There are plenty of sources. Try searching on Google or Facebook. Version 2 with 8A BEC is in the works, stay tuned. ELRS RX already has an RF module, hence wifi comes for free. Here, integrated wifi would mean an additional module on the PCB, hence higher cost and larger size. You can always achieve the same by connecting them (ESC, wifi-link, and RX) together via a tiny hardware bypass switch that switches the signal/BEC lines between your RX and wifi link. 5 min DIY task.

Please check out wiki.escape32.org for installation info.

It's been around for ~1.5 years since it was first made public in Oct 2022. Not so new.😊

It’s definitely worth a try! It might work for you quite well.

Do all ESCs in the Github compatibility list deliver these results compared to BL32 ? Or are there some that are the same as BL32 despite ESCape32 ? I would have bought exactly the same one as the one in the video but I want a 4in1. And I need at least 35A with 20x20 holes or at least 50A with 30x30. For 4S 2107, 2207, 2208, 1507 and 1408 motors. 3D mode produces a lot of heat in the ESC... I have an eye on ESCs like Lumenier Razor Pro F3 45A, HGLRC Zeus 60A, Skystars KM-55A, ... to buy and test ESCape32.

@@Sugalime3D_FPV The firmware works in the very same way on all supported MCUs. There might be minor differences and rare cases of incompatibility when it comes to motors, but that's what the settings are for - to accommodate for different corner cases. All STM32F051-, STM32G071- and GD32F305-based BlHeli32 ESCs are supported, so you can't miss here. Some AT32F421- and GD32E230-based boards might be incompatible due to unsupported PB4 input pin , but that's not fatal either - a hardware hack is still possible for those boards. Feel free to hop into our discord server for more info.

@@senyx0 Many thanks for the answer. I'm curious to see whether ESCape32 could be more suitable for 3D mode FPV/LOS than BL32. In principle, it was developed for exactly that purpose, as explained in the video (quick revving, braking and changing direction). If this turns out to be true, the project already has a fan base and alliance with us 3D mode FPV/LOS quadcopter pilots.

I'd love to, but I'm a shitty pilot. I can't even land properly sometimes let alone record a demo video.😂 You are more than welcome to help spread the word.

@@senyx0 - I'd do it gladly, it's just my channel is small and none of my videos is monetized (even though I am able to do so). I like to keep it "clean" and my YT channel is mostly my personal archive of 5" custom builds and me learning to fly (last year basically). I will gladly spread the word, but the question is how many people will react to my praising of ESCape32. Do you have a list of compatible ESCs that ESCape32 would work on, or is it basically _"...if supports BLHeli_32, it would support ESCape32 as well..."_ ?

@@Seii-FPV There is no need to praise it. It's just well-written firmware that works for some people in the FPV community, probably not going to work for everyone, but definitely a good alternative to try out. I think it doesn't really matter how many will react. All that matters is that there is a choice, and FPV pilots deserve to know about that. We have plenty of those who fly ESCape32, but it just happens they don't bother spreading the word for some reason.🤷‍♂

@@Seii-FPV Most BlHeli32/AM32 ESCs should be compatible, but not all of them (some AT32F421 and GD32E230 based boards are incompatible - they can still be hacked in 99% cases). The list of compatible ESCs can be found in the wiki.escape32.org on the Targets page.

@@senyx0 - I'll check it out for sure, as soon as I am back home. I'd love to give it a go. I have Diatone Mamba DJI F722 MK2 55A Combo Stack in my very first custom build, T-Motor VELOX V50A BLHeli_32 4-in-1 30x30 ESC in my 5th custom build, and Flywoo GOKU F722 PRO V2 50A BLS 30X30 Stack in my latest, 7th custom build. Those are the ones with ESCs running BLHeli_32. My other builds (F405s) came with BLHeli_S, but I replaced it with BlueJay.

It's all documented here: github.com/neoxic/ESCape32/wiki

Please also feel free to hop into our Discord server (the link is in the description) if you have questions.

Hi there@@senyx0, I've come across your repository and I'm very happy that there's a cleanly written, open-source ESC firmware that isn't spaghetti code like AM32 or VESC. Sadly it seems like there still isn't much information in the Github repo's wiki. If possible, could you perhaps expand further on the code with comments, or at least elaborate on the purpose of each function, or each file as a whole? That would help me a lot to understand the code.

