Great question! When using gallows brackets to remove a chimney breast, the key is ensuring the load is properly supported before you start. Typically, temporary props or supports are placed under the top half of the chimney to bear the weight while the gallows brackets and the supporting plate are being installed. These props hold the weight of the chimney until the brackets are securely fixed and the plate can be slid into place. Once everything is properly supported and the brackets are in position, the temporary supports can be removed. It's important to do this carefully to avoid any risk of collapse during the process.

Thank you mate :)

Yes, there are 6mm insulating boards available that can be glued directly onto walls. However, when installing insulated plasterboard, the thicker board (usually around 12.5mm to 25mm) provides better insulation and durability, especially for areas that need more thermal or soundproofing. While gluing a thinner board might seem easier, you might sacrifice performance in the long run. It’s always a balance between ease of installation and the insulation you need.

Whether or not you need planning permission for a garage conversion depends on a few factors. If you're only changing the garage into a living space (like a bedroom, small kitchen, and shower room) without altering the external appearance too much, you might be able to do it under Permitted Development rights. However, once you start making changes like adding a window where the garage door is or putting in plumbing for a shower and toilet, it could require planning permission. It's always a good idea to check with your local council to make sure you're meeting building regulations and to confirm whether planning permission is needed, especially with the changes you're making. Better safe than sorry!

Hello, thank you for your comment, in the next video I will state the conversion costs.

thank you for your comment, in the next episode we can discuss the budget.

Cutting the rods in half to 90mm depth should still work, but it’s not ideal. Ideally, you want them inserted deeper for better effectiveness. If possible, use full-length rods or add more for better coverage.

Thank you for your comment, so great question! A suspended wooden floor is typically raised off the ground with ventilation space underneath. This allows air to circulate, helping to prevent dampness. The floor joists sit on bearers, which are supported by brick or concrete piers. The gap under the floor is crucial for airflow, keeping the floor dry and preventing rot.

Thank you mate we are very glad you enjoyed.

Thank you for your comment, Good questions! If you have a solid brick wall, you can insulate it using internal insulation like PIR boards or insulated plasterboard, or even by adding a stud wall with insulation between the studs. Both options help improve thermal performance without needing to affect the external appearance. Creating your own cavity (by adding a layer of insulation and a plasterboard finish) does slightly reduce the floor area, but the effect is minimal, usually around 50-75mm depending on the insulation type. As for External Wall Insulation (EWI), it’s a great option for improving insulation and reducing heat loss, especially on solid walls. It keeps the thermal mass of the wall inside and can be very effective, but it does change the external appearance, so it’s important to check with your local council before proceeding :)

Welcome to the industry! Great question. Condensation issues can arise with internal wall insulation if it's not installed properly, mainly because the warm air inside the room can condense on cold surfaces. To tackle this, it's important to use a vapour control layer (VCL) to prevent moisture from getting trapped between the insulation and the wall. Also, you want to ensure proper ventilation in the room, as this helps reduce the risk of moisture buildup. Using breathable insulation materials like PIR boards or insulated plasterboard with a VCL can really help prevent condensation. It's all about managing moisture levels properly!

Really glad you enjoyed :)

Hello, we can help of course, normal travel costs are applied :)

After installing the damp proofing rods, any damp plaster is removed. Then, you can re-plaster with a waterproof render or salt-resistant plaster once the wall is dry.

Really glad you enjoyed, as each project is different the price can differ, but in the next video we can run through the costs.

Thank you for your comment, so the price can always vary depending on the spec and requirements from the client, but in the next episode we can discuss projected costs you can expect from a project like this.

Hit the nail on the head, and you're right, we never want dusty holes :)

Stud walls should go in after the screed has fully dried. Installing them too soon could trap moisture, leading to issues like warping or mould.

Thank you for your message, we have taken this on board and will implement this going forward :)

Hello mate, of course, if you fill out this form and we can get started. (bit.ly/Get_Hype)