Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! By all means share, I always love hearing others opinions on speakers. Higher build quality than the Legacy Aeris...that's a tall order my friend. The Aeris build quality is absolutely top tier and belong in the luxury category. So what speakers did you end up choosing?

I don't mind them, but a lot of guys were commenting on how ugly it was lol.

If you have the budget for it, definitely go with 2 subwoofers. You will get a smoother response in the room, and more output if they sum properly.

Thanks man, I appreciate that. I have tried to get the Monolith subs for review, I haven't had any luck yet. They are a great performer for the price, no doubt.

That's really hard for me to answer. I have not heard the Q series. If we are just comparing known preconceived assumptions about speakers. Then I would venture a guess that the KEF are more neutral than the SVS. Sorry, but that's all I can really guess without hearing them first. I do hope to get a pair of KEF Q Concerta Meta bookshelves in.

@@SpecOfTech Yeah from what I recall the Concerta bookshelves go for around $1,300/pair while the Q11 Towers go for $1,100/pair. Interesting that the bookshelves are higher price than the tower. Granted both are 3-way speakers. Just for kicks, go check out Arendal's new 1528 series line up, they look extremely intruiging!

@@RJArrayCPA I think you may be comparing the per speaker price of the Q11 to the per pair price of the Concerto? At least in Canada, the Concerto's are $1799 per pair and the Q11's are $1499 Each speaker, $3000 per pair. I've been in touch with Arendal, and it looks like I should be able to get the 1528 towers in for review. Possibly in the new year.

​@@SpecOfTechoh yeah you're correct, I misread. So in the US the Q11's are $2,200 a pair. And Concerto $1,300 a pair. But yeah, those new Arendal Towers are massive. $9,500 a pair in the US. I would consider the bookshelves or the bookshelves slim $4,500 and $3,500 USD respectively. I would look forward to your review on those, cheers 🍻

That's correct let the avr do the work

haha no confusion, it's all good. Yes, you want to turn the crossover on the sub all the way up, some even label it as "LFE" if you are using an AVR or Processor to crossover your subs to the speakers. Setting your crossover in the head unit to 80hz is the Dolby Atmos standard, but don't be scared to play with that crossover point a little to see what you prefer. Sometimes listeners prefer a higher crossover.

I haven't tested the PB12's. But, physics dictates it should be a safe bet to say these will have significantly more output than the PB12's. I have no doubt that they will also provide more output in the lower octaves (dig deeper).

@@SpecOfTech thanks for the good info, I’m checking out your video on the 9,000 right now! Go big or go home!!!

I hope to get one of these in for review.

Thanks buddy. It is always best to pair 2 identical subwoofers. I suggest you go with a second D8000. If for some reason you are unable to do that I would recommend going with the D8000 Pro, at least the it has the same drivers as the D8000. They aren't tuned exactly the same, so you may run into some issues at port tunings. With room calibration it should help this. But, who knows, sometimes subs seems to work well together even without too much intervention. Hard to say until you place them and measure. I hope that helps.

@@SpecOfTech thanks for the reply! I can go with a second D8000. The reason I was thinking to go with the pro or 9000 was for the extra output power. Would I notice extra power with one D8000 and one pro over two D8000's?

@@HorsepowerAddiction It may be somewhat noticeable at some frequencies. I believe the D8000 Pro has a larger cabinet, so that will help with output also. I'm not sure how noticeable it will be. You could always try to pair them and see how it goes.

Thanks for the suggestion. When I have full range speakers, I only use them as such for 2 channel music. For home theater, I like the subwoofer to handle some of the bass above 50hz as well. I find even though the speakers are full range, a subwoofer still sounds fuller IMO. Matter of fact, some subwoofer designers even recommend trying a 90-110 hz crossover. I know my room sounds bad when things are cranked to 11 lol, but during normal movie watching levels, it doesn't sound like that.

That's legacy speakers

Those are Legacy Aeris towers. Since this video, I have since sold them.

I appreciate the comment, but not everything you stated is accurate. What is tighter to you? How can a subwoofer sound tighter? There are many common misconceptions with ported and sealed subs, that is one of them. The only time a ported subwoofer sounds "muddy", is if it is poorly placed and/or poorly eq'd. This also applies to a sealed subwoofer, they are not immune. Another one is that a sealed subwoofer is "cleaner". When in reality a sealed subwoofer is less efficient, and technically, adds distortion. The driver is fighting against the air pressure in the box, it works harder, it adds distortion. I do agree with your statement on the port noise and chuffing. That is a specific problem to ported subwoofers, but, sealed are not without their drawbacks either. Like their lack of efficiency, they can't produce the same output as a ported if it's apples to apples. I think you can expect more than a couple % more output with a ported subwoofer. A ported subwoofer can have significantly more output than its sealed counterpart, depending on port tuning of course. That doesn't apply to all frequencies, usually a sealed subwoofer will catch up to its ported counterpart in the higher frequencies, but again this depend on port tuning. I have had conversations with multiple subwoofer designers, and generally speaking, they have said "if you have the room for them, ported subwoofers are superior". I'm paraphrasing. Cheers!

