@@billysimmons2432 I'm sure you can. I bet it's just in the econ menu.

@ got it sorted it out with tech support. Thank you

@desieranks sometimes the fire alarm, or high static pressure safety will be wired to DI4 but in this case those safeties are wired in series with the fan start/stop signal so a jumper is needed on DI4. The input numbers are programmable and can change, but that's the basic idea. A jumper will be put in place if the safeties are wired in somewhere else.

I'll have to get out my camera next time I use the WattMaster!

@kcomfortsystemshvac7060 terminal 10 is the power supply, putting out 25vdc. Terminal 1 is the input that receives the signal back from the dry contact out the start/stop relay.

Vfd the relay is a dry set of contacts

@@christopherlalla4894 are the dry set getting command from bas to enable the vfd? do you wire the cube relay in series with the end switches?

@@danieltolfo9332 The 25VDC is generated in the VFD on terminals 9, and 10. The Rib relay and the safety devices are all just dry contacts that allow the 25VDC to come back to the VFD terminal 1, which is configured as the "run enable" input. In this instance there is an added layer of complexity because the "Ice Cube" relays are energized by the safeties and break the 25VDC circuit on behalf of the safeties. Its kind of rare to see that setup. Most of the time the safeties break the 25VDC circuit themselves.

@@building-automation wires that come off the safety would to direct to the coil of relay? How would the other wires be relative to vfd?

@danieltolfo9332 yes, the wires from the safeties control the coils of the relays. The 25vdc is run through each relay on the contact side. Normally open and common.

I'm really glad my video are helping.

@@ThtdripGaming I built that resistor bank, but you can use a 30k ohm potentiometer to do the same thing.

not sure if you noticed... the blown fuse was on a 120v while the other 2 are on 208. it's not part of the phase but post transformer and they used a triple fuse block instead of a double + single

Distech has more capabilities.

Some controllers provide a secondary network isolated from the primary. Just asking, how can a switch or any hardwired devices on secondary affect anything on the primary?

Great advice, thanks!

Yes! That was on the tip of my tongue while recording. Thanks Bill.

You're right. Most of the time I do.

You just made my day.

​@@building-automationim glad to hear that!! Out of curiosity, do you work for an hvac contractor or are you purely in controls?

@@qomco Mostly controls work, although we are licensed to do mechanical work as well.

I'm glad you are getting something good out of them!

Yes, I noticed that. I had to use a N.O/N.C relay. Normally open calls it on, and normally closed calls it off.

Very interesting. That's the first time I've seen that setup on a chiller.

Yeah, it's pretty rough when there's no points list, and we don't have access to the existing B.A.S.

What do you do when it’s not there

@@andrewamaya8109 There are a few tricks you can do. Start by doing a walk through of the facility and take note of where all the devices are(pumps, chillers, boilers, ect.) Then take a good look at the controller and identify the different types of inputs and outputs. For the outputs you can use your meter to determine the different signal types being sent to get an idea of what they might control. For the inputs you might see a resistor in parallel which would indicate a 4-20mA sensor. Then trace some of the wires out of the control box and see which direction they go. If you're lucky you'll see conduits going in a direction of a group of devices like over toward all the pumps for instance. Once you have an understanding of the general layout and the signal types being sent you could begin pulling one output wire at a time from the controller and see what turns off. It would be a good idea to shutdown the chillers before you start pulling wires. If you kill a pump, or shut an isolation valve while the chiller is running you could send it into alarm or worse. Its also nice to shut everything down so its quiet and you can hear valve actuators move, or contactors pull in. If you are going to jump voltage to bring on a binary output you had better know what you are doing, it would be easy to damage components if you make a mistake.

I was simulating an outside air temperature so I could observe the economizer logic in action, but yes i suppose I could have put my resistor where the outside air temperature sensor connects to those wires by just unplugging the sensor and putting the resistor in place. It would have been cleaner that way.

I built it, but you can just order a 30k ohm potentiometer.

​@building-automation brother how much? I'll buy one from you.