I'll have a set of these off you if you can make more for sale.
@shaunwilkinson2867Ай бұрын
Nice work crafting the custom trays, and machining the swing arm axle spool.
@waynerichard83332 ай бұрын
Didn't your panniers have the third latch for securing to the rack? Did these get the same treatment?
@JDnBeastlet2 ай бұрын
Luckily those were both intact, although I don't have the key and hear that these panniers have a reputation for self-detachment. I am considering supplementary methods of securing and locking them to the bike.
@Grunchy0052 ай бұрын
Screw sizes: everything is M6 including the two #3 Phillips bolts inside. Those are M6x10mm long, I was able to replace them with M6x12 no problem. M6 screws use the 5mm allen key. The two screws that hold the cylinder to the case are M6x25mm long. The other screws are: M6x55 (top of case), M6x40, M6x45 (left & right side of shifter), M6x75 X3 (left side of slave cylinder, underneath slave cylinder, and right side of case). (The two bolts at top & right side of case I'm not sure of because my sprocket cover got destructed due to the chain breaking on the road & bashing out the top of the cover, so I'm actually missing those two bolts.)
@lee-dg9yh3 ай бұрын
Thank you for your effort in producing your video on spline lubes Unfortunately, I must comment so others don’t get misled by some of the items in it. As others have told you, after you posted your video, your splines are indeed severely worn!!! The splines at the final drive end should have the same shape as the splines at the transmission end. Because the snap ring at the transmission end does not allow the shaft to slide in and out on that end, there will be virtually no wear at that end. Virtually all wear will be at the final drive end. If you look at the still photo of the splines on the final drive end of the shaft before you start the video, you will see that each tooth of the spline looks like a very pointy mountain with a very large distinct step on one side. The tooth SHOULD look like a very symmetrical mountain with an almost 1/16” wide flat top. Any lack of symmetry on both sides or narrowness of the flat top is all wear. The large step on the driven side of each tooth indicates a very worn shaft. The narrowness of the peak indicates very little mileage left before the shaft strips completely out. The lube you used, even though it is what is recommended by Clymers and iirc at one point by BMW, has proven over the past 38 years by people who have put many hundreds of thousands of miles on early Kbikes (especially the 20 spline driveshafts that came on the ‘86 and later non paralever bikes) to be sorely lacking in performance. Early Flying Bricks require a good high pressure (unlike Optimol) grease high in molybdenum disululfide (above 50%) preferably with some tacky additive like provided by Wurth 3000 to prevent washout. A highly recommended spline lube is sold by Ted Porter’s Beemer Shop. I also belive the spline lube sold by Euromotoelectrics is a suitable lube. The amount of wear on your shaft might (or may not) indicate similar wear on the final drive input splines. Best option is to buy very good used replacements with little wear. PM me if you are having trouble finding good replacements. Most of what I see on Ebay are as bad as what yours are, even though the sellers say they are fine. Buyer beware! Another tip for those watching your video, never allow the swing arm to sag much more than where the shock allows it to travel. The boot between the swingarm and transmission could be as old as 40 years old and brittle. Excessive droop could tear it, adding $56 (as of this date) to the cost of your spline lube. I see you did put a jackstand under the swingarm, but it was after you had already allowed it to go to full droop while disconnecting the shock. A few other tips, either place a 2x8 or 2x10-12 board under the centerstand (if you are strong enough to get it on the centerstand with the board in place) or roll the rear tire up on a 2x and then place another 2x under centerstand, put it up on centerstand, then remove board from under rear tire. You will then be able to fully remove rear tire without removing rear license plate section of rear fender. Or you could just remove the license plate section of the rear fender to get tire out. Another tip, do not remove the rear shock at either end. After the final drive is disconnected from the swingarm, just slide it back and pivot it 90 degrees and let the shock support it while you remove the driveshaft. Don’t remove the speed sensor, just disconnect it at the connector by the coolant overflow bottle. What ever the method, relube the splines AT LEAST at EVERY rear tire change!!! New driveshafts are currently $750 from BMW and will only go up before they will be No Longer Available (NLA). Re lubing and inspecting the splines is cheap!
@JDnBeastlet3 ай бұрын
lee - thank you for the information as I was unaware. I have updated the description and will republish the video with corrections soon.
@03flhtcui3 ай бұрын
Excellent video. Job well done on your pannier repair job.
@ymendes8 ай бұрын
Very useful for the video you made. One question... does the manual recommend the use of RTV sealant on the joint seats ? Or was this procedure your choice?
