my style 8 runs fast. like 4 hrs every 24 hrs

Hey I like your video and it helped me a lot while disassembling my Westclox #8(?) I bought it at my local GoodWill and there was already a sticker (probably from person mating it) stating it does not work. Looking over everything g it looks like my center wheel needs to be replaced as the gear attached to shaft is made of nylon. The smaller teeth is stripped so it does not catch on the spring gear attached the to the key. So when you wind it up it just freespins.

If I wanted to boost the fm reception where is the fm antenna so I could put tin foil or solder an extension?

Really impressive video closeups. May I ask what kind of camera setup you have? Also, you did a great job of problem solving on the fly.

The information I found about your channel is to SEO your videos and make your video title, and description, SEO Friendly, rank (#1) in the videos, also by promoting the videos to thousands of groups, bring thousands of views to the videos, also to me. There are some concealing tips I can share with you if you want. Your content is very professional and very beautiful for engaging the audience. but the problem is that it can't reach the right audience. I can help you if you want.

Nvm, watched all the way through, good job taking precautions, most don't.

Wow no way I could sleep through that alarm.

Absolute cinematic masterpiece😂

I just bought mine for 50

Also, the buzzer volume can be adjusted by bending that verticle tab on the top of the buzzer armature. When I come across one that’s not very loud or making a slight humming noise instead of buzzing, it’s been my experience that a slight bend of this tab to the right (towards the dial side) restores it to its original SUPER LOUD buzzer volume that these had when they were new in the 1950s. It’s seems that after years storage or little to no alarm use, the buzzer arm tends to go stiff and lose its volume over time. Unless you prefer it quieter as maybe some people do. I can hear mine from downstairs when it goes off lol. These are known to “wake the dead” if you sleep through the flashing only cycle.

Thanks for the shoutout. I’m glad that my video helped you solve some of the mysteries. The one I filmed is not active (in regular use) and is in need of a cleaning/service. The contact pressure is what was contributing to the flicker when the buzzer started (on mine) I have a couple of Canadian made Moonbeams that are fairly quiet but several U.S. made that are slightly less noisy than the one I filmed.

Hey, I found one of these at the thrift, and the alarm and everything works, but it doesn’t actually keep time! Is there anyway to fix that?

Hi buddy

I believe you can make a small can like a sn̈off can and drill a center hole an let it wind up inside the can so you don't have it slipping off maybe

I care about them ,I have several of them and I appreciate this video.

I still think that method is pretty ingenious, just needs refinement. For one I'd suggest stopping as soon as the spring coils no longer reach over the great wheel. Those drills can twist way harder than they'd ever expect a human to wind those springs up

you may want to put a small disc behind the spring and the chuck this may help keep the spring under control while winding.

Good and video and at least you tried a new idea so don't beat yourself up

Great info I bought an investment house and acquired a very large collection of these watches, I have several you showed in the video what are they worth ?

Thank you! Now all of us have the heads up about those lefty-righty threads.

Hi buddy

The lettering/numbering was black or very dark brown...

I just cleaned the exact same timer, that I bought it in the early 1980's. Dissassembly of the movement seemed unlikely so I used electrical contact cleaner and blew it out with hot air. Back in business. The sticker on the back said, "Turn past 30 and then to the desired time." The movement seems to always run better when at the same angle as mounted in the housing.

For the motor, the date code is centered on the back near the cluster of screw holes appears to say “ 10 53” which tracks since the feet on the brass base appear to be felt as opposed to the rubbber feet still in use in 1951.

The wire contacts were all soldered like that originally.

I have a Philips LED bayonet base bulb in one of mine that is 4 watt output and 35 watt equivalent and it blinks in sequence like the original bulbs. I found it at Lowe’s since Depot doesn’t carry the bayonet base where I live. Ace Hardware carry’s the standard 25 watt incandescent like the original ones. I can’t help but wonder if the one you pulled out that was fried was a 50 watt or higher.

I consider myself good at figuring things out but this would have taken me countless hours and broken watches to get this one. Thanks for sharing.

Congratulation for theHammersmith tools for been busy on one watch

Hi and enjoyed video, I can definitely relate to making do with equipment. I started off learning clocks on a westclox Big Ben, now I repair or Rebuild many different movements. Just a suggestion on cleaning out the bushings or smoothing broach, you can use a Brass taper pin in a pinvise to smooth out the bushing. Fortunately I was recently blessed with a Friend Giving me a Jewelers lathe . I have used it a lot more than I thought I would. I admire your set up for polishing! Keep at it man! I started from a Kitchen table to now having a clockshop with equipment in my Backyard now . God Bless

Those bulbs are available and very common. I just picked up 24v ones for my 1955 m38a1. While doing that I saw 12v 6v and 125v ones. Code should be on the side of it to make your life easier.

Did you ever get this back together? I bought one of these last weekend, oiled the motor and some of the major gears and it is running pretty well. It does seem to generate a fair amount of heat. Nicely built.

Hi bud

If I remember correctly, those bulbs have a spring that they push into, so you have to push down, hold it there and then twist so the pin on the side of the metal base of the bulb lines up with the slot in the socket. But then it has been a long time since I have dealt with anything that had a bulb just like that.

What was wrong with the plug?

A snippet from a 2017 video of mine.

Too much wastage of time plz quickly do your work

I agree with the other comments recommending a process called "retro-brighting" for the yellowed plastic. A plastic tub with a water/hydrogen peroxide hair bleach solution and UV light, either from the sun or UV lamps. There are many channels on youtube dedicated to restoring retro computers from the 70's, 80's and 90's that have good tutorials. Wouldn't be hard to find if you are interested.

Looking at how yellow the plastic is I would say it does look vintage. People that restore old computers and video game consoles have techniques to unyellow the old plastic. Usually using a light source and water with different mixtures of household chemicals.

This channel is a disgrace to the legacy of Batman and Robin. #cancelTheGregolaHorologyClub

That clock seems to be very rare. The only thing I can find on the internet is actually this video.

Like this Ratman and Robin clock… thank you for sharing..

This guy doesn't know what he's doing! he treats the watches like crap! Putting the crystal directly on top of a metal tool with sharp edges and pressing down with the screw driver! Second, prying the watch's hand with ONLY one prying tool will deform the hand due to the uneven pressure on just one side. He should NOT put magnets ANYWHERE NEAR the watches, as that will magnetize them! AND HE TALKS TOO MUCH!

I got more than”something out of this” as you put it. I have watched3 parts so far and am enjoying this series. I hope my thumbs up provides SOME contribution. Thank you very much for sharing this demonstration and a thank you to pinpal20 respectfully.

Very similar movement to the legendary cow timer I've been working on, although yours seems to have more plastic, it's better quality plastic. Mine basically shattered when i looked too hard at it. It'd be worthwhile researching the manufacturer

Although I love trying out new challenges and working on different stuff, I am so glad we didn't get the aluminium 66 over here. That dial design would've been great to have though, it's really smart. We didn't get those annoying click springs either as I'm sure you know, so I guess we had it easy. I think you ought to try my method of removing knobs by "rolling " the needle nose pliers from underneath at some point, it usually works really well for me, although the knobs looked a lot tighter on the ones over there.

was expecting you to actually take this apart. Do the GRC Egg Timer next

There were copies of the Conover book in the gift shop at the NAWCC Museum in Columbia, Pa. today. He wrote or asssembled many books like that.

Hi Greg and your clock has movement model 1703 still not sure what the difference is between 1700 and 1703

Great work! I can see you repaired the chime rod too.