@@minhhungnguyen7867 Please join our discord server, and I’ll explain everything that is causing difficulties for you.

The Wi-Fi Link is a separate project. There's a link to it in the Wiki.

Oh, and the ESP32 has no peripherals for driving a BLDC motor properly. The documentation is also pretty bad.🤦‍♂️

Vu !

The original electronics is complete crap. I ended up making my own custom control board based on the STM32F030 MCU. I also made a custom 3-channel brushless ESC for the motors as you can see in the video. Check out the link in the description. I didn't have much time to update that page with pictures, etc. So if you get in touch with me, I'll share what I have. Telegram: t.me/senyx Discord: discord.gg/aed6xdSM5Y

Sure! Get in touch with me if you have questions.

No, this firmware is for 32-bit MCUs. 8-bit MCUs are not supported.

@@senyx0 what would it take to support them? Condensing your code? Or rewriting a whole new code from scratch?

@@CamdenWallraff There's absolutely no sense to support 8-bit MCUs anymore. 32-bit MCUs are ubiquitous, are much more powerful, have advanced hardware peripherals, cost pennies, etc.

@@senyx0 understandable. My edge case Is unique, where I can't fit a 20A 32-bit esc

@@CamdenWallraff Well, the Airbot Wraith32 MINI ESC is 21x12mm for instance. What dimensions is your edge case?

The model runs great after I spent several months fixing manufacturing defects and installing new guts.:) It's harder to fix than assemble a kit.

Mod 2 is ISO. I decided to learn ISO (not SAE) from the beginning since the model comes from China which is all ISO lol.😂 A sound unit.. well, sounds like fun. I didn't go for one with this model though. Did you manage to fix the notorious turret play? I'm thinking to get to the bearing one day and see if I can fix/replace it.

What separate ESCs are you running btw?

@@senyx0 Im running two HW 1060's for each track then a WP-s16 cheepy for my pump and a few other smaller drive board escs for all my light options and Slu motor

@@thatsmyrc HW 1060 are brushed, right? Hmm.. weird because my tracks are brushless. I'm asking because as I mentioned in the video, I run all my models on BlHeli_32 ESCs flashed with ESCape32 - the custom firmware that I authored. I can't recommend this approach enough because the ESCs are very small, relatively cheap, and 32-bit is much better than 8-bit. Another thing is that most 8-bit ESCs on the market (both brushed and brushless) are quite loud due to audible switching frequency (I have a bunch of them laying around without use). My ESCs are completely silent. If you're willing to try one one day, let me know. I'll be glad to help.

@@senyx0 yea my track motors are brushed stock. I have seen upgrade part options for brushless. did you build yours or buy it from someone? I also saw that you have a different pump motor? I bought mine from someone yet it was new not ran. It looks to be a magomrc pump system and valve block. I also have a kabalite k966 purchased used with leaks from a company . When I got it it was a total disaster of issues and leaks. I tore it completely down had to rebuild it from ground up new cylinders hoses main motor/gearbox and then some then adding my own custom lighting etc. That unit is no joke not easy to work on by no means. gutted all the electronics adding my own. Now here's where the issue now is. My esc's I put in are the same as above for brushless. even though calibrated and it does have a factory brake when going into reverse. But besides that which is kinda nice so you dont rip the gears out of diffs, the reverse will only give me 1/2 the power/ I guess the esc is set up that way. Its programable through the switch as that model doesn't have a programable card insert. It is what it is for now. But I had about all I take with the k966. I was told all repair parts would be covered by company, that didn't happen either. Needless to say it fried me a bit. I wouldn't mind trying new things but I am no way knowledgeable as you are on your escs or firmware. Heck that takes a PC doesn't it? All I have is Macs. I appreciate your offer And do like your size of your escs. I might have to give a go on a few. do you have a site or something are you a programmer of software of sorts?

