There is a bit of misunderstanding out there about how much movement is acceptable in a track bar joint, but the answer for that question varies depending on the type of joint that is being used. On a heim joint, there should be no visible movement at the bushing, and if there is, then the joint needs to be rebuilt or replaced. You cannot carry this same idea over to a rubber or polyurethane bushing, which is what we use. Both rubber and polyurethane will have movement when cycling the steering side to side while static. When the vehicle isn't moving, that is when the greatest load/forces are exerted onto the steering system. As you start to move and rolling resistance decreases, you will not see the same amount of movement in the bushings as it takes substantially less force to make the wheels turn side to side while rolling. That being said, the polyurethane pro-series bushing is recommended for people running 37" and larger tires as the durometer (hardness) of that bushing is stiffer than that of the rubber. It also allows for more rotation since the inner poly is not vulcanized to the outer casing like it is with the rubber bushing. The number of videos that you've potentially seen is microscopic when you compare it to the number of track bars that we have sold over the years that have had no issues. If the people who were 100% satisfied all made a video about the track bar and how good it is, then you would pretty much never see the ones who make bad videos. TLDR: There aren't any known issues with our track bar bushings. Most videos made are not understanding that the only part of our track bar that absorbs impacts/move is the bushing. Our ends are solid steel forgings and do not deflect. Companies that use heims and other joints that are not supposed to move use hollow tubes which deflect under impact, but you don't see the deflection because it happens while you're driving. The pro-series track bar is always the better choice as the bushing durometer is stiffer and it has more rotational misalignment. Feel free to call or send us an email if you would like further explanation .

It is still connected to the upper steering shaft. You will have to push it back up into position to get the threads of the bolts started once you've got the bracket held in place with the track bar bolt.

@@mikeyncali your message is a bit confusion - this would probably be a better question to send an email to [email protected] with some photos and we’ll be able to better help answer your question. 6.5” lift is pretty tall, and it’s probable that you’re a top mount (over the knuckle) drag link setup instead of a bottom mount (stock location/under the knuckle).

@@dunnoyolo2238 yes it will 👍

steersmarts.com/collections/dodge-ram-2500-3500-parts-2012-2018/products/2013-2018-ram-2500-3500-upgraded-adjuster-sleeve-stock-draglink

@@SteerSmarts consider placing this info in the description

@@Rick_Rdz that is our 9/16th bolt upgrade - the bolt is longer so we run it with the bolt head on the backside and the nut on the front (closest the front bumper). The track bar bolt that comes with the vehicles is a 14mm bolt but the bushings are slightly larger at 9/16th, so our bolt upgrade kit is just a slightly larger bolt that is grade 8 and magnicoated. Let us know if you have any other questions about it!

@@Marie-kj3xf people don’t sit through entire installations from start to end. There is plenty of good info in this and the other videos. If you have questions about something specific please let us know - these components are pretty straight forward to install.

@@airmech73 it definitely works for all JL and JT models, including the Mojave - no issues.

@@SteerSmarts thank you!

@@BaptismOverland we just skipped threading it because it isn’t a step by step installation video and people won’t sit through and watch videos if they’re too long. When threading the ends make sure you have the correct end on the correct side of the tube - they are right and left hand threads and will only thread in on one side with the correct end.

@@SteerSmarts thank you. I did finally get it on but the paper instructions didn't specify which way to turn. Just a suggestion. Because it took awhile to figure out if it was catching or it's just spinning out. And then I couldn't find anything online. That being said I'm loving it though. Been really beefy on the trail! It's a damn tank

@@BaptismOverland sorry for the delay in response - it’s a crap shoot seeing comments on here. Can always reach out on our social pages or call/email. We have a number of instructions that we plan to revise as they were made when we first started and could use more detail. Sorry for the hiccup but glad you got it sorted and have been loving it since!

@@SteerSmarts totally fine! Glad to hear you guys are reworking the instructions. I've been very happy and now tempted to replace the other components soon

@@BaptismOverland let us know if you have any other questions about the other components we have available - they are top quality USA made products that definitely make a difference! Reach out on IG or FB and I can make sure to answer your questions and point you in the right direction.

😂 We're working on an application, and it does play Music, we just didn't have it going while we bombed through the dunes!

I’d recommend our pro series track bar, and then make sure you have the correct caster and toe settings

@@SteerSmarts If I already have the adjustable one, not the pro, what's the life expectancy before the bushings need to be replaced to the poly urethane ones? Trying to decide whether or not to install the one I already had purchased before the pro or just return it and buy the pro or hold off all together.

@@tonygaines6819 completely dependent on usage - we’ve had people use the rubber bushings for 100k, but if you do a lot of off-roading and are running 37+ tires you’ll def wear the rubber out sooner.

It keeps the steering gear box from flexing at the pitman arm by adding an additional brace point with a bearing. Also reinforces the track bar mount as well.

Arb diff has a slight interference where they made that fill plate on the top corner. A little bit of material ground down and some paint and it’ll clear with no issues though.

Tack bar relocation bracket is necessary when switching your drag link from the stock location (bottom mount) to the top side of the knuckle (top mount drag link). The reason it necessary when doing this is to keep the track bar and the drag link parallel. If you don’t relocate the track bar at the same time you will get bump steer and you will not enjoy the way the vehicle drives.

@@SteerSmarts yes I understand that part. What I’m asking is in the video you never disconnected the sway bars to start. But reconnect them at the end. I have already purchased your track bar relocation bracket and was watching your video before I installed it. I was looking at my Jeep and it doesn’t look like I need to disconnect my antirock sway bars to install your track bar relocation bracket. I guess that’s my question.

They cover the only portion of the ends that isn’t coated, so they keep those shiny portions getting surface rust and also are an added portion of resistance to helping keep water out of the joint. You don’t HAVE to run them, but they do have benefits.

@@SteerSmarts Thanks. Surprised they don’t come preinstalled

The bracket helps reduce flex on the stock track at frame side mount and reduces the movement of the sector shaft when steering. The bearing supports the unsupported side of the sector shaft and anchors it to the frame. The sector shaft is the part where the pitman arm bolts to from the steering box.

Any high quality synthetic will work, but we sell and use redline.

Should be on the ends on a tag near the stud - they also should have had tags between the nut and the plastic boot cover that calls out torque. Additionally, that information should be found in the installation instructions as well. Having said that, torque on the tapered stud end is 70-74 lb ft.

@@SteerSmarts appreciate the fast response!! I guess I should have downloaded the instructions via the website instead of just watching some KZbin installation videos. 😂

That can happen because you’re disconnecting both the track bar and the steering box from the frame when you go to attach the bracket. Simply rotate the drag link adjuster one way or the other to get your steering wheel back to center.

45 lb ft on the clamp bolts for tie rod and drag link - front adjustable track bar clamp bolts are 65 lb ft