I'll have a set of these off you if you can make more for sale.

Nice work crafting the custom trays, and machining the swing arm axle spool.

Didn't your panniers have the third latch for securing to the rack? Did these get the same treatment?

Screw sizes: everything is M6 including the two #3 Phillips bolts inside. Those are M6x10mm long, I was able to replace them with M6x12 no problem. M6 screws use the 5mm allen key. The two screws that hold the cylinder to the case are M6x25mm long. The other screws are: M6x55 (top of case), M6x40, M6x45 (left & right side of shifter), M6x75 X3 (left side of slave cylinder, underneath slave cylinder, and right side of case). (The two bolts at top & right side of case I'm not sure of because my sprocket cover got destructed due to the chain breaking on the road & bashing out the top of the cover, so I'm actually missing those two bolts.)

Thank you for your effort in producing your video on spline lubes Unfortunately, I must comment so others don’t get misled by some of the items in it. As others have told you, after you posted your video, your splines are indeed severely worn!!! The splines at the final drive end should have the same shape as the splines at the transmission end. Because the snap ring at the transmission end does not allow the shaft to slide in and out on that end, there will be virtually no wear at that end. Virtually all wear will be at the final drive end. If you look at the still photo of the splines on the final drive end of the shaft before you start the video, you will see that each tooth of the spline looks like a very pointy mountain with a very large distinct step on one side. The tooth SHOULD look like a very symmetrical mountain with an almost 1/16” wide flat top. Any lack of symmetry on both sides or narrowness of the flat top is all wear. The large step on the driven side of each tooth indicates a very worn shaft. The narrowness of the peak indicates very little mileage left before the shaft strips completely out. The lube you used, even though it is what is recommended by Clymers and iirc at one point by BMW, has proven over the past 38 years by people who have put many hundreds of thousands of miles on early Kbikes (especially the 20 spline driveshafts that came on the ‘86 and later non paralever bikes) to be sorely lacking in performance. Early Flying Bricks require a good high pressure (unlike Optimol) grease high in molybdenum disululfide (above 50%) preferably with some tacky additive like provided by Wurth 3000 to prevent washout. A highly recommended spline lube is sold by Ted Porter’s Beemer Shop. I also belive the spline lube sold by Euromotoelectrics is a suitable lube. The amount of wear on your shaft might (or may not) indicate similar wear on the final drive input splines. Best option is to buy very good used replacements with little wear. PM me if you are having trouble finding good replacements. Most of what I see on Ebay are as bad as what yours are, even though the sellers say they are fine. Buyer beware! Another tip for those watching your video, never allow the swing arm to sag much more than where the shock allows it to travel. The boot between the swingarm and transmission could be as old as 40 years old and brittle. Excessive droop could tear it, adding $56 (as of this date) to the cost of your spline lube. I see you did put a jackstand under the swingarm, but it was after you had already allowed it to go to full droop while disconnecting the shock. A few other tips, either place a 2x8 or 2x10-12 board under the centerstand (if you are strong enough to get it on the centerstand with the board in place) or roll the rear tire up on a 2x and then place another 2x under centerstand, put it up on centerstand, then remove board from under rear tire. You will then be able to fully remove rear tire without removing rear license plate section of rear fender. Or you could just remove the license plate section of the rear fender to get tire out. Another tip, do not remove the rear shock at either end. After the final drive is disconnected from the swingarm, just slide it back and pivot it 90 degrees and let the shock support it while you remove the driveshaft. Don’t remove the speed sensor, just disconnect it at the connector by the coolant overflow bottle. What ever the method, relube the splines AT LEAST at EVERY rear tire change!!! New driveshafts are currently $750 from BMW and will only go up before they will be No Longer Available (NLA). Re lubing and inspecting the splines is cheap!

Excellent video. Job well done on your pannier repair job.

Very useful for the video you made. One question... does the manual recommend the use of RTV sealant on the joint seats ? Or was this procedure your choice?

Nice

Hi. I like the way how this is done. Great video. What is the milage on the bike?

You don't have to remove the spark plugs or take the signal generator cover off. With the bike on it's center stand and in sixth gear you can just rotate the rear tire until you have the cams where you need them.

Very helpful thanks, how are the wheels for moving around did you try them on the tarmac outside your garage? cheers.

I have these on my Bandit 600, cheaper than buying a "new" used tank if you drop the bike. I got to find out how well they work when I decided to move the bike around in my hot garage wearing flip flops. The only thing to touch the ground when the bike is laying over now is the handle bar end, front tire and engine guard. TMK.