If you're going to use the Sabertooth 2x12A controller like I did, I'd like to strongly dissuade you from doing so! The reason is that the motors tend to produce lots of shorting due to very bad commutator design which will lead to constant tripping of the driver's over-current protection (it's too sensitive). In other words, this driver is not suitable. I made another approach. Take a look here: mega.nz/file/jgNy1LxK#_-OjH11mJ3AfEZ9roOwl_96aTpOpzSjyfNWmQbm32NY I used a dual VNH5019 motor driver and another MCU to drive it. I also upgraded the custom firmware along the way which now allows to drive such a driver and has backup buzzer support. I will update it with pictures soon. Take a look: github.com/neoxic/STM32F0/blob/master/doc/lesu.md Finally, the model works as it should. I'm very pleased with the results!🥳 I have plans to make another video of the upgraded version sometime in the future.

So answering your question, yes, I had the caps removed in both cases to save space. I put a 470uF cap down the power leads where they all come together, so it's more than enough.

I made a lot of effort to preserve as much torque as possible at low rpm. But it's still subjective and depends on the settings. For example, AM32 has the default timing at 22.5 degrees while ESCape32 has the default timing at 15 degrees that matches BlHeli_32's defaults, and its timing is quite precise thanks to preloaded commutation control. At 15 degrees, torque subjectively seems to be around its maximum, but I haven't done real torque measurements. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Your attempt will have a great effect on drone control. It's different from drones, but I'm trying to put a planetary gear motor in the wheel. The conclusion is that the desired torque cannot come out without gear.

@@rcmod642 If you need lots of torque, you need to use gears, that's for sure! The reason I wrote ESCape32 was that I used BlHeli_32 ESCs in my hydraulic construction vehicle models, but I wasn't happy how BlHeli_32 would *always* introduce a lag when starting, say, a hydraulic pump or track BLDC motor. ESCape32 doesn't suffer from that.

@@senyx0 I am also interested in hydraulic forklift and it would be great. Thank you.

Am32 default timing is also 15 degrees.

After having both models (the LT5 as a kit and this one), I'd personally prefer the Lesu LT5. I'm thinking of selling this LXYRC, but one of the hydraulic cylinders needs attention (the gasket is leaky, not sure though if it's fixable without replacement), so it's kind of on hold for now. The LT5 is far from perfect, but there's much more room for improvement. The main shortcoming of the LT5 is the track motors. I described the problem here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bHfYlq2EetGWjqc&lc=UgwffU6ckyGEoWqbTq14AaABAg My LESU LT5 is waiting for an overhaul. The track motors don't work well with a Sabletooth 2x12 driver. The over-current protection seems to still kick in from time to time. I got new replacement motors bought from AliExpress and will try to replace the Sabletooth with a custom made dual ESC (the one that I used in this model): github.com/neoxic/STM8-RC-Dual-Motor-Driver I will also get rid of the BlHeli_S ESC that controls the pump and use my own 32-bit firmware with a BlHeli_32 ESC as it appears to work much better than BlHeli.

@@senyx0 thanks for the reply. My kit I’m rebuilding taking in on a trade They had already ditched the stock esc’s. Yet I ditched the 1625 esc’s that was in it for better ones w/ no brake. It runs a 11.1v 3s no issues but room. so the cabin was the space for battery. I plan on changing a few things around for space for battery to sit different. I’m In process of re building this new kit from another adding new oil lines since I didn’t like the previous assembly of and adding protective spring sleeves and a few other goodies. I will mixing for now on the flysky and using my own lighting rather than the lesu. I might bump up the pressure valve but not sure how accurate it was since before breakdown I knew there was a issue because I felt the power was lacking or movement response. I found a few kinks in hoses between the frame or located at valve block. It was a trade I inherited so no loss to me but tinker time. Stripping paint was simple due to cast aluminum. The paint that was used was nice but thick tractor paint without protecting the pivot points on 3/1 etc Then which made those work harder in movement. I’ll finish rebuilding this lesu lt5 which in my option is so darn cute. Then I’ll decide if I want to invest in another lesu or Let the lt5 run its course and move on. Thanks for the input and responding back to my comment I appreciate you doing so 👍🏼

@@thatsmyrc Hey, no worries! I'm always glad to help like-minded people. It'll be harder to undo/redo for you than simply assemble from scratch, but I guess you've bought it just for that. The oil lines are very easy to kink, so be careful. They gave me a hard time to do everything properly. I also ended up routing the lines in a slightly different way than the manual suggested. The pressure relieve valve is easy to adjust. I remember I found a PDF on the internet, and it was something like if the gap is 4mm, it's 2MPa, 3.2mm - 3MPa (you don't want to go above that). So I left mine somewhere around a 3.6mm gap to get something around 2.5Mpa.

