I buy them from Menards www.menards.com/main/hardware/cabinet-hardware/cabinet-pulls/mastercraft-trade-aluminum-handle-cabinet-pull-2-pack/we2p1-sil/p-1841405562123408-c-1526043700148.htm

@@fangerwoodworking Thank you!

I get that one on amazon. I have a link in the description for the exact one I used.

Yes, 3/4”. I went with 3” spacing.

I’m using a masterforce router. It’s Menards store brand. I think there’s a craftsman digital router that’s similar. I’ve heard good things about Bosh though. For the bit - I don’t have a link but it’s a half inch spiral bit. Bits and bits sells really good coated bits. For wood chipping - make sure the hole height in the face plate matches the height of the cut. The face plate will essentially support the piece to avoid chipping. Also, an upcut spiral bit may help prevent tear out because an upcut spiral bit will cut up towards the router, therefore down towards the router table, therefore away from the top of the cut. I haven’t tested this so just an educated guess. Hope this helps!

Thank you so much! This is very helpful. I will give it a try. Greatly appreciated!

That’s the WEN mini lathe. I have a link for that specific one in the description.

@ Thank you. 👍

Thank you!

Unfortunately only the details in the video

Good idea. I was thinking about those long knob handles that have a 1/4-20 threaded end which would work perfectly with the threaded inserts.

Yes, looks like I forgot to include the link in the description so I added that now. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJbEi2ylaqyDrsU

Thank you! Hope the retry goes better!

That’s great! I only have the measurements in the video. I would recommend using the measurements in the video as a starting point. Depending on what table height you want or what’s being stored in the cabinet, you may want to make some adjustments.

There’s an opening on the sides, because of the offset from the depth stretchers.

Thank you! I really appreciate that.

So far no sag. The cheap 2x4s like to sag or warp as they dry more but I think adding finish helped. I’m guessing I’ll see a little bit at some point.

Thanks! I got the handles from Menards, aluminum drawer pulls. They have a few different sizes www.menards.com/main/hardware/cabinet-hardware/cabinet-pulls/mastercraft-trade-aluminum-handle-cabinet-pull-2-pack/we2p1-sil/p-1841405562123408-c-1526043700148.htm

@@fangerwoodworking Thanks!

a second addition could be two sheets of pegboard on the left and right,for hanging stuff. a rolling toolbox/workbench.

a 3rd thought would be shelves between front and back frames.on the sides,making little cubbies for stuff. or put your screw bins or jars there.

All great ideas! I hadn’t thought about adding peg board or cubbies to the sides. That would be a good use of space. Skipping part of the cabinet box would be fine as well - I use the cabinet box so I can always swap cabinet boxes between my workbenches. Like if I rearrange tools I can move the cabinet boxes with the tools.

I wish I had thought of that before. I made a rolling butcher block cart a while back and never thought about adding some expanding wings. Might have to modify it at some point to add that.

The thickness also seems to be important for the vices

I am pleasantly surprised by it. I think it’s the cheapest model they have, so I’m definitely going to replace it at some point, but it’s great to learn on!

For the upper depth stretchers, it’s so I can use the empty space between the top and cabinets for storing tracks or straight edges. For the lower depth stretchers, I was concerned about the width and depth stretchers interfering with each other. This originated in my mortise and tenon design and I kept it the same with pocket screws. I’m actually not 100% sure that the pocket screws would interfere with each other, so maybe the lower depth stretchers could be level with the bottom 🤔 I think that covers it. I don’t recall whether I had another reason at the time I built the original 😅

I have a wood frame/casing on the inside that I attached the hinges to.

There’s a cord that holds it in a groove. Hardware stores usually sell that near the mesh. It could also be stapled on but using the cord makes it easier to replace if it gets damaged.

With it being so small, maybe two straight casters on one end, two adjustable feet on another, and a flip caster in between the adjustable feet. My table saw base is that sort of setup.

@fangerwoodworking That's probably just as easy, and still keeps the stress from that side centered instead of racking the corners. Again, beefy build, so there might not be a lot of force on it. But no sense in stressing the joints or top if you don't have to.