Thank you. The ones from Texas stay outside all winter. They look dead by January but come back strong in the spring. I always have to cut of a section or two that wilts, but the stalk and root systems survive the cold.

Thanks for your comment. I didn't rent the machine and do it myself. I paid a crew to come out and do it. I am not experienced with that type of machinery and didn't want to take a chance on damaging something or hurting myself.

@@markbutler6893 I hear ya. I also had zero experience it's a learning curve.

I had them all hand dug out but he still hit them. Apparently if you are on rubber tires and not grounded on the ground, you won't die.

​@@markbutler6893just expensive

I didn't want to spend $30k. Fixed it myself for about $5k. It is still not leaking, 3 years and many big rains later...

lmao. this is a relatively small segment too. If you want to do 100+ linear feet, this could easily cost you upwards of 60k. The work itself is braindead simple, but in many places you won't have companies willing to do this so they'll charge out the ass.

I found it at a plumbing supply shop.

usually, yes. if you live someplace where people give a fuck you need to move

Thanks for your comment Joseph and much respect sir. The membrane is very sturdy and designed to endure pressure. It is also designed to adhere to the concrete basement wall so that no moisture can get between it and the foundation of the home. I think your idea would leave some vulnerabilities.

Bro what rocks are going to cut a membrane? Are you backfilling with rip rap, why not use pea gravel??

I had steel beams put in when I bought the house in 2012, but the wall is stable... the beams were intended to keep it from pushing in more.

I dug a trench for the drain and put a layer of gravel under the corrugated pipe that runs to the sump pump.

@@markbutler6893 thank you for always replying and trying to help. What I am asking about is the vertical barrel that you have the sump pump in it. The bottom of this barrel I see it’s open. Is it gravel underneath there for concrete?

@@markbutler6893 I meant the catch basin for the sump pump. Is it gravel at the bottom or concrete?

It worked and still does not leak

@@markbutler6893 thank you for replying, that will give me the courage to follow your lead

No. It not being a joint caused that I guess technically it's a cold joint. Not a control joint or expansion joint in block

Thank you! I appreciate your critique. Makes sense!

John, please tell us more. You seem to know what you are talking about.

Glad it was helpful!

Check out DanielOConnor channel/HydroArmor at kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHfbpZuojqyqobs&ab_channel=DanielOConnor for even more info.

It's been over 2 years and not a single drop of water in the basement.

@@markbutler6893 first of all 2 years is a very short time for below grade waterproofing. But I’m happy it is working. You were very smart by also installing gravel and the sump pump. I installed and repaired waterproofing and sealants for over 40 years. Like I said I have had to repair dozens of self adhered membranes that failed when installed like this. But in your case the membrane may not be critical because you have removed a huge part of its load by substantially reducing hydrostatic pressure. Again very smart.

Bullwinkle crap

@@manderson5397 as if you know. There are basements that have no waterproofing and don’t leak. There are others that flood. Sometimes simply sloping the soil will stop leaks. Sometimes no matter what you do, if the walks were not properly waterproofed you can’t stop the leak. It all depends on the amount of ground water and the hydrostatic pressure. These are facts. The membrane was installed very amateurishly and WILL NOT STOP WATER INFILTRATION LONG TERM. This is a fact. By trying to lower the hydrostatic pressure he MAY stop water infiltration. This is a fact. I have waterproofed basements that are 5 stories or more below sea level. Most residential below grade waterproofing is a joke and people that install it don’t have a clue what they are doing.

LOL, hmm i've been waterproofing basements 46 yrs and guarantee in writing they won't leak for 20 yrs - "Soaking the soil STOPS leaks"... lol wow, you obviosuly do not guarantee that in writing, got milk? @@genecarden780

Still no leaks, 2 years later

I don't think they do.

You're proposing they leave a 10 foot deep, 30 foot long pit open?

Maybe we can do a cactus exchange some day

Yeah we always torch them then come back with wire brush before we ad anything

Haha! Thanks Chuck!

You are correct Dave. This dawned on me later.

Exactly. Just had my basement waterproofed. The company that did the work at my house also used a waterproof membrane, but it had the black plastic on the two sides. In the middle and next to both sides looked like a nylon cooler clear plastic lining and then there were bubbles in it as well. It was layered and about 3/8 to 1/2 thick, as opposed to the membrane used here(i.e. lets say this membrane was a sandwich. The two slices of "bread" was the outer black membrane, the two slices of "cheese" was the clear plastic lining next to the bread, and the bubbles were in the middle). They also had a propane torch that they used to melt adhesive along the edges of the membrane to the wall They ran it down the wall, over the footer and then down below the edge. There was a trench that was dug out in front of the footer that was about a foot wide and deep. They dug out all of the clay and refilled it with drain rock. I don't really know this guys area, but I think it may take a little more rain and complete saturation of the ground for him to tell if his work was successful. Just an overnight two inches may not do the trick. I had dug out the area around my basement a few times by had and did what I could to seal it. The last time was over ten years ago. I just dug down to the footer, sealed the wall and footer and put in some new pipe and put some drain rock. It was back breaking, as I had to dig down over six feet. Well, too old to be doing that now, so we hired some professionals, got several estimates, one was twice the amount of the one that we hired, and they did the exact same work as the the more expensive one, who was more comprehensive, calling for sawing thru our concrete patio to run the drain line from the sump pump. I think we got a great deal. I probably could have done this years ago if I knew all the stuff that needed to be done and had the proper materials.

Any chance the company is in Florida i can't find anyone ​@@williewade1

The power cables are buried very deep, coming from the main line in the street (around 4 feet deep from the surface). It is a requirement to have the locator service come out and spray paint your grass to indicated where the power/gas/water are before you start digging. This house was built in 1977, so maybe they wrap the lines better nowadays, but this is a common practice.

In the USA call 811 before you dig , drill or blast