If you stick with straight or box knurling, there's no need to readjust center height. For diamond knurling, the angle between the vertical plane and the plane of the knurling wheel is pretty much up to you and the diamond shape you prefer. You could start with +/- 30 degrees and see how you like it. The center height difference between the two settings will depend upon the offset of the knurling wheel contact point from the center of rotation of the tool shank. It's possible, of course, to fabricate a more sophisticated tool in which the contact point of the knurling wheel is coincident with the center of rotation.

That was quick, thank you very much! I appreciate your detailed answer. As the contact point between knurling wheel and the material must be at the height of the material axis, it seems that I have to put some insert under my tool post to provide space for tool height alteration..Thanks again.

Thank you, and thanks for stopping by.

Thank you!

Thanks, glad you found it useful.

Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks so much!

Thank you!

Thanks for stopping by.

No, it should track on any random diameter.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thank you!

Yes, shouldn’t be a problem.

Nice!

I have not investigated that.

Yes it is safer, but I’m naturally left-handed anyway. Thanks for stopping by.

The angle is critical, at least for a straight knurl. Comprehensive details on how to actually use the tool and which knurling wheels to use may be found here: m.kzbin.info/www/bejne/oH-mcnqbf7NjZ6M&lc=UgxlhiTXt7h98R7U2514AaABAg&feature=em-comments

That's sensational. I was considering buying a cut knurling tool but they are hard to get in Australia and very expensive. This one will be going on my to do list. Regards, Preso

Yes, you are quite correct. Among other things, I believe a properly designed nozzle would be a significant improvement.

Glad you found it informative.

Glad you found it useful.

Actually, it is possible to cut knurl a diamond pattern in forward only, as the two-wheel cut knurlers do just that.

It’s a Colchester Chipmaster.

Thanks, I’m always learning new stuff too.

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it.

It’s not that bad, actually. When you’re done, a paper towel takes care of it.

@@mikelevyonline the main issue is the swarf and metal dust that's blown onto the lathe bed and chuck. It might be because I was trying to do it with a regular form knurling wheel with the bevel ground flat. I think the cuts were not clean.

As long as the knurling wheel is good quality, properly grinding off the bevel should work OK.

Thanks, glad you found it informative.

The insert should work fine, there is a lack of rigidity somewhere in your setup.

@@mikelevyonline here my setup if you can or tell me if wrong. Set compound 59.5 degrees same as 29.5, zero crossslide and dro, came in with compound. Using internal bore with 16irag60. Your method is a great way to cutting threads.

Chatter is usually a rigidity issue. Perhaps your cutter is sticking out too far from the tool holder, or your depth of cut is too great.

@@mikelevyonline you’re right i figured out tool has to be on the center and rigidity. It is a best way to do threading peace of mind. I tried both methods tool upside down but your method so much better. Thank you.

You may be confusing this with form knurling. This is not form knurling, it is cut knurling. Cut knurling will track on any random diameter.

Seems to me that the pitch distance has to go around the circumference within a tolerance or your threads will double step regardless of method. Unless, possibly, the tool slips slightly when rotating so that the pitch stays consistent…

Yes, you are correct. I started the spindle in the forward direction, quickly realized my mistake, and reversed it. You’ll notice that when the spindle comes to a stop, it has been rotating in the correct direction.

Thanks, glad you found it informative.

Thanks for stopping by, glad you found it informative.

No, but it is a bit messy.

Glad it was helpful, thanks for stopping by.

Thanks, and yes, I need to acquire a better microphone.

It seems that this technique is not as widely known as it should be.

In principle I suppose it’s possible.

Thank you for the very gracious comment.

That idea has merit-I also like to position my tool holders at 90 degrees to the spindle axis, however if I want to change the clearance angle of the cut knurler I would prefer to rotate the tool inside the holder rather than rotate the entire tool post.

@@mikelevyonline The primary reason l started doing it was to eliminate the adjusting the tool post constantly. I had my own A series tool post and l ground the inside face of the tool slot parallel with the faces of the dovetail. The drawings we would get in the last years before l retired started coming in with chamfers anywhere from 10° to 45°. So l made up ones with 45, 30, 25, 20 and 15°. For threading tools I had blocks for 60°, 29° Acme and 60° offset 30° for internal threading. For odd angles and form tools l used a block with a rotating head with a 7° clearance angle built in.

😁

Thank you!

My experience is that it will track on any random diameter, thus always cutting a full knurl.

Thanks for stopping by.

It just naturally falls into the track made on the previous pass.