Yes, sort of. I based the station on the Charles Holden style of architecture and I took inspiration from Rayners Lane/Acton Town/Sudbury Town. The stairway is definitely Rayners Lane. The signal cabin is based on the one at Amersham. Thank you for your comment.

@@ianbenson5773 I’ve just used the standard curved rail pieces. If you’re tight on space you could just have a train running in a straight line back and forth. I made a video on how to do that too kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYnYqWN7qdRppq8si=X4AlL1HBhIYsVb1H

@@mocerhead8966 thanks. That’s what I was planning and have watched your video on that which was very helpful. 8 Lego curves just looked much wider than your video. Happy New Year and thanks for replying

@@ianbenson5773 good luck with it and a happy new year to you too

@@mocerhead8966just watched it again. How many curves made up your circuit at the end

@@ianbenson5773 8 at each end

@@cxp2391 thank you, wishing you a happy new year!

@@WelcometoEuphoria Thanks Max

@@alexlilly2385 cheers mate, I can’t find my mic so I’m having to use the iPad’s built in one

@mocerhead8966 I think you should just shout the whole way through 😆

@ 🤣🤣🤣

Haha I wish!

@@petermaris9697 tbh I haven’t tried with the remote so I can’t really tell you. I think it can be done but it’s not something that I’ve looked into. As a guess I think you would need the colour sensor as I can’t see the timer working correctly if it’s stopped/started by the remote.

@mocerhead8966 OK well I'll give it a go. You've showed me how. Something I can test during the Christmas break.

@@petermaris9697 excellent, I’m interested to see how you get on

Hi Henry, without seeing it it’s hard to diagnose. All I can think of is have you double checked you’re in the right port. Check the plug is in port A and check the motor code block is showing A.

@ Thanks for the tip. It’s definitely in port A. I’ve also tried it in port B and nothing.

@@nlardy it’s a bit of trial and error with what colour tiles to use depending on the lighting conditions. Most shows that I do I use red, green, and yellow. I’ve found the museums can be tricky places as light tends to bounce of shiny things and confuse the sensor. I’d say avoid blue as the sensor can confuse it with the grey of the track

@@kevwatson8787 I’ve not really come up with an optimal distance for the sensor, it’s usually dictated by the guts of the train of where I can mount it. I do have similar issues from show to show with colours not being picked up properly, this is usually because of lighting conditions. I have found red, green, and yellow reasonably reliable.

@ yeah, the lighting definitely makes a difference; natural sunlight seems to give better results than the electric lights.

@@santa07_ Sorry for the delay in answering you. I had set 60197 but never added a colour sensor to it as I used the set for parts. But I’v had a look at the instructions and I think it can be done but with some modification. The sensor will fit in square holes in the train base, you’ll need a bracket 44728 and a 1x2 brick to mount it. I would remove the red tiles on the base to expose the second square hole and reroute the train motor lead through that. The bottom panel area between the wheels and motor will have to be modified or just totally removed to allow the colour sensor to be mounted. Hope this makes sense

@@mocerhead8966 No problem, thanks a lot for the help, im going to do it and come back later

@@paulmason6847 thanks Paul. Unfortunately this is one of the big drawbacks with the 2 port PU hub, you can’t have 3 functions off it. The technic 4 port one can but it’s far too big for trains and trams. If you just want the interior of the tram lit up it might be worth getting light bricks from Game of Bricks. They are 2x2 bricks and use a watch battery so quite compact.

@@mocerhead8966 I have ordered a short extension for one of the hub ports and will splice into it rather than the motor or sensor then feed the 9v via 5vdc step down board

@@MikeB_UK Thanks Mike. I should have taken the stops off for this video. They are there in case the train’s colour sensor fails to see the coloured tile and carries on to the end. At shows this would mean the train falling off the table and crashing on the floor.

@@mocerhead8966 Thanks. I don't think I phrased my question very well. What are they made out of? I couldn't find anything similar when I did a search. They look a lot neater than big lego buffer stops and I wanted to copy your idea!

@@MikeB_UK they’re just a 1x2 slope, 1x1 brick, and a 1x2 tile on the top joining them together

Good for slow speed such as my 1973 stock, anything faster and I don’t know how effective they’ll be

@@mocerhead8966 Thanks. I couldn't work them out from the video.

@@davidcoleman3773 i had to make them myself. It’s on a MS Word doc. I can email it to you if you let me know your address

@@WelcometoEuphoria thanks Max. It was a good show and layout went down well. The QR bill board does come in handy to point people to my web stuff

@@Casper-g4i yes I’ll do that. I was a bit rushed when I took this as the show was about to open. Also, I used my iPad to film and it’s not as good as my phone

@@Trainz_4U I’ll have to google it and see

@@mocerhead8966alright

@@Surfersofthesouthwest I’ll have a go soon

Thx

@@WelcometoEuphoria yes mate, watch this space

@@cjjones7270 Thank you for your comment. Without pictures of your train it’s hard to see if there is anything obviously wrong. This is a heavy lump of a train so it is not the fastest and uses a bit of power. I always use EBL AAA rechargeable batteries and these last pretty well, especially at shows. I will get a good 6 hours of constant run time with this particular train at shows. I get these from Amazon and they are pretty cheap. As for cost, everyone knows that Lego ain’t cheap and MOC trains doubly so. I understand your frustration as I have been there many times. This train has been through many iterations to get to this stage, it may change again depending on what technology Lego bring out next. With issues regarding the building/running of the train it may be better to comment on rebrickable, I think you can leave photos on there which would be helpful. As a tip, which I haven’t mentioned before, use traction bands on the driving wheels. I use small hair bands or you can use loom bands. These make a big difference with traction. With the side plates I’m assuming you mean the parts that’s supposed to represent the traction pick up bar. Yes, they are not the sturdiest as it is only held on by one stud. Mine stay on whist running but they do fall off when being transported from show to show.

@@HarleeEvans-j2n a link for the instructions is in the description. The instructions are free to download

No not yet

Can you do that next please

Excellent! Is there a link to any photos of it? I’d love to see it

Thank you so much. This video shows the whole layout in a bit more detail kzbin.info/www/bejne/gp7OkKN6hp6LmtUsi=zcfTITnNpwrMWnt3

No, but it’s a fairly standard bricks up build with no tricky SNOT techniques. Just need a lot of dark tan tiles

Thanks! I'll make my own custom one.

I will do eventually but I’ve got a couple of projects on the go right now

@@mocerhead8966 These projects are just amazing