@JDnBeastlet8 ай бұрын
Hi there, I followed the Clymer shop manual (www.amazon.ca/Suzuki-GSF1200-Bandit-96-03-Penton/dp/0892878002) as it had much more detail than the Suzuki one. In the section on Valve Clearance Measurement on page 74, steps 14 (a) and (b) specify the use of gasket sealer in the groove of the rubber grommet and the crankcase mating surfaces. I should really clean up the extra that's visible on the outside, though!
@samajier25668 ай бұрын
Nice
@midnightsolartrain14378 ай бұрын
Hi. I like the way how this is done. Great video. What is the milage on the bike?
@JDnBeastlet8 ай бұрын
Thanks! Just over 95,000 km on the clock now.
@williamfoster42688 ай бұрын
You don't have to remove the spark plugs or take the signal generator cover off. With the bike on it's center stand and in sixth gear you can just rotate the rear tire until you have the cams where you need them.
@Bandit1999010 ай бұрын
Very helpful thanks, how are the wheels for moving around did you try them on the tarmac outside your garage? cheers.
@JDnBeastlet10 ай бұрын
I have not - I expect it would work there although with a bit more effort as our driveway surface is not as smooth as concrete. When I do get a chance to try it I'll let you know.
@williamfoster426811 ай бұрын
I have these on my Bandit 600, cheaper than buying a "new" used tank if you drop the bike. I got to find out how well they work when I decided to move the bike around in my hot garage wearing flip flops. The only thing to touch the ground when the bike is laying over now is the handle bar end, front tire and engine guard. TMK.
@williamfoster426811 ай бұрын
I hate vacuum petcocks, they always end up failing eventually. In the future you can replace the OEM petcock with a Yamaha 5KM-24500-10-00 or Chinese clone, direct fit bolt on and it has an extension (if you buy the Chinese clone, Yamaha makes you buy another part).
@rcpimp6419 Жыл бұрын
nice :)
@duanevoss Жыл бұрын
this is for helicopters VPP is variable pitch propeller i think and so while 3 controls throttle 7 controls the cyclic going up and down .you can disable it for planes if you dont need it by going into the function menu going to channel 7 VPP and deselect J3 (mode 2) and selecting nothing .If you are using channel 7 just reasign what you are using it for IE flaps ,gear etc
@robchisholm72 Жыл бұрын
Nice job!!
@JDnBeastlet Жыл бұрын
Thanks Bob!
@RestorationAustralia Жыл бұрын
very cool 😊
@ramjet4025 Жыл бұрын
Another very annoying video without an Audio. Not even text. Perhaps they don't speak english but the lack of text and or voice destroys this video
@glennrebillard3840 Жыл бұрын
Nice! They have the 1000 lbs one on sale right now for $500. I would get it and do the same mods you did, but I want it somewhat moveable but it's over 300 lbs. Have you considered putting casters on it? I just need a way to move it against the wall by myself when I'm not using it.
@volymard2 жыл бұрын
I am really struggling getting the clutch back up on mine. The master cylinder has pressure and new seals. The slave doesn't seem to have any effect on the clutch at all, the piston doesn't come back in, but keeps accepting pressure until the piston seal just gives. Can't see whether it's exerting any pressure on the push rod. Doesn't seem to be. &#$@ these crappy little hydraulic clutches, they suck
@champ88992 жыл бұрын
And your communication is ultra......without the rush shit that many manifest in this fucky age of computators and horse shit!!
@champ88992 жыл бұрын
Your help is much appreciated.You are a fine example of a very special sort!
@kadenreeves42372 жыл бұрын
Video does not help in 2022
@PTRRanger951 Жыл бұрын
Yeah it does. But it only work if you have a shifter, just like he has. I can’t get my real auto to work since it wants something that latches. As soon as you let go of a key, it goes back to neutral.
@watermain482 жыл бұрын
Between the lack of explanation of what you are doing and the really irritating music I found this video basically unwatchable.
@JDnBeastlet2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the feedback, Bill. It's early days of video making for me and your comments are noted.
@keatonpeterson91762 жыл бұрын
I think I'm going to call a locksmith...
@rossi6754462 жыл бұрын
Such a great and informative video 2 things where can I get a manual like that for my 2007 1200s bandit and where did you buy the mityvac from please
@JDnBeastlet2 жыл бұрын
Peter, thanks for the kind words. The manual is a Clymer covering the Bandit 1200 from 1996 to 2003, and very well written in my opinion. It came with the bike so I don't know the source; I would suggest checking with your local motorcycle shops and online. I think I got the Mityvac at my local UAP/NAPA auto parts store, but I see amazon has it as well.
@Gastel2 жыл бұрын
Awesome. Well done.
