Ben, you didn't indicate what your typical WOT static rpm is with the expansion chamber exhaust system, nor the pitch and diameter of the prop. Density altitude also has an effect. My engine has the Red-Head modification to it's cylinder (cylinder top is cut off, and a higher-compression head is mated to the cylinder as in a typical air-cooled MX bike and/or kart engine (KT100 / KA100). I have also done quite a bit of porting work and substantially reduced the mass of the piston. As mentioned before, I have the WB-39 carb in place that offers far better mixture adjustment and more air-flow due to it's larger venturi. My typical WOT static rpm is 9700-9850 rpm, depending on A/F tune. If I tune it to the ragged edge (max CHT, max EGT), I can attain 9850 rpm static. My typical 'safer' A/F tune is right around 9700-9750 rpm where it's RoP (rich of peak). The prop is a carbon Bolly one-piece of 22.5"x54". The measured chord angles and resultant calculated pitches actually vary a bit from the root to the tips; 21" pitch at the root, 22.5" at 75% of the radius, and 22" at the tips. The fastening of the prop hub on the prop-shaft does have about 10-12 degrees of backlash due to the imperfect fit of the retaining bolt. It's likely losing at least 100 rpm because of that backlash. Same thing happens if there is any torsional flex in the prop-shaft. One thing is very apparent though, and that is about 15 seconds after the engine attains max WOT rpms, it begins to lose rpms at a rate of about 10 rpms per second. The WOT rpms come right back up to max after releasing the throttle to around 75% for a few seconds, then WOT again. I have had a few theories about the cause of this, but none have solved the situation completely. My latest theory is that the exhaust gasses within the expansion chamber and the chamber's steel shell become too hot (for the chamber's length) so that the pressure waves travel too fast within the chamber and end up cramming too much spent exhaust gas into the combustion chamber before the piston closes the exhaust port. The proposed solution for this is a little involved and I won't delve into this right now. A little feed-back from Ben would be cool.🙂

That contraption looks to have many ways to fail . The propeller could get you, or the wing, or all those wires.

Coolest way to fly.

Fantastic, how many hp and or how much thrust are you getting? Thanks!

Ben, it would be great if you could post a vid detailing your fuel delivery system. If your pump is near the carb, then the pump is likely creating vapor bubbles in the line preceding the pump due to the low pressure it's creating in the line, especially if it's pulsed on and off. Try putting the pump at the fuel tank outlet, or even inside the tank. That way the whole line is pressurized. If using the pump with a carb, you might want to add a fuel return line with an inline 0.5 or 1.0 psi-opening check valve to help keep the fuel pressure to the carb as steady as possible. McMaster-Carr has some very inexpensive (~$1.50-$3.00) check-valves that are good with fuels and alcohols. I have a 0.5psi check-valve in my fuel-return line for at least 16 months now and it's been problem-free.... but I'm always using 100LL fuel. I'm using a 0.5 psi valve so that the added fuel pressure doesn't over-pressurize the fuel metering valve/spring since I have adjusted that for a 10 psi pop-off and 7 psi reset. I also have a 1-cup (236 cc) header tank that feeds directly into the carb and separates any vapor bubbles from the fuel. The fuel return line attaches at the top of this header tank and flows back to the main tank, via the check valve. I also have a manometer on a tee just before the check valve to check for fuel line pressure. As mentioned before, I have a pulse-actuated fuel pump (walbro/mikuni) that feeds the header tank. The pump is actuated by the pressure variation within the intake manifold. The pulse line must be quite short for the pump to work properly at high rpms.... about 5 cm long for providing increasing fuel pressures up to ~9800rpm -- shorter for higher rpms, line length measured from the interior surface of the manifold to the interior surface of the pump's vacuum cavity. It behaves much like a Helmholtz resonator. It can be a bugger to find enough room for the pump with the short pulse line, but it works well especially at high rpms. And yes, the pump does create vapor bubbles in the line from the main tank, but those bubbles are collapsed after going threw the pump or evacuated by the header tank and sent back to the main tank.

