It is the relay failing.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Uprated relay is on order, thank you for your videos! they are very helpful.

I would use the 6 volt NTE Electronics R46-5D12-6 relay. It is available at a number of places including Amazon. Just search for "R46-5D12-6"

Which solder sucker did you use?

@@annhering6585 I bought it back in the early '70s and it is no longer available. Any solder sucker or solder wick should work fine.

Thanks for letting me know!

Sorry, but I don't have access to that information. You would have to look at the top of the relay to determine which one you have. And no, I don't repair boards. Hmm...maybe I should. $$$ 🤔

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Thank you for the response. I would like to post a picture of my board for you to see but KZbin doesn't seem to give me that option. The burned pin looks minor, should I change the relay to be safe? Where do I find this relay? The relay says: SHC SRE303006 Coil:6VDC, 10A/250VAC/AC1, T+85C

@@MiamiRefugee67 If you like, you can email me a photo at MyBrokenDW@ gmail.com. But you should be able to use the "NTE R46-5D12-6" relay. If you do a web search you should find many places to buy it...even Amazon has it. Sometimes the shipping is more than the relay. You might consider replacing all the relays if you are adventurous.

Yeah, you are not likely to find an appliance repair technician to replace the relay on the board. There may be 1 in 50 that might do it. As for the relay, I am not sure which relay the SHU43C uses. Look on the top of the relay for the coil voltage. Expand the video description to see the relays that I mention there. If you are still not sure, post the relay part number and I will verify it for you.

Sure, email the photos and I will take a look at them this evening or tomorrow morning. I'll let you know what I think.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas can you provide the email again?

Well, that's a head scratcher. I thought all the probes were aluminum and therefore would not rust off...but I guess stranger things have happened. Some of the drain lines go straight down a ways, while other's (like in the video) only go down about 1" or so before making a turn. Either way, if you can't see it, it may be quite difficult to remove. The only two things that I can think of right now is compressed air to blow it out, or a vacuum to suck it out. Neither may work if it is jammed in there. The only thing after those two ideas would be to try and force it out with a wire (perhaps something like 12 gauge copper wire). It just so happens that this morning I had to unclog the drain line on my upright freezer. I tried to suck it clean with my wet/dry vacuum, but it just wouldn't budge. I ended up clearing it after several attempts by using my air compressor from above (down the drain line) and from below (up the drain line). I then hooked up my vacuum to the end of the drain hose and ran about a gallon of water down it for a good flushing.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Yeah, weird. the upper part of the probe where it attaches to coil was twisted and discolored. Maybe Ice twisted it. I tried compressed air and 12 gauge wire to no avail. Part of drain hole is partially blocked by the foil so was hard to get a good look. I ordered repair kit so next time i take apart ill remove existing foil now that I know i can and have replacement. There is no way to access that part of drain tube though, huh?

@@markkeller5783 The drain tube is between the inner cabinet liner and the back. There is foam insulation that is injected after assembly to insulate the unit. You could, in theory, cut the back out carefully using something like a Dremel tool and then dig out the foam to access the drain tube. After getting the probe piece out of the tube, then use a can of spray foam to reattach and insulate the back. I would tape the cutout piece with aluminum tape leaving just a few openings (maybe even drill a few holes) so that the foam could be injected and noted as being full. There are "window and door" spray foams that do not put a lot of pressure on the item being foamed as the foam expands. I would try that before dragging the fridge to the curb.

Did you fix your problem ? With your Samsung fridge freezer.

Sorry, but I don't remember now. I wore out the replacement batteries I put in it, so I just bought a new one.

Did you happen to watch my video about tips for repairing these boards? kzbin.info/www/bejne/iH3HmmCGnNt0pLc There are a lot of different boards shown in that video. If you don't see what you need, send me a photo of the front and back of your board to MyBrokenDW @gmail.com and I'll take a look at it.

I would try Amazon for a R46-5D12-12: www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-R46-5D12-12-General-Arrangement/dp/B002C97U50

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Thank you!

When I was researching this issue, one thing that was abundantly clear is that just replacing the clip (especially with that short version) will not fix the problem. My daughter's fridge is still working fine after I made the modifications I mentioned in the video. It has been about 3-1/2 years now. Just occasional cleaning of the condenser coil at the rear, but that is just normal maintenance for any fridge (more so if you have cats or dogs that shed fur!). I don't know if Samsung agrees or disagrees with my recommended changes, nor do I care. But charging $600 to fix the problem is outrageous since you brought up this issue while the fridge was still under warranty. Their fix did not fix it, so now they need to make it right for you...IMHO.

