Wow, 2.8t?!?! OK, that at least proves to me that I should not even try. :-) As to the question of whether oil helps, there is a very well-established simple scientific approach to this: conduct the experiment like a randomized trial. Randomly (throw a dice) split your patient population into two groups and apply oil only to one of the groups. Then measure the forces needed in both groups separately and compute the median (or maybe average) for each group. There are standard methods from statistics to tell you (1) (if and) how significant your results are, and (2) how many frames you still need to test until you reach a certain desired threshold of significance.

I love it, you did an amazing job! ❤

Productivity level: 💯! I need this kind of workspace in my life. 😍

Love it…❤

TIG welding is so clean and quiet. No splatter, no slag, no loud noises. Very nice build

Brilliant video - shows just how stuck these things can be. Well done!

Love this and your process. It’s inspiring actually. Thank you for sharing it.

@tremblayshow how much force did the old Ritchey need?!

3D 프린팅으로 정리를 어떻게 할까 늘 고민하고 있었는데, 정말 이상적인 정리 방법인거 같습니다. 정말 인상적이네요.

Anyone know how much money in material this is?

Im totally going to steal this design.

Thank you for the very informative video! Inspired me to build one of these machines for our local community bike shop. We get some nice vintage frames with stuck posts on a fairly regular basis. It works! First post was an exciting event. Looking forward to saving many more.

What do you think about angled seattubes on steel bikes with alu-seatposts? Would this work with this device or the additional force in the wrong direction too high of a risk, if the angle is about 2% from the middle of the seattube?

Awesome as always. Vielen Dank 🙏🏾

If the post tube doesn't have a head (or the head somehow separates), you could make the clamping piece have an internal taper with corresponding shims to clamp against. The harder you pull, the tighter it grips. Same idea as a collet chuck. Or a draw bar in a spindle, except upside down.

very nice

Nunca voy a hacer algo así, pero no puedo mas que apreciar la atención al detalle y el resultado final que simplemente es espectacular. Increíble trabajo!!

these seat post extraction videos are great. keep them coming

최고의 제품입니다 제가만든 belt grinder 평가해주세요.

WTF, should i be wearing goggles watching you weld or what? 🥸

looook at all the gear to make your thing. am a woodworker in small workshop. But i also being a welder sometimes. So, i just wanna say..Hell of a stuf u got there dude. Nice very very nice

I have a stuck seat post. It's a carbon post in an aluminium frame. I've used wd40 and whacked the saddle sideways with a mallet and it won't budge! My next idea is to cut it off and drill it out.

I wonder if the friction beyond the first crack is in part do to the aluminium oxide microwelding/galling when the the post is pulled..

I wish I had the skill to make things like this.

Gary's projects used a hacksaw to remove a seat post, I like the Vandelay way. If nothing else you and Gary get me greasing my seat posts. 😁

I suggest cutting the stuck post flush with the frame and fitting a thinner postt with shims if needed

Sir, you're a BIG reason why America is Sooo Great! Absolutely love it brother, WWG1WGA 🇺🇸

I always imagined that the more you pull, the more the seattube elongates, constricting the diameter, increasing the tightness, requiring more force, and so on like a woven finger trap

