The attachment of the tanks vary a bit from the original trailer manufacturers. Often they are slid on and clamped in such a way that they can be removed easily, but sometimes they are put on early in the manufacturing process and stuff gets built around them making it rather difficult. It varies, so I'm sorry I can't give specific advice.

@@Icondirect That's what it seems like here! The technician who was teaching me couldn't figure it out so he had 5 other techs look at it and we all settled on an angle grinder being the solution. We put it back together in a way the next person can easily remove it if they need to

@@teddy5004 Good thing to think forward that way! Happy you got it sorted!

We recommend using a router that has 1.5 - 2 horsepower. It should be capable of spinning with 15,000 to 25,000 rpm. For fittings with a larger diameter, you might need to have a stronger router even.

An RV's gate valve location can vary depending on the setup. It can be deceptive, because the handle is also extendable and can be quite accessible, even if the valve is far under the RV. There can also be multiple valves to facilitate the black & grey tanks draining to one point. Sometimes the valve is located closer to the drain end & sometimes there's 2 so you can isolate the drain segment if needed.

Depending on the degree of the curvature and the skill/experience of the installer - it could be possible. It's always recommended that you have as flat of a surface as possible, however. We install fittings on some curved faces regularly - but with experienced installers. Here is an example: www.icondirect.com/fresh-water-tank-wt3796-118-gal/

Our aftermarket AC shrouds are made of a High Density poly to provide a long life. This premium material is a consideration made to prevent RV owners having to replace the AC Shroud multiple times with the OEM version due to weather events and UV Damage. This, along with other design factors contributes to it's price.

We recommend this or equivalent: www.icondirect.com/skylight-installation-screws-20-pc/

What is the saying? Something like: "Best time to get an Aeroshield was 10 years ago. The Second best time is now."

@@Icondirect lol I just bought one a few weeks ago, seeing about 1 mpg increase and half as many bugs on rv

Glad it was helpful!

I understand where you are coming from. With the annotated steps, you could mute and follow along!

No. Make the music louder. This is my jam.

A fresh water tank can be set up to be bypassed, as well as completely removed.

Hi Deborah! Installations vary so much, we wanted to focus on explaining best practices in selecting the appropriate tank and touching on installation in a general sense. Starting at 2:22 we discuss and show physically placing and supporting the tank.

@@Icondirect, thank you for your response. As you stated, this is a general information video, not an install. I'm trying to figure out the plumbing aspect (the actual install,) especially when the original tank is no longer being manufactured. Does the same shape and size need to be installed because of weight distribution? What type of fittings/tubing should be used? Type of sealant and where? What if the fittings don't line up? How is that addressed? I'm finding a lot of 'Southern Engineering' videos from other people just trying to get it done, and partial/hollow advice from RV places that don't want people doing their own repairs; this half-a**, good-enough attitude is why these things have to be repaired all the time in the first place. The last time anyone took quality work seriously (as a normal way of doing business,) was 1973, but I can't find a seventy-year-old RV repair technician. I have been taken advantage of by RV shops (almost) every time, so I won't do that anymore. I'll learn how to do it myself, or it won't get done. I'll keep looking; thank you.

Hey Deborah, The factors involved with plumbing in the tank can vary wildly and wasn't the focus of this video because of that. I'll try help with a few of your questions: Does the same shape and size need to be installed because of weight distribution? Typically, No. You can upgrade the tank size to whatever space you have available or downsize. What type of fittings/tubing should be used? Type of sealant and where? Modern fresh water systems is typically done with PEX. 1/2" sized piping is most common, with 3/8" also being acceptable. Type of sealant and where? Typically plumbers tape can be used on threaded fitting locations. Otherwise pipe connections via PEX connections is typical. Sealant isn't often used. What if the fittings don't line up? Fitting locations on the tank can vary. Aftermarket configurations from ICON usually entail a fill and 3 1/2" fittings on the end. One will typically be used to vent the tank, one will supply the pump. The 3rd and 4th can either serve as a drain if desired. Unused fittings can be plugged. As far as lining things up, you'll want to plan out where the pump is and the lengths of pex. Giving slightly additional length with PEX is easy and desirable as you can then easily loop the piping and line them up at each end easily. I hope this helps!