Omg, salt! Genius. Any possibility of that causing problem with parts?

Home Depot. It is also known as "hardware cloth", "hardware screen", or "hardware mesh".

Yes, add the clip. The RSH1 models need the defrost sensor moved also, but the leads are too short. You can extend the leads if you know how, or buy a defrost sensor with longer leads. See: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJDOk6GamaZ3erc and kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJu6q2loateFos0

Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated! I'll take a look at those as well and give it a go.

I'm not sure I understand what you are asking, but if the unit has the original batteries in it then they are dead. I wore out the batteries that you see me replacing in the video. Rather than replace them again, I just bought a new oral irrigator...I think it was eBay or Amazon for about $25.

I don't think it would hurt anything, but I am not sure it will help more than the mods I described in the video. Give the heater a try and let us know how well it works.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas I'm doing all the other fixes as well. Only thing is if you add the supplemental heater you can't relocate the thermistor... Because the additional heater will be right where the suggested new thermistor location is.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas I'm siliconing around the evap coil pipe entry point, replacing the foam weather stripping around the cover panel, new lower heater clip dingus for the drain hole, etc

@@squirts1 True. You will need to do one or the other.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Would it be possible to move the thermistor to another location so as not to be too close to a supplemental heater? Maybe taped on the wall, below the horizontal cooling line where the supplemental heater runs? BTW, you are the only one who's mentioned the TSB about the thermistor - thanks!

It is possible that the dishwasher is in Economy mode. In that mode the water is not heated nearly as much as normal wash mode.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Thanks for your reply. The DW is about 20 years old and doesn't have that feature. It also gets stuck in the WASH cycle and will not advance.

@@victorsparks3408 Ah, okay. It is likely a failing heater relay. As the relays are in the process of failing, they often work intermittently. My DW worked okay at times and then wouldn't...it was very erratic. I finally took the control board apart and found the bad relay. BTW, a failing/failed relay does not always show up as a bad solder joint on the board. Sometimes all you will see is a darkened area on the board where the relay is mounted.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Again, thanks so much for your reply. Do you have a resource for heater relays?

@@victorsparks3408 it would depend upon which relay you currently have on your control board. You will need to open it and have a look at the top of it. You will probably find a match for it already in the comments below. If not, then get back with me.

You can check the flow of the water supply line to the inlet valve by disconnecting it from the inlet valve and use a bucket to catch the water when you turn on the water supply. You should get a good strong flow of water. A float is used to measure the amount of water in the dishwasher. Sometimes those get debris in the float and it will throw off the water level. The float mechanism operates a microswitch to tell the control board that there is enough water in the machine. If the water supply flow to the dishwasher is good, and the float is properly operating, then it could be an obstruction inside the inlet valve (past the filter screen). Sometimes the valves can be cleaned, and sometimes it is best to get a new valve. Hope that helps.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Thanks. I did check past the valve and all seems clear. The level switch is not getting actuated and is actually sitting at its lowest level, the water only coming about as high as the metal filter. It moves freely but I haven't checked it's signalling correctly though I would think it it was signalling full, the water wouldn't fill at all. I'm trying to work out bypassing the door sensor at the moment so I can actually see what's going on inside the machine. I think it must be magnetic or something.

@@chaos.corner Seems as if you have eliminated everything except the fill valve. The DW should drain first and then fill when a cycle is started. If you open the door after you hear the water stop entering, the water level should be much higher than you are describing. I have read that some people have bypassed the door switch and covered the front with clear plastic to see the operation. I haven't done that, but I guess it worked for them.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas I worked out the switch bypass. It's magnets. I used an old hard-drive magnet. Even with the extra pan of water, although the arm was moving, it's very slow. I saw it suggested that it could be the impeller so I'll be looking into that. Not sure what the low water level is about (water conserving?) but at least I can look inside the machine now.

@@chaos.corner Yes, if the arms are not moving correctly even though it has enough water in the machine, then there might be a blockage at the pump inlet or the impeller itself is broken.

You are welcome. Please note that the battery style was changed to AA size in later models.

If the evaporator is frozen up, it often freezes the cover in place. Refrigerator needs to be defrosted first.