What you're describing in your vid description and the engine's sound in the vid is a classic excessively-lean A/F condition. The engine seems to sound strong at first during the launch, but then begins to loose power and then sounding a bit erratic. I would have landed immediately to save the piston and to re-tune the carb. Spend a few bucks and get a better carb (WB-37c) so that you can properly tune the low- and high-speed circuits without taking the whole thing apart like you'd have to with the WG-8/10. Still, there is internal tuning of the fuel metering valve/spring/lever-height, but that is a normally one-shot deal once you get it right that is easily done during the first few run-up tests with the carb. Then, all you need to do is to Tune the needles before every flight. That takes about 30 seconds for me to accomplish correctly after the engine is warmed-up to where the CHT = ~280-300 degrees F. Hopefully you have a CHT/EGT on your engine. You should be monitoring those. A lean condition will typically increase CHT but will reduce EGT. A rich condition will help lower CHT but will also lower EGT. The best A/F ratio for most power and protection will have a CHT that is a little higher than a rich condition would provide, and the EGT would be at temps that are higher than any other A/F condition. Your CHT was likely climbing very quickly to over 400 deg F while the engine was stumbling while the EGT was comparatively low -- a destructive condition that you should have seen. I've been there and luckily made a good choice in landing immediately. Still, the bottom of the piston deck was scorched and the rings had micro-welding on them. The piston deck and combustion chamber squish band showed much evidence of auto-ignition (AKA 'detonation') due to the lean A/F condition. Hopefully I'm wrong, but if you continue to pursue fuel-injection in this engine, you're going to be replacing a lot of pistons and cylinders before you get everything working correctly. If you could find the appropriate knock sensor with the correct resonant frequency detection and one that you can connect to the controller and program the A/F mixture to no-knock conditions, it might be able to save your engine. I'd connect a lambda sensor temporarily until I could get the correct values from the knock sensor for good A/F management. All this depends upon DA pressures, air temps, and relative humidities as well, so plenty of sensors have to be addressed and providing good numbers. I've been developing a flight computer that does all of that, along with gps and datalogging all of the sensors. Just finished making it bulletproof against the un-shielded, non-resistor ignition system. I wanted to develop the hardware so that it would be absolutely immune to rfi/emi, and so it is now.

Many people would love to see you flying bro unfortunately youtube algorithm only see this as "man in a hang glider" and don't really advertise your video thinking it is just a repeat upload. So with new thumbnails with text on each video upload really helps in order for youtube algorithm to see these uploads as new ones and not mistaken for a re-upload video. Based on my experience as an editor. Really love what you're doing. Thanks for sharing your flights.

That looks enjoyable 😊

You may want to add a manometer (teed and vertical tubing with a valve) after your external fuel pump to verify that the fuel pressure is what you expect. I installed a Mikuni diaphragm pulse pump (pulse from intake manifold pressure fluctuations) to add pressure to my carb, with a return line to the fuel tank via a 1psi check valve. I put a manometer just after carb, teed to the fuel return line to verify that it's generating ~1psi fuel pressure to the carb throughout the full rpm range. I use a manual valve to isolate the manometer from the fuel system when flying or when not in need of verifying fuel pressures. Also, check that the fuel tank's ventilation system is venting absolutely freely. If it's stock, it's likely that it has a spring check valve in the vent system and that valve doesn't open unless there is some vacuum in the tank, which is NOT good and may create fuel starvation issues. I made a completely open tank ventilation system that can be closed by a manual valve when not flying. As I indicated in another vid of yours, I've been running 24:1 100LL/Motul 800 road-bike 2t oil. I popped the cylinder head off this weekend and was amazed at the condition of the piston deck and head. Even after idling the engine for much of the time, with a 30-second WOT to clean out the carbon on the ground, the piston deck was very clean, the head had just a slight smear of soft carbon in the dome that easily wiped off. The squish band was completely clean. Plug was tan-colored with a black ring at the insulator base. The caveat is that I had retarded the ignition to 21 degrees BTDC because I had made the squish clearances as close as possible (0.45mm) and wanted to keep internal CHT temps to the minimum for the time being until I know that there won't be any interference problems due to heat-related lengthening of the con-rod. So far so good. I am planning on advancing the timing to around 24 degrees BTDC. At stock timing (26.2 degrees), typically I see 9700-9800 rpm static with a 54 x 22.5" pitch prop, but with the timing retarded, it's only getting to ~9400 rpm.

