Just installed this same aciq unit with 3 indoor heads… just reading the manual now and see that you have to plug the 2nd drain port on each head tht is not used… hoping that plug is installed from the factory????

Wondering if you have any ideas. Furnace runs forever reguardless of set temperature. The "Heat On" message has gone away and its still blowing heat. It took my house up to 41 deg C the one day when I wasn't home. Right now im turning on the breaker to the furnace until the house is warm and then turning it off again. I have replaced the thermostat and have a new board in it. The old board burnt out somehow. Had an electrician to check the wiring on both the furnace and thermostat. Stumped every Hvac guy ive had in including 2 owners of the Hvac companies. The door that opens while heat is on on the furnace itself doesnt close when its supposed to. Its not getting caught on anything and even took apart the spring mechanism on it to make sure it was working properly. Furnace is from the 60's is a Lennox.

Hi, I live in Brooklyn NY and I had a furnace radiator for heat that no longer functions and air conditioners in every window for cooling. I am now in the process of gut renovatiing my home and was wondering if mini split alone would be sufficient to heat and cool my 3 story NY home. My wife doesn’t believe it would and also thinks it would drive our electric bill up so she wants to re install a furnace system as well as the mini split system.(she also believes that solar power is a scam) I suggested a solar system installation to offset the extra electricity that the mini splits would draw in the winter and summer. What do you guys think?

Wow! That was easy!

Set up y fi

Thanks Sir.

actually i want to know, where can i can order the part, i want to se if i can aford to buy them, i need ypu sent me price of line dryer and blower motor and txv please

See now how the LEAK was installed !!!!

Great video. Really appreciate the thorough review!

The ACiQ manuals are filled with misinformation even the dimension of the condenser is wrong. How is anyone supposed to do the planning if the information given is wrong and filled with typo.

I personally wouldnt install a heat pump because i wouldnt be able to have heat when the power goes out. My portable generator wont be able to run a hear pump as well as sump pumps and fridges

Good

I’m in on a middle floor of a 3 story condo. The condo has two split central ac units one in bedrooms and other in living space. System over 20 yrs old. HVAC guy says must change. I would like a packaged roof top system since i would like to save space in the apartment andI assume won’t have to worry about duct work. But how can ac connect to 2 floor apt from roof without unsightly out side connections. Also conceivably can I use one packaged system for bed room and living space. I asked HVAC guys and they speak back to me as if in a foreign languages and look at me as if I’m their kids college fund.

I've installed 6 ACIQ units over the past year and have been very happy with all of them so far

I thought these were for sewage

I used to do this manually. In the copper tubing we would put a copper wire screen roll inside the pipe. Solder one end close. Then leave a small pin dot hole and inject isopropyl alcohol inside. Put a plug over the pin hole. Bake the core for an hour at 300 degrees. Pull the pin hole plug and burp the system about 3 times in that hour. It would create a vacuum and increase the cooling/ heating effect. You could put it in tap water and it would start boiling. Crazy technology.

Anyone know good contactor in Maryland?

👍👍👍👍👍

The conversions used in HVAC efficiency metrics, such as those between SEER and SEER2, or EER and EER2, are indeed close estimates rather than exact conversions. These conversions are intended to provide a way to relate older metrics to newer standards after adjustments have been made to reflect changes in testing procedures or regulatory standards. The conversions are practical tools for comparison but should be understood as approximations rather than precise mathematical equivalents. System Type Application: • Category 1 (5-ton ≤ SEER/SEER2): Typically, SEER and SEER2 are the relevant metrics. If the system is a heat pump, then HSPF/HSPF2 would also apply. • Category 2 (5-ton > EER/EER2, IEER): For larger systems, EER, EER2, and IEER are more relevant. If these systems are heat pumps, then HSPF/HSPF2 and COP/COP2 would also be considered. Equations: 1. Cooling a. SEER & SEER2: • Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) • Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio 2 (SEER2) • Conversion: 1. SEER = SEER2 × 1.045 2. SEER2 = SEER / 1.045 3. SEER = EER / 0.813 b. EER & EER2: • Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) • Energy Efficiency Ratio 2 (EER2) • Conversion: 1. EER = EER2 1.04 2. EER2 = EER / 1.04 3. EER = SEER × 0.813 c. IEER: • Integrated Energy Efficiency Ratio (IEER) • Conversion: IEER=(0.02×EER@100%)+(0.617×EER@75%)+(0.238×EER@50%)+(0.125×EER@25%) o Example EER is 11: EER at 100% load = 11.0 EER at 75% load = 13.9 EER at 50% load = 18.4 EER at 25% load = 19.1  IEER=(0.02×11)+(0.617×13.9)+(0.238×18.4)+(0.125×19.1)  IEER=0.22+8.5763+4.3792+2.3875  IEER= 15.563  IEER=~15.6 2. Heating a. HSPF & HSPF2 (Heat Pumps Only): • Heating Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) • Heating Seasonal Performance Factor 2 (HSPF2) • Conversion: 1. HSPF = HSPF2 × 1.18 2. HSPF2 = HSPF / 1.18 b. COP: • Coefficient of Performance (for Heat Pumps and sometimes Chillers) • Conversion: 1. COP = HSPF × 0.293 2. HSPF = COP / 0.293

