@mvecellio1 thank you very much, Mike.

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for letting me know.

Thanks?

@@mortensen-guitars1289 well, thank you very much!

@@5barkerstreet thanks for watching

Thank you very much!

.thanks for letting me know, Dave. I'm glad it helped.

Thanks a lot. My hands don't hurt too much. Yet.

Thank you!

@mvecellio1 thanks Mike.

@billywhizz7928 thanks. Happy new year to you, too.

I'm glad you enjoyed the series! Thank you for taking the time to watch the videos and for subscribing to my channel. A guitar just like this one costs $7500.

Thanks for watching

Good to know, thanks.

I use the Gloss Instrument Lacquer from Seagrave Coatings Corp.

I got them from japarts.ca. They have a pretty wide selection in the "rosette" section of their website. Shipping from Japan cost just as much as the rosette sticks, but I don't know of any alternative.

@zimnickiguitars311 Thank you so much for the info!

@systemglitch1523 happy to help!

@billywhizz7928 thank you!

There's always a risk that the instrument will be slammed to the shop floor. I have only had that happen one time though, thanks to my lightening fast reflexes.

It happens too often for me, too! I don't keep track, but probably on around half of my instruments I end up having to do a little bit of air brushing. I rarely need to spray the entire thing. As far as coats go, that's a difficult question simply because the amount of lacquer that is applied with each spray depends on 1) the viscosity of the material, 2) the spray pattern of the nozzle, and 3) the speed at which my arm moves. Technically, it is all just one coat since the new material melts into the older stuff. However, you probably want to know that I generally spray every other day for 4 days and on each of those 4 days, I point my spray gun at the instrument 5 times. This ends up building just enough of a film to let me sand and buff without many breakthroughs. I don't sand between sprays unless I see something in the finish.

@@zimnickiguitars311 Thank you so much! That is very helpful. I am interested in learning more about your spraying. If you are willing to share details. Gun, psi, nozzle tip size etc. Also what lacquer you prefer and how you mix or thin it. Once again thanks for ALL your videos.

@@mikekeystonefl I use an HVLP system from Apollo. Being HVLP, there is no psi setting. It uses a #2 nozzle, in Apollo nomenclature, but I don't know how that compares to a compressed air system's gun. I prefer Seagraves Coating's Gloss Instrument Lacquer. I comes ready to spray; doesn't need to be thinned.

@rickhenry8760 I think the iron was at the middle setting, but I have no idea what the temperature would be. I use an app called Guitar Tuna. I'm glad you liked the video, thanks for letting me know.

Thanks 👍

@donerskine7935 😀 not a fan, huh? The one I worked on definitely seemed to have been built with lowest possible cost as a priority.

@@zimnickiguitars311 My guitar was not so much a guitar, more a crime against humanity.

I know what you mean! My first guitar was an Egmond by Rosetti Airstream 2. Pretty dreadful really, but you have to start somewhere. A friend of mine who knew a lot more about guitars than me (I knew nothing at all) did some work on the action and fitted a micromatic bridge, because the intonation was awful, and it became bearable. I saved up some money, got rid of it and bought a Burns Split Sonic, sold that and bought a 1958 Strat, which obviously I should have kept, but sold it in 1974 for £135 to raise some money towards a house deposit!

@@southsidearno7141 danke

@@NotExpatJoe thank you.

@@reijerlincoln yes, certainly in times before they were well known.

Thank you very much. I'm afraid that a good cleaning might end up removing most of the remaining finish!

@bobfrankish8883 Thanks for watching, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Sorry I don't have more information about the guitar and its history.

Yes, after I finished the video, it did occur to me that someone may have set up the guitar for slide playing. Thanks for your comment.

@bradleyclosson5042 CA glue would have set too fast and I would not have been able to work it deep into the layers by squeezing and releasing the body. Also, I'm not sure that ca would have held up over time. I gets brittle. Lastly, the surface clean-up would be a lot more difficult with ca glue.

I don't know if the bridge was built that way strictly for cost consideration, or if they had to be careful of patent infringements, or something else. I works, but it certainly isn't very stable.

That is easy to believe. They built a serviceable, guitar that could be available to a lot of people.

Thanks for watching.

@@zimnickiguitars311 i am looking forward to the next one :)

​@jamesjohanson5675 perhaps in a day or two. Thanks

@billywhizz7928 thanks for watching.

Grinnell's had horrible Crestwood guitars when I was a kid. Amazing how much better cheap guitars are now.

Yes!

Thanks! 👍

I find that 3 mm works for all of the usual ukulele scales even though there is about a 6" difference between the soprano and the baritone size.

I try to keep the bridge as simple as possible and an 8 hole wrap around bridge would be fairly complicated. There is not a lot of difference in the diameter of the 4 strings, so there, so a slanting saddle to compensate individual strings isn't really necessary. I have made them with compensated saddles sometimes, but have not noticed any difference in intonation.

@@alsguitars5127 Madagascar rosewood.

@billywhizz7928 thank you! Pore filling is always a pain, but this is the best method I have found.

@mvecellio1 thank you, Mike.

Thank you. It's beautiful under the finish, but I won't be getting to that video for a few weeks. Please stay tuned!

@@billywhizz7928 classic 60s!