Gosh so sorry, The miterbox has been discontinued for the last 10-15 years..... I havent been able to find a substitute. Glad you enjoyed the video though

Bahahahahaha, Yup, glass and hammers.........very bad

So glad it helps

Im so glad it worked well for you

No we dont. We stop our beaded solder seam about 1/4" from the outside edge and then leave the edge alone so that there is no extra girthfrom solder. This allows the zinc to snap on uninhibited!

@@shardsglassstudio9298 thanks so much for your prompt reply!

We use the Hakko on 460 but keep in mind that they are all calibrated a bit differently and we usually use 63%tin solder (called ultimate)

Sure that works

Crazy how one little adjustment can change the world!!!!

Good spirit Franklin!!!!

This mitre box is commercial but has been discontinued. There is one that is put out by Excel and comes with a utility saw for cutting the zinc. This one also does the trick!

Oh you bet....Never, never cut anything but lead....Thanks for your comment

Probably that would work fine.Im gonna say that i just wanted to show another thing

@@shardsglassstudio9298 thank you so much. just found your tutorials helpful.

So the way the zinc intersects, it will require a small piece of zinc with a straight cut to use as your prompt to see the point of intersection. the angled 45 degree cut is ALWAYS angled so that the short part of the angle is going to be the open (glass accepting) side. I hope this helps

@@shardsglassstudio9298thank you very helpful

Thank you.....Im glad you find them helpful

Hahahaha That’s how we think of it!!!

We buy wholesale so i do not have a source for retail. Where do you live?

This is a u channel 5/16"

We offer only private lessons now but yes, we do teach the method of lead came Please call 978 977-0460 if you would like information about private seminars or to schedule a time.

Thanks, Hope you got your piece framed successfully framed

I actually use way more paste flux than is necessary. It’s just a habit, but it does tend to work well, if there’s any oxidation that you need to get through. As far as corrosiveness, it’s probably about the same as a gel. The advantage to the paste is that it stays exactly where you dab it.

@@shardsglassstudio9298 Could you please share a name of your flux? I cannot find it in shops((

@@pipanova The paste flux is called Nokorode....And to kill two birds with one stone and answer another query....Paste flux is the least corrosive and im heavy handed when i apply, but need not be that generous,.

I don’t have a video on that but thank you for the suggestion. Used paste flux to solder lead to zinc and 60 40 virgin solder. All that means is solder that has not been reconstituted. We use victory white metal.

Bahahahahaha...Poof

Glad I could help gary

Thank you, So glad that you found this helpful

Huh! I’ve never heard of that….how come?

@@shardsglassstudio9298 it reduces the chance of the glass breaking due to overheating

Thank you for the comment and suggestion. Yes definitely to washing hands copiously! As you might be able to tell from looking at my hands, they are quite a mess (dry,dry,dry) from so much soap and water....We never wear gloves (Ive tried and get my fingers caught constantly). When soldering its a bad idea to wear gloves, in my opinion. If you drop a blob of hot solder on your hand without gloves, it rolls off and causes nothing more than maybe a small blemish, but if you have gloves on, hot solder can get trapped and cause a much worse burn.

Thanks....Unfortunately we sold out long ago...If /when we print up more I will post it here!

Oh man, Theres alot to that question. Zinc is more of a pain to use in general...cant be bent without a zinc bender, so only good for straight perimeters, has to be cut with a hack saw, doesnt take patina all that great, but will take a black patina to moderate success. Lead is just as good a stiffening agent (unless you are using 1/2" zinc that allows for a steel rebar), can be cut with lead snips or wire cutters in a pinch, can be formed around curves, circles etc...and is just in general easier to work with. Most of our stuff is architectural so one never sees the outside edge as it is usually in a sash. There are so many other factors that you are welcome to ask specifics but if i tried to hit all the scenarios i would fail miserably. Hope this much is helpful.

@@shardsglassstudio9298 wow, Thankyou that is so helpful I'll just stick to lead its easier, Thankyou again for taking so much time to answer my question I really appreciate it 😊

My pleasure.....Have fun!

The paste flux stays "put" because its thick...big advantage. I know there was no external support on this one but there may have been flex bar soldered in between the foiled seams. Flex bar is a braided flat mesh strand that goes on end in between seams and it is extremely maliable so can be bent around all sorts of shapes curves, etc....

@@shardsglassstudio9298 Thankyou so much for all this valuable info appreciated

Miters look more professional.

Im not sure there are any hard and fast rules about sizing zinc. The 1/2" u channel can be reinforced with a 1/8 x 1/4 rebar.....makes for a heavier piece but one with more rigidity. Other than that, id say let aesthetics be your guide. No you dont have to cement the zinc edging but again it lends strength.

Good luck! It’s not that hard when you have a few good tricks up your sleeve