*rolls red carpet out*

I caught him out early in the morning before he was "aproned" - Aden ( grasshopper (formerly cobber ))

We have trialed a heap of different methods since this video. Using a buffing machine now; Next oil, we will do a video update

@@studiodubbeld7836 the buffing machine will surely help with the labor of getting a smooth finish, especially for large/many work pieces. To be clear, I was referring to the Osmo "Top Oil," not the polyx or clear wax (I've used those too, but prefer the ease of the top oil). Like salt with cooking, I can always add more as needed, until it is perfect...but it is more difficult to deal with an excess.

@@johnhernlund539 Ah, got ya. Bluffing machine is good. But sometimes a little gritty afterwards

@@johnhernlund539 The first coat of top oil is the most important as that's the only coat where the oils are going to penetrate into the wood, so its better to apply liberally imo. Especially with a worktop where durability and resistance to liquids is important. I'd rather 'waste' a bit of product, but have a much more durable and long lasting finish.

thats joel in the video.

to save me watching the clip - should tell me min/second of where this is referring to?

He would of done that, after I Stopped recording :D

Its a non-abrasive applicator - we sell this exact one on our website dubbeldwoodtools.com

Thanks for ths

I tell him everyday - I got him a belt for his birthday last year - its been pretty good since then

dad?

sure can!

@@studiodubbeld7836 thank you.

Loads more! This video is ridiculous and there is no mention of using dry newspaper to take off the excess oil that seeps out of the surface and this needs doing every 15 minutes on the first coat. Layers, layers, layers, curing, wait a week and then you can start and all the sanding in between! Every coat, cure then sand, cure then sand! It takes forever and a day if you do it properly! Cure then sand! Wait. Cure then sand! There’s no other way and you can’t rush it!

Thanks, Aden here, I've been told im very gullible, Also believe I was 2nd-year apprentice in this video. I haven't tried many finishes; Only oil-based on, Pure tung, Osmo, Livos. I've found the number of coats of tung oil is usually dependent on the bit of wood itself. Since this video, we have started using alot more osmo. Thanks again.

Thats alot of Exclamation marks.

@@studiodubbeld7836 The type of wood, on the whole, should not matter in the least. It still comes down to thickness...and depth of finish. First coat basically gets absorbed, on the whole...and starts to form a cured surface...and the next few layers give it more depth and protection. It's just basic science of finishes....and is true of so many finishes...and not just tung oil. A proper tung oil finish takes a good month or so to complete. This is so often why people shortcut the process....and get lesser finishes, as a result.

@@joeidaho5938 Cool. I'll do a bit more reading next time I do some tung oil - As we use osmo/livos for 99% of things now. Do you have any finished shots of some timber with tung oil with a month long process on it?

save me a google; does tungoil give you liver cancer?

oi

Tung oil is fine for this, just make sure you sane up the grits to get the best finish. 120,240,320,400

We prefer the finish that 240 gives. So we usually sand 120,180 240.

Thanks dude, this means alot, we will get there slowly.

Also; what do you want a video on? Your wish is probably my Command.

My exact question too...

you could use an all-natural citrus solvent to cut the thickness of the oil. I believe pure orange oil can do the job. since tung oil is sooooo thick in its natural state, people believe that it doesn't penetrate the wood too much. so having a 1st coat that's thinned down a little helps. can't really say for sure, but that's the reasoning.

Agreed, he always uses alot of product when putting on oil.

I’ll randomly film Joel when asking tips and tricks. What kinda videos you chasing?

@@studiodubbeld7836 thanks for the prompt reply! I have enjoyed all your videos. I would really appreciate videos that help me choose one tool/product over the other. Like I am about to build a dining table and would appreciate advice about what the best application for each of the osmo oils and waxes etc. Another example is when I bought the Pegas jewellers saw from you guys I was unsure whether to purchase the spiral blade or a skip tooth blade. A video explaining this would have been awesome. Of course your project videos are awesome as well. This is not a criticism at all of your channel. Loving all the content and many of the videos I have watched multiple times. Thank you very much!

@@riversidewoodworks sweeet reply. On it. I would use a roller for osmo. We have played around with a few methods but for table tops - the best way to apply osmo. 1) get in good light, 2) use a roller 3) if gritty between coats, give a light 600 grit. 4) when you roll, make sure you leave no roller marks ( hence the good light ) 5) after two coats - give a 800 then 1500 then scotchbright on an orbital and bam! Amazing coverage and amazing feeling. Using I do any flat surfaces with roller, any complex areas I use the applicator method. I’ll do a surprise video asking Joel about the saw types for you tomorrow :)

@@riversidewoodworks new video up dude

Love the fact daniel mentioned blade types, less than a day later its on!

The way I see it, these guys are just taking a shortcut....and not getting anywhere close to the best possible finish with pure tung oil. Tung oil has to be applied one layer at a time, with more than enough curing time between. No different than any other finish. If you don't do multiple layers with curing time in between, you will get zero depth to the finish. That's what these guys are ending up with. These guys are basically doing one well-absorbed coat...and that's it. It get the sense they really don't understand finishing concepts well.

@@joeidaho5938 Tung oil is patience or don’t use it at all. You must sand each, well cured coat and you need to layer it and know when the previous coat is fully absorbed. It’s an oil that requires time and dedication in order to get the proper finish and it literally takes months to build it up properly.

@@joeidaho5938 I agree by the way! You are totally on the money!

Air flow on the curing is vital also! You can’t leave it in a stale environment! Air, air air!