It appeared that the winds aloft were around 25 mph compared to your gps ground speeds, but smooth sailing! Yee Ha! Nice flights for being so late in the day! Yeah, falcons are almost telepathic in handling and so easy to drop into a small field, but they're slow and drop out of the sky! Fly that ultrasport more and you'll soon enjoy that glider more than the falcon. When you pop the top, I'd also look at the bottom side of the piston deck to see if it was getting too hot and leaving burnt oil (brown or black residue). Also take the rings off and check for any micro-welding on the rings' upper and lower surfaces and pitting on the ring-lands. Both conditions indicate too-lean A/F mixtures. If you do see micro-welding on the rings, I would consider replacing the piston and rings. Those little aluminum welded bits on the ring surfaces will key into the pits on the ring-lands and prevent the rings from moving and flexing as they should. This will lead to less piston-heat transfer to the cylinder walls and allow the piston to get too hot, hot enough to expand too far and possibly cause more friction and then seizure, not to mention less compression. I like to see a perfectly shiny-aluminum inside bottom piston deck that indicates that the piston wasn't getting heat-soaked and the top deck wasn't getting too hot. Rings should look almost new, with no discoloration of the piston sides below the top ring. Otherwise, again, too hot = too lean. Those WG series carbs are infamous for high-rpm lean-condition trouble, even when tuned as best as possible without enlarging the high speed jet orifice.

I have tried Maxima 927 at 24:1 for a couple tank-fulls. It's very good and relatively clean if you're running the engine at or close to WOT most of the time. But if you're cruising at ~7000 rpm with a relatively cool CHT, it builds carbon deposits that are HARD! I have used Maxima K2 at the same ratio and it leaves less carbon, and it's a softer carbon that is easily scraped off. 927 is much harder to remove. Recently I purchased some 'Motul 800 Factory Line Road-racing 2T' from a retailer through amazon (gasp!) and I've put 2 tanks through at 24:1 ratio after cleaning the piston deck and cylinder head. So far I have only viewed the piston deck condition through the sparkplug hole, but preliminary indications are that it is quite clean, since the Motul 800's flash-point is 525 deg F, so theoretically it's not going to leave much carbon residue. After next flight I will pop the cylinder-head (Red-Head) off and take a better look.

looks fun

Good to see you back in the air! I'm guessing your engine has the WG series carb with the choke plate. The problem with using a choke instead of merely priming the carb with the metering diaphragm, is that with the choke closed, the fuel is pushed up into the engine's crankcase, then flows down into the cylinder and floods the spark plug. If you stop the engine with the choke, it does the same thing. I use a WB-39, a slightly larger venturi than the WB37. Neither have chokes. I rigged up a remote primer control to prime the engine and to stop the engine. Priming the carb does not force fuel up into the engine, so I can never flood the engine. Because the carb is situated such that it is somewhat like an up-draft carb as in most GA aircraft, it would be VERY difficult to flood the engine with too much fuel. My engine takes but one, maybe two pulls of the recoil starter. Hot, warm or cold. Doesn't matter. As long as I properly prime the carb and crack open the throttle just a bit, it fires up on the first pull. The spark plug NEVER gets wet. The first suggestion I would say is to purchase a WB-37c carb and fabricate a remote primer. The second suggestion would be to keep the WG carb, even if it is a POS, and delete the choke (fill the choke plate shaft journals with epoxy) and rig up a remote primer control. Actually, you don't have to delete the choke. Just detach it's control and use it for the primer control. However, my WB-39 was modified by the first owner of my Explorer (Gerry Farell) to have a choke plate. I found that by deleting the plate, I gained 300 rpm at WOT. Obviously, the choke assembly adds a lot of drag to the incoming air flow. Hope this helps.

Bummer! Hope the prop hub wasn't damaged. Those folding props are becoming almost as rare as hen's teeth. Same with the non-folding Bolly's. My Explorer has a telescoping 'drag strut' that connects the carabiner to the cross member of the harness frame, just in front of the engine. It allows for about 5" of rearward travel of the carabiner in relation to the harness, thus preventing any interference between the prop disk and the glider, except perhaps if the harness is yawed too far in relation to the glider's keel. It's saved my carbon Bolly one-piece prop and glider a few times. I've seen some pictures of older Mosquitos with some sort of a drag strut as well. Reminds me of the AllState commercials with Dean Winters.... "be protected from Mayhem like me...." Hate to say this, but this vid is a great lesson for all of us..... Don't tempt Mayhem if you have any doubts and/or conditions are questionable.

damn it got the wing.. Glad you're ok though, close call. Good to see you unharmed

Hey. Paraglider pilot here that flys out of moontown sometimes. Heading over this afternoon. Interesting rig you got there. Hope to see it sometime.

