I've used Docker for a few applications on my NAS over the years. So far, I've been able to make those work with the Synology Docker or Container Manager. I like using that interface, if possible, as I find it easier to make changes. I'm sure this can all be done with Docker command line or Docker Compose, but I'm not very familiar with those options. The Portainer approach seems to be much more straight forward.

Ok. You are definitely the expert on this stuff. I replaced the safety valve and the tube on top of it and it’s no longer leaking and my steam is working terrific but now my puck is crazy wet. I’m adjusting grind size with no luck or little luck. I had cleaned the grinder thoroughly. What should I be looking at? Three-way solenoid valve?

Thanks for the video. My machine all of a sudden started making weird noise which sounded like the burrs are tight on each other. I opened both bottom and top burrs cleaned them. Didn’t get fixed! One strange thing I see is that when I lock the top burr I have to do it only at highest coarse size and even when it’s locked the knob becomes very tight to turn to lower numbers ( even getting to number 12!) . Still I hear the same sound. ( I don’t have coffee beans in the system while I am testing) When I remove top burr, I can easily turn the knob and no issues. I feel Somehow there is something that makes the top burrs so tight when I put it in. I see you have spent a good amount of effort to learn the mechanisms, do you have any idea what could be the issue of my machine?

Cant edit, never set this up and factory reset doesn't work....

Do you still make parts for a Mk3 vw transmission linkage?

Hi I have the same meter but 120V instead. I am trying to find out my share of the electric bill. Can you help me? When I started my meter was reading 14221 and 3 months now its reading 15512. Which I get 1291 difference. that is the total KWH I have accumulated in 3 months right? if the bill is $900 for 3,000 kwh that means it$0.30 per kwh. I will use 1291 x $.30 to get my share of the electric? is that right?

to pull the safety valve forward, is it just 2 screws? Do you just used another zip tie to secure the larger hose that comes out of the T? Thanks

Thanks for that video. Mine one is leaking water now right after the right angle part on the right side. Not sure if i lost any sealing while cleaning it. Is there any other sealing than the two o-rings on the left and right side of this little metal part in between the right angle and the first plastic part of the solenoid?

I have a ZCS1201NSS01 Advantium model. The microwave portion of the oven works well until it heats ups (about a minute) and at that time the display cuts out & goes blank. The glass plate keeps turning and fan continues to work but the control panel become unresponsive. The only way to stop the unit is to open the door. By cutting the power off and then back on the unit goes to working normally until it get hot again. Any help will be appreciated

Here's my working ceramic Christmas tree with an RGB lamp, similar to what I wanted to do with this gadget: kzbin.info/www/bejne/boG8l2WcgrmZm7csi=VmNzy-1jax_45LrT

Great part 2 as well. Just watched it. The tube on top was leaking. I pulled it out and put it right back and it seemed to seal but I’m ordering the valve and tube to be safe. My steamer was not steaming, it seems the pulsating pump action, the water was coming out of the tube/T connection.

Yeah, my clever idea is to replace the old color wheel for the aluminum tree with this. Gives off less heat, uses less electricity, and gives more color variation, although not as bright.

This has been an on-going project, details in the video description. I didn't film any of the early work as that was 15+ years ago. I just recently completed adding the joist hangers which should wrap up the bracing task. I wasn't required to add this additional bracing, but wanted to do it for peace of mind and to let this patio cover last many more decades. We just went through a pretty strong storm today (there was a tornado watch issued farther up the SF peninsula earlier today) with high winds from the south blowing right into the face of this cover with no issues. There was also a report of a tornado on the ground some 35 miles south of my location: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4CsqoyCfZJ9bLcsi=sFamUaXXjdz0PSix

wow, I cant thank you enough for spending time and doing this demonstration. This niggling question in my mind is now solved.

Man, I love how in depth you got into this machine. I was so stuck with what was causing my issue. You pointed out so many things so that next time my espresso Maker has a problem, I get to watch your video again. Keep up the great work! 👍

This was so helpful. Thank youuuu

Did you print the bushings with 100% infill?