Complete nonsense and clearly way beyond your level of knowledge.🤦‍♂️

@@SpecOfTech Woofer tightness isn't an arbitrary term, you and I and everyone else knows this. Tightness or accuracy is used to define how much control the driver has over its cone (execution and correction). Muddiness and inaccuracy mean the driver has less control over its cone and takes longer to execute and correct (sloppy / inaccurate movement) resulting in sounds and tones bleeding into each other, creating sound when it's not supposed to and less able to produce the sound it is supposed to on time. All things equal, smaller drivers are more accurate because they have a smaller, lighter cone with the same motor force resulting in faster execution and correction of the cone. This is why smaller subs are known for being tighter. All things equal, bigger drivers take longer to execute and longer to correct, this is why bigger will result in less accuracy or tightness. Sometimes so much so that the bass is completely out of phase from the rest of the sound coming from the highs and mids. All thing's equal, sealed subs are more accurate because the enclosure creates vacuum when the cone is pushing out and pressure when the cone is pulling in, always trying to achieve equilibrium. Resulting in faster correction (more important than execution) All thing's equal, ported subs are less accurate because they are closer to free air on both sides. This means the cone has less vacuum when pushing out and less pressure when the cone is pulling in resulting in it taking longer to correct which creates inaccuracies and muddiness. But has the added benefit of executing faster (less important than correction). Doesn't mean they'll be muddy or inaccurate garbage. It means they are MORE muddy and inaccurate. Key words there. Take the same driver with the same amp with proper box design under a slow motion camera and the sealed box will correct much faster, this is why sealed subs are more accurate under normal use. This is why servo subs exist, because ports create slop and the servo is to correct the cone much faster than it could on its own in a ported box. "if you have the room for them, ported subwoofers are superior" - That doesn't mean anything. Superior to whoever told you that can mean higher output at only 30hz, which is right, you can do that with ports. Ports do not increase quality. And this doesn't make sense because sealed subs are bigger at the same tuning, you go ported to save space. The only reason manufacturers of high end home subs make ported subs, is to reduce size (by a significant amount). Because a sealed sub tuned the same as a flat to 16hz ported sub is absolutely massive, it's like 2-4 times the size.

​@@brucecarter6205 Nothing says "you're wrong and I'm right" like saying "nuh uhhh". 👍 I'll repeat this comment to you. Woofer tightness isn't an arbitrary term, you and I and everyone else knows this. Tightness or accuracy is used to define how much control the driver has over its cone (execution and correction). Muddiness and inaccuracy mean the driver has less control over its cone and takes longer to execute and correct (sloppy / inaccurate movement) resulting in sounds and tones bleeding into each other, creating sound when it's not supposed to and less able to produce the sound it is supposed to on time. All things equal, smaller drivers are more accurate because they have a smaller, lighter cone with the same motor force resulting in faster execution and correction of the cone. This is why smaller subs are known for being tighter. All things equal, bigger drivers take longer to execute and longer to correct, this is why bigger will result in less accuracy or tightness. Sometimes so much so that the bass is completely out of phase from the rest of the sound coming from the highs and mids. All thing's equal, sealed subs are more accurate because the enclosure creates vacuum when the cone is pushing out and pressure when the cone is pulling in, always trying to achieve equilibrium. Resulting in faster correction (more important than execution) All thing's equal, ported subs are less accurate because they are closer to free air on both sides. This means the cone has less vacuum when pushing out and less pressure when the cone is pulling in resulting in it taking longer to correct which creates inaccuracies and muddiness. But has the added benefit of executing faster (less important than correction). Doesn't mean they'll be muddy or inaccurate garbage. It means they are MORE muddy and inaccurate. Key words there. Take the same driver with the same amp with proper box design under a slow motion camera and the sealed box will correct much faster, this is why sealed subs are more accurate under normal use. This is why servo subs exist, because ports create slop and the servo is to correct the cone much faster than it could on its own in a ported box. "if you have the room for them, ported subwoofers are superior" - That doesn't mean anything. Superior to whoever told you that can mean higher output at only 30hz, which is right, you can do that with ports. Ports do not increase quality. And this doesn't make sense because sealed subs are bigger at the same tuning, you go ported to save space. The only reason manufacturers of high end home subs make ported subs, is to reduce size (by a significant amount). Because a sealed sub tuned the same as a flat to 16hz ported sub is absolutely massive, it's like 2-4 times the size.

