It's been a little while, but I think it was $800-$900 and I'd say it goes around 35 MPH. A big part of that cost was the special aluminum wheels, which were completely unnecessary, but I just thought they looked so cool that I had to buy them. Hitting a higher speed is just a matter of changing the sprocket or adjusting the torque converter. Speed is the easy part, handling is harder. This one was really made to look a certain way, though.

Why can I touch the posts of a 12 volt car battery that's capable of delivering 800 amps and be fine? It's because the actual amperage that flows is a function of voltage. Ohms law states V=IR. Because the resistance through a person is relatively fixed, the voltage controls how many amps will flow. Therefore, by limiting voltage, you also limit current and create a safe condition. So yes, like I said in the video, the amperage is what hurts you, but controlling voltage is what matters to stay safe. In the case of a Tesla coil, the reason that it does not affect the human system is because of the very high frequency range of the Alternating current produced by the circuit. While welding is done using either DC or relatively low frequency AC (under 400 Hz), Tesla coils operate at frequencies over 100 kHz, which frequencies of electricity do not affect the nervous system or cause muscle contraction in the same way that lower frequency AC or DC current does.

Thanks for the sub!

The orange one is a multi-material saw and is built with cost in mind. The vise doesn't have a quick release nut, so you have to turn it all the way out and in unlike the blue saws with a nut that allows you to slide the vise jaw up to the material quickly. The clamp on the orange one is fabricated from sheet metal rather than heavy cast material that is on the blue saw. The orange saw requires the Allen wrench to adjust the fence angle, where the blue saw has a built in handle. The blade is a multi-material universal blade rather than a dedicated steel cutting blade. Other than that, I believe it's similar to the S355CPSL. I'm sure it'll work good, but the features on the dedicated metal cutting chop saws do a lot to save time.

You are most welcome! Thanks for watching!

Yes, switching to .030 wire will reduce the amperage and help avoid burning through.

Thank you!

Thanks! I have metric units in the courses, but the units aren't really the main point. I teach based on principles so that you can figure out the quantities yourself. If you try them and find that it's not the right fit for you, just send me an email and I'll refund the cost, no hard feelings.

True story, unless you're working on thin stuff or out of position, spray is generally better. As more of a fabricator than a production welder, I do it just because it's too much time to switch material.

With stick welding, you'll generally get less penetration with DC electrode negative, which can be useful on very thin material. I use DC electrode positive 99% of the time.

You can as long as the material is over 1/8" thick, but I wouldn't recommend it.

I agree that would be more accurate. I never thought of a cover plate for the bottom, that's a great idea.

That's generally true. With vertical welds, gravity will pull the slag downward and you can prevent the molten metal from falling out by using a slight upward angle. The best way to get a feel for it is to try it both ways on some scrap and see what you think.

Very true. Easy to say, a lot harder to do.

Turns out that it snapped the crankshaft right off. 😱

Great question! I would cut a piece of material larger than the hole, lay it on the bottom side of the boat over the hole, then weld all the way around it, assuming that the raised area won't cause any problems with the way the boat works. You could cut a piece to fit right in the hole if you need it to sit flush.