This is an extremely helpful video. Thanks a million!

hello Mr. GK, how did you connect the power cord please? that's the only step I am missing LOL. can you please tell me how it was done? thanks

Awesome fix! Better than the original. Thanks for the post!

What method did you use to remove the calcium build up on tile?

Woudnt clipping against the code ?

JUST a QUESTION. Will the circuit board from the old light that you screwed into get corroded? I didn't see any rubber seal between the new light and the old light housing. You showed that there was a little wobble space when you shook it which means that water was going to get inside. Can you clarify that a little more please. Thanks, and great DIY video.

Warning Any time u don’t something like this your liable

Why would you splice the wires and use liquid tape instead of just running the new light cable to the junction box or transformer that the original lights were ran to?

Also from Phoenix. My Hayward has a 120v light. Did you have to add/change a transformer at the controller to add this 12V light?

I don't thinkbi ever got the led changer...

G K - Thanks for creating this KZbin! I replaced my 120VAC Hayward with the Eapmic 12V 45W Pool Light, and CNBRIGHTER Waterproof 12V AC Transformer. I control the light with a WiFi plug (mounted in a weather resistant GFCI outlet) activated by my Amazon Echo that feeds an outdoor boom box which stays outside. "Alexa, turn the pool light on". Quickly turning off and on the AC power will step the pool light through common colors (remote control is not needed). The color change feature works when using Alexa voice commands. 😊 The installation was easy!

I just bought that light and will try to replace my damaged Hayward one tomorrow. Did you leave your Hayward Transformer in place?

You are not an electrician and you should not give this advice. If you were you would not. For example, if someone just did it like that and had 120 volts, it would not work well. There is a code for a reason. Plus the brand. Exactly what brand are you trusting your life to ?

UPDATE: It's now been two years since I made this video and the light is still going strong, except, I think it's time to change the battery in the remote. I appreciate all of the wonderful comments and the great suggested improvements on my original ideas. And I appreciate the warnings about the possibility of rust forming from the circuit board. I will remove it from the mount soon and check on that. At the time of install the possibility of rust did occur to me, but I figured that the inside of the light had already been filled with water for at least two years and there was no sign of rust, so I didn't worry about.

Do you have to drain the pool for this? I thought that you could normally remove the light with the power off. You could do all of this with the light on the edge of the pool. Someone correct me please?

I have two Hayward lights that both died. Same story. No way I wanted to drop 2k+ on new ones. I watched this video several times and did some reading on the reviews of the light and decided to give it a go. I ended up buying two 12x12 acrylic sheets and using a router to cut perfect circles the same diameter as the old lights. There are screws on the top and bottom of my niche so it made it a little cleaner for me. This video saved me from making another large investment. Thank you!

Thank you for doing and recording this so that others like me can "stand on your shoulders." I did this thanks to what this video showed me what I would be up against. Pool company quoted $1200 for light plus labor. This would have been my 3rd one. 1st one last 16 months. 2nd one lasted 18 months. No way I was going to pay out another $1200+ to Hayward after such a poor product. This last one was 20% full of water when I gutted it and turned it into a $1200 niche adapter. Pro tips: I would HIGHLY recommend you cut out all the electronics out. The electronics will corrode and rust in the pool. They have all sorts of chemicals like lead and mercury that you do not want leaking into your pool. The added bonus is that will leave you with a sizeable hole in the center which allows you to pass the cable without having to cut that notch you did near the 8'o'clock location. Lastly, be sure to sand or shaving any rough or sharp edges left after the "surgery" because they will be dangerous to you as you handle the plastic, and they can also cut into the cables as the cables wiggle due to water movement while the pool is in use over time if you pass them through the center hole like I did. Bonus: I was able to do it all without draining my pool in just 1 weekend.

GK- first thanks for the video. I've gone through two Haywards in 6 years. This is on my list and I've been looking at that light on Amazon. Can you tell me if I can use my existing transformer? Was your old Hayward wired into a transformer? My wiring comes from the light, to the transformer, to the breaker, to a 110 light switch in the house. That is my current set up. I'd have to turn the switch on and off to change the color of the Hayward. Just wondering if I could use this same switch to turn it of and on and use the remote to change the colors.

Thank you for making this DIY vid friend. I just replaced my Hayward garbage that lasted 3yrs. Replacement was $1200 at my local pool store. The Amazon replacement was $51 bucks and a weekend of following your steps. I bought 2 extra Amazon 45w replacement lamps in case they discontinue this model and harness setup. I have at least 5-10yrs of not having to worry about my pool light. Thanks again for taking the time.

GREAT video thank you!

Thanks! Just this weekend I used this video as the basis for replacement of our Color logic light that hasn't worked for years. I had a few differences in my install, but this was a HUGE help. My Dremel tool was very useful!

There's so many issues and questions I see. But my biggest is draining the water. Would that nit offset the price of just getting a new Hayward bulb? I get them for 400$

Does it work with your Heyward keypad to change the colors, or do you have to use the remote it comes with.

Outstanding Ingenuity !!!! I'm sure you could stabilize that mount wobble with some silicone backing or rubber gasket cut out from a 12 x 12 rubber sheet.

Hayward is such a ripoff when it comes to their ColorLogic light. My light lasted just past the warranty and I refuse to pay their inflated price for a replacement ($1,000. plus installation). I would attempt to do what you did, but I'm 71 and disabled, so I will live without a pool light which is a luxury not a necessity. Thank you for an excellent video.