@@thehavok4258so much misinformation. Ignorance is bliss I guess.

Thank you! Haha, that's because it is massive.

lol yup, a single 15A circuit...so it's my own fault. After this video I had 5 20A circuits installed across my front stage. It definitely helps.

There are several brands out there, JTR being one of them.

When I have my head right next to the subwoofer, I did hear a little noise from the driver. It's hard to say if it's the subwoofer or my power. I have had issues with ground loop hums in the past. So, I passed it off as ground loop hum that the Tonewinner was doing a good job of minimizing. That being said, it could be the amp, but like I said, I had ground loop hums in the past...so who knows. Either way it isn't audible at the MLP, so I wasn't concerned.

I'm glad you find the helpful. If I silence the rattling, how will I know if the sub passes the rattle test😜 . Honestly, the rattling doesn't bug me, because it's mostly only audible when I do crazy loud demos. During normal movie watching it's not audible in 99% of scenes. So, to answer your question, no I haven't tried to silence it lol.

Lots of output and home shaking bass isn't cheap lol. It is on the lower end for cost when it comes to a high output subwoofer.

It’s all about perspective. Some of us spend thousands upon thousands of dollars on this hobby. It’s amazing to me how much value is packed in given the capabilities of these units vs other high output subwoofer competitors.

@@brucecarter6205 I built my own and bought an amp. It was easy and cheap. Sounds great!

That's just typically due to the camera frame rate. They can also sometimes look like the deformed due to the same thing. The camera frame rate isn't anywhere near fast enough so it can have weird results with fast moving objects.

@@SpecOfTech I have watched hundreds of videos of multiple sub set ups, even ones with 12 18's next to each other in a van. I have never seen subs appear this way during excursion to this extent. Must be a certain frame rate combined with a certain frequency to do this.

lol seems like a recipe for good times to me.

I pound my 15s and the neighbors have never said a word. Keyword is insulation.

@@thecman26 Insulation and cool ass neighbors ;). My neighbors are awesome. Even though they can hear my subs sometimes they are good about it. I also don't push them when it's late at night haha. Need to be respectful as well.

@@SpecOfTech exactly

The mic was clipping and my fireplace was vibrating violently.

@@SpecOfTech You need a dedicated room for reviews then.

​@@ejohnson3837 I need a lot of things lol. I just do what I can with what I have. I do this for the love of the hobby and to help the community. I don't make enough to reno my house or buy a new one...cheers.

@@SpecOfTech " I need a lot of things "😂

@@SpecOfTechI’ve been in your room, you are much further ahead than a lot of us. I have my HT in my main living room. Lol

I wouldn't focus on the wattage number alone, look at the output numbers I posted. It puts out a lot of SPL, even with the 1500 watts RMS.

​@@SpecOfTechthat's plenty of power for 15s!

A dual 15 will put out the same with 1k watts as your single 15

@@SpecOfTech cool idk much about wattage etc just seemed strange to me is all glad it is a non factor

It’s not that simple. Driver sensitivity/efficiency plays a major role, as well as cabinet volume, etc.

Why would you go with either of those. Neither of those choices are good. You'd be better with RSL Speedwoofers. Or if you have the space, some HSU or Rhytmik.

I would recommend looking at either something like these Tonewinner subs, or like Robert mentioned, look at HSU or Rythmik as well. They will all out perform the Nakamichi and Elac subs. But let me know which one of those you prefer after you get them.

I second that… I’ve done a ton of research and the RSL Speedwoofer 12S will blow those away at only $799 each! Also the RSL has hi level inputs that you’ll need to do the nakamichi “sub mod”. Unless you do a hi-lo converter, in which case you could get 2-tonewinner 12”s for $1600 and have good dsp, or even starke sealed or ported 15”s ($549/$999)!! 🎉 If I had that amount to spend, I’d do the hi-lo converter and get 2- D6000 15”s for like $1300 each because for that price point, it has a good dsp and awesome output plus way more reliable than monolith. Otherwise it’s gotta be 2 RSL 12’s or starke 15P! 🎉

@@MattyDaddy14 I like all the subs mentioned here. Also possibly Monoprice BUT I don't trust their customer service. Only downside to any of the subs mentioned here is they don't have the best looking finishes but that's to be expected when you have the best bang for your buck.

I'm taking donations to be able to afford them 😉. Just kidding, I might be able to get them in for review and then send them back. I waiting on Arendal...so stay tuned.

@@SpecOfTech you and me both buddy. A man can dream…am I right?! Can’t wait to see what you think compared to the legacy audio system

I'd take 2 D9000 to help with low end and then 2 D8000 Pro to add a little punch lol. Honestly, simply for a size stand point I would take the D8000 Pro. It's a little bit more narrow and fits my front stage a little better than the D9000. Honestly, you can't lose with either of them, if you want lots of output.