Oh man, printing 7 years ago! It was a whole different world back then!

Question: what’s the trick of getting the pins back in over those tubes. Cuz it’s not happening for me. I’ve tried pushing down. Nothing. Issues: I’ve got a buzzing issue too and the steam was pouring out, thought it was going to blow up! then just no water coming into head, hence no espresso being made. So now I know what to do I think I will just get a new machine if cleaning doesn’t solve the issues. I picked it up at a thrift store, already put $’s into it. Thank you for explaining how these work, the parts, screws seem to rust a lot.

I checked hoses on mine and cannot seem to get the pins back in, any tips?

Not sure why I never thought of this earlier. Once daylight savings time ends, I'm mostly riding home from the trails in the dark. The Smoke lenses are just a bit too dark for that. But I still like the eye protection as the tires will throw up small pebbles and often you'll pass through a swarm of flying insects riding down the canyon road in the dark. Then, once the daylight hours increase in the spring, I can swap the lighter lenses for the darker ones in a few minutes.

Hey Mr Brown, my name is Tom. I've read your pinned comment and watched the video several times but I'm stumped. I took the back off my machine, cleaned out all the water lines, reassembled, but no water will come out from the wand or hot water dispenser now. It will come out from the group head just fine, and water will go in the lines leading to the hot water dispenser, but nothing but dribble from the hot water dispenser and nothing from the wand... Any tips? I'm about to cave and buy a new machine if I cant get this figured out. Thank you for your time,

thanks for the video. My 5 year old Breville Express had a broken hose barb and I was able to fix it with this method.

RB, funny, I never searched Tube about old topo maps. I became aware that the real maps represent actually many things to many people. I was gifted a folio of topos from the first series- abt 1890- up to WW2 and aerial survey. What is of interest is these maps were never folded, mostly, with some later (newer) series being folded once. Many have reverse folio- sometimes repetitive but usually endorsed by the then acting politicos. Also of note, I advertised these items-fully 100 years old, in pristine to good condition and no one wanted them, AGGGG. Seems reproduced copies from these same maps can sell repeatedly for a fair price!

It’s fairly likely that you and your friend are already aware (I’m saying this more for the benefit of others) that the Mazda “B” series pickup and Ford Ranger pickup are the same vehicle from 1994 until Mazda stopped selling p/u’s in the US in 2011. Sometimes you can find a Ford part when a Mazda isn’t available and vice-versa. I really appreciate your vids. I’m a new subscriber from reading a comment you made on another video about tritium collecting while you were in college. Please keep up the good work!!!

Thank you Mr. Brown, that was helpful, in the picture that I am attaching, if there is an option for this, after i replaced the black part of the solenoid only, (top of the right one, ) and the pump, i did hear a something go flying ( fling) as i was dismantling the unit, although I could not find anything., then upon putting the new pump in an starting to reapply all of the hoses and wired, i found this small spring with a piece of plastic at one end about half an inch in length, hard spring about 1/8th in diameter with a small opaque plastic insterted into one end, which is rounded off), ( UPDATE, I COULDNT POST A PICTURE HERE, SO, I WILL TRY TO DESCRIBE IT, . , ugghh, I don't remember where this came from, or where it goes, can you help me ?, thank you, john

I found out that you can disassemble the solenoid valve and clean it with cafiza or vineager. Never buzzed again! Sometimes it's not necessary to replace it.

Anyone else use one of these tool trays on their drill press? I find they are very handy. I keep all my frequently used drill and countersink bits there. I do have a drill bit set holder that stays on the nearby workbench for the odd sized hole. But for the drilling I do all the time, those bits stay on the tool tray within easy reach.

