240v to 220v . Wanna see me do it, i have a 240v circuit and BAM! now its 220v. Wanna see it again lmfao

Thanks for your info❤️❤️

Remember people, even though this is a step by step guide, it's for demonstration purposes only.

Just replaced mine thanks to this video. Thank you!!

Did that permanently fix your ac problem?

Maybe… just put the oil cap back on instead of stuffing it?

Why didn't you explain all the connections to the outlet? Your video was a waste of time

Did coolant run out when you removed the sensor? Did you drain coolant first?

Be nice to tell everyone its a 2.4 at the start..TITLE.... good way to get viewers.... Wasted my 1 minute....

I can't see the work you're doing on the beaakers from my house 😂 Otherwise 9 stars

Hey you can also just unbolt the windshield washer reservoir for access

How much did the sensor cost?

Only good in the USA. Can't do this in foreign countries which standard voltage is 220.

Nice job. Thank you

Hi! Thank for taking time to create this video. I am having this exact issue with my 2010 Malibu LTZ. So, did it completely fix the problem?

MY i ask why was there not a neutral wire in that plug ? Shouldnt there be a green black red and a white.

We have an orange and a brown wire. Which one goes to the OB and where does the other one go? Our 'pro' installer did something not right, and it blows hot air only.

4:33 You have to wrap the wires around the nut you don’t just tuck the wire underneath the nut you need a secure connection lose wires cause the circuit to trip and arcs which can cause fires.

Nice job. Explained perfectly. Thank you!

may I ask you are saying 240 v. into 220 ??? even the captions say it I am confused

Green is first priority

On the metal box, the mud ring is mounted backwards. You should not be using a mud ring for this application, you need an industrial box cover, the receptacle is then mounted to the cover. Keep in mind, by installing a duplex GFCI receptacle, your circuit is no longer a dedicated one. This may be fine, just something to be aware of. If this is not necessarily a dedicated circuit, a 15 amp GFCI receptacle would be appropriate, but the 20 amp one is okay. If this circuit is to remain dedicated, the receptacle must be changed to a single 20 amp receptacle or a single 20 amp GFCI receptacle to be code compliant. Box covers for 4" square boxes are made for single, duplex, 2 gang receptacles, and switches.

Ay mike, thank you for video of (ect) sensor. Man I did everything right. just didn't (REBOOT BATTERY WISE) have a bro. Inlaw that said I didn't have to reboot, so I let it be. didn't work for 2 weeks, my girl sufferd, Anyhow its been on my mind since I saw yours video. today i talk to Mr. know it all, bro. inlaw that I was going to reboot battery and he actually agreed and did IT for me and guess what A/C.... HALLELUJAH, 🙏 THANXS MIKE . take care

Re strip your wires 🤦‍♂️

Thanks for doing this video. This is exactly what is happening with my 2010 Malibu. I'm not brave enough to do this repair myself but at least I'll know something is up if the repair shop tells me that they have to take 10 hours to disassemble half the engine to get to the sensor.

I appreciate what you’re trying to do in this video but the parts where your body blocks the camera are the most important parts of the entire video.

i’m super late, but i’m having the same issue with my 2009 chevy malibu, check engine light, temp gauge not working, AC will blow but wont blow cold AC, i changed the part, and it’s still not working, i didn’t disconnect battery after changing it though, so could that still be the issue?

Great video .... what tool and size did you use to get the old sensor out? Is there a bolt next to it holding it in place or use a deep socket?

What

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I found Danco hammer stop technology washing machine connector hoses on Amazon that quiet down the hammer down and I just insulated my 1/2 inch copper tubing on the cold and hot lines to stop them from shaking . I hope this works for me.

Thank u sir 👍

No reason to cut the wires before you remove the back plate of the thermostat. Just take the screws out of the back plate and pull it forward to see how much slack you have to work with behind the wall. If you have zero slack you’re going to wish you did not cut those wires trust me I’ve been there

sorry in my thermostat the black cable is in the letter B all the others are fine I only have a doubt in the black one thank you very much

yeah buddy davenport west in the house

Would this give the same results as a step down or converter or would it give a better result?

I would not attempt this without first measuring the voltages on the 220 volt outlet and carefully examining the breaker box to be sure I knew exactly what I was going to do before I shut off the power. That is as far as I have gone with my project so far. In my case there are four wires on the 220 V: 110 V at 0 degrees (black), 110 V at 180 degrees (red), neutral (red with white tape) and ground (bare copper). The 220 volts in the socket is between the two phases of 110, and it is breakered at 30 A. My goal is to remove a stovetop and run a small 110 V electric heater about three feet away. It looks like all I have to do is run a bit of romex from the location of the stovetop to the heater, being careful to match the wire gauge. Ideally I would like to also add another kitchen outlet for the new appliances that replace the stovetop. I think it should work all right, probably should replace the double 30 A breaker with two single 20 A breakers. Also I need to label everything clearly in case anyone else will ever work on this mess.

I installed them and the water hammering is the same

Finally, this guy made a video to the point. Thanks, Mike

We have installed the thermostat, but now our system keeps turning on and off. Thoughts on troubleshooting?

How about if you need a 110 off your well pump wires which doesn't have a neutral

Great video. I was just wondering.... I have a heat pump. But it also has a blue, brown, and black wire. Any thoughts? When I test the heat, the compressor comes on for about 5 seconds, then stops, then comes back on again...

I have a 120V duplex receptacle that is split between two breakers. The red wire going into the top screw and the black wire going into the bottom. I want a split surge protector receptacle, but they don't exist. Is it possible to somehow wire two surge protector receptacles side by side on the two separate circuits? I need it for a bit of a complicated setup with a generator, well pump, freezer, and UV light. Our generator isn't powerful enough to power the well pump and fridge/freezer simultaneously.

Maybe focus more on the project than yourself

You only need two screws

Thank you for taking the time to produce this video I'm sure it'll be helpful to many as it has been to me . If you would allow me to make a suggestion; the left or right side, the front or back side of a vehicle is established as if one was sitting in the driver's seat. Therefore the engine coolant temperature sensor is actually on the left side of the engine.

Next time you make a video make it with close-ups because this is no good I say to you this because I'm a master electrician if you want to make a video and post it make sure you do close-ups because by you just talking about it and you're 20 ft away from the receptacle the camera is you cannot see what you're doing and people out there don't know what they're doing half of the time so I suggested you make the video better because all you could do is create a hazard that's why you put that little warning for that you wouldn't get yourself in trouble please do it properly next time thank you very much all City lighting electrical

What happened to the 3rd wire. The outlet had 3 breaker box X2.

Thank you for your video. I have a 30amp 220v box for my electric oven. Can I get a regular 120v plug from it?

Hopefully this help cause my car is still blown cold air it only stopped once but starting blowing cold air again. so i got it checked and it said its a sensor problem