I like how your legs are fully in the harness for full control of the harness and both hands are on the control bar on close approach. I know that I would have difficulty getting both my hands high enough on the downtubes quickly enough for a proper upright push for the flare. At least you have maximum control authority if you enter a bubble within ground effect. I've done that a couple times, being launched up again even with a lot of pitch control on the control bar. Not a big problem if you have a lot of landing area and enough airspeed, but can get pretty tense if you're landing in a RLF. The WW Sport 2 175 that I fly has 3" longer downtubes compared to the smaller gliders, including the Falcon 3 195 that I have. It makes hand positioning for the flare more critical as the hands need to be positioned higher than typically. I always have to remind myself to get both hands up at ear-level or higher, and then push UP, not out. When I do that, I get photographic results. Otherwise.....not so much. I've also tightened my leg loops and that may have helped the flare a lot. The flare window seems kinda short and not so easily detected on the Sport 175. Things turn out much better if I do an aggressive flare slightly early (first indication of trim) than if I pause for a second after trim condition is achieved, especially when the air is warm and humid. This could be because of the extra drag of the harness' skids on the ground. I've been trying to keep one leg in the harness for control, the other extended, with both hands on the control bar. Allows for a more upright body position. Then while entering ground effect or a bit sooner, I transfer one hand up the downtube. At least that's the plan. It doesn't always work out that way. It all depends on the air's activity. Hot field conditions can be challenging! I enjoy watching your approaches and landings. Good stuff! I've noticed that recently you've been pushing more forward on the downtubes rather than upwards. Could be just the camera's angle, though. Love your vids!

It goes to show what kind of person the airstrip manager is not personally confronting you, rather leaving a little note on your vehicle. I hope you went to talk with him. There should be a better solution than to ban you from flying there. Sailplane people can be a bunch of dicks, thinking that they are super-elite with their $200,000+ sailplanes, etc. Many of them don't remember that they themselves began their flying careers with hang gliders. There must be other flying fields close by that you can use. I have several within a reasonable driving distance. I have NEVER tried to fly flphg at a sailplane-only field.... I've been at one site and met the idiots who take themselves far too seriously and think they're something special.

Wet and wring your T shirt before you start setting up.

Stay connected

Wao amazing😊😊😊😊😊

Thanks for sharing the adventure.

I am watching your very interesting videos for some weeks now. I did not know that it is possible to start from an airfield with a motorized and propellor driven glider. I am wondering about one thing: How do you avoid stall speed? Do you have any kind of technical devices onboard, accustical or such or do you just watch the horizon?

So relaxing to watch your glide.. Just flew my dji mavic 3 drone for an hour. Learning turns,slides rising, diving and rearward and all those together.. About to order fpv goggles, then I'll be able to enjoy views like you do. Thanks for sharing... Qld Australia here.

I can't wait to finally get to do this.