Good morning Debbie, Thank you for contacting us! For the shroud you purchased, it would be a replacement for that two piece option that you currently have. You would need to remove the bottom grey pan and our replacement shroud would replace both pieces. Feel free to let me know if you have further questions! Thank you, Heidi.

The Rubber gasket should do all of the sealing required, but it would not hurt to apply some external grade silicone around the edge if you desire.

A clear (or appropriately colored) exterior silicone was used here after the installation. Not entirely necessary, but can finish off the look nicely. For screws, we have some offered for this explicit purpose & they are described here: www.icondirect.com/painted-installation-screws-15-pc/

In the video we do show the installation of an inner dome and then also show the installation of just a garnish. The option is available to keep the inner layer for insulation properties, but we showed also the installation of the trimmable garnish for situations where that may be appropriate. Definitely agree with you that the inner dome is preferred most of the time.

@@Icondirect Thanks forthe answer.. I've been camping fortoo many years....

Hi Steve, It is to provide a cushioned stopping point as you drill new pilot holes into the sheet metal of the RV. The existing holes do not always line up perfectly, as was the case here.

Hey Jaz, Looks to be 2 or 3" wide pry bar, though that isn't necessary. Later in the video Howard is shown using a little homemade scraper, which is just a piece of plastic with a beveled edge. That also does the trick.

Hi Scott, Depending on the surface of the roof, chemicals like goo gone can actually do way much more damage than help. We found the best way is to use the way we did it in the video, using a heat gun and a plastic putty knife. You want to be careful not to damage the rubber roof membrane which is on most of the RVs.

I found Dicor roof cleaner helpful in removing lap sealant because unlike silicone, complete removal from the roof is not necessary to create a new seal. Lapse sealant will adhere to itself it just needs to be cleaned well before putting the new layer on.

My buddy is a red seal rv tech he did my skylight and uses lighter fluid to clean it

@@terryruggiero1718 Dicor does mention mineral spirits (it works well ) Cracking and brittle Lap sealant should be removed depending on characteristics it is showing, mostly dependent on age and environmental effects. Once it becomes hard, the removal process requires longer chemical (mineral spirit compress) and physical removal. It is a walk in the park to remove before it becomes a cracked skin mess with multiple layers of random sealants.

It varies depending on the material thickness. We have actually made a change to this and you are correct. We need to update the video with an annotation once i've confirmed the details.

@@Icondirect Did you update the video?

Would we be able to start a conversation on our website? Feel free to go onto our website for information as to how to contact us. You can use our texting platform or send us an email. If you could send us pictures of your RV window that you would like to replace, that would be great! Ask for Heidi and I will be happy to assist you! Thank you and I look forward to hearing from you.

Hi LazjoeS, Thank you for the feedback. I'll see about annotating the video as best we can with that note.

😊

No such annotation found. Peeling not pealing.@@Icondirect

The gasket is available, along with the window here: www.icondirect.com/boler-window-with-locking-gasket/. We don't recommend the replacement of just the gasket. Usually, if the gasket is in rough shape, the original plastic window is due for an upgrade as well.

I agree. The skylight in an RV will just bake the interior further needing to pump your AC unit harder and draining the batteries or peaking the inverter. Its better to have a roof vent. Fun Tastic is a good brand. You get the light needed , yet the fan and manual accessibility to open and close as wish with a crank.

Will these end up getting yellow again? Are there some that are stronger than others so i replace it less or it lasts longer?

@@yankeesusa1 I just bought a replacement skylight from skylight depot and it is thicker than the original thus sturdier.

Use a tinted one.@@yankeesusa1

Hi Sheri, The Suction cups are below the base; it's what the aeroshield sits on to protect the roof of the truck. You can see them very briefly as the shield is lifted into place at 2:20

Hi Michael, The AeroShield is designed for the RV and Cargo Trailer market - at this time we do not have a design for commercial semi trucks. I'm not certain where I could send you either. I do see them around - so they must be found somewhere. Sorry I can't be of more help! --jordan

Please call 1-888-362-4266 to discuss your fitment with a representative.