@@MarkMastrocinque much appreciated!

If your Luger is all original, The springs are the most likely the culprit. I would suggest replacing those before attempting any other repair. Best of luck and thanks for watching!

Thanks Heike!

If the problem started after removing material from the trigger spring, I would probably start by replacing the trigger spring.

Thanks

Thank you!

I actually never removed the spring that sits under the magazine disconnect as it is easily damaged. I wouldn’t recommend removing it unless it needs to be replaced.

@@BrassJunkie Yes, you are rigth. I saw again your first video (desassembly) and you never took ofrece that spring. Thanks a lot. Greetings from Mexico City.

I’m glad to hear that my video was helpful, Happy shooting!

compré el mío de jackfirstinc. com

Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be possible, there’s not really enough room to get a proper tool between the extractor and plunger in order to relieve the spring tension. You can however remove the safety lever without completely removing the firing pin by angling the firing pin up into the channel until the shoulder rests on the rear edge and then working the safety lever out. Just be careful not to send the pin and spring into orbit.

@@BrassJunkie Thank you much for your video and your response. Cheers.

@@f.f.s.d.o.a.7294 happy to help!

@@BrassJunkie As you advised, I was able to leave the firing pin up in the channel while I removed the safety lever. It's actually pretty quick and easy this way. As for my original issue, the replacement extractor is indeed not reaching nearly as far in; it now overlaps the cartridge rim just like the pics I can find online. With some minor beveling and smoothing of the new extractor, to approximate the original part, I hope to achieve reliability. Thanks again!

@@f.f.s.d.o.a.7294 happy to help, I hope you are able to get your pistol to function reliably!

Happy to do it, When I bought my first HSc it needed repairs. The first thing I did was search KZbin but I only found videos on how to do a simple field strip. Once I figured out the process, I figured I would make a video in hopes that it would help someone else, turns out I was right lol. I’m glad you found it helpful, Thanks for watching!

Thanks, too many people seem to shy away from working on their own things nowadays. Personally, I enjoy it!

That’s a shame about the flooding, hopefully it was rainwater and not seawater, The salt can destroy the finish pretty quickly. A firearm with its original finish will always be worth more than if it’s been refinished. If it’s in really rough condition it’s basically considered to be “shooter grade”. at that point the collectible value is mostly lost already so it might be worth refinishing in order to keep it from further degradation. I’ll cross my fingers for you in hopes that your pistol is still in decent shape!

Replacement springs can be found online. Numrich and jackfirst are both good sources.

@@BrassJunkie Numrich and Jackfirst? Ok, show! Thank you very much 👏🏾

@@brunoflauzino97 no problem, if you have the older style HSc pistol (WWII era) it will be product # 2040 (part key: 32) found under the Mauser HSc section on the Numrich website.

@@BrassJunkie Neither of these two stores sell internationally. I'm from Brazil 😕 can you help me?

@@brunoflauzino97 unfortunately, ITAR regulations and customs laws make it illegal to ship many firearms parts internationally. You may need to find a supplier outside of the US or have the spring fabricated by a local gunsmith or machine shop.

I’m happy to hear that my video helped you fix your Luger!

Yep

I figured if I spent much time talking about each of them the video would end up being way too long. Let me know which guns you found interesting or want to know more about and I might make a video about them. Thanks for watching!

@@BrassJunkie The one I'd like to hear about first, is the P. Mod 37, Kal. 7.65 with all matching numbers. The one that replaced the refinished one. I've never heard of that one, but I'm not an expert. I love guns so much and live in Cali so I can't buy them as easily as someone in a free state (California Approved Handgun Roster), so I'd like to hear about all of them. Your 1911's look awesome! Your Sig collections is awesome! Those old ones...I think you get it. Haha. I'd watch a detailed review on any of your guns, but if you can start with that neat numbers matching one that would be much appreciated. What's the story behind it, where did it come from, or who could it have been used by. I love stuff like that. Thank you ! jerdog3

I’m glad my video was able to help you to diagnose the issue with your Luger and get it back into service! These old war horses are a lot of fun when they are working properly, enjoy your Luger!

I’m glad my video was able to help you get your pistol up and running again! I don’t mind the repost at all, hopefully it will reach more people who are looking for a solution.

That’s awesome, I’m glad that my videos were able to provide some help!

Thank you!

Sorry, KZbin rarely notifies me when someone comments on these videos. If you are still looking for parts try Jack First online. They are a great resource for reproduction parts. Numrich is another good place to check but they can be hit or miss.

That could very well be the case. Replacement springs can be found on the “Jack First” website. They are an extremely valuable source for new production parts for “obsolete” firearms.

@@BrassJunkie Im still a bit confused on mine. After doing some test cocking like you did in the video. I was thinking the firing pin was not cocking. But if I push on the the side spring I will hear a little click, then if I pull the trigger it will fire. So that means the firing pin would have to be under spring tension. That little click not sure what it is. The plunger or some interaction with the firing pin catch. They sure went out of their way to make the PO8 trigger complex.