Always wanted to be first to view 💪

Love these keep them up!!! Can't wait to get my own! 💪💪

Nice! You may already have looked into these details, but here are some thoughts anyway: For dealing with fuel inlet pressure to the pump, look up what some shifter-kart guys have done, namely using an external pulse fuel pump (mikuni Briggs/walbro) feeding a small, vented fuel reservoir positioned above the injector pump or carb inlet. Swedetech markets their GFS fuel system, but it can be simplified to a small fraction of their cost. I get the pulse from the carb manifold, but the full length of the pulse travel must be less than ~6cm long because the pulse pump system works like a Helmholtz resonator and with any longer of a pulse line, the pump will reduce it's fuel pressure and volume delivery at high rpm's -- exactly opposite of what is required. At least that's what I've found through calculation and experimentation. I've posted some pix of my fuel delivery system on groups.io/g/flphg. I'm thinking that both static and manifold pressure sensors will be required for the program to recognize engine load vs no-load condition. Though, with the reversion from the piston port induction, it might be an idea to put the manifold pressure sensor within the air intake of an airbox of about 1L volume to help average the cyclic pressure spikes. Maybe. You might want to calculate the resonance of that volume along with the crankcase volume and their combined resonance to match your preferred engine rpm. You may want to install a wide-band O2 sensor at the belly of the pipe, at least temporarily until you can verify A/F mixtures and create a map table that works well. O2 sensors don't last very long in an oily environment. I don't know if a narrow-band O2 without a heating element would work well enough. It might. Stihl has the MS500i EFI chainsaw that runs like a racecar.... when it does run. Lot's of problems with customers' saws in the field, though, burning-up. It's been on the market for more than a year now. it would be interesting to know what sensors they use for proper carburetion. They also require some electrical power generation. I think one hurdle you'll have is providing enough steady electrical power. Previously, I was designing a CDI system for mine and thought that a simple bicycle wheel generator/alternator might work if placed on the belt drive, charging a small battery. There were a couple 3120xp saws built for Canadian use that had an alternator under the flywheel to power the handle heaters. Other smaller husqvarnas have similar alternators, but require a specific flywheel that's different to those same saw models without handle heaters. Don't know if the Raket case would allow for the attachment of the alternator ring coil assembly, or would the smaller husqi saws' specific flywheels would fit well. You'd likely have to weld on bolt-lugs to the case, or even epoxy them on to secure the alternator ring. I couldn't find any part numbers for the 3120xpg (g= heater designation) alternator/flywheel parts. I'm betting that if you could find the parts that would fit, the ignition timing would be off since different years' models had different ignition timings, but that's really not much of a problem as long as you time the flywheel position correctly (not using the woodruf key) to the piston position and use a drop of loc-tite on the FW. I've retarded the flywheel/ignition timing by 5 through 15 degrees from stock on mine with good timing-retainment success. The main setback for me was that my recoil starter would likely not engage properly with a stock 3120xp, or other husqi flywheels, since the husqi has a different engagement geometry. Using a husqi recoil starter modified to the raket case might be an answer, but your electric starter gear would likely fit fine. I might look into this further later on, but right now I have the engine running very strongly without having to wonder when the crap chinese electronic components will fail. -doug

That's not good! Sorry to hear! But viewing your recent past vids, it appeared like you were not getting your normal full power on engine run-up just before launching, and the engine was sounding as if the air/fuel mixture was tuned too lean. That would account for the piston getting too hot and the ring-pin working itself out. Check the underside of the piston deck. If it's dark-colored and not a bright aluminum appearance, then you've been running too lean. Reading the spark plug may not be the best way of determining the proper A/F due to widely-varying compounds in most pump gasoline sources. What flphg community are you referring to?

Yet another well executed landing. Nice and smooth, no drama. Yawn. 😜

Can you teach me

I don't mind bubbles 'n foam in my beer too much, but not in my fuel! 🤣

I'm amazed at how rapidly you can descend on final with that double surface UltraSport. It appears as if you're descending as fast as you would when flying a draggy falcon! Your landings are very good too. Probably the best, well-controlled flphg landings I've seen on vid. I really appreciate your landing posture and being solidly on the control bar all the way into ground-effect, then transitioning both hands to the down-tubes just before flaring. I'd like to know who taught you this landing approach style! I've patterned my landings from reading and watching Jim Rooney. I've more or less landed this way (OUOD -- one up, one down on the control bar) until I started flying my big Sport 2 175 this Winter and Spring (3 times so far). The very first landing with it was a perfect 2-stepper, but the next two landings I made some silly mistakes with this wing. I was very aggressive in landing with my Falcon 195 and double-surfaced Spectrum 165, very much like your landings, but this Sport is MUCH faster than my other two gliders. If I don't have my fixed-prop free-spinning on approach for a lot more added drag, the Sport doesn't want to descend when I pull in, it just accelerates! I need to get more aggressive about my approaches on this Sport and fly it all the way into ground effect on the control bar, like you do. Your landing style is an inspiration. I had a flight this past Sunday in some nice, active spring-time conditions. A bit bumpy along with some rotor. Fun stuff. The landing wasn't as photogenic as yours.

That Ultrasport appears to be in almost-new condition! Crispy sail, new-looking downtubes. Nice wing! I like the older wings! Good find!

