Every year I take my burner apart and clean the electrodes and charge the fuel filter and clean the nozzle . This year it will not ignite. Usually pushing the emergency switch fixes any temporary problems. This time I pressed the switch about 5 times . After watching this video I'm afraid of what could happen if it does ignite. So now what? Suggestions?

Thanks

Great video

Great video

Thank you for making the video!

Just bought a house and furnace is vibrating. Was told shaft is warped?if I clean the blower motor and fan and oil it will it save it for awhile till I can save for a new furnace?

The integrated voltage tester is an interesting feature. Thanks for reviewing. 👍

Klein ones seem to work a bit better but same exact concept about how much wire feeding in

My mother in laws house had a power surge from broken exterior power line …..it fried a few household appliances …. Lennox elite Furnace has no power do you think it could be the transformer?? Circuit breaker is fine and has 110 at furnace

Great explanation

Thank you so much. Good info.

Can we use for air ?

likely the capacitor is not what failed first, probably a welded relay contact or burnt component causing relay latch-up and that smoked the cap by overheating it, by keeping it in circuit too long. which then eventually blew the fuse. not sure the exact failure component, but I'm sure they know exactly what/where. they were supposed to release an high current model, as some of them failed in just months time on units drawing less than their ratings.

dude!!!! i SWEAR to you, i just ran into this TODAY ..wowwwwwwwww! so funny

Is their any way we can talk you into making a home made recovery unit for R134A? While going to school to become a diesel mechanic years ago our instructor showed us his set up at school. I vaguely remember him using a dual type R134a/R12 manifold gauge set, with an extra yellow hose, and an empty R134a tank. But thats all I remember now. For the life of me I cant remember the types of valves he used and the configuration they were set up in. I truly don't remember the process any more. It would save me a ton of money now having to care for 4 vehicles in our household. Our instructor only used the vacuum and no recovery machine.

As an HVACR tech (I specialize more in the commercial refrigeration end so residential AC is not really my daily work so take my opinion with a grain of salt) I would say technically yes it should reduce head pressure and by extension make it SLIGHTLY more efficient but that is only if you can shade the unit without reducing airflow or causing air to recirculate. I personally don't think it is worth the effort and if you cause air recirculation (which the tarp may have cause some air to recirculate) you will actually make it perform significantly worse. Now if you are given the option to place the unit on a shaded side of the building great but I wouldn't go out of my way to do it and any gain from it would likely be so low you wouldn't notice on the light bill.

We have a Coleman oil furnace. It’s been having issues lately stuck in lockout. Im looking into it and noticed the clean out screw / nipple is leaking very small amount. Im guessing the clean out needs cleaning and screw needs tightened. Screw is tight. Don’t want to break it. Tryed to loosen. Any tips trucks appreciated. Im watching your video now

30 yrs here. You got 40 plus so baically u more accurate than fieldpiece sm models anytime😅 ust to do it like it in the 80 s. Beer can per say. As u mention. I m training the newbies n they always goggle everything u teach them n always say. WHy. But Why,,....specially the ones that did not attend Vo tech as u n i did. 5 yrs Vo tech for me i only advice them

Wonderful explanation! You think that may be what has happened to this refrigerator? kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZ3cqpqVprejisk Since it has a coaxial feed/return to the evaporator it feeds it on top and zigzags all the way to bottom before looping back up. I suspect the bottom of that evaporator has a lot of oil in it and the compressor is running dry causing it to pull too much amps.

If you or someone could do this again with a cheap / harbor freight tools type multimeter that might help. In general, my understanding is that NO MATTER WHAT SETTING the multimeter is at, it should read 0 if the old fuse is working. Especially helpful for understanding the buss / bussman fuses that don't have glass. Jesus loves you and many thanks to all!

Also, outdoor coil is a piece of cake to clean. It literally takes like 10 minutes and practically never even needs a chemical. A hex bit and a garden hose is really all you need. (unless it’s an RTU located near a restaurant exhaust fan)

Haven’t watched it yet but I would tend to go with the “if you gotta ask, then the answer is yes” rule.

Mike, you're looking good! Hope all is well! Your favorite student, Shawn Martin.

Theres a plastic tool called the beckett z gauge that makes it so you can adjust how far forward the nozzle is correctly without removing the burner. It also makes adjusting the electrodes easy. It's expensive for a piece of plastic, but you can if you have a 3d printer you can find the file for it online.

Just wondering how many Amps required to start a typical 1/3 HP sump pump with a PSC motor, for example using a generator in a storm.