May have 6 screws. Two under light cover. Plus freeze up defrost.

Where does the water drain to? Can't find drain outlet on my fridge.

Let melt it will come off easy

Check for debris in the filter basket and also under the basket. Also, check for debris in the jet holes of the spray arms as they can become clogged. Do you hear the circulation pump run? If so, take note of the positions of the spray arms and run the dishwasher to see if they remain in the same position. If you hear the circulation pump running, but there is no evidence of water being pumped into the arms, then the pump impeller may need to be replaced. If so, there should be YT videos showing the impeller replacement procedure. Hope that helps.

Hello @@AgglomeratedIdeas , Thank you so much for the quick response. Today I had some time in the morning to do some further testing and cleaning between driving my kids to their activities / classes. I consulted the user manual and per the instructions, removed the upper and lower trays as well as both spray arms and cleaned them out. Other than some minor mineral deposits from hard water, I did not notice anything else clogging both these arms. Before re-installing both spray arms, I tested further by running water through both the spray arms and confirming that the water was flowing out of the spray arm nozzles as expected. I also cleaned out the Large Object Trap / Cylinder Filter as well as the Fine Filter. Both these filters also did not have much debris either. Once I finished cleaning and putting everything back in the dishwasher, I ran the quick (9 minutes?) "Rinse and Hold" cycle. Here are my observations so far after running this cycle: 1. After pressing the "On / Off" button to start the Rinse and Hold cycle, I could hear water running for a couple minutes like it normally does. Couple minutes later, the running water stopped. This is when I would expect to hear the rinse action start but again there was near silence - except for a hum, as if a motor was trying to run but could not. 2. I pressed the Off button (did not cancel the cycle yet) and opened the dishwasher door. I noticed there was water at the bottom of the dishwasher indicating that water WAS filing the dishwasher (from somewhere). 3. I closed the dishwasher door and resumed the cycle and same thing - silence (except for the hum). I waited for another couple minutes and peeked inside again. To answer your question, the spray arms had not moved from their starting position. Could the humming sound be the circulation pump you mentioned trying to run (and maybe move the spray arms) but - for some reason - is unable to do so? 4. Also, in the initial couple minutes after starting the cycles and while I heard the water filing, I could also hear couple clicks (similar to relays clicking). Not sure what these clicks might indicate (e.g. are these clicks supposed to indicate when the spray arms are supposed to start spinning while water is filling up in the dishwasher?) but just thought I'd mention it here in case helps diagnose things further. 5. After waiting another minute or so, I did the "Cancel and Drain" which drained out all the water from the dishwasher. I would appreciate any guidance with further diagnosing the problem. Thanks much again.

@@topperdude2007 Based upon your information, it seems that either the circulation motor is not running...just stuck and humming, or is running and not pumping water. The impeller on the pump may be broken and the pump is running, or the pump is jammed by the broken impeller and just humming. The clicking may be the broken impeller just occasionally hitting the spinning pump shaft. The impellers can get broken if a piece of debris such as broken glass gets down there. Also, just being plastic, they can break on their own. I would suggest that you search YT for videos on replacing the impeller. I hope it works out for you.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Thank you so much for the continued responses - it is really helping us better understand what might be going on and narrow the root cause. Based on your suggestion(s), I searched on youtube and came across this video which talks about identical symptoms to ours and he shows how to check and remove any objects (broken glass etc.) that may be stuck in the impeller and preventing it from running and just humming: kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5DPZJd6rLpljpY I followed those steps and felt inside that drain area but could not feel any objects like glass etc. We also do not recall taking any items loaded into the dishwasher come out broken in the last few minutes (but we understand there could be other things than broken items that could be causing the jam). I also took a picture down that drain and can see the (green) impeller but am not sure what the round thing above the green impeller might be and if it might be normal for that white (round-ish) thing above the impeller to be there or could it be what might be causing the "jam"? Here is the image: imgur.com/a/SRf7bXp Any idea what that thing above the impeller could be? And if it is normal for it to be in that drain (not sure if it might be in your dishwasher as well assuming you might still have that same dishwasher)? We are wondering if that white thing above the impeller might be some sort thing to prevent debris from getting into the pipes and spray arms and somehow that might be stuck in that position and if so whether there might be a way to "reset" it? Thank you again

@@topperdude2007 I watched the video you linked above. That is exactly what I meant by a jam in the impeller. As for your photo, that white part is just part of the impeller where the motor shaft attaches. You can see an impeller being installed in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5WZimiQhbV5nqc If you can get your fingers in there far enough, you may be able to see if the impeller moves or is jammed.