@25:30 don’t mean to be pedantic, but in an effort to add to the discussion and accuracy just want to point out that sodium hydroxide is an extremely strong base, not an acid. It’s a very important distinction as accidentally handling or mixing it with other chemicals and not being aware of that can cause serious safety issues. As for the application itself, I can personally confirm that I have used this method many times to selectively dissolve aluminum that has galled up on the surface of a milling bit. It works quite well. But a seat post is a lot more total volume and I could only guess at the amount of time it would take to eat through. Though usually once it starts to get into the interface it’s no longer about breaking it down entirely but just needs to erode enough material to create a clearance. It is a fairly common and easy to get chemical, and is the primary and almost singular ingredient in many common drain cleaners. However, as mentioned in the video it is quite powerful and dangerous to handle if you do not know what you are doing. It can cause severe burns to skin and serious eye damage from splatter. It also can evolve some serious fumes, even before it comes in contact with other materials, but especially when combined with certain other chemicals has potential to create chlorine gas. You really should not handle the stuff unless you know what you are doing or are willing to put some additional effort into learning how to properly handle and dispose of it. Vinegar or another neutralizing acid should be kept on hand in case of an emergency. Always add the powdered chemical to water when creating a solution, never add water to the powder or you can get a violent reaction that throws the caustic base in all directions, like on to you. That said, and I certainly am not recommending that other people do this, but if I were to try it I would start by cutting the seat post off with an inch or two sticking out from the frame. I would degrease the cavity with a light solvent because that’s only going to get in the way. I would rinse water in and out of the cavity several times until it starts to run fairly clear and then fill it one final time then pour the water into a suitable plastic container so I know how much I need to mix, then *slowly* add the sodium hydroxide. I’d then use a funnel to pour this back into the cavity, of course I will have been wearing the proper PPE the entire time (clothes that I do not mind getting bleached if there is any spatter, proper elbow length gloves, ideally a face shield but at the bare minimum at least safety glasses, and preferably a large space with a fan blowing to me first and then a gentle breeze pushing any fumes away from me), would be working in a well ventilated space, and would have the bike frame very well secured so that it does not unexpectedly tip over and spell the contents. Of course I would not have any kids, pets, or clumsy adults in the working area. I would dump the solution back out every hour and check on progress. You could probably use a formula to get the rate of erosion in tenths of a millimeter per hour. But if I had to guess I think it would probably have removed a significant amount within three or four hours. One benefit of this process is that strong bases are *relatively* benign to steels. That is why rebar properly encased in concrete can last for a very long time, the alkaline environment inhibits corrosion. This would only work on an aluminum tube stuck in a steel frame. If the frame is also made of an aluminum or magnesium alloy it’ll simply eat away at both items equally and cause irreparable damage. Anyways, that’s what I would do. But only because I have a reasonable amount of experience handling strong chemicals. It’s not something that I would recommend that other people do.

Try using wax as in a crayon, use the heat gun to melt the wax and it will wick down the post. Many mechanics and handyman use this

Hello. Is this profile iron 40x40 mm? And how many mm thick is it? Thank you in advance.

Great video and info man Thanks for sharing

Really interesting, I would love to see more experiments. I'm not a mathematician but I think you could apply the law of large numbers to prove whether using WD40 helps or not if you had enough measurements.

You could try muriatic acid to disolve aluminium post in stell frames.

Ehi man great project! Only compliments! Do you have plans for this? I’d buy it straight away. Thanks for the video

I think for my frame, I used a drilled hole, a very large screwdriver, and a hacksaw blade. The old seatpost was definitely destroyed. It took days, but the frame sat out in the rain for several years before I got it.

Interesting video. As a mechanical engineer I'm surprised that scientific software should measure in kg instead of Newton (and not have units on it).

Very interesting video. Wonderful device. Love it!

THANKS! The last video was absolutely painful with the blinding welding light

thank you for putting a hard number on things, they are astounding, if you had just said "multiple tons" without evidence I would never had bilieved it.

That's awesome

So your OCD almost made you scrap project bc of “seam” in foam, but your OCD is okay not spending maybe $3 on some wiring loom? Gotcha! Nothing bad ever happens with metal and electricity. FYI Voltage alone doesn’t make it safe or dangerous. Im just a troll though

lol WD 40 is like the last thing I would choose to remove a stuck something

it was so satisfying to watch thank you.

Love this, and yes more experiments please.

I suspect the need for increasing tension is due to the displaced oxides jamming the gap between post and seat tube. Similar to how corroded threads often jam after breaking free. Reversing direction often clears threads, but doing so to the seatpost is obviously not as easy.

The fact that the puller bent a 12 mm thick steel plate during the extraction process says a lot about the forces involved way before the measurement tool is installed. Awesome work!

Adding heat absolutely works, but using an electric heat gun isn't nearly enough. You have to use a brazing torch or similar. The paint will definitely be severly damaged. and you won't be able to do this on an aluminum frame as you have to heat the metal all the way up to a dull red. Lastly you have to extract the post while the frame is hot.

Look Hans - I pay for KZbin Premium so I don’t need any of your commercials and don’t care what kind of chicken or toilet paper you use so get hip - and usually I don’t like Euros but if the chicks are hot I will hose them down. The Fix - turn the bike upside down - then drill a 1/8 inch(yeah inches as in America and Trump)hole a spray some WD in and poof !

'Appropriate hammer'!