@@senyx0 Thanks for replying with very helpful info. Once again I appreciate it. I was going to try and pick up a lxy I saw on eBay yet the price used and leaking went through the roof. So I let that one go., I'll finish up this build of mine along w/ finishing the sledgehammer painting then I'll decide if I want to build a lesu or get a lxy as another fun project.

Not sure if you are talking USD. I bought mine for 1600 EUR (2200 CAD). And yes, it was quite overpriced. But compared to the LESU loader, the price was more or less the same, so I decided to give it a go.

No, I used regular 3mm LEDs. Check out this link for more details: github.com/neoxic/STM8S105K4/blob/master/doc/lxyrc.md

Overall, I was pleased with the quality of the mechanical part of the model. The most challenging and tedious part was to organize those little vinyl hydraulic pipes properly. They are quite durable, but when they kink, they become irreversibly damaged because you want them to be round and neatly coiled instead. And it's physically impossible to do what's drawn in the manual in terms of their arrangement at the point where they exit the chassis. So, one needs to be creative. On the other hand, the "electrical part", i.e. a brushless HobbyWing ESC, 2 cheap brushed 20A ESCs and a sound/light controller with a speaker, is complete garbage. Don't waste your time on it. I'm in the process of sharing a tutorial regarding this model, so I hope I'll publish it before your model arrives or before you get ready to mess with the electronics. As to the battery, it was the only viable solution to make my own from three 18650 cells because you won't be able to find anything more than 650mAh that fits in there. Instead, three 18650 cells will give you solid 3500mAh with plenty of runtime. After trying to solder them together, I bought a battery spot welding device for around ~$40 on Banggood and have never looked back.

@@senyx0 so did you change out the electrical then?

@@saehrfarmsandagrepair Yes, I ended up throwing it out the window. Take a look at the description of the video to see what components I used instead.

@@saehrfarmsandagrepair I expedited my efforts to share my approach. Check out this link: github.com/neoxic/STM8S103F3/blob/master/doc/lesu.md The main two problems with the stock electrical components are: 1) Depending on what transmitter you are going to use, you will need 5 mixes (2 for the tracks + 3 for the valves) in order to implement a decent control scheme. In case of a FlySky FS-i6S or FS-i6X transmitter, it is impossible to implement because they only have maximum 4 and 3 mix slots respectively. My custom firmware takes care of all the mixing, so no mixing needs to be set up in a transmitter. 2) The included HobbyWing ESC is designed for aircraft and has an inherent minimum start-up delay of 300ms. Hence the pump will always lag a little when starting up with that ESC. Personally, I wasn't happy about it. The SPEDIX ESC is a BlHeli_S ESC and doesn't suffer from that problem.

@@senyx0 curious, what’s it all run you for price?

In this loader, I use an MCU with custom firmware that is connected to a receiver via iBUS. It takes care of all mixing, pump control, lighting, telemetry, etc. The valve servos are connected to the receiver directly. As a result, the setup on the remote controller is quite simple. I'm working on sharing the whole project on GitHub. A tutorial will also be included. I'll post a link here when I get it done, so stay tuned! :-)

@@senyx0 I’m very interested in changing the functions on my FS-I6S to the way you have done but I’m very dumb when it comes to electronics. Therefore, I ready need your tutorial ASAP. PLEASE ADVISE when finished.

@@chuckschipper7731 Totally forgot to post an update.:-) Check out this link: github.com/neoxic/STM8S103F3/blob/master/doc/lesu.md Some soldering skills are required to make it all work though because my solution is based on a separate MCU that takes care of all mixing both for the hydraulics and the tracks. As a result, setting up a FS-I6S becomes trivial.

Gracias!☺️

Take a look on eBay. They are around $1.8K. I can see that they can now be bought painted! I painted this one myself. And now you can buy one in exactly the same colours. Beautiful! Much less hassle to withstand.