I don't think there would be a relationship between not using the ice maker and the evaporator failing to fully defrost.

I really don't recall now...just searched the web and found them. 🤔 There are links to the items I used in the video description.

There are known reasons for the fridge to ice up and stop cooling. A failed circulation fan or a failed defrost sensor are examples. There are also known reasons for water to be found under the crisper drawers such a failed ice maker or a stopped-up evaporator drain line (down at the duckbill valve in the rear). As for the fridge to just suddenly have the evaporator freeze up and the fridge to stop cooling (assuming the previously mentioned items are not the cause), is a bit of a mystery. I could not find anything to fix on my daughter's fridge except to install an improved heater clip, move the defrost sensor, and clean the condenser coil. The fridge is still working fine since doing those things. I do have to clean the condenser coils periodically, but that is just normal maintenance. Why her fridge worked for years and then suddenly developed issues is something I still don't know. 🤔

@@AgglomeratedIdeas we stopped using the ice maker could that be a possible cause?

Yes, I too think that they should issue a recall of some sort. It seems to me that if they sell a kit to fix this problem, then they are certainly aware of the defect.

The relay pin and the solder pad on the board have to be heated to accept solder. When I solder a large item to a board, I like to heat that item first so as to not overheat the pad. Just as it begins to accept solder, I slide my soldering iron down so that both the item and the pad can be fed solder. If the two items are about the same size, then just heat both of them together.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas thank you sir. I’m more of a point to point old school solder guy. Tube stuff.

I would not recommend using galvanized steel. Galvanization or galvanizing is the process of applying a protective zinc coating to steel to prevent rusting. However, when the steel is cut the exposed edges will rust.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas Understood. I have access to aluminum sheet and will use that. I just being lazy. Thanks.

@@robsimpson5340just order the piece it’s like $7 not worth wasting your time trying to cut out of sheet

Yes, that happens but at least they can be repaired by carefully installing a jumper. I hope your repair works and the dishwasher works okay again.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas well, no luck after the relay repair, even though it was clear one relay connection was charred and discontinuous. The element checks out ok. The high limit thermostat is fine. Thermistor resistance at 25 degrees checks ok. Now relay is replaced. That’s all there is in the circuit!!

​@@a1chemist1 That's a real shame. If you have eliminated the external components (element, etc.) to the control board and the dishwasher is still coming up with an E1 code, then the board is a goner. It does happen sometimes that the arcing that takes place when a copper trace on the board is vaporized it will take out other nearby components such as integrated circuits. That cannot really be determined up front unless it physically shows that other components are damaged. The relay needs to be replaced to prove if the board is good or not. This is only the second board that I have run across that looked like it could be repaired, but evidently sustained hidden damage. It was worth the try though. Check into the cost of a new control board for your unit and make a decision as to go that way or maybe it is time to upgrade to a newer model. 😞 I know that ours is not going to last much longer so I am expecting to buy a new one. We bought ours in 2006 so I guess we got our money's worth, but I still don't want to think about having replace it though.

@@AgglomeratedIdeas thank you again my friend. I guess I spoke too soon. Somehow the unit made it completely through, the second try running. I didn’t check the element’s heating during the water heating or the heat drying, but am sure it worked at the heat drying stage (steam, for the first time in a long while!). So the relay did help. Thinking maybe (if I’m lucky) one of the door switches didn’t catch well on first try - I had forgotten to secure both switches with the little screws.

@@a1chemist1 That's wonderful! 👏 It could have been one of the door switches, but I have also heard of this happening before (which I didn't think about yesterday). Apparently, some of the dishwashers won't reset on first run...it takes a second run. So, I think you are good to go now. It works!!!!

I think that would be unnecessary if you relocate the defrost sensor. It does cause the defrost cycle to run a little bit longer, but you have to do what you have to do.

I was just stating that in some other videos that some said to relocate that sensor. I disagree with that. Expand the video description by clicking MORE. There I stated "Do NOT move the black thermo sensor" just to emphasize that. I probably should have gone into more detail about that sensor in the video. Sorry.

It would be nice if they explained that to their customers. But unfortunately...