The reason the trigger goes dead is because that set-screw in the trigger backs out even with blue loctite applied. It’s a set screw inside of a spring that pushes that catch-shoe to grab the back of the hammer, not only that, but the disconnect itself on the bottom of the hammer is to shallow and prone to slipping. Stay away from this expensive turd, my friend learned his lesson.

Indeed, verbiage does matter!

@@kikibarrios1231 we should be labeling our third positions as fsa, but auto is accurate to a clone build, and these frt’s are a retro rifle lovers wet dream🤣, so let us dream

@@victordeloera3137 go to any gun show. You can usually find people playing videos on iPads or other devices and you will hear some automatic fire. Then ask for them. That’s how I ended up with 8 of them now

I’d avoid this trigger, check the other comments for my detailed explanation.

@@blpil no this one was incognito. But now they have a new name.

@@logangauge I’ll tell you now I am in support if this technology, BUT, I had a friend who had his lock bar shank break at 3,000 rounds. This thing is a safety liability. The semi portion of the trigger has a shoe that is supposed to catch the hammer in its semi-position. The design of that is bad because the “adjustable” trigger weight is held in by a set screw and a spring that WILL back-out EVEN WITH BLUE LOCTITE! When that spring goes missing, that short set-screw will not hold it, however getting a longer set screw would make it work still. The issue being is that will put pressure on the threads of that trigger assembly and strip out the threads, turning the semi mode back into the forced reset mode. This means that while it IS a 3-position trigger, if that part fails, it is going to go to that mode. Another inconsistency with this design is the lock bar itself, the entire thing is NOT made from Hardox steel as it claims to be. I took an old steel to my friend’s trigger hammer and trigger and it GENTLY ran it across it, it scratched the heck out of it, meaning it is ALUMINUM!! I would avoid this until someone makes this in both superior design and material. For my friend, this thing is a turd.

@@logangauge Short answer, the reason the trigger is dead is because that screw needs to be tightened in the housing. I can tell immediately that is the issue, but because if a dumb design, it won’t always work because as mentioned, it is a SPRING INSIDE OF a set screw, the spring WILL DESTROY itself, rendering the semi from not working and just operating as a forced reset only mode, better design and materials is what is needed, be careful with that thing!!

@@logangauge If you need to know more, let me know.

@@logangauge The lock bar itself will get damaged pretty fast from the bolt carrier group, my buddy’s has divots in the back of his bar that will only worsen due to the inferior metals used in its creation.

@@desertpinoy5616 I have a 3 position on another rifle. Plan to build another with a 3 position in the future

@@logangauge since the wot and frt kind of use the same springs check on militia state armory for their springs, I’m pretty sure they have a better spring that’s stronger for the triggers. Also I think it’s best that you use the a5 stock system and the double coil spring in tandem. The only trick is that you’d need an h1 a5 rifle buffer if you’re gonna use it in combo with a 20 inch upper or 18 inch upper.

@@declineofthewest. if you have questions I can answer any you may have.