Lol, the Legacy's were on, but crossed over to the subwoofers at 100hz I believe, for that demo. Lmao, I need to hire you to be my producer.

@@SpecOfTechHaha, nice. No actual experience doing any of this, but just across town if you ever wanna bandy silly ideas over cheeseburgers 🍔. Best I recall from previous videos is that your kids are older than ours. Our smallest is 20lbs and only so so sturdy on his feet…I bet we could blow him over with the Edge of Tomorrow scene! 😂

@@jesseaylward7469 Lol that poor little guy wouldn't stand a chance. We'd at least put pillows behind him to break his fall. Are you going to the Calgary Audio Show at The Audio Room on Oct 26? I do plan on going, maybe I'll see you there?

@@SpecOfTechHadn’t heard of it but that sounds awesome. Just registered. When (roughly) in that 11-4 timespan do you think you’d be there? I’ll head over for a bit and will come say hello if I see you

@@jesseaylward7469 I haven't decided on a specific time yet. I am still out of town working. I'm 90% sure I'm going, and would probably get there somewhere around 1 or 2pm. Definitely come say hi if you see me filming or walking around. Would be awesome to meet you.

I've never been sent any for review 😉.

@@SpecOfTech lol, Your on #freetheKong

Look forward to this!

This

It’s mean looking that’s for sure!

The measurements are absolutely atrocious. Obviously he will run multiple subs but those nulls are brutal

I too love the look.. 😊 Looks threating.. lol.. In a good way..

Haha, that thing is a beast too. Next week the coupon code will be active for the D9000.

Across the spectrum or just in the ULF?

Depends on what you consider to be better. The JTR has more output below 14hz, but the D8000 Pro and D9000 as single subwoofers (not measured together) have more above that, if my memory serves me correct. If you want a lot of low end output, JTR is a fantastic choice and is really hard to beat. But it doesn't beat the D8000 Pro and D9000 when they are measured together. Except for maybe below 10hz. Above that the D8000 Pro and D9000 have significantly more output.

@@bryanpataky9751 We'll find out in my next video. I'll be comparing the REW measurements of them in my room.

And, do you speak of the 2400 in JTR lineup?

@@SpecOfTech Very true. I rushed into (2) 2400's and find them lacking in chest bump and ridiculous in ULF. I have the latter attenuated @ my wife's insistence.😜 According to data-base their CEA2010 max burst are below avg compared to their S2 starting @ 50hz up

Haha, first I need to finish the review on the SVS Evolution Pinnacles. Maybe after that they'll send me a PB17.

@@SpecOfTech looking forward to that 😁

Definitely looking forward to your thoughts on pb17 ultras

I was thinking of getting 2 of those to add with my 2 SVS PC4000$ but SVS said i should not mix different subs together. Like you said in your video that you can turn then down and have tons of head room so do you think 2 of those D8000 pro and my 2 SVS PC4000s will be too much for my 2 bedroom apartment Lol ?????????????....no one lives above me next to me just below me and im in a solid concrete building. And do you think it's ok to mix and match different subs for home theater. Thanks i love the channel and i never miss any of your videos so keep bringing more great content that we all enjoy 🍿🎬 💪

@@rickguenther1013 Thanks brother, I appreciate you watching. Generally speaker, SVS is right. It's always easier to, and recommended to use identical subwoofers. You can run into issues when mixing subwoofers that are tuned differently. It's not to say it can't be done, but typically you will need to put in some effort to get them to play well together. I would recommend just getting 2 D8000 Pro, and possibly selling the PC4000's. You will get significantly more output from the 2 D8000's than you are getting from the PC4000's. You could try and mix them together to see if you like it, but there should be no need to keep both 😉. Hopefully the neighbors that live below you are cool people, because they might feel some bass lol.

@@SpecOfTech thanks for the fast reply ya i really don't want to try to mix up different subwoofer brands but i also don't want to get rid of my PC4000s so i guess i will just buy 2 or 3 more PC4000s and that should be some crazy output 😂 Lol. I just love my Tonewinner at300 that you got me interested in so i was thinking of saving some money and getting some Tonewinner subs that are alot cheaper in price then anything SVS. And ya my neighbors that live below me are cool as long as i don't bump tunes or movies past 10pm Lol. My 2 PC4000$ sound soooooooooooo good and they don't take up any space so i can fit a few more of them in my apartment until i buy a house in the next 6-10 years where i can enjoy it as loud as possible. 🍿🎬

Do you have a course that teaches that art, or did you just take the time to criticize?

Maybe not for some, but everyone has different budgets. There are very few 15" home subwoofers that cost less than this sub, and many that cost much more. So, I would say it leans on the side of budget. It's okay if you don't agree, cheers.