😎....I'm neither a plumber nor an HVAC tech, but I had my first no heat call of the season...I checked it out and found this video the absolute best match after searching the system's symptoms. For mine, it was some corrosion due to the dampness of the basement along with condensation from the A coil above dripping onto the spreaders. As noted by BrentTech below, getting them out was the toughest part of the otherwise simple job. Thank you for a well done, and informative video. I love fixing stuff myself and not relying on sometimes unprofessional and often overpriced contractors!............. I Liked and I Subscribed to your channel

You're not crazy. There was an academic paper on the effects of cleaning condenser coils several years ago that came to the same conclusion you've come to. Do a Google search for "Skip this chore: Cleaning your air conditioner condenser probably won't make it work better" if you want to find a summary article written by one of the paper's authors.

the air going to the indoor coil is supposed to be properly filter so it doesn't need to be cleaned. real world doesn't always happen

If the dirt is packed between the fins or really thick, clean the coil could make a huge difference. if it is just a thin layer on the surface, probably won't. but since a thin layer of dirt behaves as filter catching even more dirt, should still be cleaned

I install pleated Merv 8 filters in all my customers restaurants and NEVER have any coil as dirty as yours. Just stop using the worthless hog hair filters.

I do the same with my indoor coil, what do you use to clean your indoor?

Hmmm.... Yes, Outdoor coil-cleaning gets most (all?) of the attention (I do it for guiet-running purposes) --- and the Difficulty of doing indoor coil-cleaning looks obvious. That makes me wish there were a set of tools just for that purpose -- sprayers and scrapers, so you can get in those obviously hard to reach places. Otherwise, "echchch".

Always enjoy your content but definitely have to disagree on this one. Perhaps it's because of the regions you've worked in but here in Georgia we always get a lot of new customers every summer from clogged condenser coils alone. I agree that the evaporator coils are probably one of the most overlooked components for cleaning but she ain't going to do much cooling when she's 'going off on high head pressure 😁

I’m in Ohio. Cotton wood from trees will literally cover all 4 sides of the condenser coil. Great video and gets you thinking’s. Thanks!

Condenser coils on commercial units should definitely be cleaned unless they never get dirty on a high roof that's not around trees or pollen. This makes sense for residential units. But even then, I always clean the evaporator coils and then the condenser coils before I leave.

Why is your evaporator clogged like that? Don’t you have a filter before it? My system is over 20 years old, never had to clean the evaporator. The condenser is another story.

I think it really depends on where you are. In a city, outdoor coils can get pretty grungy. Indoor has the benefit of a filter.

Both are heat exchangers and need to be cleaned when needed. Here in North Carolina the outdoor coils get really bad.

Couldn’t be further from the truth here in Oregon. Condensers get plugged frequently.

In Upstate NY the outdoor coil gets covered with pollen. If it hasn't bean cleaned in many years i do see a difference in head pressure.

Here in the south its always the condenser. 9/10 need to be cleaned. Its our biggest call I would say.

Thank you so much for your video, not many videos that asnwer this very important question

Thanks for this. Subscribed.

I use the micro air soft starts. They are more expensive but I think the quality is much better.

My husband Joe and I were riveted by this story 😂

In the last week I installed the ICM 870-16A on my 3 ton Goodman AC. I had seen your short post and others about these units failing. So I reached out to Technical support at ICM and told them I was hesitant to buy their unit based on what I was seeing on the internet. They shared with me that they had an issue with the sizing of the capacitor and had made a design change to address the issue. When I asked how I could be sure to get the updated version they indicated that the new version is now in a new module box that is blue in color and the clean stock would have a white inspection sticker with 2024 printed on it. I purchased mine from a high volume on line distributor and worked out a agreement that if the unit they sent didn’t have the 2024 inspection sticker they would pay return shipping and give me a refund. The unit I received had the sticker. Installed it and captured inrush current before and after with a Pico scope. The rating plate shows LRA to be 77 amps and I measured 77.46 amps with the scope. After installing inrush current dropped to 27.32 amp and I can now easily start the AC with my 7000 watt inverter generator. Hopefully ICMs capacitor change has addressed the reliability.

I have one of each Copeland, ICM and Micro Air. I’ve had no problems for 2 1/2 years off grid.

Well that is not good. I have one still in the box that I was going to install on my 2.5 ton Trane for when my 10 k/9 k on NG generac kicked on. Recently had a 6 hr power outage with outside temps @90f and A/C cycled just fine. House is all NG appliances except A/C

Do you have any opinion of Micro Air’s easy start? I have on on my 3 ton home AC, I’m only into 2 years now of use.

What are you replacing the ICM with? You mention replacing it with ‘this’, but I didn’t see or hear the replacement unit.