thank you

Many thanks, Rick! Sadly due to range of personal and family issues my video productivity has dropped off a lot in the last couple of years and whilst I'm hopeful of picking it up again next year I'm not sure when that might come about, perhaps by the summer. So I really appreciate you dipping into my back catalogue and really glad that you still find something to enjoy there. 😊👍

Took a while to dredge one up though!! 😂👍

Hello Kevin, thanks so much for watching, really glad you enjoyed it. To answer your question the reason I choose that aperture is because using an M4/3 system means that I am at a full frame equivalent of f/11. This usually gives me the depth of field I need to avoid stacking, and also tends to correspond with the sweet spot of the lens, about one stop in from its wide aperture. 😊👍

Croeso! Diolch i chi am wylio 😊👍

Hello. My Kase series are all 77mm so I step up to that for all my lenses. Works fine 😊👍

Thanks a lot, I've tracked it down and submitted a copyright infringement claim ... 😊👍

Great I hate people stealing images

PS I am planning to buy one of these for my birthday this year 2025 as I have a 30% off voucher with OM Systems

Hello Mike. In the simplest terms a "stop" is an arbitrary expression for amending the amount of light entering the camera. Increasing exposure by a stop means you are doubling the light from its current amount. Reducing by a stop means halving. It's helpful when hearing about exposure to have a general grasp so you can follow along. But the easiest way to expose your images correctly is to use the camera's histogram along with the EVF or LCD. In modern cameras if it looks OK on the screen that's usually fine. In olden day when I was using film 40 years ago, stops were more important because you couldn't see what you were going to get in any given situation. Light meters helped to determine the average exposure, and then if there were bright highlights or dark shadows you would compensate by upping or lowering exposure by a stop or two. So the easy rule of thumb is this: see what looks about right on the camera. And then if there are dark shadows or bright highlights adjust accordingly to centre the histogram as best you can making sure that there are no peaks up against either end of the graph. You will rarely need to adjust exposure more than 2 stops up or 2 stops down. A range of 5 stops (2 under, the middle, and 2 above) is often the maximum you will work with when exposing a shot. Hope this is helpful, but it not there are some good resources on channels like Nigel Danson which will expand on this for you. It can be a complicated subject and beyond the scope of video comments to explain it in full, But I hope the general tips here are useful. 😊👍

Many thanks! 😊👍

It's not too bad today. No wind, which also helps. As for your weather-sealing query it's not something I ever think about much. I don't think this one is sealed, but some of my other lenses aren't either. I'm just careful how I use them, but they all put in appearance in all weathers. I just don't leave them fully exposed to the elements for long periods. 😊👍

Hello, I can't give you an honest answer about your particular use case, as it's not my field of expertise. But I can be very confident in saying that ISO is your friend for this sort of thing, I use higher ISO a lot for my landscapes and it's just another tool in the box. My starting ISO for early morning work is 800, but I have no issue running it up to 1600 or even 2000 if necessary. Image quality is almost completely unaffected and processing tools can easily clean this sort of thing up if cleaning proves absolutely essential. 😊👍

@@DGriffGallery gracias

Hello, thanks so much for subscribing, much appreciated. Hope I can keep you entertained. As to your query: I haven't used UV filters for 40 years. I always think it's a bad idea using lower quality optics in front of expensive glass. I'm quite lax about being careful with gear and have dropped many a lens and camera. Sometimes they break, sometimes not. I just see it as and occupational hazard. They're insured too. 😊👍