That sucks! Been there, done that, but it was on crappy landing. A motorcycle carb would be ok, but the problem with most of those carbs is that tuning the A/F mixture ratio can be hit-and-miss, whereas tuning a simple WB-series carb with low- and high-speed needles is super-easy as it tunes in real-time so you can hear when it's in tune or not as you're adjusting the needles, if you've trained your ears well. Informed and successful Kart racers have adopted what many call an 'Octopus' fuel delivery system that consists of an external pulse-operated fuel pump (like a briggs&stratton 4-cycle pump or a Walbro pf1) that derives it's pulse from the intake pulses through the carb manifold. Note that the pulse line from the carb manifold to the pulse pump must be as short as possible (<6 cm long) to generate the proper pump resonance and good fuel flow at high throttle settings. That pump pushes fuel into a small fuel reservoir that has three fuel ports: one inlet port, two outlet ports; the top-most outlet goes back to the main fuel tank and rids the system of any wayward bubbles, the bottom outlet goes directly to the carb. The karts using this system typically use a WB series carb or a Tillotson. The whole point of this octopus fuel system is to pressurize the fuel before it gets to the carb, thus eliminating any fuel vapor bubbles. Pump-gas has a relatively high vapor-pressure to allow for easy starting of road vehicles. ('Vapor Pressure' is a liquid's internal pressure point that halts the phase-change of liquid-state molecules to a vapor-state) The problem with typical Walbro and Tillotson carbs is that all these carbs have an internal fuel pump that generates a low pressure within the fuel lines to help draw fuel into the carb's fuel-metering system. The high-vapor-pressure pump-gas fuel easily vaporizes in a low-pressure environment and creates vapor bubbles that inevitably compromises the power-output of the engine due to fuel starvation. Agitation of the fuel while ground-handling and launching also greatly contributes to the generation of vapor bubbles in the fuel lines. So the cure for these low-pressure-generated bubbles is to pressurize the fuel lines just enough to keep the fuel above it's vapor-pressure. An external fuel pump feeding a small (~6 oz), pre-carb reservoir does the trick. I use a simple briggs & stratton pulse fuel pump meant for 4-strokes and a welded aluminum reservoir that I made. You can purchase a similar reservoir and pulse-pumps from on-line kart-racing suppliers. I did a fair amount of research into this system, and since designing and implementing my own fuel-delivery system based on the 'octopus,' I've had zero fuel-delivery problems and the carb seems to be easier to tune as well. Whether you replace the WG carb with a WB or a typical motorcycle carb, you will need to add some means of pressurizing the fuel lines to make your fuel delivery system vapor-proof. A well-elevated fuel tank may help as well. Hope this helps.

Hey Ben. What kind of harness is this?

This past winter I've been flying a second-hand but almost-new WW Sport 2 175 that I purchased in Florida last year. So much better than the falcon 195 and the Spectrum 165 I had previously been flying. Just got done fabricating a control-bar-mounted throttle control along with a fabricated throttle mixer for both mouth and control-bar throttle controls. The combo works perfectly smooth so far.... on the ground. The weather here has been super-windy for the past couple weeks so will have to wait for better flying conditions. Hang waiting!

Nice! I'm envious of your super-big, flat, expansive field of ops. Here in NC we just have hills, mountains, and more hills and trees. Makes for very tight launching and landing conditions. I like your approaches and landings, the way you stay on the control bar until well into ground effect. I do the same. It's a far easier method for photogenic landings in active conditions!

You're flying the sh!t out of that harness! Good for ya! I'm flying in NC, near Winston Salem. It'd be cool to get a group of Eastern pilots together for a weekend of flying. Johnny Davidson flies in Ohio, Chris Tom and John Dubnowski fly in Virginia.

good landing

Nice to know about the details of the flying site. But for viewers all over the world, where is "TN River" ? Hope you find some thermals one day.

сам летал на славутиче ут, учебнотренировочный, сам учился по книжке марка ордоди, налетал 40 часов , в потоке обтекания, класно, свобода, кто не летал тот не поймет, вот теперь думаю где и какой купить крыло в росии.

Looks like your CG is aft your over the control bar like you're trying to speed up.

I would be afraid some look would take a pot shot or two at you, nowadays ! And would you even be aware ? | ---@---[😳]---@--- ()----()

Found your vids, thanks.

Thanks for sharing, enjoyed that flight. So many questions. Looks to be very safe given perfect conditions. I hope you do more of these .

Too trusting of power Ben. Remember this on your next flights. Still recommending eye protection for bugs. On the first of this month one of our clubs pilots was flying his Colbra trike under a strutted HG. LOW the trike did a flat spin into the ground? caught fire, died. BRS didn’t fire or inflate. I expect the glider failed somehow because he was a knowledgeable pilot of many different types of air toys. For over water flights I would put two cheap K-Mart beach air mattresses inside the double surface and tie them together at the nose of the glider. It will change a glider shaped anchor into a life preserver. If you have to land on a narrow beach - approach it on a 45 degree angle to the shoreline.

😻 𝘱𝘳𝘰𝘮𝘰𝘴𝘮