For some reason, the factory rubber shift knob in my '88 Xtracab DLX 4x4 (22RE) turned sticky in the last year, but the one in my '87 4Runner DLX (22RE) didn't. It's like the rubber suddenly reached some critical point where it's sweating out stickiness or breaking down or something.

thank you for excellent comprehensive information., i have watched lots of videos and read your entire first comprehensive list of trouble shooting possibilities, however I still have a question.,, my machine has a a similar problem, but doesn't make as much noise as usual after powering up. it is rather a quiet buzz. i was wondering if you knew how to tell if it is the pump or the solenoid when there is no pressure. there is no only a small amount of water exiting the wand, steam of either of the shots. I am guessing the solenoid, as I heard that no amount of water at all will come our if the pump is bad., but is that completely true., is there a : partial failure of the pump where some water could still come out ?, thanks for all answers., of course I could just replace both the solenoid and pump, but i am curious which it is. nothing is clogged, cant find any leaks., i have done resets. cleanings etc.. thanks again,

Need Help. Have unique situation. When machine broke down only steam/hot water was working. Replaced solenoid valve assembly: espresso part is working, hot water and steam is going thru espresso port. Changes three way valve with part from Brevville(OEM) and same: espresso is working, when I turn hot water or steam, it’s going thru espresso part. What could be wrong?

I have a very similar Panasonic Bath fan but it is model FV-LP002. It looks like it has a separate ballast for each of the two main bulbs. ( It also has a third bulb socket for an E12 type candelabra base ). Anyone have a ballast bypass plan for this model?

The Wet Okole seat covers are around 20 years old and still working well, albeit showing some wear on the outer fabric layer. I've been covering them with other seat covers for about 10 years now. I find the snug neoprene cover really helps with the comfort of the lower seat cushion. I also have an inflatable lumbar cushion built into the driver's seat back cover that's still working fine.

Hey how’s it going. I would like to order some front spacers and your recommendations on longer leafspring knuckles for the rear to enter 3 inch lift. I’ve got a 1992 Toyota pick up base model leaf springs are underneath the axle on the rear would like a couple of your spacers for the front

Had to refer back to this video as I was making some new maps for the first time in 6 months. Forgot some of the finer details of the menu selections. Also have a new 4K monitor so experimenting with 4K (3840x2160)size screen captures. At zoom level 17, I got 0.63m/pixel, so may be able to drop to zoom level 16. But I need to test these maps out in the field to see how they look as-is.

I saw a video saying making it fine would damage the burrs. But u thought this should be common sense for manufacturer to account for this and design it so it couldn't touch. What do you think?

What does it mean if the fan is not running on powering on

For the comments saying the door closer is installed incorrectly, here's a link to the installation manual that shows how it's supposed to be installed: data2.manualslib.com/pdf7/173/17252/1725154-wright/wc13.pdf?15fbaf83a3fe9f6cc0ec0ef96ac7ec1d This is an inward opening, left hand door and the closer was positioned using the supplied mounting template. I have the closer mechanism mounted to the top of the door and the arm bracket is mounted to the curved door trim molding and thus I needed to place the arm on the upper shaft. If the molding was flat, I could have mounted the closer above the door. It is a Wright Products WC13 closer and is the original closer and arm, not some "Frankenstein" cobbled together collection of parts. The closer arm came with the darker brown paint while the silver closer has an ivory colored plastic cover over. I think Wright Products offered this closer in multiple colors including brown and ivory. Likely they swap out the plastic cover piece as needed and leave the painted arm in the brown color.

hey. nice video, i watched till end. i think the problem with mine is not with the arm, its still up and good, its inside the machine(that box of metal). does anyone has an idea on how to fix that? like what could be the problem and a potential fix?

Hi! I have Breville Barista Max and the wand is leaking when make coffe. The tap for steam and water is from plastic. What to check for this leaking? I cleaned the valves, the one for coffee was stuck. Thanks.

fremont raceway used to be close to this area , my dad had this fantasy to turn those lagoons into a boat race track. but the better choice is the armpit of the san francisco bay now smells better and is cleaner.

Hello, I got the same problem on the tray plastic coating of my ice maker