The exhaust pipe would have to be cool enough to allow condensation. It is way to short to cool enough.

I watched a video recently where a van dweller had the tip of his exhaust on a very short pipe filling with water and causing issues because he had the end too high for it to drain. Maybe you’re ok if the heater run all the time

@@billmoore5177 Rain or road spray perhaps instead of "condensation?"

My ceiling is just over 9' and I believe the garage is about 22' square. I haven't done much testing but there have been a couple days where I kicked it on with temps in the 20 degree range and the heater warmed it to around 50 within about an hour. Important thing to remember when heating a cold garage is everything out there including the concrete floor acts as a thermal battery, however once everything is up to temp, I've noticed it takes way less effort to maintain a comfortable temp.

So a 3" thimble is made to go over double wall "B" pipe (it's already over sized). Then you have extra diameter (air gap) between the pipe and the inside of the thimble. I just did a little trial and error until I ended up with this. Hope that helps!

Very true on the power failure point. I considered keeping the booster pack close in the unlikely event that happened. Combustion air was a concern as well but I have a few air leaks already with the loose seal on the garage door and drop down attic ladder. Using up the oxygen would be a consideration in a smaller space but I figured my air leaks would provide enough make-up air.

@@sbbox230 Yes, having a battery power supply is best for ensuring against a power failure, but as you mention that you're only planning to heat the space from time to time, you're likely to be present in case of power loss and can quickly attach your jump pack to let the heater clean/cool itself, so I don't see that as a real concern in your instance. I think what DryUrEyes was eluding to re. the combustion air intake not be routed externally is not an O2 level concern, but that you are essentially running an exhaust fan to the outdoors while trying to heat the space. You're consuming the air your trying to heat and constantly replacing it with unheated air through the leaks in the structure, more of an efficiency loss than a safety issue. Excellent install video which provides competent instruction for avoiding many of the common safety mistakes some folks don't realize when installing these units. Super clean look too! Thanks for sharing!

As soon as it looses power, and when re connected to power It will go throught start up when the button is pressed. It has no idea where it's at in the running sequence.

Extremely good video with testing figure 8 LOOP - kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3LVXqh-mZ2bbtE Conclusion: always tighten the knot and put load strand in the middle. That way it will always be easy to untie after extreme loads.