What is the benefit of as much as a 40% lower price over other brands if you have problems? First off, I set my heat to 59F 24/7 last Winter, and my electric bill was still $250+ for a 900 sq ft home. I froze all Winter because I could not afford to raise the heat to a comfortable 73-74F. Then, Summer came, and so did problems. My rental property has a Goodman. I am not sure of the model or the size. It has to cool and heat 900 sq ft. The unit is one year old this month. It froze up earlier this month. There was ice on the fat copper wire in the closet inside. I presume there was ice on the outside unit. At least that was what I understood. Waited hours for the ice to melt, and afterward, it cooled fine. I asked what caused this to happen? My filter was NOT dirty. I change filters regularly. I do not have a choice because I have respiratory problems. It cooled fine for another day and half. I kept checking the closet because I was worried. Sure enough, a day and half later, a sheet of ice formed on the fat copper pipe again. I pushed the temp up to 78 with fan set on ON as instructed. Tech came back and eventually declared the computer(?) board was bad. Said it was bad from the factory. So, he replaced the board. It took 4 hours total to switch out the board. About 40 minutes of those 4 hours was to collect the replacement part from a shop somewhere. I like to be safe than sorry, so after the board was replaced, I put the bucket back in the clot again just in case. Sure enough, it leaked. The man said it needed insulation, which it has never had before. He came back a third time and added a foam rubber material all up and down the copper pipe. In an abundance of caution, I put the bucket back in the closet again. I checked the closet that evening, and sure enough, there was water leaking out of the insulation into the bucket. Now, however, I also saw another leak on the wood boarding that holds up the unit in the closet. So, I put a plastic bowl there, and it began to collect water as well. I left everything alone for the next 3-4 days to see if this was perhaps residual water and it would stop. It has not stopped. The water in the bucket and in the bowl combines equals about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of water every couple of days. However, the HVAC has cooled the house just fine ever since the board was replaced. I have NEVER had to keep buckets and bowls in an HVAC closet to catch dripping/leaking water before. I cannot believe this is normal. Is it? I am not sure what to do. I am afraid to complain again since this is a rental property, and they hate to do maintenance. I am worried, however, that there is still a problem, and if it goes unchecked, it could get much worse and possibly even kill the unit. I do not know if the problem is the unit itself or the people who installed it. Anyone??

Videos I've seen showed slight differences from my 3 ton ACiQ system. Also, the kind of thermostat you use and whether you add aux electric heat changes how the wiring is installed. I found the instructions for wiring with my configuration confusing so these notes may save you some time. All HVAC videos I saw powered the AHU from a 240v output on the condenser unit. My 36K ACiQ condenser unit did not have an L1-L2 output to send power to the AHU, so I simply added a separate 20A 240v line to the AHU to power the circuit boards and fan. (15A 240v should be adequate so I plan to switch to 15A). My system included an 8K aux electric heat coils which came with a single 60A breaker installed at the AHU so you need another 240v line run from your electric panel using wire and a breaker properly sized for your size heat coil. The breaker at my panel for this is 40A for 8K. (I'm not sure why the included breaker at the AHU is 60A, seems to big). With the T755 thermostat recommended by HVACdirect you need 7 wires from the thermostat to the AHU but you do NOT run any thermostat wires to the condenser unit outside. Instead you only have to run an 18/2 shielded wire from the S1 and S2 terminals in AHU to S1 and S2 in condenser unit. Dip Switches: RED bank: SW1-1 on; SW4-1 on; SW4-2 on: all the other SW switches off. A pair of blue dip switches at top of data circuit board to the right of the thermostat wires are both in UP/on position. A pair of blue dip switches on bottom between two dial switches are both DOWN/off. My new system ran perfectly with this configuration. AC was very cold and the ACiQ 3 ton AHU blower was very strong, much stronger than the same size Goodman unit I replaced. Inside and outside the units run so quiet I can hardly tell they are on. It's only run for one day but I am very pleased with this system so far.

I’m about to install one of these for the first time so I am grateful you saved me from frying the PCB. Can these outdoor units be used with a Goodman air handler?

Hello, Thank you for the video. Is there any information blower motor and its direction can be reversed? The motor I have is broad-ocean zkfd-560 and it's setup for clockwise direction. How can this be set to counter clockwise?

Can the heat pump… cool my house? Or is it just heat?

These regulations are only there to allow hvac companies to rip you off.

Try to heat a home in Maine with just a heat pump. I hope you like blankets and being cold.