I hate vacuum petcocks, they always end up failing eventually. In the future you can replace the OEM petcock with a Yamaha 5KM-24500-10-00 or Chinese clone, direct fit bolt on and it has an extension (if you buy the Chinese clone, Yamaha makes you buy another part).

nice :)

this is for helicopters VPP is variable pitch propeller i think and so while 3 controls throttle 7 controls the cyclic going up and down .you can disable it for planes if you dont need it by going into the function menu going to channel 7 VPP and deselect J3 (mode 2) and selecting nothing .If you are using channel 7 just reasign what you are using it for IE flaps ,gear etc

Nice job!!

very cool 😊

Another very annoying video without an Audio. Not even text. Perhaps they don't speak english but the lack of text and or voice destroys this video

Nice! They have the 1000 lbs one on sale right now for $500. I would get it and do the same mods you did, but I want it somewhat moveable but it's over 300 lbs. Have you considered putting casters on it? I just need a way to move it against the wall by myself when I'm not using it.

I am really struggling getting the clutch back up on mine. The master cylinder has pressure and new seals. The slave doesn't seem to have any effect on the clutch at all, the piston doesn't come back in, but keeps accepting pressure until the piston seal just gives. Can't see whether it's exerting any pressure on the push rod. Doesn't seem to be. &#$@ these crappy little hydraulic clutches, they suck

And your communication is ultra......without the rush shit that many manifest in this fucky age of computators and horse shit!!

Your help is much appreciated.You are a fine example of a very special sort!

Video does not help in 2022

Between the lack of explanation of what you are doing and the really irritating music I found this video basically unwatchable.

I think I'm going to call a locksmith...

Such a great and informative video 2 things where can I get a manual like that for my 2007 1200s bandit and where did you buy the mityvac from please

Awesome. Well done.

what manual are you using as it looks very good ,

Please note that the spindle is inserted from the RH side of the bike and make sure if you do swap it round you get the chain adjuster block on the correct sides. A lot easier to do chain adjustment this way. Also make sure that sprocket carrier spacer is not damaged it has been know for it to burr up and you cannot tighten the wheel enough (Mk1 only). Those cush drive rubbers did not look right, i did my chain and sprockets on the Mk 2 Bandit at 27000 miles and again at 60000 and they looked good and where a resistance fit. Did the hub bearings and wheel bearings at 60000 also while the wheel was out. I find it a good time to do the suspension linklage bearings too when the wheel come out. Regards Rob UK

That bolt map is awesome. The thing only people who have done it long enough think about. Pure simple genius idea.

Great video John, thanks

This is AWESOME!

What music is this John? I'm saving your video as my ignition is a bastard to turn the key more often than not. So will be replacing it soon. Drilling metal while wearing sandals 😂

Very useful video, watching this got me the Karma to find my key though... Thank god

Ive just got my hands on a 98 bandit 1200 and i have this exact problem lol, shall be stripping it today as its very sloppy and was mentioned on last mot cert

will this fit in to bandit 600 mk1?

Nicely done John. This is one of the most useful tool modifications that I have ever done and I only wish I had done it sooner. I'm glad that you were able to get yours completed and now, you can stop busting your knuckles on you drill press auxiliary fence. Thanks for the shout out and for posting the links.

Hi, great video, I had the same problem even after replacement of the rubber seal, the problem was that i installed the rubber with the slot outside, the same as in your picture, the slot has to be in the inner spring side. best regard from Hamburg

WOW! That was amazing! Hard to believe that was all made from lego!

Did you have any issues with a non standard ignition? A lot of them do not have a resister and cause no spark.

Very comprehensive! Nicely done. Bandit 1200 owners can consider themselves well demonstrated! Glad the kit finally came back into stock for you John. Happy tankbagging!

You had the top yoke out and didn’t paint it??, what a sloppy moron (in a friendly way) 🤣

Thanks for the video. I found out there is two diameters of the seal. 37mm and 40mm. They look quite similar. I bought 40mm for GSF1200 Bandit 01-05 and it doesn't fit to MK1 1200 from 1996. I couldn't figure how you managed to fit it so easily and I couldn't. I guess a thing to be aware of when looking for seal replacement.

My brother and I replaced the ignition switch on my B12n. Took less than a hour. We done it through the headlight. The screws holding the switch in were bloody tight. I used a five inch ratchet that has a quarter drive one end and a hex for screw driver bits the other end.

amazing video, im rebuilding an 98 1200 and I wasn't sure how to deal with the clutch release, I thought I had parts missing now I know everything is there.

Useful video. Thank you. I have just bought a replacement set for my Bandit 600S, but, on reflection, I think I will just persevere rather than face the hassle. It may have been smarter to have watched your video first.

I,ve got to do my B6. Oh fun and games. Job never goes smooth does it

What a wonderful video, almost like an online service manual, lots of clear images and great narrative... you could follow this easily and get the job done.. congratulations on your channel and getting underway... we wish you many happy videos to come!