I hadn't heard of any of that. Unfortunately for me and the world at large, the pandemic took me out of the stop motion game. But I looked up the lens and I'd be hesitant. The STM feature just means more things moving inside the lens. But if my video taught anything, it's that the mechanics of the lens don't matter as much as shutter speed and lighting to eliminate flicker. I went to the EOS RP's site and it advertises as great in low light, so that's perfect. I went to the Canon stop motion firmware site and that has a header touting that it is compatible with Dragonframe, so that's perfect right off the bat.... and holy cow, it has everything animators have been wanting... This is really really cool, thank you for putting it on my radar. So yeah, definitely for only $1,000, the EOS R and RP look like the perfect modern tool for the job.

You are the first to comment that and definitely good information to have out there!

I could conjecture about why manual Nikon lenses have become the standard, but what I always heard is that they cooperate the best with Canon bodies. I wanted to put that to the test with this video and, like you, I found that the brand of the lens does not matter; only that it's manual.

@@NotTriangles if we take an autofocus prime and turn the mode in Manual, will be create flicker?

@@Gournis More than likely. But if you follow all of the other steps, specifically with shutter speed, you will be able to mitigate a lot of it.

If there's one takeaway from this video, I hope it would be that.

I've never heard of it being done. But that means I can't say with any certainty from experience. But my guess would be that the strobe would have to be high end enough to output the exact same amount of light each time it flashes. Care for standing in the same spot and things around you not reflecting would have to be heightened. I'm failing at finding a concrete reason why that's a bad idea, but it really seems like a bad one on the surface.

This is what I said in the video. I then went on to show that lens disengagement does not do much to mitigate the flicker and introduces the danger of the lens dropping off the body.

@@NotTriangles You said it specifically about manual lenses though.. Edu is saying that the disengagement is for Automatic lenses which is why id didn't make a difference when you did it with a manual lens.

I know your pain. I'm still using the terrible ones that I show in this video. Good lights are expensive.

I viewed your channel and you have a number of issues going on. You should go to stopmotionanimation.com and ask for help, nicely, from some of the patient and supportive members there.

@@NotTriangles Ok man I am sorry I got a bit ticked off... I mean though I have no clue how to stop light flicker I mean I have tried so hard to stop it but I still don't know how to stop it! I will go and see if they have any tips....

The app Stop Motion Studio is available on Google Play, so you're fine.

I'm not an expert on all lenses, but from what I saw looking up that lens, it appears to be digital, so that it communicates its aperture settings via the camera body. So, between shots, it will wiggle and reset a bit. If Dragonframe says there is a live view disparity as well, they would know. They work tirelessly to make sure their software is accessible to as many models as possible and to update their FAQ to help users with purchasing. A specific adapter for you? I don't think there is one. You have to control the aperture somehow and with a digital lens, that control will be on the camera body or in Dragonframe. The manual style lens you need has a manual aperture ring on the lens itself. If you use an adapter with a digital lens, you either use one that has a digital relay and thus, misses the entire point, or you use the proper style of adapter that cuts off the digital signal and then you can't control your aperture. So, since you said your work is preliminary, just use that lens and follow the rest of my tutorial with a longer shutter time and set your aperture digitally in Dragonframe. You may have a bit of flicker, but if you follow the rest of the guides, it will be hardly visible to anybody on the platforms you will likely be presenting your videos on.

Heyo, I checked out some of your stuff. You have a lot to deal with on your set because you work with legos. They are shiny, so reflective. To completely rid yourself of all flicker, you have to make sure everything behind the camera (mostly you) doesn't move, so the reflections stay static as well. What I saw in your videos was mostly general flicker with a lot of reflection. Just follow the steps in my video. Your other mention of grain: graininess usually comes from gain, which would be introducing artificial brightness into your image. Sometimes ISO settings can cause this as well. The only way to avoid that is to make sure that your lighting setup is sufficient for the speed of your lens (aperture capabilities).

@@NotTriangles Thank you so much for your advice!!

Thanks dude and best of luck.

Steven Topham hey, weird question for you, how do you deal with dust? It seems it's ALWAYS floating around my room, and it's incredibly annoying

Stop motion will never die =)

@@Trist10TheChristian Whoa, a year... I remember seeing this in my inbox and I must have accidentally archived it. Many apologies. My studio is near my garden and I suffer from the same thing in the Spring. Tiny gnats too, drive me crazy. One production I had to kill at least two of them between every shot. Blacking out my studio helped a lot. Then treating it like a laboratory did the rest. If you can do it, the door should always be closed. Use a spray to wipe down surfaces regularly and swiffer wet the floor instead of sweeping the dust into the air.