Update: OK I also replaced my Hayward Color logic pool light with this same light in GK's video. I put the mounting bracket on the back of the light and it keeps the pool light from moving. It fits inside the niche. I removed the Hayward light completely and the screw for the new light fit right into the niche. I used splices for the wire that I had to heat shrink. Then I put more heat shrink of the entire cable about 6" past both ends of the previous heat shrink, and used a torch to seal the heat shrink. I had to buy the transformer at a cost of about $95.00 and the light cost me about $75.00. Light has been working fine for about 3 weeks now and I am very happy that I have fixed the problem, saved $800.00 and satisfied the new code that calls for all new pool lights to be low voltage.

Will this work with multiple lights? Will they color sync?

I did this just as he said, works great. Then I helped my neighbor and we did his pool light. Not hard

I actually hate Hayward products now specifically because of this niche they designed so that people are forced to buy their lights only which are completely overpriced pieces of junk. My pool was built in 2019 and im sure my builder which is a hayward supplier was told by hayward to start building their pools with these niches so people will be forced to re purchase their shitty lights. Now im stuck with this crappy niche for the pool and i have colorlogic a spa light that needs to be replaced also. Havent even looked into that one but im sure its the same bs.

Doing the cord like that is dangerous, illegal everywhere in the US and just lazy. Oh and that was alot of extra work you did to convert the nich when blue square mnfg makes an adapter

Sweet video you saved me about $1000. I pulled out the circuit board, leaving only the old LEDs which are sealed. I drilled the new bracket using the 4 outmost posts through the outer ring of the old light, some mods with the oscillating tool to get it flush. This allowed me to use the included screws. I would have bought a new Hayward but for the price and awful reviews forget about it! Shame on Hayward. This was easy to do thanks!

My Hayward dies after the first season and after the warranty expired.

UPDATE: It’s been over a year and the light is working just fine! Thanks for all the wonderful comments and suggestions. This is my first youtube video and I had a blast doing it. I appreciate y’all taking the time to watch. My wife keeps bugging me to make more as I’m always coming up with creative ways to accomplish home projects.

This video was a true life saver! We followed your wonderful step by step instructions and replaced our light with the Hayward which was only $66 and the light looks wonderful!!! Thanks for the video!

@GK are you able to ground the new light? On Amazon it is only showing 2 wires.

This is the best video on this subject. For those worried about the electronics, just keep digging once you cut the lens off. There are some grey round posts inside holding the circuit board down. Buzz those off and pull it out cutting the two brass conductors coming in from the backside (same area where you cut off the cord from the back). Buzz off the prism. Then pry the LED board off. I ended up cutting the whole back out around the LED panel and it still left me room to mount the bracket. Mainly because I'm using a small waterproof junction box* and was worried about it fitting through a cable notch like this videographer did. *Junction box (amazon description: 2Pcs IP68 Waterproof Electrical Junction Box Outdoor Underground Wire Connector Junction Boxes for 2 or 3 Pin Cables Ø 0.23-0.47 Inch). I wrapped the whole connection in silicone tape. As the videographer states, these are disposable. If the connection doesn't hold up, so what. I'll try something else. I can fail 10-15 times before I exceed the cost of one hayward. With all the videos on here, I'm shocked there isn't some sort of class action suit against hayward. Afterthoughts: Because I gutted the chassis more than this video suggests there was significant space between the ends of the hardware. I used the exact same nuts/bolts as in this video. If I ever have to replace, I think I would cut some standoffs from one of those rigid reusable nylon drinking straws. As I tightened the nuts the bracket would flex. It took some time to get it tight but not too tight. Also, if you do what I did, it's better to mark up the holes for the bracket from the back of the old light chassis. The holes like up with some slanted parts if you try to drill from the front.

I live in Phoenix and my Hayward pool light also stopped working last week. I ordered the same light you did but it does not come with the transformer. Where did you get your transformer? Thanks

First off I have to say wow I am truly impressed with your detail in this video. I have the same issue as many others and am glad to see another possible solution to address this situation with. I have not tried this yet as I am still in the trouble shooting phase but thanks great video

Splicing the wires in that method is not only a violation of NEC code, but also completely unsafe. Sure you saved $100 dollars, but it's going to cost you thousands in a lawsuit when that liquid tape fails.

Hello G K ... Quick question just to be sure, the OG Hayward wires are black and white (and the ground which I am assuming you didn't connect), the new light you recommended has a red and a blue, how did you connect the two? what color to what color? Thanks BL

So, besides the price, on your opinion is this light more or less brighten than the old Hayward? The illumination is as "deep" as the H.? The angle of illumination is wider or narrow than H? About the refraction of the light on the surface compared with the H, which one is more noticeable or even annoying? Thanks for your time.

For the next cable splicing occasion try the 3M 23 Self Bonding Electrical Tape. It's safer and more tough for this type of jobs.

I had my light replaced today by Blue Hippo in SW Fla with a Hayward colorlogic LPCUS11050 and it did cost 900 with installation and a two year guarantee. three other pool contractors wanted 1,250 to 1,500 for Pentair Intellibrite installed and it wasn't going to interface with Aqualogic without a diode board, 100 bucks. The Hayward that i replaced was installed in 2006 and it wasn't tripping GFI and wasn't leaking at all. It had just reached its life end and was still lighting but flickered in and out. I will be listing the old one on ebay for parts only and will get someone to buy it. Crossing my fingers on new design Hayward for getting a few years out of it. I would have tackled your avenue of repair if my neuropathy in hands and feet didn't have me all cramped up. Hope all is still going well with yours. T Y

How’s the light working for you it’s good?

Is still working?

I have 14 volts going to the light, the futures say 12 volts will it be ok getting 14 ?

Not legal

Love the light also the sound effect for party mode good job

I did check the wires coming from the pool light, there were two wires,not three as I thought. I have to leave Florida for a month and will do what you did when I get back in September.