You a strong man it's an awkward weight to move. Just got mine 😃

Lowe's clearance sale July 1-24. They marked it down to 49 dollars from 149.00. Is it worth it to get it?

Very helpful I used this method and it works perfectly

You needed to route relief grooves with a straight bit first so your dovetail bit didn’t have to work so hard. 🫶🏻🇨🇦

Great video, although I do have a couple of questions. 1. What is the v-carve type bit you're using? 2. What is the depth of the cuts? it seems a single v-carve is doing the single job. 3. What seal did you use? Can it be used on paint? I'm trying to paint the wood black, use the oramask to carve out lettering then applying different coloring. but it seems I need to cut them out first? I appricate your time and video. Cheers.

The jig is the magic for making dozens of these quickly. Thanks 👍💪

6-13-2024- huge reduction in quality. Does NOT come partially assembled and the instructions are atrocious!!! Thought this video would help but it doesn't come like this anymore. I wish it looked like the one in this video!!

Christcross'll make ya (Jump jump)

You used sanding sealer before the Oramask, but don’t you need to get it into the engraved areas after carving (or did I miss that step)? It seems like stain or paint could get into the newly exposed endgrain and migrate that way.

I bought the Surfprep before even knowing of this one : / Do you know if these pads are compatible with the Surfprep sander ? Thank you

At about 10:30', you had a circular closeup (?) while you were winding the router up and down. What did the closeup show, and was there anything on the Triton that made winding easy? Thanks

Great idea to jig buid

I have the same machine. I just got this gauge it’ll be here shortly. Curious if you’ve found making adjustments on the spindle to last awhile, or if you regularly need to perform this operation. I’m starting to feel more prominent lines in my spoilboard, which of course isn’t gonna be acceptable. Will be nice to have the gauge, just wondering how often you do this. Thanks 🤙🏽

Thank you. You have saved me.

Ty for the video

Charlotte in house.

Of all the "feeds and speeds" videos I watched, this was the FIRST one to tell and show me how to test my specific machine so I can document my recommended feeds and speeds for MY setup. If I purchased an off-the-shelf cnc from Shapeoko and the rest, they would have most of the F&S documented already - which is a *significant* value for a new CNC-er. I built my own setup based on recommendations from a friend in the industry and it's capabilities are somewhere in the middle to low-middle range of CNCs out there. Now I know how to figure out the best settings for it! THANK YOU for **demonstrating** how to test a machine! Well done! (Yes, it wasn't a fun and interesting video, but it was just as valuable - maybe more valuable - than the fun ones!)

I am really diving into feeds and speeds before I get my Axiom Iconic8 which gets delivered tomorrow. This is very informative! One more thing that would be very interesting that I will probably do when I get setup and run this test is get an infrared temp reader and check the bit temp at the end of each cut to see how the bit is handling the speed/feed. I currently have a X Carve and I have toasted (3) 1/4" bits running them too slow. Thanks for all of your hard work on this!

Picking up this tool asap.

How did you permanently fix the fence after squareing from the initial blade cut?

This is so perfect, I just ordered an Axiom Iconic 8 and didn't want to go the toolbox and was going to make one and here you have it! I love how you made it fit in like it is metal but made from wood. I used to program CNC's for a living and they all had the pin setup for a fence, although they were pneumatic and raised and lowered with G code so I will add in your fence system also. I don't know how close my Iconic table is to yours, it is a 2x4 but may be different. Lots of projects to keep me busy! Keep up the good work.

I have a general question. This is the first big project I used oramask and when I pulled the oramask off it left a sticky residue on project. Is there a special way to get the residue off without removing the paint underneath? Thank you.

Glad I found this. I was blessed with extra meat on my hooks so this is a game changer.

That variation in hole size is likely due to backlash on the ball screws or something of that sort. I doubt that Axiom controls have an adjustment for it. I spent 25+ years as a tool and die maker programming and running some very high end steel cutting mills and Fanuc controls have a way to compensate for the ball screw backlash down to .0001 of an inch. Not required for woodworking but it does make a difference in some cases like this. If you want tight holes on a mid range router, I would suggest cutting the hole .005-.010 undersize and use a reamer for final fit.

I have an earlier Delta Contractor Saw 34-445 that I got it from a neighbor, and the blade guard assembly was missing. I considered the splitter assembly you purchased, but costs a $108. I'm cheap. What I did get uses the mount you removed. It is a Guard Assembly w/Separator (Part# N436623) for a Dewalt DWE7485 Contractor Saw for $36.80 + shipping. It does require some minor metal cutting, but works great, and has a port on it if you want to add vacuum.

You should have spent the money on a Bosch instead of that Junk orange router.

If you have weak eyes the protractor is very hard to read. I use the Sawset Pro easier on my eyes.

Hi awesome build. I am in need of the rectangular connection from the impeller side to the dust bag ring. Do you know where I can find one? I cant tell you how many I have watched but lots of new things from each.

That is extremely overbuilt for the less than 20 lbs you have on that.I built something similar with only 2x4s and it was able to hold m 200+ lbs on one bracket. The main difference was that I used the 2x4s the wide way because I have to screw it into the finished wall and instead of plywood, I used a section of 2x4 cut at a 45 degree angle and it is all supported from the top because there is peg board beneath it, so there is even less strength than what you built.

Very interesting setup. Currently trying to get mine set up. At the very end of this video, a piece of slotted angle bracket was mentioned and shown, but I could not see how it was employed. Please clarify. Also really like the lifting handle! It would be very helpful if a pattern, or picture, of the arm could be posted. Thank-you for sharing!

Well done Sir!

Thank you. You provided some great ideas for me.

Great video thanks for sharing! Could you let me know the spacing center to center on you t-slot table? Thanks!

Is it necessary to get mirror glass vs just a regular glass like you're using?

Very clever idea!!! Just what I needed for my garage!

In order to make the above table height adjustment, does the button on the handle have to be pushed in?

7:27 these two angled feels swapped ?

Ahh, how things have changed.. I used to use a HAND counter sink tool to do mine. I did order an Amana one a few days ago!

Countersink, not counterbore. A counterbore has a flat bottom. Thank you for taking the time to do the comparison. I'm going with the Amana.

Looks food

Awesome sled, coming to the Microjig party late. Do you sell plans for this sled? I’m interested if so.

looking to upgrade my shark510. after having the Axiom are you happy and would you consider this move an upgrade? comment on the differences

Where did you get the drum with the white locking lid?

Grest video!! I have an Iconic 8 and would appreciate a copy of your file. I’m just setting up my reference pin locations and this video is perfect!

I like the dust shroud adapter for the router table application, where did you get that part? I'm planning on getting this soon and liked that idea better than building an encloser for the router. Also, do you find you use the back side of your table saw fence or have you done anything on the back side as a fence in your setup?

Love my 20 inch one and just recently went about welding up 2 cover for my 2 shipping container whirlybirds and the gauge makes quick and close enough measurements.

" 3-2-1" 😂 I have the same one on the way. I intend to create a router plate that i can eaily pull out of the table and onto my flattening sled. I havent seen anyone do it so far.

Did you use 3/4" ply to start? The microjig site says the dovetail projects about 3/8" up and it looks like that goes very nearly halfway through the stock. Just wanted to confirm if that's been thick enough to maintain rigidity. Given all the jigs you built for it since, I'd assume yes?

Excellent.

Snppy is 8 bucks Amana is 543 bucks