@@Physics072 In my opinion if the click you are hearing is very faint, it is likely to be the sound of the trigger resetting. If your test using tape in order to limit the travel of the trigger lever is unsuccessful and the plunger is able to move freely, I would look at replacing trigger bar spring. Unfortunately given the complexity of the design it can be pretty tricky to diagnose.

@@BrassJunkie Yes it is and I have little experience on luger repair like this is my first time really looking at it closely. I'm more of a shooter than pistol repairman. Your video got me looking closer at mine. I want to thank you but at the same time I've opened a can of Worms I think :). I'll keep plugging at it.

@@Physics072 best of luck to you, I hope that you are able to get your pistol to function reliably. If you find that you need to fit a replacement part, my best advice is to go at it slowly, there is a fine line between oversized, perfect and “oh crap”

The angle matched up with both of my other Lugers so I don’t think that was the issue. P08 pistols were all hand fit, small parts were produced oversized and then filed down to fit. Had the part been something externally visible I would have been hesitant to start removing material.

@@BrassJunkie Did it fix it? Have you shot it since. What I did was put a piece of tape on the part of the L lever under the part you filed. That does the same thing as removing the material it stops that pad a little shorter. My pad is scraping a little bit on the side of the frame. When the barrel moves back that L shaped lever pad essentially slides forward, I think their should be some clearance or it will ruff up the bluing on the frame. Then Ill test shoot and probably file like you did for a permanent solution.

@@Physics072 I have shot it on multiple occasions since the making of this video and it has performed very well. The trigger now resets reliably.

That is exactly the problem I was experiencing. Is your Luger all original or have parts been replaced?

@@BrassJunkie Most of the parts match on mine on the ouside but hard to tell if that part you replaced is original or not. I would guess its 95 percent all original with ? areas on small parts. I would like to fix mine was trying to fully understand how that little piece was deemed "tool Thick" in your video. Maybe I missed the part or you glossed over it fast. I would need to buy some stuff too like that Blueing bottle you had. Where did you get that?

@Bob My determination that material needed to be removed was based on the fact that this gun is not all original and since the trigger bar was numbered to the gun and the point of Failure was between that and the pad of the lever, the lever seemed the likely culprit. You can find the bluing solution at most big box outdoor stores (bass pro shop, cabelas) or you can purchase it directly from brownells. Oxpho blue has given me the best results but you can also use birchwood casey super blue.

@@BrassJunkie Thanks! Ill try that Oxpho blue

@@Physics072 no problem! Cold blueing is not as durable as rust blueing or Nitre blueing but it’s quick and easy.

Thanks Brick!

I would suggest a company called Jack First. They sell reproduction parts for obsolete firearms, I’ve had good luck with their parts.

When the magazine is removed and the slide is pulled back it should stay locked open until a magazine is inserted. If your side does not stay locked open it may be an indication that there is some excessive wear on the mechanism. I own several of these pistols and some of them behave as you have described. I have not attempted to fix the issue with mine as I have had no other issues and it seems to be safe to shoot. I hope this answers your question.

BrassJunkie Thank you very much for your answer. It was very helpful.

BrassJunkie I would like to ask you one more question. When i insert full magazine, lock it and i pull slide back to send bullit to the barre, will it fire if i pull the triger to decock it or not? I have just buy this gun and i have never use this gun, so i want to know all details before i go to the shooting range. Thank you, sir.

@@KraljkraljevaSarajevo I’m happy to help! for the Mauser HSc, when the safety lever is moved into the safe position it physically moves the firing pin down and out of the path of the hammer. Technically it should be safe to pull the trigger to decock the hammer with the safety engaged. Personally, I never put complete trust in the safety mechanism of any firearm and I always make sure that it is pointed down range in a safe direction when decocking.

BrassJunkie Thank you, you are very kind. Have a nice day and all the best.

I’m glad to hear that my video helped you, Enjoy shooting your HSc!

Thanks bro! I’ve been following your channel since International Stacker shouted you out!

@@BrassJunkie You're very welcome friend!!

What is up??

Thank you! I’m a fan of both as well.

Thank you, I’m pretty happy with how they turned out!

Thank you!

Yeah!!!!!!!!1 Real Sick

Thanks brother! Best of luck to you in the mega!!!

I would be happy to trade stickers with you! My email address is In my “About” page, please send me an email with your shipping address and I will do the same!

@@BrassJunkie awesome buddy thanks so much for the trade and I will get right on it sending a email out so we can exchange info I appreciate it

It’s a wonderful receiver, fantastic, tremendous receiver. In fact it may be the best lower receiver ever made and I know more about lower receivers than probably anyone. Believe me. 😂