@banditrider6132 жыл бұрын
what manual are you using as it looks very good ,
@robbateman79872 жыл бұрын
Please note that the spindle is inserted from the RH side of the bike and make sure if you do swap it round you get the chain adjuster block on the correct sides. A lot easier to do chain adjustment this way. Also make sure that sprocket carrier spacer is not damaged it has been know for it to burr up and you cannot tighten the wheel enough (Mk1 only). Those cush drive rubbers did not look right, i did my chain and sprockets on the Mk 2 Bandit at 27000 miles and again at 60000 and they looked good and where a resistance fit. Did the hub bearings and wheel bearings at 60000 also while the wheel was out. I find it a good time to do the suspension linklage bearings too when the wheel come out. Regards Rob UK
@fattymcgee1232 жыл бұрын
That bolt map is awesome. The thing only people who have done it long enough think about. Pure simple genius idea.
@fattymcgee1232 жыл бұрын
Great video John, thanks
@wendyjolliffe17333 жыл бұрын
This is AWESOME!
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
Thanks Wendy!
@sinsooty62903 жыл бұрын
What music is this John? I'm saving your video as my ignition is a bastard to turn the key more often than not. So will be replacing it soon. Drilling metal while wearing sandals 😂
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
I can't remember what the track is called... It came with the video editor I used. Hope the video helps!
@Paper4523 жыл бұрын
Very useful video, watching this got me the Karma to find my key though... Thank god
@jasongrozier82773 жыл бұрын
Ive just got my hands on a 98 bandit 1200 and i have this exact problem lol, shall be stripping it today as its very sloppy and was mentioned on last mot cert
@kubconpl3 жыл бұрын
will this fit in to bandit 600 mk1?
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
I have no way of knowing, but don't the 600s have a cable actuated clutch?
@kubconpl3 жыл бұрын
@@JDnBeastlet 600 have cable but im thinking to change
@acutabove_woodworkings3 жыл бұрын
Nicely done John. This is one of the most useful tool modifications that I have ever done and I only wish I had done it sooner. I'm glad that you were able to get yours completed and now, you can stop busting your knuckles on you drill press auxiliary fence. Thanks for the shout out and for posting the links.
@hoomanpictures3 жыл бұрын
Hi, great video, I had the same problem even after replacement of the rubber seal, the problem was that i installed the rubber with the slot outside, the same as in your picture, the slot has to be in the inner spring side. best regard from Hamburg
@hoomanpictures3 жыл бұрын
@@MrDN81 exactly, this is really important. best regards
@elsierest54853 жыл бұрын
WOW! That was amazing! Hard to believe that was all made from lego!
@LeeroyBJJ3 жыл бұрын
Did you have any issues with a non standard ignition? A lot of them do not have a resister and cause no spark.
@JDnBeastlet3 жыл бұрын
No issues with this one.
@AndyManCam3 жыл бұрын
Very comprehensive! Nicely done. Bandit 1200 owners can consider themselves well demonstrated! Glad the kit finally came back into stock for you John. Happy tankbagging!
@carlosgooglemaps943 жыл бұрын
You had the top yoke out and didn’t paint it??, what a sloppy moron (in a friendly way) 🤣
@MariuszZaleski134 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the video. I found out there is two diameters of the seal. 37mm and 40mm. They look quite similar. I bought 40mm for GSF1200 Bandit 01-05 and it doesn't fit to MK1 1200 from 1996. I couldn't figure how you managed to fit it so easily and I couldn't. I guess a thing to be aware of when looking for seal replacement.
@knightsway1004 жыл бұрын
My brother and I replaced the ignition switch on my B12n. Took less than a hour. We done it through the headlight. The screws holding the switch in were bloody tight. I used a five inch ratchet that has a quarter drive one end and a hex for screw driver bits the other end.
@wilfrex50194 жыл бұрын
amazing video, im rebuilding an 98 1200 and I wasn't sure how to deal with the clutch release, I thought I had parts missing now I know everything is there.
@JDnBeastlet4 жыл бұрын
I glad you found it helpful. Good luck with the project!
@derekbell22985 жыл бұрын
Useful video. Thank you. I have just bought a replacement set for my Bandit 600S, but, on reflection, I think I will just persevere rather than face the hassle. It may have been smarter to have watched your video first.
@JDnBeastlet5 жыл бұрын
Once you know about the red thread lock it's not so bad. It's just time consuming taking everything apart and putting it all back together again.
@olafjensen45085 жыл бұрын
I,ve got to do my B6. Oh fun and games. Job never goes smooth does it
@JDnBeastlet5 жыл бұрын
No repair plan survives contact with the motorcycle. Let us know how your job goes.
@Moonfleet415 жыл бұрын
What a wonderful video, almost like an online service manual, lots of clear images and great narrative... you could follow this easily and get the job done.. congratulations on your channel and getting underway... we wish you many happy videos to come!
@JDnBeastlet5 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the kind words, my friend. Your channel has helped me in immeasurable ways.