What is the temperature break even point between natural gas and electric heat pump. My best estimate is 40 F. Above 40 a heat pump is less expensive than a natural gas furnace. Of course fuel and electric costs vary and greenhouse gas emissions are not included in the calculations.

Heat Pumps Explained What I have tell you will surprise you. I’ve spent 14 yrs & counting researching & testing. Proven Results. #1 Heat Pump? Outside. Reality is NO such thing. 220 Volts #2 The Real Heat is Produced inside the Home with a Furnace that Contains a Heat Coil. The Outside (Fan ) Unit is Actually the A/C Unit. 220 Volts. Realistically as Theory ( Unproven ) Provides NO Heat at All!! Total Power Consumption Minimum 440 Volts per Hour. Heat produced 95-100 Degrees. Thermostat 72-74. This is a Farce. However, Nobody Admits it. Service Technicians will Argue in Vain. Sales People same thing!! Also Most People say, they're Not Actually Very warm. So they buy Extra Heaters which of course adds another 110 Volts per Hr. for each additional Heater Unit inside. Heat is Costly. What’s really happening is Fluid is Circulated from the Furnace Unit to the Fan Unit A/C and Runs thru a Huge Coil Network In the Fan Unit, then back to your Furnace again. This Continuous Circulation runs until the Desired Temperature ( Thermostat Setting ) and then Shuts off. Comes on again when Heat inside Loses Temperature and Runs again till the Desired Temperature is once again achieved. Now here’s the Kicker. Nobody will tell you this? Long Explanation in Short. Truth is the Furnace Produces the Actual Heat. k. Problem now is the Heat you just Paid for is then Sent Outside to a Very Cold Fan Unit. Fluid Circulating ( Basically Freon ) thru a Network of Piping. Furnace ( Hot Fluid ) sent Outside to Fan Unit which in Turn Discharges the Heat Outside and then Cold Fluid Circulates back to the Furnace and you in Turn Enjoy Heating the Fluid Again. Process of about 10 Seconds. 6 x a Minute. In & Out and Round we go. Heat it up, Cool it Down and vice versa. 6 x a minute. Think about that? You pay for Continuous Reheating? Doesn’t make good sense at all. 440 Volts Per Hr. Check your Power Bill and Figure it out. I can’t divulge anymore. Sorry. Our Story goes like this. Feb. 2010. Very Cold Month. Power Bill Skyrocketed to Over $1,000 for 1 month. Forget that Nonsense. Short version, I made 1 Adjustment on the Thermostat. We had a Budget Bill Payment Plan. Currently was $485. The $1,000 Bill would have Increased Payment to $529. So with the Adjustment I made, you won’t believe this, but some 17 months later, the payment was $0.00 Zero. Zip, Zilch. Next month $48. A Whopping Savings!! Also Gained 30 degrees more heat at NO Extra Charge. Just Incredible . Now 130 Degrees. Toasty Warm.

I have a RLXFWH 18,000 BTU unit. Is it WiFi compatible?

All of those included "communicating" thermostats are flat out awful, and look like technology that was invented in the 1980's! Do any of Aciq's centrally ducted (4 ton) systems qualify for the federal tax rebate in the north climate?

Problem is that cheep air conditioner ?

My drip pan in the attic keeps filling up

This guy knows his shit.

I live in a condo. How do I clean my outdoor unit that is on roof?

Why you always talk only about money in your comparison gas/oil furnace vs heat pump, and no single word about the pollution of this outdatet gas guzzlers?

Thank you! Very helpful. I had a clogged drain.

I have always questioned the idea that a heat pump is more efficient than a natural gas furnace. I like how he explains it because now I understand that the heat pump is more energy efficient but that doesn't mean cheaper to operate. I spend way less on the gas to heat my house in the winter than I spend in electricity to run the A/C int the summer (A heat pump being basically an A/C unit running in reverse.)

god only knows how much money this video saved me! thank you! my drain trap was clogged from years of calcium deposit build up, a little 18" plastic drain rooter did the job!

All I won't to install the heat pump cost no more no less

Nothing technically helpful

Why does my unit leak water from the ribbed hose drain connections Its a garbage design

So if only and only qualified installers can install these to whom is this video address to ?

Cassette Units Uses Duct Pipes ???

My rental AC seems to do this every year. But usually only when I cook for some reason. They always act like I must be doing something to cause it, but it just seems to be a crappy system. I have to keep it on 77/78 during the summer.

In Boise Idaho area . . . does anyone know who might install a system that i purchase myself?

Extremely helpful and informative video. Thank you.

Guess what, must of the heat pumps use R290 (propane) Ok, they don't use, they cycle between high pressure and low pressure not actually consuming it😅

my neighbor bought a good man brand new. and it turn out to be a badman. broke down 6 times less than a year, so I need to replace mine. I decide to go with carrier....

you have the best website

Where does the s1 and S2 wire go to and what gauge wire does it need to be? And if I have th2 s1 and s2 hooked up, do i need to hook up the thermostat wires too?