Thank you so much 😀

We used 5/8” t & g plywood on the roof and 3/4” T&G on the floor. We tried to stagger the plywood as much as we could.

6ft-6” square from the outside.

@@jayvakathemacguyver8472 Very nice looking build. What's the dimensions of the barn itself? We are looking to build a 62x30 and debating between 1 or 2 Cupola's.

@@bens3134 Our barn is 40 x 75.

Hey James, the boat from specs I found online list it about 2900-3000 lbs. The trailer, I calculated all the lengths of the material used and figure it’s about 1400 lbs. Hope that helps

5/8” plywood

We used three old solid wheelchair tires from old wheelchairs we had collected years before.

Hey Marvin J, what I did was used two bathroom scales side by side and put short wood post in the centre of each scale with couple of 2x4’s across from each post , at approximately where my hitch height would be, and then lowered the tongue onto the 2x4’s (make sure wheels are blocked). I knew the approximate weight of the boat via sailboatdata.com and I was able to determine the total length of material I used and found a chart online for the specific weight of the different types of structural steel I used & on the existing cradle and totalled up all the steel , and I weighed the tires and axles ahead of time before installation. Once I got the first tongue weight via the two scales (adding each scales weight up together) we determined it was to heavy. Then we jacked up the new frame & cradle and slid the axle sub frame back( axles are welded to separate 1/4” x 3 x 3” angle iron) and put it back down and reweighed again and repeated this until we got our ideal tongue weight. Then drilled holes thru angle iron subframe and new trailer frame and bolted together with 3 x 1/2” dia grade 8 bolts on each side.

Evan Casey It was Mig welded. I prepared the edge to weld by giving a slight chamfer and leaving a slight gap between the two edges to allow weld material to fill in. I tack welded it first, then did a series of slow spot welds overlapping and welded the entire rim together

That was just a test saddle! I bought a more original looking saddle at a later date from the local bike shop. We had just made it and borrowed a saddle from my bike to test ride it.

Jay V hope it fit perfectly. In any case, the job you were done is very impressive.

Bas Bekema We ended up grinding any spokes coming thru the end of the nipples. We used DT Swiss stainless steel 2mm spokes and the longest nipples available (think 16mm) from our local bike shop. And they were nice enough to lend us their spoke threading machine. I cut the hook end off and threaded the end and joined to the nipples with locktite and used two vise grips to snug them up tight. For the tire wire, I used a two pieces of drop ceiling wire. Not sure if was 10g or 12g. Had to weld two lengths together and then later trimmed off once the tire was place and tight. The tubing we used was actually a heavy wall chrome pipe, there were used in women’s clothing store as part of racking, that had gone out of business, that I was hired to clear all the contents by the owner.

Gerardo Ignacio Garcia Rivera We used a step stool at first. The video was shot as soon as we brought it out of the garage. We later added a step at the back above the rear wheel. We made it so that you can either use your left or right foot to mount. The step is 8" long and welded in the middle on the frame. We put two slim profile bicycle hand grips on it for traction.

FAKE NEWS no. Live in Toronto, Canada

Steve Williams try www.hiwheel.com

Tree Topley We used three old wheel chair wheel rubbers. Then used suspended ceiling drop wire and welded two ten foot lengths together. We built a special 2 ft long screw clamp ( a super strong "C" clamp) and used a 1.5" wide piece of 3" C channel that had one small v groove cut into one each side and right size slot cut into the other side. I machined a hole with a set screw on the side to firmly hold and fix the wire. The C channel block was put between the two ends of the rubber tire and the internal wire cris crossed inside the C channel. The other end of the wire was attached to the large screw clamp and then the process of screwing the clamp out and drawing the wire tight and compressing the rubber tire until all the slack( we had about 1 ft extra rubber) was drawn tight to the rim. Welded the wire at the crisscross and cut off the extra and filed and ground smooth. I forgot to mention put some dish soap inside the tire for some lubrication for the wire to slide when compressing. Remove the C channel space block and magically watched the rubber expand back and make a seamless joint. Ps there are some videos on KZbin now that show this.

MrLeonard55 I was lucky enough to be able to use my large flange unicycle hub and machined the 18 extra holes between the existing holes on each side. You can try www.hiwheel.com for parts.

I used a three cross. We also wrapped the cross with a thin copper wire and soldered it to stiffen the wheel.